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I thought of using epoxy floor levelling compound used for levelling dips
and so forth in concrete floors. But to date, I can’t be bothered.Bob
On Fri, Nov 1, 2013 at 9:11 AM, Page Two wrote:
I think your right Bob.
After I posted this I thought of the PIA it represents and thought…..I
could form a styrofoam filler in the well and glass over it, yeah, what a
PIA that would be!
I doubt that 1/2″ dam couldn’t live with a couple of 1/2 breeches in it
and then it can just “pretend” to be a PIA.
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There is no purpose to that well of mold producing water. It does
communicate to the anchor locker under the water tank. It was put there
mostly to annoy us. Or to keep the humidity of the bilge high.That 1/2 inch dam is part of the mast step.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my cell phone and I detest typing on it.
On Nov 1, 2013 3:27 AM, “Page Two” wrote:What’s with the little pocket just forward of the mast in the bilge? Deep
enough to hold a gallon or two of water and then sit there keeping the base
of the mast wet because not only is there that pocket forward, they built a
little 1/2″ tall dam just aft the mast on the edge of the step. What were
they thinking? Has anyone done anything to this area like put in a tiny
bilge pump, drill drainage holes?I haven’t fished under the fwd water tank yet and I assume there is a
limber from the chain locker. The water I have there at present (I hope, I
saw it dripping during rain) is from a leak at some windlass wires running
through the old hause from the deck chain locker.Ken
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Clear your cache, Ken. It might work after that.
Bob
On Fri, Oct 25, 2013 at 5:12 PM, Page Two wrote:
Pete, I tried earlier on your site but the link didn’t work. I just tried
again, still can’t get that link. I didn’t try any others.Ken
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Try Kiwigrip. Tor doesn’t like it, I do and it lasts forever with almost
no staining (you can by leaving iron to rust on it). Also pretty
inexpensive and easy to apply with customizable grippiness.Bob
On Fri, Oct 25, 2013 at 1:33 PM, wrote:
Quote:Pete
Your links don’t appear to work. Is there something wrong with your
website?I’m curious about your deck painting experience. I’ve not found anything
I like. I tried interlux 2-part but the deck was too slippery. I tried
interlux deck paint but the grit is too aggressive and the paint holds
dirt. I tried Pettit EZDecks paint. Though the grit is also too
aggressive, the paint is more durable than interlux. I want something that
gives a good grip, looks good, is durable, and sheds dirt.
Rich
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Actually, I was wondering that as well. The jack shaft has universal joints
on both ends with the capability of being offset by perhaps 10 degrees or
so, maybe more. The only critical alignment is the prop shaft.Bob
On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 9:29 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:Tor,I will risk correcting Tor however I just read the Walter manual and
aligned my whole drive system since I just put the boat in the water with a
new engine recently. The v-drive is aligned to the prop shaft first (and
locked down) then the engine(jack shaft) is aligned to the v-drive. How
could you adjust the prop alignment if the v-drive were already aligned to
the engine?Definitely do it in the water, after the boat has settled a day or few.
Pete
On 10/21/2013 9:08 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Ken,Unless you have a long way to go before you reach the boat yard, you may
want to just wait and re-align the whole drive train when you re-launch.The shaft between the engine and the V-drive, which I call the jack shaft,
is aligned by first bolting the coupling at the transmission and then
using
the V-drive’s several positioning adjustments to align the forward
coupling,
where the jack shaft couples to the V-drive. The Walter V-drive manual
explains exactly how to do that. If you don’t have the manual I can email
it
to you as a PDF file.Once the jack shaft is aligned, you then align the propeller shaft to
V-drive coupling as you would any other prop shaft coupling.If the boat has been running out of alignment for a while, it may need a
new
cutlass bearing now. (Let me know if you have trouble removing the old one
and I’ll tell you a few tricks I learned when doing mine.) If/when you do
replace the cutlass bearing you’ll have to pull the prop shaft. You may as
well have it checked and trued on the lathe at Coats’ Machine Shop at the
marina road entrance. Chuck Coats is a good ol’ country boy and he won’t
overcharge you. (He’s also great at working with you to create custom
bits &
pieces during your refit. Tell him I said hey.)While you’re at it, it does no harm (and might do some good) to also have
the propeller “reconditioned” if the PO never did. It only costs about
$100.
Just bring it into the marina office, tell them what you want, and they’ll
have it picked up and delivered back within a week.If your V-drive has never been rebuilt, consider having that done by the
Walter factory in New Jersey. It isn’t cheap, but those things don’t last
forever on their own.Have fun,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I have a 11 foot Achilles with a Nissan 8 HP engine and inflatable floor
and keel. Planes with two people, carries 1600lbs of people and stuff, and
hangs from davits. I never leave the engine on it while hoisted.Bob
On Fri, Oct 18, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I have a 11′ Achilles with a Nissan 8 HP engine and inflatable floor and
keel. Planes with two people, carries 1600lbs of people and stuff, and
hangs from davits. I never leave the engine on it while hoisted.Bob
On Fri, Oct 18, 2013 at 3:14 PM, quent wrote:
On davits? Might have to raise aft waterline a bit. Close to 200 pounds
of dinghy, and also maybe a 15hp outboard to push it.
We have a 10 foot Caribe and a 2 cycle Yamaha and it is still a
handful. Of course, crossing an inlet or playing tug when the main engine
goes down, I’d want nothing less.
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Cool! Have fun out there!
Bob
On Thu, Oct 17, 2013 at 12:24 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:FYI,
After a low-stress sail to CA from TX (by truck), Whiffler’s new home is
Kona Kai Marina on Shelter Island, San Diego. The boat is now out of the
gulf and my insurance dropped $1,300. Now, I just have to get the boat put
back together so it can be used again. More than a week end job!!Steve
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Positively 1.5″
I’m not being terse. This is from my cell phone and I detest typing on it.
On Oct 16, 2013 7:34 PM, “pma_foyl” wrote:Hello all,
I’m curious if anyone knows what the prop shaft diameter is? I’ve seen
reports of both 1″ and 1.5″.Anyone POSITIVE they know the answer?
Thank you,
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I have a 120% and a staysail. I’d like a 130-135%. The boat goes ok as
is, though. If you do get a new headsail, make sure the clew is not so
high that you can’t flatten or shape it. I think a 155 is too big.Bob
On Wed, Oct 9, 2013 at 8:39 PM, Adam wrote:
I currently have a 155% genoa on roller fuller, and considering new
headsail. Sailmaker recommends 135% instead of 155%. What do you all have
and like?Thanks
Adam
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The double posts are not Tor’s fault. It’s because there’s a time delay
before we who manage the site get to seeing his emails that are too big and
when he sends them again as smaller emails.Bob
On Sun, Oct 6, 2013 at 12:43 PM, Page Two wrote:
@Tor wrote:
Ken, I’ve answered your off-forum inquiry about my boat yard
twice, but keep
getting Failure to Deliver notices. Have you received wither of my replies?Tor
No, nothing about the boatyard which I sent from my att e-mail. Obviously
you got that. Try I just opened it recently.FYI you did double post on the forum with your pictures of the lazarette.
You do that quite often
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I used to get paid a lot of money to read the directions. ..
I’m not being terse. This is from my cell phone and I detest typing on it.
On Oct 5, 2013 7:31 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Ah so you actually followed the instruction ;^)
On 10/5/2013 7:26 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Pete, I kinda am, but when I put my sensor in I made sure that the
center of the sensor was aligned with the center of the rudder shaft and
the arm was parallel to the yoke arm when the rudder was centered and the
little connecting arm was parallel to a line running through both centers.
It took some doing, but made calibration easier.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my cell phone and I detest typing on it.
On Oct 5, 2013 6:16 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Thanks.
On 10/5/2013 3:55 PM, quent wrote:
Hi Pete
Rudder angle indicator on Clairebuoyant hard over against the stops:
32 degrees to port, 29 degrees to starboard.
Geometry is pretty accurate, 1.5 degrees out at centerline is actually
pretty good for just eyeball work.
You probably should shave off a few degrees so autopilot won’t hit the
stops.
We have a Nexus/Comnav autopilot which is pretty much self calibrating.
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Hi Pete, I kinda am, but when I put my sensor in I made sure that the
center of the sensor was aligned with the center of the rudder shaft and
the arm was parallel to the yoke arm when the rudder was centered and the
little connecting arm was parallel to a line running through both centers.
It took some doing, but made calibration easier.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my cell phone and I detest typing on it.
On Oct 5, 2013 6:16 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Thanks.
On 10/5/2013 3:55 PM, quent wrote:
Hi Pete
Rudder angle indicator on Clairebuoyant hard over against the stops:
32 degrees to port, 29 degrees to starboard.
Geometry is pretty accurate, 1.5 degrees out at centerline is actually
pretty good for just eyeball work.
You probably should shave off a few degrees so autopilot won’t hit the
stops.
We have a Nexus/Comnav autopilot which is pretty much self calibrating.
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I seem to remember something like 20 degrees. But I could be wrong.
Often, if you have the indicator, you can watch it while you turn it lock
to lock. Subtract a couple of degrees and use that.Bob
On Fri, Oct 4, 2013 at 7:59 PM, pete wrote:
I am commissioning a new auto pilot in the morning. Anyone know the
maximum rudder angle so I can put that value accurately into the computer?Thanks,
Pete
Sent from my Android smartphone with a spell checker that is programmed to
entertain you.
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Wow. Just that. Wow.
Bob
On Fri, Sep 27, 2013 at 1:39 PM, Dos Locos wrote:
Wow! What an amazing life he had.
Check out this video on YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijcdrPdIoXA&feature=youtube_gdata_player
his story is here
http://bwsailing.com/cc/2013/06/19/videos-of-the-week-remembering-capt-alex-rust/
all videos are here
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=The+Best+of+Alex+Rust+aboard+Bubbles&oq=The+Best+of+Alex+Rust+aboard+Bubbles&gs_l=youtube.12…30478.30478.0.32457.1.1.0.0.0.0.159.159.0j1.1.0…0.0…1ac..11.youtube.zuCktfWbi4o
Dos Loco’s
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Man, I got a good chuckle from that one!
I’m not being terse. This is from my cell phone and I detest typing on it.
On Sep 26, 2013 2:16 PM, “quent” wrote:After days in the vicious gulf stream storm, Bob, battered and exhausted,
realizes that the old Pearson despite his heroic efforts is doomed. A
few hours later, a coast guard helicopter struggles to hold position as
they winch Bob from his sinking vessel to safety.
As he reaches the helicopter, Bob comes face to face with his rescuer and
hears him say-
“Skipper, it’s that guy on Facebook!”_______________________________________________
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