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Except I’m removing the sink and putting in a drawer…
I’m not being terse. This is from my cell phone and I detest typing on it.
On Nov 26, 2013 1:14 PM, “Mizzenmonkey” wrote:You can direct them into the fwd sink with a small u shaped spout
Adam
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Lest you think that the 424 is the only Pearson to vent water tanks into
blind spaces or clothing drawers, it’s not. The 35 and others did the same
thing.The idea was to have the cushions off and look through the inspection plate
to ensure the tanks didn’t overflow. But when you need to remove 8
cushions and pull out a bunk the sense of that is lost.I put steel plates over the holes and made sure the vent was only high
enough to keep the tanks from emptying while heeled. About 18″. That
minimizes the tank pressure. Also it gets the bilge washed every so often.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my cell phone and I detest typing on it.
On Nov 25, 2013 6:07 PM, “Miss Kathleen” wrote:Bob,
Good point. The vents are currently located in the coaming and I was
thinking of moving the outlet to the anchor locker.On second thoughts your option returning the outlet to the bilge, maybe
with a siphon break, will be a better idea, and simplet to install.Anything is better than overflow water at the bottom of lockers, over
clothes, or into the bulkheads.Cheers
Dennis
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I moved all my vents to the bilge because I was tired of getting my clothes
wet every time I filled my tanks. Be careful about moving the vents to the
deck because the fiberglass tanks are not rated for much pressure – moving
the vent 2-4 feet above the tank results in a pressure of 1.5 to 2.0 psi.
They could fail.Bob
On Sun, Nov 24, 2013 at 1:40 PM, Miss Kathleen wrote:
Hi All,
Just replaced a portion of the bulkhead around the chain plates and also
the floor area inside the forepeak locker on the port side.At the same time I crack tested all the chainplates – and they were good,
however, on reinstallation one of the heads of a bolt broke off. Result –
new bolts!Generally the sealing around the plates was good and I took the
opportunity to fill the area around the chainplates with epoxy. No more
water will enter the deck area around the chainplates.It was hard to believe that a leaking chainplate could result in so much
damage. In the end, on evaluation, it was another item that caused the
damage.The water tank vent pipe fitting.
To replace the portion of bulkhead I had to remove quite a few items, and
one of these was the water tank vent – which in my case is simply a pipe
fitting jammed into a hole in the deck with some silicon for sealing. This
is then covered with a small piece of teak to prevent salt water entering
under rough conditions.I guess that over the years when the tanks were filled the water would
come out the vent pipe and then straight onto the bulkhead and then drain
down to the bilges inside the forward locker.I am going to re-route both port and starboard overflow pipes to the upper
anchor locker. Easy to monitor when filling, and no worries about salt
water entering the pipe.Maybe you folk have already addressed this issue, but if not, it would be
prudent to do a check on the vent fitting.Cheers
Dennis
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There were three transmission delivered with the W58 – two of which could
free wheel and one which could not. The Velvet Drive and the Hurth could
both free wheel without issue. There was one more whose name I forget
which could not. I’ll try to remember it. Generally, it was supplied with
the shaft brake where the others were not. Oh, it is the Paragon
transmission. That can’t free wheel because it won’t lubricate itself
properly. The Hurth could be put in reverse to stop free wheeling and the
Velvet Drive needed a brake because it is a hydraulic transmission so no
gears to engage.Mine is a Velvet Drive and I use the rotation to drive an alternator.
Bob
On Sat, Nov 16, 2013 at 4:41 PM, quent wrote:
That would be the same trans.
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You know Quent, I’m not sure I really sent an answer to you, but I’d love
the pump. I’ve actually hungered after that very one since my first boat.
Don’t ask me why.On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 3:57 PM, quent wrote:
We have one of those big Edson 30 pumps, bronze, but it has never made it
out of the basement. It has the intake on the bottom, not on the side.
The original plan was to mount it on a plywood panel to replace the cabin
sole opening just inboard of the galley and with an intake hose down into
the bilge. Never really figured out where to store it.
Would certainly make it available to anyone smart enough to find it a
stowing spot.
Cada, do you have the strainer with the big wing nut on top? If so, pm or
email me, I’ve got one I’m taking out of service.
Quent
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I’d take that pump. I’ll figure out a place to store it. I have two
2000GPH electric pumps, one high, one low. I also have the cockpit pump
that I test annually, and when I installed the holding tank and macerator I
added a manual pump that can be used with the cabin entirely closed (it’s a
requirement for SOLAS anyway).But I feel you can never have enough pumps. Or Spam.
We all want to be Tor if we grow up.
Bob
On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 3:57 PM, quent wrote:
We have one of those big Edson 30 pumps, bronze, but it has never made it
out of the basement. It has the intake on the bottom, not on the side.
The original plan was to mount it on a plywood panel to replace the cabin
sole opening just inboard of the galley and with an intake hose down into
the bilge. Never really figured out where to store it.
Would certainly make it available to anyone smart enough to find it a
stowing spot.
Cada, do you have the strainer with the big wing nut on top? If so, pm or
email me, I’ve got one I’m taking out of service.
Quent
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The raw water strainer I have is a Groco. They’re not that expensive and
you may find one at consignment shops. You also may find a basket that
fits your strainer from another manufacturer.I think my pump is either an Edson or Whale pump. Parts still available.
If it’s the yellow powder coated one, that is.Bob
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 5:22 PM, Cada Grove wrote:
Hi to all,
I have been away a good bit, but back to working on Jubilee. Need some
help with part identification.1. Raw water filter about 1980 – who was maker. My “basket”/ strainer has
given out and need to replace. Hope I don’t have to replace entire
strainer.2. Jubilee came with a manual bilge pump in the cockpit – I believe made
my Henderson(?). does any know of a drop in replacement. All the rubber
parts have given out – rebuilt it several times, but no parts available – I
think?Hope everyone had a good summer – was nice on the Chesapeake.
Cada Grove
Jubilee No. 100 Sloop
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Hi Tor,
It’s almost always less expensive to truck than ship when it’s over a few
days trip. A full crew costs about $500 per day plus expenses like
dockage, fuel and food as well as travel. You can find cheaper crew but
would you trust your baby to scallywags?The recommissioning costs sound outrageously expensive. What can you
possibly do for that amount of money? Putting the masts back on and dumping
the boat in the water should be around $1000. I guess San Diego is really
expensive – more than Stamford CT, that’s for sure.Bob
On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 5:40 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Paul, check on the cost of a delivery captain & crew.Tor
Quote:
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Oops, try this: http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com/2007_05_01_archive.html
On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 7:20 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Oh, and a heavy tarp or plastic covering the forward third of the hull may
save you having to clean off splattered road tar and insects.Quote:
Original Message
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Having prepared my last boat for shipping to Michigan from NY, I concur
with Tor. The only difference is that newer boat trailers have special
racks for spars alongside the hull. At least my shipper did.I prepped the mast and boom for shipping so I padded all the spots that
touched or rubbed. Also, I checked that everything was tied down properly
so it wouldn’t move about or jiggle.It’s a lot of work but not difficult. I wrapped the mast in bubble wrap.
The halyards were pulled all the way up and coiled and wrapped at the base,
along with the standing rigging. Spreaders were removed and stowed below.You can read about this at:
The boat arrived after the 2500 mile journey in perfect shape. I had to
empty the fuel and water tanks.Bob
On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 7:09 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Years ago when I was a yacht dealer, I used to truck boats cross-country
fairly often.Costs:
– Decide which boat yards you will use, then call them and ask for
estimates
and for owner preparation suggestions. They’ve done this stuff before and
should know what it entails.
– Ask for trucker recommendations.
– Just for grins, find out what a professional delivery skipper would
charge
to sail the boat down for you.Spars
– The spars will need to be securely lashed on the deck or coachhouse for
the trip. Be fussy about that; inspect them closely before the truck pulls
out, looking for areas that will chafe as the truck bounces along the
highway. Pad those areas very well. Otherwise you may wind up with a
damaged
mast, boom and/or deck. Truckers and boat yards are not always as careful
as
they should be about this detail.Trucker
– Shop around and let them know you’re comparing bids. You’d be surprised
at
how much trucking charges vary from company to company.
– Be sure they regularly carry yachts, even if you pay a little more for
that experience.
– Ask the trucking company for owner/yard preparation suggestions.
– Obtain a copy of the trucker’s insurance coverage (in advance), and then
check with your insurance provider about coverage for the trip.Tanks
– Although for such a short road trip this may not be necessary, I’d use
the
preparation as an opportunity to empty and clean the water tanks, and
either
empty or top off the fuel (unless the insurance or regulations require
empty
fuel tanks – the trucking company should know about that).Reef early,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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ARRRRRRGH! I have to recompile it to work in Linux. Feh!
On Thu, Nov 7, 2013 at 8:57 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
This link works, too, and is a little easier to type if necessary:
http://www.sail-world.com/USA/Navigational-charts-direct-from-Google-Earth—and-its-free/91281
On Thu, Nov 7, 2013 at 7:15 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Here’s something I just stumbled across, a free program that will convert
a
Google Earth picture directly to a BSB/KAP chart. That’s free charts of
the
world! Check it out
<
http://www.sail-world.com/Canada/Navigational-charts-direct-from-Google-Ear
th—and-its-free/91281> .Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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This link works, too, and is a little easier to type if necessary:
http://www.sail-world.com/USA/Navigational-charts-direct-from-Google-Earth—and-its-free/91281
On Thu, Nov 7, 2013 at 7:15 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Here’s something I just stumbled across, a free program that will convert a
Google Earth picture directly to a BSB/KAP chart. That’s free charts of the
world! Check it out
<
http://www.sail-world.com/Canada/Navigational-charts-direct-from-Google-Ear
th—and-its-free/91281> .Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Ah. Totally different engine. Thanks for the reply. ..
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my cell phone and I detest typing on it.
On Nov 4, 2013 1:35 PM, “Bill Emberley” wrote:Bob,
It’s a 60 with a blown head.Bill
Bill Emberley
*Edit One Productions, Inc.*
2310 Clement Ave.
Alameda, CA 94501Studio 510-814-9519
Cell 415-279-1340
Fax 510 814-6945On Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 10:19 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Bill, is your old Westerbeke a 58 by any chance?
Bob
On Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 1:18 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Nice job, Chuck! Better than any yard would do, that’s for sure. I
hope
(know) that baby will last a good long time!
Bob
On Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 12:49 PM, Bill Emberley <
wrote:Hey Chuck,
You are a true mechanical genius. That is exactly my next plan ofaction.
My old Westerbeke gave up the ghost and I am in the process of
scouting
out
a replacement.
Any suggestions on used (gently) engines? Just bought out my deadbeat
partner so monies are tight.Bill
SV Running Tab
Alameda, CAOn Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 9:21 AM, Chuck Ruble
wrote:
Took all summer but it is nearing completion. A slow dance…
I thought I’d share some photos of the process.Chuck[/url]
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Bill, is your old Westerbeke a 58 by any chance?
Bob
On Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 1:18 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Nice job, Chuck! Better than any yard would do, that’s for sure. I hope
(know) that baby will last a good long time!Bob
On Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 12:49 PM, Bill Emberley wrote:
Hey Chuck,
You are a true mechanical genius. That is exactly my next plan of action.
My old Westerbeke gave up the ghost and I am in the process of scouting
out
a replacement.
Any suggestions on used (gently) engines? Just bought out my deadbeat
partner so monies are tight.Bill
SV Running Tab
Alameda, CAOn Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 9:21 AM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Took all summer but it is nearing completion. A slow dance…
I thought I’d share some photos of the process.Chuck[/url]
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Nice job, Chuck! Better than any yard would do, that’s for sure. I hope
(know) that baby will last a good long time!Bob
On Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 12:49 PM, Bill Emberley wrote:
Hey Chuck,
You are a true mechanical genius. That is exactly my next plan of action.
My old Westerbeke gave up the ghost and I am in the process of scouting out
a replacement.
Any suggestions on used (gently) engines? Just bought out my deadbeat
partner so monies are tight.Bill
SV Running Tab
Alameda, CAOn Mon, Nov 4, 2013 at 9:21 AM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Took all summer but it is nearing completion. A slow dance…
I thought I’d share some photos of the process.Chuck[/url]
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
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