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Rich,
That looks like a good system. A lot better than the deck jerry cans I used last winter in the Bahamas. It looks like two of those would fit in my RIB, which means I could fill one tank with a single trip to the dock. Last winter I used 3 6gal jerry cans, so it took 3 trips to fill one tank – not to mention having to haul the cans on deck and pour the contents into the tank fill. Even if I could only get one bladder on the dink it would mean just two trips to the dock. I'd also like to get those jerry cans off the rail.On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 12:09 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Here's what I use.http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=9576
Rich
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Dan,
My arrangement is very similar to what Rich, Bob, Tor and the others have described. I still have the shower sump on the boat, because I can't get it out. It is located on top of the keel just aft of the mast step. It appears to be glassed in place. One of the tail pieces on the sump broke off in 2000, so I just connected the hose from the shower drain directly to a macerator pump. I had a couple of failures of that pump (Whale) so I went to a Jabsco pump with a filter guard. I have to clean the filter about once of month, which is not bad considering I live aboard – of course others would say it is because I don't shower often enough.
So you make actually have a sump if you haven't looked on top of the keel. As one of the others pointed out a sump is just a place to collect soap scum and hair, a better place is a strainer on the pump.John
On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 11:17 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Dan
Odd that you lack a sump. My boat came with a sump tank and diaphram pump. The pan is in the bilge forward of the v-drive. The pump was mounted on the top. Having shower water drain into the bilge is not recommended. I never liked the pan because it will fill with hair and other debris over time. I bypassed it and relocated the pump to space under the galley sink. A large strainer will protect the pump. I run the pump while showering. I added a Y valve so that I can use it as a bilge pump if I chose.regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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Chad,
“Have you run your main back to the cockpit? “No, I haven't for several reasons.
1. I do a lot of single-handing and unless I run the reef lines back to the cockpit I'd end up going back and forth between the cockpit and the mast to put in or take out a reef.
2. Running the halyards back to the cockpit introduces unnecessary (IMO) friction and you lose a lot natural mechanical advantage (pulling back rather than down). From the mast I can pull the main sail 75-80% of the way up by hand. From the cockpit I doubt I could get it more than 40% up. That means a lot of cranking on a winch, which is the slow way to raise a sail.
3. Halyards led to cockpit are the norm on racing boats, but they sail with a large crew. One of the strongest and tallest crew members is normally at the mast and he pumps the halyard to pull the sail 80% or more of the way up while the crew member in the cockpit just tails. Then cockpit winch is used to provide the final trim on the halyard. That approach might work for a cruising couple, but I don't see a major advantage. The advantage for the racer is that they play with the halyard to trim the sail in light air conditions. They can do that without sending anyone on deck and change the boat trim.I know a lot of people do run their halyards (and reef lines) to the cockpit and are very happy with that arrangement. I've raced on boats with cockpit led halyards, but I've never considered them for my cruising boat.
I wanted to go with the mast pulpits that many others recently put on their 424s, but those pulpits would have interfered with my on deck dinghy storage.110' should be more than enough for each halyard. Gives you a margin for error for those eye-splices. At least I always need two or three tries to get a nice tight eye splice in Sta-Set X.
On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 12:18 AM, chad wrote:
John, Thanks, It will be rope then. 110' 7/16 should be sufficient, Im guessing.
Have you run your main back to the cockpit?
Looked at your site. Good stuff. Im on the York River if you ever get my way. #97
Serendipity
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Dan,
On my boat the overhead lights are all on the Port Cabin Lights breaker. The wires run from the light over to the port side edge of the overhead. I think it joins up with the wiring for the light over the stove and then runs aft, around the engine compartment and then to the distribution panel in the hanging locker next to the companionway. If the light over the stove works you may find a loose connection there.On Mon, Aug 10, 2009 at 3:02 PM, Jonathan Titus < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I had the same problem with my boat (hull 100). The ceiling fixture had no voltage. Turned out on tracing back that that light was wired to the breaker for running lights. Effect was you would only be able to turn on that light at night. I was so glad to figure it out before I tore apart the ceiling. I assumed it was some FO's idea but maybe the factory did it.Jon
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Chad,
I replaced all halyards with all rope, Sta-Set X, a number of years ago. I'd recommend 7/16″.On Mon, Aug 10, 2009 at 1:16 PM, chad wrote:
I am having trouble posting as well.
Looking for information regarding main wire to rope haylard, and anyone with info on replacing it. With same or all rope?
Recently moved my runing backstays out board to accomodate a bimini top. Raise my mizzen about 4 inches as well. Love the head room. Makes the mizzen a little difficult to get at
to flake and cover. but the shade is cool. 95″ X 60″ X 43.5″Serendipity
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Tor,
I also haven't captured any good metrics on the engine. I suspect that the metrics in the first 500 hours may not be the same as for the remaining life of the engine. My sense from head calculation when we took on fuel last fall going down the ICW (probably the best time to try to capture these metrics) is that I was burning around .7 gal/hour at 2000 RPM. That would be a little less than the W60. Of course I didn't write down the fuel taken on and actually divide it by the hours run since the last top off.
As you point out, we seldom fill to the same level each time, so it is really necessary to collect data from a dozen or more fill-ups to average out those discrepancies. I also have a generator which draws fuel from the same tank, so if I spend time at anchor between fuel ups the metrics are not much use for calculating consumption by the engine. That's why for me the ICW is probably the best place to get those numbers. I rarely use the generator when anchored on the ICW (drop the hook at sunset, pull it up at sunrise) and there is very little, if any sailing, so all of the operating hours are on the engine. RPMs can vary though if I'm trying to make the next bridge opening.On Sun, Aug 9, 2009 at 7:59 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Pat,I replaced the original, broken tank-top gauge, the one seen through the cockpit sole portlight, when I first bought my boat. The new gauge has proven to be pretty accurate, enough for me to know when the tank is full or half full or less than 1/4 full and so on. Don't know yet what the fuel consumption rate is with the also-relatively-new Yanmar engine because I have only “topped off” the tank twice, neither time to exactly the same level. However, it appears it's close to averaging 0.5/gal/hr, albeit including a little near-idle running time and a generally light hand on the throttle underway.
I wonder what consumption rate others are getting with a Yanmar 4JH4E.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
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Don,
I hope you have good luck with Felicia. Appears to be heading your way in about 5 days.On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 5:02 PM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Lady Leanne was on the cover of Cruising World's January 1989 issue. She was also on the cover of CW's 1990 calendar. She was used as a day charter on Kauai'i for several years. Her biggest claims to fame were surviving Iniki and having Al and Tipper Gore sailing on board when he was VP (the skipper told me that it was hilarious that the secret service followed in a launch (seasick) and there were noisy choppers overhead killing the serenity.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne (#135)
Honolulu—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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All this discussion of strainers reminded me I had not cleared my strainer basket since the Bahamas (it was always clean in the Bahamas). I was reminded of that task, but I still did nothing. During last night the A/C and the frig shut down because of low water flow, so this morning I opened the strainer – not without some trepidation I might add, give Linus' experience. His boat is about 20 miles from my berth. I partially opened the cover on the strainer and listened for anything splashing around in there. When I removed the cover I could see that no eels could get into that mess.
I guess this task will go back on the monthly to do list.On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 11:31 AM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hey that would cut down on eels that jump out of the strainer when you open it up. I might have to get one.
Linus<.. snip>
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Alan,
I don't know the size of your Kubota. I expect it is smaller than my Northern Lights and Bill's Westerbecke. For my installation, getting access to the rudder post stuffing box is a problem.See this page and go down to the “Rudder Stuffing Box”
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpradeMechanical.htmAs you can see, even with the help of a wee Welshman tightening the seal was very difficult. The next winter I had the yard in Lagos re-pack the stuffing box with similar issues.
I recommend making a mockup of the generator in cardboard and then play with the placement to test your access to the rudder post.As far as the installation goes, I haven't much to offer as I didn't do it. As far as I can tell the installer just built a shelf strong enough to hold the genset.
On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 8:22 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I currently have a 4.4 Westerbeke Genset mounted in this space. It is slightly offset to port, with a propane locker to strb. In front of the lazarette and beneath the front of the hatch, there is a vertical panel which can unscrew, thereby abetting the access. I have had no difficulties whatsoever accessing the quardrant for tightening the steering cables and repairing a rudder stop.
Incidently, the 4.4 runs and generates, but can be a pain to start. I am now using a HONDA 2000E instead and wish to get rid of the genset. It is FREE to anyone who wishes to remove it and all assoiciated hardware, although this will involve removing and reinstalling the solar panels and bimini top.
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMA—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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BTW, it's also raining down here in NC. We had a tornado warning up for an hour or so yesterday afternoon.
On Mon, Aug 3, 2009 at 6:25 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bob,
Sorry about the new, totally unwanted, portlight project.
I haven't had to take my port lights apart (yet) so I don't really know what you are dealing with. First I assume this is one of the fixed ports with tempered glass. Isn't the compression seal on the glass provided by the barrel bolts (I assume that's what they are) in frame? If so you should have the necessary compression for a good seal with silicone and not need an adhesive sealant. Other than that I think you're right, glazing putty should work. I think the glass and plastics guys like silicone because it is not a strong adhesive (less work to fix their screw-ups), but also because it has a coefficient of expansion that is more compatible with glass and plastic than the other choices. Anyway that's what a plastics guy explained to me when he recommended I use GE SilPruf to bed the portlights on my previous boat. I don't know if he really knew his stuff or not, but those portlights (acrylic screwed into the cabin trunk – hence good compression) never leaked for over 15 years. I haven't received any complaints from the current owner so I guess they've lasted another 10 years.On Mon, Aug 3, 2009 at 5:59 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Ok, so for you not in the northeast this summer, we've had about 7 weeks of rain now. Not just gentle rains, but roaring, drenching, mind boggling rains.
One of my portlights started to leak. I thought it was the gasket, but no amount of tightening would stop it. Guess what? It was leaking around the glass.
In taking the portlight apart, I broke the glass (not surprising) and am having bronzed safety glass replacements made (for all 6, how cool is that?)
Anyway, there are about 100 different suggestions for rebedding the glass. I'm actually thinking of using regular glazing putty (I think that's what they were originally bedded with). The glass guy says use silicone (horror of horrors). Silicone is a compressive gasket, not a bonding one. So I'm not sure about that.
Then there's polysulfide. And the polyurethane/silicone, and polysulfide/silicone and God knows what else.
What have any of you used and are you happy with it? The regular glazing putty should last for many years and is easy to replace (as opposed with all the other stuff).
Anyway, if 10 of you answer, I expect either a clear winner or 11 opinions….
Thanks in advance,
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
Sorry about the new, totally unwanted, portlight project.
I haven't had to take my port lights apart (yet) so I don't really know what you are dealing with. First I assume this is one of the fixed ports with tempered glass. Isn't the compression seal on the glass provided by the barrel bolts (I assume that's what they are) in frame? If so you should have the necessary compression for a good seal with silicone and not need an adhesive sealant. Other than that I think you're right, glazing putty should work. I think the glass and plastics guys like silicone because it is not a strong adhesive (less work to fix their screw-ups), but also because it has a coefficient of expansion that is more compatible with glass and plastic than the other choices. Anyway that's what a plastics guy explained to me when he recommended I use GE SilPruf to bed the portlights on my previous boat. I don't know if he really knew his stuff or not, but those portlights (acrylic screwed into the cabin trunk – hence good compression) never leaked for over 15 years. I haven't received any complaints from the current owner so I guess they've lasted another 10 years.On Mon, Aug 3, 2009 at 5:59 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Ok, so for you not in the northeast this summer, we've had about 7 weeks of rain now. Not just gentle rains, but roaring, drenching, mind boggling rains.
One of my portlights started to leak. I thought it was the gasket, but no amount of tightening would stop it. Guess what? It was leaking around the glass.
In taking the portlight apart, I broke the glass (not surprising) and am having bronzed safety glass replacements made (for all 6, how cool is that?)
Anyway, there are about 100 different suggestions for rebedding the glass. I'm actually thinking of using regular glazing putty (I think that's what they were originally bedded with). The glass guy says use silicone (horror of horrors). Silicone is a compressive gasket, not a bonding one. So I'm not sure about that.
Then there's polysulfide. And the polyurethane/silicone, and polysulfide/silicone and God knows what else.
What have any of you used and are you happy with it? The regular glazing putty should last for many years and is easy to replace (as opposed with all the other stuff).
Anyway, if 10 of you answer, I expect either a clear winner or 11 opinions….
Thanks in advance,
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Tor,
This must be similar to what you are using. I was tempted to put one on during last year's haul out, but never got around to it. 2008 was the worst year I can remember for sea nettles on the Chesapeake. It may just have been a local phenomenon in our creek off the Patuxent, but I was clearing the raw water strainer nearly every day. My refrigeration pump (small March) produces plenty of suction to pull in the jellies. Made me really question why I went with a water cooled compressor.
Here in New Bern, NC no jellies that I can see.
One of my concerns about the external strainer was that I might be exchanging one clog for another. The jellies are sticky and if sucked against a strainer when the boat is not underway they will likely stick and buildup. Now I would have a clog, but on the outside of the boat. The only way to clear that clog (other than going for a swim with the jellies) would be to disconnect the intake hose from the internal strainer and blow the jellies off the exernal strainer with air or water pressure, something Rich described a few posts back in this thread.
That concern aside, I may get organized for my next haul out and put these over the two intakes. I've never had a clog on the engine/generator intake, but those systems don't get used much while dockside.
One thing I don't see spec'd on these strainers is their effective opening size. That is, what size strainer provides the equivalent or greater water flow of a 1″ thru-hull. I guess you just go with the biggest one you fit.On Mon, Aug 3, 2009 at 9:54 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Quent,
Yes, the strainer plate over the engine's raw water intake should be large, not one of those 3″ diameter round things, for exactly the reason you mention. That way there's a better chance that even when something is covering some of the plate – jellyfish, plastic or whatever – some cooling water may still get through. Wish I had a photo of the one I put on Silver Heels. It's around 8″ long x 4″ wide, if memory serves, and shaped like a wedge of cheese with the thick end being maybe 1½” wide. The low end of the wedge faces forward, both to reduce drag and to create a bit of a scoop effect. I suppose there's never a 100% guarantee of it remaining at least partially clear in all conditions, but it'll have a better chance than most other approaches.
BTW, I did put a smaller, round strainer plate over the intake thru-hull for my seawater intake manifold, since it doesn't create nearly the suction that the engine does. That water also passes through a separate raw water strainer inside, between the seacock and the manifold.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Don,
Not sure what you need, but here are a couple of sources.
http://www.sailrite.com/Categories/Shackles
http://www.sailmakerssupply.com/prod_detail_list/28On Sun, Aug 2, 2009 at 7:16 PM, Rags < ([email][/email])> wrote:
We are replacing our sail slides and shackles. No problem finding comparable slides but can't find any shackles that work (checked the usual sources: West, Defender, etc.). Any ideas?
Don Riggins
Sabatico
1980 Pearson 424—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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The owner's guide I inherited from the PO says the 3 tanks have, ” a total capacity of approximately 150 gallons”. The spec sheet in the same guide says a total of 170 gallons. I suspect we will find that few of our boats have the same capacity. If we want to know the true capacity we'll have to measure the tanks on our boats and not use a spec sheet or the measured results on any of the other boats.
Don's method will work if you are the only boat on the dock using the water. On many of the docks on which I've kept my boats if two other boats on the same dock are using their hoses your water pressure will drop significantly. My specific experience when I had both cabin tanks empty I timed filling the port tank at (if I remember correctly) a little over 18 minutes. So for the starboard tank I didn't bother removing removing the settee cushion, but just started timing it. Apparently someone on the dock turned off their hose about that time and the tank overflowed in less than 12 minutes. My water outlet was the furthest one out the dock.
So you have to be sure the water flow doesn't change.On Wed, Jul 29, 2009 at 10:43 AM, Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:
To find out the capacity of a water tank: 1. Start with a empty tank. 2. turn your dock water hose to a medium flow. 3. time how long it takes that flow to fill a one gallon jug. 4. Move hose to tank you want without changing flow and start timing . 5. Divide the fill time by jug time = gallons.
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Don,
The ATN ascenders were never the problem, probably are very similar to the Petzl. Entiene (AKA ATN) was a rock climber like a lot of the French solo sailors. The Topclimber instructions said to terminate the climbing rope near the bow, which is probably why I always sagged toward the mast. I never tried it secured to a mast cleat. I'll give that a try. Thanks.
The mast steps work fine, except when I need sit up there for awhile. Then I need someone on deck to control the bosum chair. If I can get the Topclimber to work for me I won't need that additional person.
The mast steps do grab the main halyard, but it is normally only a problem when raising sail down wind. I've considered using the monofiliament line to prevent the halyard from wrapping the steps. I hadn't considered the noise factor. Thanks for that info. Saves me one counter-productive boat project.On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 10:42 PM, Syringa wrote:
John
I have never used the Topclimber system so don't know how good their ascenders are. mine is about the same but uses Petzl ascenders they are made for rock climing, caving & mountain climbing/ they don't slip and go up the line with ease. I winch my halyard to the top (Hard) then sit in my chair to get any stretch out of the line. I have my wife tie off the bitter end of the line to a mast cleat to remove most of the slack.
I had mast steps on my Gulfstar 37 and like them pretty well but the halyard likes to get stuck between the steps at the worst time, so I put a 150# fishing line on the outside of the steps which keeps the halyard from between the steps, but the line would start howling when the wind got above 15 knots and would scream at 30 or more (I like my sleep and don't want to hear about a little wind at night.)
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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