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Hi Rich,
Thanks again! I saw that and it’s the right hole, but it’s a last resort.
The hole is $4.00 but the shipping is $8.95. I’ll call them tomorrow to
see if I can get them to mail it for less.I figured I’d give it a try to see if anyone got rid of one of their doors
or drawers and kept the hole.Bob
On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 10:24 AM, wrote:
Quote:I found mahogony. you might be able to finish them to look OK.
http://www.drmarine.com/products.asp?cat=437Rich
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Do you have any of the finger pulls? The ones I can find on the web are
too small.Bob
On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 8:59 AM, quent wrote:
Yeah, did that. It’s now when Claire puts the stuff she doesn’t want to
share with me.
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Got them, Rich, too small – the ones I’m looking for have a 1-3/8″ ID.
These 1″ ones have an ID of one inch making them nothing useful for anyone
with fingers bigger than a child’s. Otherwise known as finger breakers.
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If you want to use Hayn terminals, I can get good prices on them. I can’t
remember if I can swage the largest wire – I’ll have to measure it, but if
you want mechanical terminals, I can certainly get you decent pricing. If
you do it yourself, which isn’t rocket science, and you use mechanical
terminals, you should be able to do the whole job for around 2K or so.
I’ll have to check this year’s prices, but that’s what it was a few years
ago.Bob
On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 6:43 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
jody & stephen
Where are you? If in the N. Florida region i recommend Sparman (
http://www.sparmanusa.com/HomePage.html). He’s a Brit based out of
Gainesville, Fl. Does quality work and does it timely.
He re-rigged my mizzen last year. I think the price was around $700. I
had the main re-rigged in 2007 for around $7K by a quality boat yard in
MD. Sparman did the rigging with the mast in place. The yard required the
main mast to be unstepped.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 6:31 PM, Paul Audi wrote:
I’m doing my standing rigging right now. It’s not done, so my final price
is up in the air.I had several earlier quotes from good riggers and some quotes for
rigging
alone (without labor). I was mostly getting quotes from the 8k to 12K
range
(on complete work, including labor and some timely upgrades (new wire,
LED
anchor/steaming lights, etc.)). From these guys, most were quoting the
rigging alone (no labor or upgrades) at about $6500 – $7500.The rigger I currently have working on my boat has quoted me $2000 for
rigging and $2000 for labor. A HUGE savings, if it holds true. To be
honest, I can’t imagine those being the final numbers, but I’ll keep you
posted.Paul
On Monday, February 17, 2014 2:32 PM, JodyandStephen <
> wrote:Hi everyone,
Has anyone had a re-rig of their ketch? We are essentially looking for
some price indicators.Thanks in anticipation,
Stephen & Jody
Blue Pelican
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I have a set of these, and admittedly I work on lots of boats in lots of
parts of the boats in lots of weather, but you have to be very careful that
these stay dry and if not, lubricated. They will cease faster than an
engine with no oil if not. I’m constantly un-sticking those that I don’t
use on a regular basis.Other than that, they’re great and super useful.
Bob
On Sat, Feb 15, 2014 at 6:13 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Rich,Those are cool tools! I’m getting a set.
Thanks for the tip.
Quote:
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Let me look in the morning. I thought you’d have the petcock there in
addition to the oil pressure sender. I’ll get back to you.Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Feb 14, 2014 6:00 PM, “kalinowski” wrote:Aloha Bob: The elbow that is just aft of the dip stick turned out to be a
drain/access (?) for the engine oil. I opened it and, yes, there was
engine oil in there. Perhaps there was once an oil pressure gauge in there
that a PO removed and replaced with a screw plug There are a couple of
screw-out plugs further aft of the oil elbow that are flush with the block
surface. I wonder if either of these are the coolant drain. Your thoughts?Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Usually there’s a petcock there, but if someone used a plug instead, yes,
that’s it.Bob
On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 5:50 PM, kalinowski wrote:
Finally getting to drain and flush my W-58 cooling system. Just checking
on the drain location as it is not shown in the parts catalogs that I have.
There is an elbow coming out of the block just behind the oil dipstick
with a small square drive plug in the forward facing end of it. Is this
the mysterious drain? Just want to be sure before I pull stuff apart.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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I know it sounds like a good idea to have the larger one but from what I’ve
read and learned in Captains school, if there is too much room there are
two dangers, one; imbalance csn cause the raft to capsize, and two; there
is a danger of injury from being thrown about.In other words, you’re supposed to be tightly packed.
More, for me, at least, short handed sailing means I don’t have company in
the raft.Thanks for confirming the price of recertification.
Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Feb 2, 2014 7:21 PM, “John Stevenson” wrote:Bob & Rich,
I can verify the certification cost for a Switlik raft at $1200. That is
the price I was quoted last year from the outfit in Baltimore.Bob,
I know you are smaller than I, but a 6 man raft is barely large enough for
2 people for more than 24 hours. If you’ve ever climbed into one with more
than another person you will want to get out ASAP. They are only for
survival, but I’m not sure I could survive with another person in a 4 man
raft.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 1:19 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Oh, no, the cost of a new raft is $2500 to $3500. So raft and cert is
like
$1500, at least from me. Check out the cost of these things. You’ll
have
a heart attack.
Bob
On Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 10:53 AM, wrote:
Bob
It’s been a while since I had to certify a raft. Your quoting the
certification price at $1200 and the cost of a new raft at $600. Doesthis
Quote:make sense?Rich
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Oh, no, the cost of a new raft is $2500 to $3500. So raft and cert is like
$1500, at least from me. Check out the cost of these things. You’ll have
a heart attack.Bob
On Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 10:53 AM, wrote:
Quote:Bob
It’s been a while since I had to certify a raft. Your quoting the
certification price at $1200 and the cost of a new raft at $600. Does this
make sense?Rich
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Cool. Thanks!
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Feb 2, 2014 9:13 AM, “quent” wrote:Assembly required. No fatal flaws that I could find, and some extra
gaskets. You are first in line if it doesn’t go with the boat.
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I think I’d like the spare engine if that’s possible. Is it a parts engine
or a running one?Bob
On Sat, Feb 1, 2014 at 1:32 PM, quent wrote:
Seriously thinking of listing our boat this Spring, but thought I’d see if
there was anyone interested here in the P-424 community. She is a 1981,
hull #132, sloop rigged, Westerbeke 58 with about 2,000 hours. If you are
looking for a time capsule boat with perfect cosmetics, she’s probably not
the right boat for you. She is however, a well equipped, comfortable
cruising boat with lots of new stuff in the decade or so that we have had
her. Lots of spares, including an entire engine.
There isn’t a lot that we haven’t changed on her; I like to think
inproved, but we kept all the old parts so most things could be put back
pretty easy. I’m not going anywhere so you could talk to PO rather than
just swear about him. Just call at a decent hour.
If anyone is interested, send me an email, or an IM.
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Ken, the alignment with the cutlass bearing is THE MOST IMPORTANT
alignment. The change of alignment with respect to the engine is probably
well within the allowable limits of that alignment. And unless you really
like changing the cutlass bearing, take care of that.Because the jack shaft has universal joints on either end you have
considerable play. Unless you’ve bent the strut, which is another thing
altogether. But if it’s a vertical adjustment and it’s only 1/8th inch,
I’d say you’re good to go – just do it. There is nothing to say it wasn’t
out of alignment before.Finally, you’ll check the alignment again once the boat’s in the water.
Don’t be surprised if you have to reverse most of what you’re doing now
when all the dust settles. For now, close enough is good enough. You’re
not going to run the shaft very fast until you’ve done the final alignment.A properly aligned shaft and cutlass should last years – lots of them. In
theory, when the shaft is running it’s not even touching the cutlass
inasmuch as it floats on a film of water.Good luck!
Bob
On Sun, Jan 26, 2014 at 8:02 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Ken, the alignment with the cutlass bearing is THE MOST IMPORTANT
alignment. The change of alignment with respect to the engine is probably
well within the allowable limits of that alignment. And unless you really
like changing the cutlass bearing, take care of that.Because the jack shaft has universal joints on either end you have
considerable play. Unless you’ve bent the strut, which is another thing
altogether. But if it’s a vertical adjustment and it’s only 1/8th inch,
I’d say you’re good to go – just do it. There is nothing to say it wasn’t
out of alignment before.Finally, you’ll check the alignment again once the boat’s in the water.
Don’t be surprised if you have to reverse most of what you’re doing now
when all the dust settles. For now, close enough is good enough. You’re
not going to run the shaft very fast until you’ve done the final alignment.A properly aligned shaft and cutlass should last years – lots of them. In
theory, when the shaft is running it’s not even touching the cutlass
inasmuch as it floats on a film of water.Good luck!
Bob
On Sat, Jan 25, 2014 at 8:33 PM, Page Two wrote:
OK. I’m now smack in the middle of this discussion….I have removed the
cutlass bearing and old, worn (by.020 at the strut) bronze shaft and had a
new quality SS shaft made. Also, just for a point of fact, there were signs
of the shaft hitting at the stern tube with visual damage on the old shaft.
Not much, I first thought maybe it was that big barnacle that took up house
in the stern tube, now, no so much.With new cutlass, new shaft, and my own get it done with what I have
attitude, that has always worked out for me, I set about to get the new
cutlass bearing in. I carefully (I have 15 years machinist background)
filed a leading edge on the cutlass bearing brass to assure a nice starting
lead to assure it started in straight. Before starting in the cutlass
bearing, I installed the new shaft, attached the forward coupling and temp.
bolted it to the v-drive (one end of the shaft is supposedly where it is
supposed to be). I then greased the cutlass bearing and slipped it over the
tapered end of the shaft and into place to get started inserting it into
the strut. Once I felt it was started straight, I did my thing. Now I don’t
need no fancy hydraulics or any over built home remedy to know if a 6′ long
sleeve is going in straight and it becomes very obvious from the start with
my background. With one bar clamp, yes, just one, and a soft hammer, I
managed to get that bearing in almost about 2 inches. At that point
(actually before then) there is NO DOUBT that it is going in straight in
line with the strut body. Before I got this far, I thought that the shaft
looked out of line with the strut and the stern tube. Hmmm!As I continued to do my thing and get that bearing driven further into
the strut, the shaft started getting tighter and tighter in that bearing.
Hmmm! (maybe this is why the old strut was oblong top to bottom??)After this, I see that my v-drive coupling is maybe 1/8″ high or maybe
even “more” out of line with the strut/cutlass bearing. I imagine it’s just
a vertical misalignment but dang it seems like a lot. My concern is, if I
drop the v-drive down that much to align with the strut, will the engine
still align with the v-drive within tolerance.Has anyone seen these extremes? I know the most important alignment is
shaft coupling to v-drive coupling. How the shaft aligns in the cutlass
bearing isn’t all that important (kinda) other than excessive and premature
wear of the cutlass bearing.Sorry this is so long winded, just need to bounce it around.
Ken
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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You’re welcome, Rodd. I am still hoping to get down there to meet you.
The winter is a great time because I’m not working 7 days a week.That said, I could be more specific on how to do the job – it entails
rotating the engine manually and getting different pistons at top dead
center (TDC) using the marks on the flywheel. There may also be one on the
damper at the engine front.If your engine is running ok with no smoke and no unusual rattling, you
might think twice before doing the job. It’s a case of if it’s not broke,
don’t break it.Bob
On Thu, Jan 23, 2014 at 9:56 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Quote:Thanks Robert.
I am due for this and will arrange for it this spring.Rodd
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1200 hours, every 1000 hours after. It’s in the manual and requires a new
25 dollar gasket. The manual is on the 424 site somewhere.Head bolts should torqued at 50 hours and I don’t know if there’s another
requirement after that absent head removal.Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Jan 22, 2014 7:46 PM, “Rodd Leeds” wrote:has anyone adjusted their valves recently on a W-58? I am wondering what
is the recommended interval for checking this adjustment. can anyone
describe the procedure?also, what about torqueing the head gasket bolts? same questions.
thanks guys.
Rodd Leeds
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Congratulations! One yucky job done!
Ps. Good meeting you the other day!
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Jan 15, 2014 6:39 PM, “Page Two” wrote:I got the sucker out….in three pieces.
I used the advice I got here and hooked up a come-along to finish breaking
the mass of (concrete/mortar type stuff) free from the inside of the hull.
It was not difficult, heavy, but not difficult. It was probably never
really attached from the very beginning. It came out all black, no doubt
holding a thin layer of moisture and crud between it and the hull. I am so
glad this mass is gone from the boat. I will try to post pictures here but
have had trouble re-sizing them to fit. I had to use my large hammer drill
to drill a series of holes across the mass and beat with a very large
hammer until it breaks. I made three pieces.
Anyway, I certainly would not recommend filling the bottom of the bilge
unless you extensively grind everything to clean fiber of all that will be
filled and then glass a heavy fillet on top of that.I’ll get some pics on the blog.
Ken
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