Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Seriously? I picked up the same goddamned pot string there. Sorry to hear.
It could be bent prop blade (s) which you’ll know if you do some prop
maintenance.Fortunately for me the engine was off and the line merely twisted off.
My personal belief is that I don’t want anything with fiddly little bits in
a place I can’t get to them, such as folding props or center boards.I’ll take the hit in speed.
Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Jan 14, 2014 4:19 PM, “cstewart” wrote:Rich, your comment got me thinking. I remember now that I picked up a
crab pot, really nasty wrap, at 7 mile bridge some time last year. Once I
figured out what the problem was, I cut it out, but often wondered if that
may have bent the prop, or worse, the shaft.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
That would be terrific! If you can get the taper as well.
Thanks!
Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Jan 13, 2014 7:37 AM, “Discoverie” wrote:Mine is out for work. I could measure and send dims, if that would help.
Roger_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
That’s way too hard, Chuck. Grind the crack to clean and dry glass. Build
up with successively wider strips of biaxial glass with thickened resin
wetted out thoroughly. 9 layers should do it. Actually, 7 is good.Fair with thickened epoxy. Sand and paint.
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Jan 10, 2014 9:13 PM, “Chuck Ruble” wrote:It’s simpler than you realize. Cut the pie piece out, I didn’t go all the
way to the ballast. I just cut till I got to clean dry laminate. Realized
after the fact it might have been easier. The cut from the back of the
keel was around 30 inches long. About 4-6 inches up from the bottom.Mark the cut with laser if you can. The cleaner and straighter the cut
the easier the rebuild.Create a laminate stack of solid FRP. You can purchase a 4×4 sheet of
3/8th FRP and probably have more than enough. Tab in some cross supports
in the opening in the keel and some cleats on the sides/end to attach to.
Make you new pie section, only has to be reasonably close.
Secure it to the bottom (screw and glue). Shape with a grinder and some
30 grit THEN wrap with glass.
I ground the profile of the keel to build it back up with the glass wrap
so it didn’t bulge with the new wrap.I made a mock up of the filler piece out of wood before I started cutting
up an expensive piece of FRP.The wrap is best done with vacuum bagging. I’d leave that to a pro as it
is an art that comes with practice. Set up and applying roughly 4 wraps of
1708 should take about 4 hours total, two guys to do it right, 8 labor
hours. If you don’t bag it, it will sag.You can smooth and fill it, barrier coat and paint.
Working in the bottom of the well from the inside is next to impossible.
Working on the same area from outside the boat is amazingly easy.I thought about putting a garboard plug on the side near the bottom while
I was down there but decided I wasn’t that important. Probably would have
been worth the effort.Chuck
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Having just fixed that crack this September, I can offer this: it is
almost certainly larger than you see.I ended up with 9 layers of biaxial cloth working it’s way up the keel
about 18 inches.You are far better cutting and layering the whole distance from the ballast
to the end pf the keel than fixing the 12 inches.IMHO.
Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Jan 10, 2014 6:55 PM, “Page Two” wrote:Well Rich….that has me wondering, because ….I AM HULL #91. I’ll assume
the PO would of told me concrete if he had done that, like I said he
mentioned only epoxy…. but time will tell.Honestly, if it is concrete under that shiny coating I’ll be happy. That
means the whole thing has definitely “popped” away from the hull and the
removal will be nothing but full on grunt labor, I’m good at grunt free
labor and it never bothers me how much time to cost ratio bullshit it
means. If I ain’t spending money, it stays in my pocket.And I do have a small Bosch jack hammer. I am no stranger to that kind of
work. Stay tuned. I will do everything in my power to not cut open the
bottom of my boat for a 12″ crack!!!!!!
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Mine is a ketch, and I have one panel on the dodger and one on the davits
(I want to add another there). Newer panels are designed better to not be
so sensitive to shadows. When I’m in port, the booms are tied off to the
side to allow full exposure. When sailing, they’re almost never centerline
and either the panels are in the sun or they’re not. I hardly ever use the
mainsail, especially if the wind is over about 15kts, so the boom will be
tied over to the side.I’ve found this arrangement to be the simplest. I thought about the wing
panels but decided against them for several reasons, the first of which is
that they are too exposed to docks, boats, and other sharp things. Another
reason is that they work well without me having to deploy them, and I don’t
have to maintain the hinge arrangement.I found that in the south, even during the winter, one 135 watt panel was
almost enough. Two is almost enough where I am in CT. Three will allow me
to use the water heater down south. And that’s my goal.Bob
On Wed, Jan 8, 2014 at 1:21 PM, cstewart wrote:
Hey Bob, I can’t remember if your boat is a ketch or a sloop. When I met
you in Beaufort, you were on a Krogan, if you remember. I am wondering how
well the panels will work mounted on davits under the shade of the mizzen?
I have heard that solar panels are very unforgiving to shade spots, so I
have hesitated with adding panels. I was actually thinking of mounting
them on the cockpit stanchions and having them fold out when I wanted them
sunning, like little wings, though that probably wouldn’t work too well
while sailing. I’ve seen that done on several boats and their skippers seem
to like that. I know you well enough to know you researched it in depth
before making your decisions. So what’s your logic.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
If you use epoxy, you don’t need new gelcoat. If you use polyester, you
need to coat with epoxy or gelcoat.Best,
Bob
On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 8:54 AM, Page Two wrote:
Bob …What about redoing the gelcoat below the waterline, is it needed to
be done if using epoxy? Tor, I’d bet your guy did. Of course I’ll be
chatting up Dave, the fiberglass guy at Tiger Point Boat Yard too.
I’m getting ready to pull and rebuild as needed all my thru-hulls, along
with removing and relocating a few. The new compost head is done and has
really opened up the playing field below the sole. I haven’t got the whole
plan layed out yet but am anxious to have her out of the water so I can get
started. I wish I had more time but I really want to do some cruising this
season.Ken
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
It doesn’t matter that much, Tor, because the loading around those spots is
well below the capacity of the material that’s being put in there. To be
honest, you could put two thicknesses of mat there, well wet out, and it
would hold for the life of the hull. Where all the through hulls are, the
strength is far above the static or dynamic requirements, at least over the
area covered by the hole.Bob
On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 7:30 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:You know, my guy may have feathered back and built up a
little on the inside, as well. It was 7 years ago and I
may not be recalling it perfectly.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I do my own repairs, I use epoxy and biaxial cloth (two axis straight lines
with mat between and on one surface). I grind most out of the outside of
the hull, and some out (for two layers) on the inside. There is some
discussion about whether to start with the small circles first or the
larger ones. I see the point of them both, but I’ll do the larger ones
first from now on. I do the inside ones and let them start to set, then
start with the outside ones. If you have to wait, then a touch of sanding
on the outside before an acetone wipe will do the job.As Tor says, not rocket science.
Bob
On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 6:50 AM, Page Two wrote:
Here’s some video explaining it similar to the way Tor had his done. There
are a few video’s to get through and he can be a tad annoying but I feel he
is doing a very adequate repair. it’s not rocket science. I plan to be
doing up a few hols in the next few weeks. I’ll grind a small repair from
the inside after I do a job more to likes of Tor.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGr-OsUdf0A&list=PLV97GZkHhpHOKR_y03zg98Cxe6VLOq83B&index=2
Ken
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Will do, Bill. Safe passage – we won’t be into Nassau (Palm Key Marina)
until Monday afternoon. But keep on keepin’ on because I’ll be down with
Pelican next winter!Bob
On Sat, Dec 28, 2013 at 5:24 PM, wrote:
oh well…we’ll cross wakes somewhere down the line – keep in touch.
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 12/27/2013 2:50:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:hey – just might miss you then.
CHARISMA leaving for Norman’s on Monday, then a slow trek to Staniel for
new year’s.
keep me posted…
all the best, BILL~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 12/26/2013 1:57:09 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:Still in Bimini, leaving for Chubb tomorrow, Nassau the next day. We’ve
got
a free week in a new marina outside town, but will have a car. Let’s
stay
in touch. Would love to see you!Bob
On Dec 26, 2013 9:43 AM, wrote:BOB – season’s greetings fr CHARISMA anchored off Bay St. Marina in
NASSAU. Where are you?
BILL~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 12/26/2013 7:33:22 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:Happy holiday to you all! I’m spending mine away from my 424 in the
Bahamas. I hope the new year brings everyone happiness, health and
success
in all your projects.Bob
On Dec 25, 2013 9:30 AM, “quent” wrote:Claire and I would like to wish everyone on the forum a happy
holiday
ofyour choice including, but not limited to Merry Christmas, and a
happy,
safe, and fun New Year. May you all spend more time actually
sailing
your
Pearson 424 than working on it in 2014!
Ho, ho, ho!
Quent
S/V Clairebuoyant, #132
m2f
Read this topic online here:
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?p=13405#13405
m2f
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Run tanks and pump dry. Use pump discharge as an entry point for compressed
air. Blow air through every faucet one at a time.If you have a shore inlet, use that with fittings you can get from Home
Depot. Easy peasy.Bob
On Dec 26, 2013 1:22 PM, “pma_foyl” wrote:I realize that many have been altered, but I was wondering if anyone had a
simple schematic detailing the entire 424 fresh water system, from tanks to
manifolds to water pump to accumulator (for those who have) to hot water
heater, to heat-exchanger, etc.I’m trying to figure out the simplest way to winterize my boat for a few
days of travel (on a truck). I’ve been told that some of the mountain
passes and high deserts between seattle and SoCal may cause freezing. I
want to protect the system where needed, but would like to avoid antifreeze
(altho non-tox) in places where I may not need it.I’m thinking I could treat just one water tank (with about 10 gallons of
mix) and run it through the system (all faucets, shower, hot water heater,
etc.) and NOT treat the other tanks (which I’ll leave as dry as possible).
This way, the pump, accumulator, shower sump, etc. should be “freeze safe”.
Not sure if my logic is correct and if I could see a simple diagram, I
think it would help my thought process.Thanks,
paul
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Happy holiday to you all! I’m spending mine away from my 424 in the
Bahamas. I hope the new year brings everyone happiness, health and success
in all your projects.Bob
On Dec 25, 2013 9:30 AM, “quent” wrote:Claire and I would like to wish everyone on the forum a happy holiday of
your choice including, but not limited to Merry Christmas, and a happy,
safe, and fun New Year. May you all spend more time actually sailing your
Pearson 424 than working on it in 2014!
Ho, ho, ho!
Quent
S/V Clairebuoyant, #132_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks, that’s good stuff to know!
Bob
On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 8:56 PM, skipmac wrote:
Got the fresh water pump impeller section today and it is a perfect fit
for the cast iron core off my W58. So for under $100 I have a ready to
install pump fix with new shaft, seals, bearing and impeller instead of
$600-$700 for a new Westerbeke pump. Guess that red paint costs quite a
bit.The best part, I think this is the final confirmation for me that any
other parts I might need for the W58 I should be able to get at a very
reasonable price from any farm or tractor supply that supports the Perkins
4.154 series 200 engine._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I use the Starbrite PTFE wax for the hull and cabin sides. I don’t wax
what’s left of the nonskid. The wax works just like a car – wipe on, wipe
off.Lasts a season up north. No machine required.
Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Dec 10, 2013 10:11 AM, “Page Two” wrote:I know this is like asking what’s the best paper towel but I’m a complete
newbie to fiberglass and I’d appreciate some old salt, young salt,
qualified opinions.
Our first cleaning we found some small amount of purple stuff in a jug,
used a mix of it and Dawn….it kicked ass cleaning the decks of bird shit
stains. I know now it’s a powerful cleaner and not so good at keeping wax
on. I’ll find something a bit gentler after I get the waxing down. I’ve
NEVER waxed a boat. I’ve waxed a car, is it the same thing? What about
Woody Wax, I heard it’s a good product for the non skid, and easy! It
claims you can use it on just about anything. I hate that kind of
advertising!
I don’t want to get too anal about this job (power compounding etc.) it
being a 33 year old boat. I know how to handle an 8″ buffer grinder my 22
20 year old Makita is about dead after all the teak decks and wood hulls
I’ve worked on. I’m looking for a simple plan for maintenance, key word,
simple.Ken
Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I’ve used them (Dr.Led) lights throughout the boat and haven’t had an issue
with reliability or radio interference, although I haven’t used my SSB.
Should probably try that out at some point. Regardless, you can run ALL
your LED lights for the electrical cost of one of the Edison bulbs in the
salon. (By the way, I’ve replaced them with led Edison base bulbs, too)Bob
On Sat, Dec 7, 2013 at 7:53 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:No problems that I’ve noticed with the LED
tricolor+VHF/SSB/AIS on Silverheels.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
