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Thanks Paul!
That's the one!
Bob
On Tue, May 27, 2008 at 7:06 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bob:
I measure my control housing at 6 7/8″ OD
Paul
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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Hi Tor,
Sorry – I should have said the binnacle diameter – where the compass sits. Paul came up with the magic number. You are, of course, correct. There are a bunch of diameters.
Bob
On Tue, May 27, 2008 at 6:57 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Sorry, Bob, I'm not understanding which measurement you need. To me a “pedestal” is the entire vertical structure in the cockpit to which is attached the steering wheel and engine controls, like a post with a compass on top. Mine has a variety of dimensions, depending upon which part you're measuring. The base is about 10″ diameter, the main post looks to be about 3-1'4″, then it flares wide again at the top where the compass sits. Can you be more specific about which part of the pedestal you want measured?Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
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Hi Tor,
Thanks – I need the pedestal diameter – I think it's 6-7/8″. That's what Edson has on the paperwork from Pearson when the ordered the pedestals…
Could you confirm that?
Thanks!
Bob
On Tue, May 27, 2008 at 6:42 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Tor,
Yes I have – I like the electric ones because, well, they're electric. There are 12v and 120v, and I figure with the generator, the 120 would be more robust. I don't want to float around the world with it. I just want to be able to do my bottom work and maybe help out a mate.
Here's a company I like: http://www.airlinebyjsink.com/electichookah.html
And one that's been around for a long time: http://www.browniedive.com/hooka/index.shtml
It's gonna be 1 grand no matter what, eh?
Bob
On Mon, May 26, 2008 at 4:27 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,A diving hookah is on my wish list, too. Have you researched them at all?
Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Hi Linus,
I bought Pelican in June of 07 and was living aboard at a mooring in City Island, NY. I got the Honda 2000 EU for around 850 with shipping on line. I have used it to heat my water, charge batteries, and do all sorts of stuff – I may even get a 120v hooka for underwater maintenance.
As far as work goes, I had to rebuild my head yesterday with company aboard.
Bob
On Mon, May 26, 2008 at 10:52 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Linus, if it is any consolation, we are working in Canada today as well. My boat came with a 4 Kw Apollo genset. Because of this, the refrigeration system is a Seafrost 110V (BF-3) system, so I am stuck having to run it daily. It also has a 12,000 BTU Cruiseair system, so in theory, I could air condition while sailing. It was a live – aboard Florida boat, so I guess that explains the setup.
If I were starting from scratch, I assume I would have gone the solar / 12v route for less dollars. However, that would not address your need for air-conditioning in the summer. I probably also would have purchased a Honda EU 2000. It sounds like most people are pretty happy with them and they only cost around $1000. At a 5 year life, that is $200/yr, less than the interest cost on a full diesel genset. If you are wanting to air condition all night, they would be the quietest way to go. Note, you can get adapters to run them from a larger, portable tank, like you would use for an outboard. Of course, the biggest hassle over a diesel genset could be the handling of the gas, depending on your circumstances.
Going the homemade route could be pretty cost effective. Rich Boren (Pearson 365) also went that way, adding on a water maker at the same time. I think Alan is also making one. Rich picked up his Kubota diesel for $500 off of e-bay. Here is a link to a discussion on his system
http://64.70.221.24/DiscBoard/viewtopic.php?t=2445&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=third&start=15
Paul
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Bob Fine
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Hey Adam,
Where will you be Saturday? Northport? Sunday? Oyster Bay?
Bob
On Fri, May 23, 2008 at 1:25 PM, adam silverstein wrote:
Western LI Sound. Wind W 12-15; seas 1ft. Trucking along 6 + easy in any direction. No powerboats. Memorial Day Friday and no powerboat wakes, traffic, numbnuts straight from the boat show with their bonus check boat and the wit and wisdom of, well, a twentysomething currency trader. There is a bright side to recession and energy crisis.
Still, 1-20-09!-Adam Silverstein
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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Hi Alan,
Mine are 1/2″ – I have three, one for each alternator and one for the water pumps.
Bob
On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 11:06 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I am thinking there 3/8… only cause I remember
thinking I wished they wre 1/2″
ap— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'll look at my spares when I get home.
Bob
On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 5:57 AM, Indulgence
< ([email][/email])> wrote:Does anyone know what the width of the alternator
belt is on the w58?
Thanks
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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A bigger prop? There is one problem many overlook with that – as the blades get closer to the hull, a low pressure area forms and causes turbulence and cavitation. It will result in a rather annoying rumbling sound when at speed and will cause the propeller to wear. Really.
You'd probably be better re-pitching the prop.
Bob
On Fri, May 23, 2008 at 11:43 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
There is a 4″ clearance to the bottom of the hull (It's easy to measure these things when the boat is on the hard 50 ft from my desk!!)
Paul
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Bob Fine
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Do you have the 'U' layout or the 'L' layout?
Bob
On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 11:21 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:You see, marine refrigeration is part art and part
science. Way too many variables. Before you spend
upwards of 2-3k on a system, you probably better be
sure of what heck you are doing or at least close to
the right thing or have a darn good back-up plan.
This January, as I was about to put router to counter
top, I said a little prayer. Either I am a hero, or I
just made the biggest mistake in my life (no that's
not true,I was married once).
So far I am pretty pleased, but I'll have to wait for
the warm weather to get here.
I now have access to the top thru a top lid. The
bottom thru a front opening door and access to the
freezer section thru a 2nd top opening lid.
4cu ft refer and a 3 cu freezer. Before anyone gets
their panties twisted, the front opening door is a
good idea in that I no longer have to take everything
out to get to the bottom of the cooler. I can now just
reach in and grab the stuff in the lower part.
Remember my PO had already modified the box, so it
does not looks like any of yours.
It's only 13 inches wide and 4 feet deep and 48 inches
long along the top. Too deep for my short arms.alan
Quote:Alan
I completely agree with your comments about
Sea-Frost. I'm the first to complain when I get bad
service. It is only fair to complement when we get
good service. We should add Sea-Frost to our
recommended vendor list.The Kollman Marine book is great. I had it out just
last weekend. I replaced my compressor over the
winter and had to recharge my system.Even if you don't plan to service your own
refrigeration, the book is filled with useful
information about how they work and suggestions for
improvement to existing systems. It's well worth
the cost. They sell two books. I have the
do-it-youself book linked below.
http://www.kollmann-marine.com/book.htmlThey have an second volume with information specific
to 12v systems.
http://www.kollmann-marine.com/manual.htm—
Rich Carter
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I'll look at my spares when I get home.
Bob
On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 5:57 AM, Indulgence < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Does anyone know what the width of the alternator belt is on the w58?
Thanks
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Eric,
The plastic ones screw right in, too, to the headers and so forth. It's your choice. The plastic ones are less expensive and easier to install. But either will work. I don't like using the brass ones because it's something else to corrode. Not that they will in my lifetime, I suppose, but that's just my two cents.
Either way, you'll be much happier with your installation.
Bob
On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 7:20 AM, Eric Lorentzon < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Thanks
Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Eric,
The tubing is 1/2″ OD, 3/8″ ID, and Home Depot has a bunch of the fittings for not too much money. They are super simple to use (cut tubing square, insert into fitting, all done). They also have the tubing.
Bob
On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 7:03 AM, Eric Lorentzon < ([email][/email])> wrote:
There was a string abit ago about replacing the black plastic fittings –
ALL of mine are leaking. What size are they?
That and wireing my radar are this weekends projects – lets see, so the rule of 5 means I will have 10 more things to do……—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Eric,
The tubing is 1/2″ OD, 3/8″ ID, and Home Depot has a bunch of the fittings for not too much money. They are super simple to use (cut tubing square, insert into fitting, all done). They also have the tubing.
Bob
On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 7:03 AM, Eric Lorentzon < ([email][/email])> wrote:
There was a string abit ago about replacing the black plastic fittings –
ALL of mine are leaking. What size are they?
That and wireing my radar are this weekends projects – lets see, so the rule of 5 means I will have 10 more things to do……—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I agree – Saildrives are like little underwater jewels. They're delicate, complicated, and require too much maintenance. For racing they're probably the cat's meow.
For general abuse, not so much.
If you want more control for the boat and you really want to spend huge amounts of money, get a bow thruster. For less money, widen the rudder 6″. It is my opinion the major problem with steerage is because the rudder is too small.
Bob
On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 4:41 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
My boat neighbor got a brand spanking new Tartan 3400
last year. What a piece of sh**. The saildrive and the
boat. He had an oil leak in the drive. In order to
repair it they had to haul the boat, grind out a big
hunk of fibreglass fairing. After replacing the
seal(in which the lower unit had to be removed) they
spent two days refairing the hull. Progres??? I'll
take the old stuff anyday. At least I can repair it
myself, anywhere!
alan
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Bob Fine
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Well, the oil leak can occur with a sail drive as well, and the force directly in line wouldn't be a useful thing unless you were going to plane the hull.
Bob
On Tue, May 20, 2008 at 6:05 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
It’s also less noise and no alignment problems which is what I liked about the idea.
Today, while searching (without success) for the mystery oil leak in my westerbeke, I found my relatively new absorbent pads were saturated with Diesel, so I’m thinking about all of this again.
On 5/20/08 5:35 PM, John Stevenson wrote :
Aaron,
I'm sure it is possible, although it would certainly require a lot of fiberglass work and some serious design work. Have you talked to saildrive owners? I think you might be exchanging one set of problems for a bunch of much worse ones.
For example:- Most saildrives are aluminum and zincs are essential to preserve the unit. I have a friend who owns a Sweden Yacht 38 with a Volvo saildrive. He neglected to have the zinc collar replaced for 2 seasons. The result was a $10,000 rebuild of the lower unit. A lot of that may have been faulty wiring on our dock, but still …
- Many saildrives require a haulout to change the crankcase oil.
I would certainly be interested to hear if anyone has converted a P424 to saildrive. I am aware of a few advantages (besides losing the Walters gear).
- Prop force inline with the direction of movement (instead of down 20 deg)
- Excellent control in forward and reverse. My friend can park his S38 like he has a bow thruster.
On Tue, May 20, 2008 at 7:56 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anybody repowered a 424 with a saildrive and eliminated the vdrive? Is it even possible?
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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Anything is possible with enough money. Is it worth it? I'd say 'No!'. There isn't enough space for a saildrive inasmuch as the engine takes the space between the prop and rudder. If you didn't mind having your engine in the doorway between the aft cabin and main cabin, you could do it.
Bob
On Tue, May 20, 2008 at 7:56 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anybody repowered a 424 with a saildrive and eliminated the vdrive? Is it even possible?
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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