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Adam,
I inherited an A/C similar to the one you've just installed in the handing locker. The PO ran a 3″ vent to the forward cabin, down the lockers behind the starboard settee backs. It exits through a smal vent on the port side of the forward berth. He also ran a vent to the aft cabin (through the locker behind the head sink and outboard of the shower liner to another vent on the navigation desk.The A/C works well for the forward cabin and pulls the temp down to the low to mid 70s on the hottest days. The aft cabin vent doesn't do much. The problem is most likely in the duct work to which the A/C output is connected. When and if I replace the existing A/C I'll try to learn a little bit about ducting and maybe improve the aft cabin situation.
Two problems with this arrangement.
1. The vent hose takes up a lot of space in the lockers behind the settee backs.
2. Condensation can produce a fair amount of moisture in those lockers.Neither problem is very serious. I certainly am glad to have the A/C for the last 6 weeks in New Bern. It has been cool for 3 or 4 days now, but we had a month and a half where the high temp just about never got below the mid 90s.
John
On Sat, Aug 29, 2009 at 11:31 PM, Adam < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I just installed a new 16,000 btu a/c unit in the starboard hanging locker in front of the head. The boat only had one outlet installed just above. I was wanting to add more vents, especially to the V berth and wanted to know who has done this, where they put the vents, and any problems to consider. It sure is great to have A/C in the south!
Thanks, Adam
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John Stevenson
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If (when) I finally have to pry my NL genset out of the lazerette That's what I would want to replace it with. Suddenly I would no longer have to hang my fenders on the stern rail.
Actually that might become crew quartersOn Sun, Aug 30, 2009 at 9:24 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Wow, Alan, that's tiny! I thought you'd be filling the entire lazarette with generator and parts! Just out of curiosity, how much did the generator cost?
Regards,
Bob
On Sun, Aug 30, 2009 at 6:37 AM, Alan < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Two weeks before I leave and I finally got the Generator in the boat……. Here's a picture of it sitting in the aft lazerette.
I have more pictures of the engine bed and mounts if anyone is interested.
alan
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Bob Fine
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John Stevenson
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Tor,
Copy you 5×5On Thu, Aug 27, 2009 at 8:01 AM, Silver Heels wrote:
This is a test. This is only a test (because my last few emails to the group never showed up). If this were an
actual emergency this station would broadcast a long, loud, annoying tone for 30 seconds.Tor
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John Stevenson
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My ID is a full head of grey hair and a foot long pony tail. I'll also probably have on an SSCA T-shirt and B-Ball cap.
If we all provide cell phone numbers (mine is somewhere in this thread) the land rendezvous might really happen.
On Wed, Aug 26, 2009 at 9:53 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Sounds good to me. You set it up and we'll be there,Lee
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Lee,
I don't remember, probably Silicone.On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 3:26 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John,What material did you use to re-bed the wood bases?
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Lee,
Since you've got the sea hood off, definitely re-bed all of the wood bases. The other thing to do is add weather striping to side bases to keep water from flowing under the hatch and over or along the base until it finds a path into the cabin. I've attached a picture taken today of the weather striping I installed in 2002. The hatch has never leaked since.
I obviously have not checked this striping for some time. Thanks to taking a picture I see one of the screws has backed out and disappeared. Still the hatch doesn't leak.On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 1:19 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Folks,
My forward companionway has started leaking. Have any of you been able to fix a leak in this area?
I am thinking of removing the wooden bases and applying a single bead of Ace Hardware's rope caulk, this is the stuff Tor recommends so highly. Have any of you tried this approach? Do any of you have alternate solutions that worked for you? I already have the doghouse off, so the task isn't going to be terrible.
Any advise is eagerly anticipated.Lee
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John Stevenson
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Lee,
You might give PYacht a call. They stock some old Lewmar parts. I think the guy you spoke to is right, you'll probably have to get one fabricated.On Mon, Aug 24, 2009 at 3:05 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I have older Lewmar #48ST winches that are in excellent condition…. except for a “flanged spacer ring” (pn 15044627) which is made of plastic and shouldn't cost much more than a few bucks. The problem is that Lewmar doesn't have any in stock and they quit making them several years ago.
One guy I spoke with suggested that I have them made.Does anyone have a brilliant idea that will get me out of this mess?
Lee
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John Stevenson
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Lee,
You can order tickets here: http://www.usboat.com/
or buy them at the gate. I don't think there is a discount for buying them online, but it does save a little time getting into the shore. Once less line to stand in.On Sun, Aug 23, 2009 at 2:31 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Are tickets available at the door or do I need to order them on line? If so, how do I go about buying the tickets?Lee
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Lee,
The weekends, as I'm sure you can guess, are the most crowded. Monday, is usually the lightest attended, but some of the exhibitors will shut down after lunch. Also some of the experts you may want to talk to leave Sunday night. My friends and I normally go on Thursday, but if you buy your ticket at the gate that is the most expensive day. It used to be called Trade Day as only exhibitors and their guests were allowed in. Brokers used that day to show boats to their most serious customers without a lot of tire kickers climbing over everything. Eventually it was called VIP day and anyone could go, but the tickets for that day sold for about 1.5 times the price for the other days. The exception was any business could purchase tickets at a significant discount ($3 vrs. $20 back then). So we purchased out tickets through the marina (owned by friends) and always went on Thursday. We still do that, but the discount is not that great anymore – they caught onto us.I guess that's a long winded way of saying I recommend you go on Thursday or Friday (if you don't want to pay the premium on Thursday). Monday is a good day to go if you are bargain shopping. A few vendors will give great deals on stuff (shoes, foul weather gear, etc.) to avoid having to pack the stuff up and transport it back to their store. Of course they may be sold out of the stuff you really came to buy. One year I purchased a dinghy from Defender at the show. I bought their exhibit model and agreed to let them show it until Monday afternoon, when I came back to pick it up. Defender knocked an additional 15% off the boat show price for that deal.
Spending two days is a good idea, especially if you are seriously shopping. It gives you a chance to evaluate the alternatives before placing an order.
On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 1:53 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Those of you who are Annapolis show experts or semi experts, I could some help. The admiral and I are planning to attend our first Annapolis show. We can spend only one, maybe two days. Given that we are novices at this sort of thing, will any of you give me some hints about what we should and shouldn't do. Also, what two days do you think would you recommend we attend? Any other hints, ideas, or thoughts?Lee
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Columbus Day weekend, Oct 8-12
On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 1:11 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Er, ah, when is the Annapolis show?On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 10:46 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I'm going to be working the Annapolis Sailboat Show, aboard the Valiant 42 out on the floating docks. Ya'll stop by and say hello!
Tor
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And I will be there as well, on Thursday. I'll probably be working the SSCA booth that afternoon. Sounds like a mini rendezvous.
On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 10:46 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I'm going to be working the Annapolis Sailboat Show, aboard the Valiant 42 out on the floating docks. Ya'll stop by and say hello!
Tor
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Joe,
Thanks for the explanation, makes sense.
It really comes down to aesthetic preferences. I think Teak, even when beautifully varnished, is one butt-ugly wood compared to a lot of other hardwoods. If I had my preference there would be no wood anywhere on Sarah's deck, just in the cabin and it wouldn't be teak in the cabin. Unfortunately the vintage boats I could afford all come from the “gotta have teak everywhere” era. So I'm stuck with it until it has to be replaced.
If I have to replace my cap rail I know two materials I will not use – Teak and Stainless (now – never would have thought of it before), well I probably would use Teak if I was getting ready to sell the boat.
Different strokes.On Thu, Aug 20, 2009 at 6:07 PM, Joseph Steiner < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John,
Decking and other applications that are straight and therefore extrudable would not be available in an injection molded form. The molds would be far too expensive compared to an extrusion die.
I suppose you could buy HDPE and try to cut it to conform to the curve of the hull. Or cut it and install in sections, much like teak wood. You could even sand it and get a rounded edge. The beauty of teak especially when treated with a fine varnish, or teak oil, is hard to beat. HDPE is very difficult to paint, requiring a heat treatment or muriatic acid wash to remove the lubricants that are present to facilitate extrusion or injection molding.
I have seen some heavily filled examples for decking and even flooring in a marine application. It works, but if subjected to a blow, it will crack…so will teak.
But I can repair teak easily and then varnish it easily and it's as good as new. HDPE can be replaced too, a section at a time, and hopefully come close to color matching. Painting the whole thing is tricky, leaving streaks.
So….I suppose my main arguement boils down to the fact that I like the look of teak, can work with it easily, and I have had some bad experience with HDPE for outdoor applications in the Tropics where I sail.
Joe,— On Thu, 8/20/09, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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Joe,
That is an interesting paper, but I'm not sure what it really says in regard to the suitability of an HDPE product for a cap rail or decking. They found significant degradation after 3000h of weathering. That's less than 5 months. I'm sure none of us would be able to detect that degradation. Since virtually no material that we might use for a cap rail is impervious to UV and weathering, the important measurement is how the various materials compare. I guess the most impervious material would be that SS cap rail that Patrick showed us (that fellow must be a part owner of a nickel mine). We all know that teak ages less than most hardwoods, but still significantly. My teak cap rail has a number of cracks and a few pieces have broken off, and this boat has never been in the tropics. I know of several marinas and private homes in Florida that have HDPE decks that are 10 – 15 years old that look good to me.
So teak may be more durable than HDPE, but is the difference significant?
The one thing the paper tells me, if I were to use HDPE in an application that needed to stand up to weathering I better go with the injection molded process rather than extruded or planed.On Thu, Aug 20, 2009 at 4:06 PM, Joseph Steiner < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Let's review the scientific data. There is a lot of marketing dollars spent to promote products that don't last long, but look nice, and is relatively inexpensive. If durability is not an issue..then go for it.
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2004/fpl_2004_stark001.pdf— On Thu, 8/20/09, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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Patrick is right it is not a drop in. For that I think you have buy another Tempo faucet mixer, which it appears is what pearson did.
Anytime I can complete a plumbing project and keep the trips to Loews, Home Depot, or Ace in single digits I consider it essentially a drop in.
On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 7:25 PM, Patrick Walters wrote:
Quote:Here's a pic of my setup.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/3605668017/
I didn't find a straight home depot drop in. I used a ShurFlo mixer. I don't have the part number handy, but I could find it if you want it. It's nice and small. I bought a wall elbow from my local plumbing store along with a handheld shower. In order to mount the elbow to the thin fiberglass bulkhead I took a piece of 1/4″ plywood and epoxied it on all sides to seal it well and used it as a backing plate. You will also need fittings (or clamps) to attach the hoses to the new mixer and a length of hose and fittings (or clamps) to attach the mixer to the faucet.
Getting all the right pieces is the hard part, the putting together is pretty easy.
-p
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Adam,
Go to Loews or Home Depot and get a real shower mixer. Lots of use have replaced the Kluge Pearson installed. I thought it was PO design, but several others has said that had the same arrangement – basically a faucet mixer.
What I did is at http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeHead.htmOn Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 5:54 PM, adam silverstein wrote:
Gave up the ghost first night if summer cruise. Anyone know what's the drop-in replacement so I can get my wife happy again? 1978 vintage, small verical bar with two knobs. Mounted on… A piece of wood.
Adam Silverstein, iPhone
(“it was horrible,” recounts former child)
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John Stevenson
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