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Pete,
I supplied a link to the pictures of my engine box earlier in the thread, but if you missed it here it is again.http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewEngineBox.htm
On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 9:37 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Any pictures to share on these break-down doghouses?
Thanks,
Pete
reluctant wrote:
Seperate the three vertical pieces of the doghouse (they were originally screwed together) and use draw latches to hold the sides to the front piece.
Then you can access the engine without removing the top and all if it's accumulated treasures by removing the ladder, unhooking the latches and pulling the front vertical piece out. Great for checking the trans and engine oil before starting the engine.http://www.mcmaster.com/#draw-latches/=4dejzf
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John Stevenson
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Bob,
I just checked your SPOT positions an realized you are in SC. Hunkered down to let the remains of IDA pass?On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 8:00 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bob,
I know several past or present owners have replaced their tanks without removing the engines. I believe in all cases they moved the engine forward into the aft cabin, then moved it back after the tank was replaced. There should be one or more write ups of this on the P424 website.John
BTW, are you still in Surf City? I've never anchored there. I always seem to arrive at this point in the ICW about dark and anchored at Sloop Pt, just off the ICW. Very shallow there, I'm sure my keel was touching the mud at low tide. Did you go into Surf City at Sloop Pt or are you at the marina next to the bridge?
On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 7:45 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Chuck,
What material is the tank made of? Mine's steel and has some rust issues but doesn't leak yet. I'm going to Corroseal it to stop the rust, but of course there are places I can't get at.
Is the new tank replaceable without removing the engine? Or is that an impossibility?
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Bob,
I know several past or present owners have replaced their tanks without removing the engines. I believe in all cases they moved the engine forward into the aft cabin, then moved it back after the tank was replaced. There should be one or more write ups of this on the P424 website.John
BTW, are you still in Surf City? I've never anchored there. I always seem to arrive at this point in the ICW about dark and anchored at Sloop Pt, just off the ICW. Very shallow there, I'm sure my keel was touching the mud at low tide. Did you go into Surf City at Sloop Pt or are you at the marina next to the bridge?
On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 7:45 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Chuck,
What material is the tank made of? Mine's steel and has some rust issues but doesn't leak yet. I'm going to Corroseal it to stop the rust, but of course there are places I can't get at.
Is the new tank replaceable without removing the engine? Or is that an impossibility?
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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John Stevenson
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Pete,
Yes, that is correct. I don't know why Quantum didn't install it from the top as my mast was un-stepped at the time (http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgrade2003Rigging.htm#Install%20Strong%20Track). As you can see the original track was cut-off a few feet below the masthead by a PO, and done pretty crudely at that. So the top of the Strong Track is secured directly to the mast by machine screws.
The gate at the bottom of the Strong Track can be removed, so I can see no reason the track cannot be fed from the top.On Sun, Nov 8, 2009 at 11:27 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Thanks John.
From this I understand that the part of the strong track that is below the original gate is not in the track like the rest of the strong track. Is that correct?Since I have the mast down right now for repainting, etc, I wonder if I could get them to make the strong track to run in the original track from top to bottom and if I could insert the strong track from the head of the mast. What do you think? (I'll go study it on the mast today).
Pete
John Stevenson wrote:
Pete,
Yes, I had the Strong Track installed in 2003 and It really makes the raising and lowering the mainsail much easier. I have a pretty heavy mainsail, but I can normally haul it to within a few feet of the masthead without the winch. I did have a problem last winter, when it appears the bottom of the track was not fully secured around the old track gate and pulled loose. Not a problem with the Strong Track, just the installation, and the installation held for two ocean crossings.http://www.svsarah.com/Sailing/ewBahamasStrongTrack.htm
This is a link to a description of the problem.John
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John Stevenson
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Pete,
Yes, I had the Strong Track installed in 2003 and It really makes the raising and lowering the mainsail much easier. I have a pretty heavy mainsail, but I can normally haul it to within a few feet of the masthead without the winch. I did have a problem last winter, when it appears the bottom of the track was not fully secured around the old track gate and pulled loose. Not a problem with the Strong Track, just the installation, and the installation held for two ocean crossings.http://www.svsarah.com/Sailing/ewBahamasStrongTrack.htm
This is a link to a description of the problem.John
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Tor,
I mounted mine on the cabin top under the main boom. I put it there because it is not in the way of anything else, it's a place I don't normally need to walk, and seemed to be a good location from which to step up into the raft. Lots of people say the raft should be in the cockpit so it can be launched from a secure location, I just couldn't figure out to put it there and still be able to sail the boat or enjoy the cockpit at anchor.http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/New%20Hatches%202.JPG
The link is to a picture of the canister bracket without the canister. The canister is thru-bolted to the cabin roof.
On Tue, Nov 3, 2009 at 5:26 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Those of you with canister life rafts, where have you mounted it and why?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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John Stevenson
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Tor & Elaine,
My mattress was made by HMC (Handmade Mattress Company), which is one of those companies at the boat shows that give everyone sticker shock. When I purchased mine in 2002 it was pretty pricey then too, but still less than a boat unit ($900). It appears the prices have gone up dramatically in the last seven years.
I purchased mine through the local HMC dealer in Annapolis at the boat show in 2002. He came to the boat in Solomons and measured the berth. Yes, the outer edge of the mattress is beveled to match the hull. It even has a notch for the chainplate cover at the head of the bunk.
This is the most comfortable mattress I've ever slept on, ashore or on the boat, It is 7″ Latex foam.On Mon, Nov 2, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Elaine Patton < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Ted and I would be interested in ordering with you. We have checked the Miami Boat Show every year and the mattresses are pricey.
Elaine Patton
Ted Riley
Bel Esprit II— On Mon, 11/2/09, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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Tor,
Here's a link to a picture of the the hinge I have in my mattress.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Mattress 1.JPGIf I slide it forward I have good access to the locker under the foot of the bunk. I still have to lift it to gain access to the middle locker. I can fold the mattress like this when it is made up without disturbing the bedding, just have to move the pillows. Making up the bed is much easier as I can slide the mattress forward to fit the sheets and blankets under the foot of the mattress, then slide it back in place.
A lengthwise hinge would make it easier to move the mattress into and out of the cabin. With this single cross-wise hinge I have to use a strap to fold the mattress into a small enough bundle to get through the companionway, but then I've only had to move the mattress out of the aft cabin once – when re-powering.On Mon, Nov 2, 2009 at 10:15 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John,
By golly, why didn't I think of that? An athwartships hinge just forward of the water heater locker would make a lot of sense. My present foam rubber mattress folds easily enough for access if I tie a line around it, but this spring mattress (ordered extra firm) probably won't. Thanks!
I've just asked the manufacturer about fitting the mattress through the companionway and they recommended a hinge. So now I have to take some measurements to determine whether athwartships or lengthwise will work best.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Tor,
The other reason for a hinge is easy access to the lockers under the head and foot of the bunk. If they don't charge an exorbitant fee, I highly recommend a hinge.On Mon, Nov 2, 2009 at 9:01 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Linus,
Good point! They probably can hinge or cut it, but I suspect it'll bend enough to get through the companionway. The one I tested in that Beneteau seemed flexible enough. Anyway, I'll ask them just to be sure.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Don,
Yes the glue is still holding up – only been a little over a year though. If it ever does start to loosen I can always go to mechanical fasteners.On Sun, Nov 1, 2009 at 11:40 AM, Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Thanks for the info! I like the look of you engine compartment (nice job). I was looking at re-doing my sound proofing and like the look of your tiles. Is the tiles glue still holding up will?
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
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John Stevenson
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Here is what did to re-build my box. I used thumb screws and threaded inserts to hold the sides together.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewEngineBox.htm
On Sun, Nov 1, 2009 at 8:11 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Dan,
Someone, I forget who, made the box collapsible – or so that it could be taken apart easily. I think they used those pull-apart hinges.
I agree with you – and especially when I put new sound insulation on the thing, it will weigh a ton.
Bob
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Bob Fine
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John Stevenson
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Linus,
Since you are replacing the whole unit anyway – my recommendation is to go with air-cooled, if you can feed enough air to the condenser. I've lived with a water-cooled SeaFrost for the past 6 years, and if the unit ever fails I will replace it with an air-cooled condenser. Last summer, here in the Trent River, I had to clear the raw water strainer almost weekly with all the grass and other crud coming down stream. It was worse than the Chesapeake Sea Nettles. Your story of getting an eel in the strainer basket made me more than a little anxious when opening the strainer.Although Cleave Horton at SeaFrost will still recommend a water-cooled compresser if you want a decent sized freezer, the new Danfoss compressors that he and the other manufacturers offer are very efficient even when air-cooled. Unless you have a compelling reason for the little extra efficiency of water cooled or you don't want to vent the compartment where the condenser will be located, I'd go air cooled.
On Thu, Oct 29, 2009 at 8:04 AM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I have to replace one copper line. I was told by the yard that all the fittings on the evaporator and the expansion valve would have to be replaced if I changes to R134. Also the unit is 27 years old and water cooled. A pretty good life span I would say. I plan to go back with a water cooled unit.
Linus<.. snip>
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Adam,
I'm sure a larger locker could made to use the space aft of the existing locker. I just need someplace to store a few extra tanks. I wish they made fiberglass tanks in this size.On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 12:15 AM, hs < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:GREAT IDEA! Do you have any photos you could post?
Hank S.
SHAY— On Mon, 10/26/09, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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Pete,
I have what sounds like the propane locker you have.
A vented locker for 2 6# cylinders in the aft port corner of the cockpit.
My plan for additional propane cylinders is to mount them in fender cages on the transom. Havent done it yet,but the cylinders fit the cages.John
On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 9:31 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Interesting idea. If I wanted to be office….the ABYC manual says that the cylinders have to be over some many inches from any opening into the boat. That would include all of the lazarettes and the companionway.Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Pete
As far as I know, this was standard. I've heard of at least one owner who
refitted with 20lb cylinders. This sounds like a lot of work.Have you considered putting a table in the cockpit? There would be room in
there to stow two 6lb bottles.Rich
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Quent,
Yes the staysails are small. What Chuck has on Sea Duty (and I think Tor and Bob have on their boats) is an inner forestay parallel to the forestay. They have running backstays to compensate for the tension from the inner forestay. Those of us who have implemented a Solent Stay do not have runners as the Solent Stay is attached to the mast near the masthead and shares the back stay tension with the fore stay. The advantage of the Solent Stay is the elimination of the runners. The disadvantage is generally you can't set a stay sail on a Solent Stay along with the Genoa. You can do it, but there is no way to equalize the tension of the two fore stays. Only one of them will take the full load. Runners and a lower attachment point for the inner forestay normally allows both sails to be set and trimmed.
IMO a stationary block is fine for this application unless you have the staysail on a furler. I've gone with a sail track as in Jack's and Chuck's pics primarily to spread the load and also to allow for my normal miss-placement of rigging.John
On Wed, Oct 21, 2009 at 6:21 PM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Just curious, by mounting the stay so far aft behind the anchor locker and the mast a couple feet forward of the cutter version, isn't the staysail pretty small? I assume that the inner forestay is parallel to the headstay, perhaps it is not?
Is the adjustment provided by the tracks really useful in trimming the staysail, or would stationary blocks work OK?
Quent—
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John Stevenson
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