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Remove the compass. There are instructions on Edson’s site. Depending on
whether you have a newer or older pedestal will determine how to change the
cable but in either case it’s pretty apparent.Bob
On Jan 19, 2013 2:28 PM, “cstewart” wrote:Thanks everyone for your input on the injection pump. I took the old one
off and had it rebuilt at a specialty shop, $585.00. Done.Now I have a new problem. While putting everything back together, I
noticed that my Throttle Cable is bad and needs replacing. I thought,
simple, just pull a new cable and attach. Here’s the question: how in the
world do you get inside the pedestal?
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
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Hi Dan,
All funning aside, the major trim worry that comes from this would be
pitch, bow down. If you’ve already put that amount of rode up there then
you’ve already dealt with that.The rolling moment arm from the division of the rodes would be negligible.
Bob
On Jan 9, 2013 1:28 AM, “kalinowski” wrote:A question for those of you that have divided their anchor locker along
the boat centerline. I am at the point of cutting out the floor of the
shallow anchor locker to open that area into one big compartment. I plan
to store 300 feet of 3/8 chain on the starboard side and 280′ of 12 strand
with 20′ of chain on the port side. A dock neighbor wondered if that chain
rode weight would cause the boat to list to starboard. A suggested
alternative would be to mount the divider between the two rodes
transversally port to starboard, so the weight of the all chain rode would
be more evenly balanced across the beam.I would appreciate the benefit of your experience with this.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Hi Stephen and Jody,
I forget whether you have a baby stay and/or dolphin striker below that
platform. If you do, I’d expect it to be strong enough to handle the code
zero. If you don’t, it’s probably not designed for that kind of loading,
especially if there’s a puff. But without studying the attachments and
backing I can’t offer any other advice.I think the purpose of that bar was a platform for managing anchors.
Anyone else have an idea?Bob
On Thu, Dec 27, 2012 at 10:43 AM, JodyandStephen wrote:
Hi all, we have a an assy that came with Blue Pelican, our 424 ketch,
which we have never flown. We are planning our light weather sail set up
[obviously for when we leave the Caribbean] and are contemplating adapting
this sail to a facnor code zero type furler. My question pertains to the
tack point. We have one of those bow bars, which looks hefty enough to
possibly take a tack point, does anyone know the design purpose of this
solid round bar before the bow? It seems to be in position for a spinnaker
tackline. I also note that these were not incorporated in the original
plans on the sloop/cutter rigged 424’s.
Any knowledge here would be appreciated.
Stephen & Jody
Blue Pelican
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Also, the shower fiberglass is flexible enough to handle a fairly large
hatch- just stay away from the corners.Bob
On Wed, Dec 19, 2012 at 6:13 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:No problem at all. Depending on the size of the hatch you might have to
trim the contact surface a bit if there is too much interference when
closing.S
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794 and it’s replacement (I think 799) are specifically designed for
structural glazing where there can be large temperature changes. No
problem there. Too many times I’ve seen GE RTV or West Silicone Sealant in
a tube smeared around portlights, hatches, leaking teak, and so forth with
horrible results. The key is the right sealant for the right job applied
correctly. So, it’s only one silicone I abhor and it’s the general purpose
one that ends up causing more problems than it solves.Also: 794 and the GE equivalent can be removed cleanly where the general
purpose stuff resists cleaning forever.So, Tor, use whatever you like or is least expensive that is specifically
for plastics.Bob
On Wed, Dec 19, 2012 at 5:01 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:I find it interesting that Bob Fine is negative about the use of
silicones as a sealant for Lexan polycarbonate in hatches, yet in the post
below he specifically says he uses Dow 794. Well Dow 794 is a silicone
sealant and it’s a direct match to GE SCS 2002.
The cure time is 24 hours, not 7+ days as he claims below.Joe,
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You can buy the stuff from Bomar or you can use Dow Corning 794 or you can
use a black polysulfide (if it says it’s for plastic, which I think it is).
5200 and 4000 are specifically not for plastics.Bob
On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 6:53 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Thanks again, Joe. “I” am not using acrylic. I am using whatever Bomar
put in their hatches in 1978. Any guesses what it is? Anyone?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hey, Joe,
Silicone can be a terrific sealant if used properly. Just smooshed on and
clamped will ensure you have water everywhere you don’t want it. The
silicone/urethane or silicone/polysulfide mixtures are ok, as long as they
won’t attack plastic. The purpose of mixing them, I suspect, is to make up
for the weaknesses of each alone. As you or someone mentioned, silicone is
not a great adhesive which is what causes the capillary action. The
urethane/polysulfide are both pretty aggressive adhesives.So rather than recommending it, I recommend against it for just that
reason. The long and the short of it is, though, read the instructions.Bob
On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 2:43 PM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Tor,You must have missed it..both have UV resistance. The 4000 is higher
molecular weight and forms a harder polymer when fully cured. Both will
work in your application.
I was surprised to read Bob Fine’s remarks about silicones. They are used
so often in glazing….oh well.
I would be careful with acrylic for a hatch since we tend to stand on them
so often. Eventually they will get brittle and crack. But if you do use
acrylic make sure the sealant does not have a solvent that attacks it.Joe,
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Hi Tor,
Sikaflex makes a sealant for acrylics (lexan, poly carbonate, etc.) You
have to look at the product to get the right one and the sikaflex site will
have information as well.If you’re rebedding hatch plastic, I use a product Dow Corning 794. It’s
used in glazing buildings and will adhere to plastics. You can apply it
from -20 deg to 140 deg F. It will last as long as you own the boat, for
sure. The down side is the length of time it takes to completely cure
which is 7-21 days depending on temperature, humidity, and bead thickness.West Marine also markets a sealant for plastic, I think a
silicone-urethane. If one’s nearby, just have a look at the tube.If it doesn’t mention acrylics specifically, don’t use it on them. The
results will be mixed, but usually not in a good way.About silicone as a sealant: Silicone is a compressive sealant. That
means you make the seal and after a day or so you tighten the thing you’re
sealing. If you don’t do it that way, you will guarantee leakage within a
year, probably less, due to capillary action. There is no place for
silicone sealant on a boat except, perhaps, to keep rigging cotter pins in
place and protect sails from the sharp points. There are too many good
sealants, adhesives and bedding compounds that it isn’t worth the
aggravation of using silicone.For all of you who have spread silicone around portlight glass expecting
grand, if messy results, you’ll be sorry.Silicone. Feh!
Bob
On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 11:42 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Joe. I only use 5200 when the fix is “forever.” Anyway, these
Lexan panels are screwed down so I don’t need adhesion from the sealant.
I tend to avoid silicone because it’s so difficult to remove the next
time. In this application, after sealing water out it seems to me the
most useful sealant characteristic would be its UV resistance. If that
means “acrylics,” maybe that’s the direction to look. Do you know what
brand sealants are acrylic?Anybody know what Bomar or other hatch manufacturers recommend?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Check out my article on how to add access through the floorboards:
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com/2008/11/there-is-never-enough-space.htmlBob
On Mon, Dec 17, 2012 at 1:54 PM, Miss Kathleen wrote:
Guess I am going to have to find the blades as they had better not get up
to mishief when bashing to weather!The “fishing line” was a 25mm plastic pipe, just small enough to fit
between the shower floor and ply base.I think my next job will be to make a few more bilge hatches. I envy those
yachts with full access to the bilges.Dennis
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The cutout for the hatch for one thing, but I don’t like spaces I can’t get
to.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 16, 2012 2:29 PM, “pat noordsij” wrote:What did you lose that was so important for you to come up with a
solution? A 3K gold watch or something?– pat
Robert Fine wrote, On 12/16/12 1:26 PM:
As a matter of fact, I added a 6″ round inspection port low and in the
front of the seat so I could get in there. Problem solved!Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 16, 2012 2:24 PM, “Miss Kathleen” wrote:I read with interest how, on installing a hatch in the shower, the number
of folk who dropped the cut-out of the panel behind the shower – never to
be seen again…..This weekend I decided to replace the shower mixer and add a hatch in the
shower. Whilst cutting the hole I lost a few jigsaw blades – never to be
seen again.
I cut the hole, and was extremely proud that I was able to secure the
cut-out before it disappeared.Fortunately I had chosen a large hatch, and was able to work behind the
shower with relative ease. During the replacement of the mixer, and as I
was finishing up, my head knocked the side of the hatch and my spectacles
fell into the void behind the shower!Now was the time to find where “never to be found again” actually is.
Dropped a flashlight into the void, only to find that there was no light
beam in the bilges! The reality is that there is a plywood base under the
shower pan that separates the shower base and the bilge. It is within
that
space that my glasses lay.Tried a vacuum cleaner, but to no avail – just dust. I was now in a panic
as this mysterious void had gobbled up jigsaw blades, and now my glasses!To cut a long story short, I probed with a piece of hose and eventually
hooked the glasses!Much relief.
The hatch is great, and the new mixer works a treat!
Dennis
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As a matter of fact, I added a 6″ round inspection port low and in the
front of the seat so I could get in there. Problem solved!Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 16, 2012 2:24 PM, “Miss Kathleen” wrote:I read with interest how, on installing a hatch in the shower, the number
of folk who dropped the cut-out of the panel behind the shower – never to
be seen again…..This weekend I decided to replace the shower mixer and add a hatch in the
shower. Whilst cutting the hole I lost a few jigsaw blades – never to be
seen again.
I cut the hole, and was extremely proud that I was able to secure the
cut-out before it disappeared.Fortunately I had chosen a large hatch, and was able to work behind the
shower with relative ease. During the replacement of the mixer, and as I
was finishing up, my head knocked the side of the hatch and my spectacles
fell into the void behind the shower!Now was the time to find where “never to be found again” actually is.
Dropped a flashlight into the void, only to find that there was no light
beam in the bilges! The reality is that there is a plywood base under the
shower pan that separates the shower base and the bilge. It is within that
space that my glasses lay.Tried a vacuum cleaner, but to no avail – just dust. I was now in a panic
as this mysterious void had gobbled up jigsaw blades, and now my glasses!To cut a long story short, I probed with a piece of hose and eventually
hooked the glasses!Much relief.
The hatch is great, and the new mixer works a treat!
Dennis
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Hey Rodd,
Are you talking about those lovely Clorox Bottle lights? You could refurb
them with, literally, cut Clorox bottles. I’m thinking of doing that as
soon as I recertify my life raft, install fuel polisher, fix water tanks
and system, etc. etc.Bob
On Sun, Dec 16, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Quote:i would be interested to replace my aging Guest salon lights (4). Please
advise.Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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I’m guessing Irin Ketch has had their email account hijacked…
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 11, 2012 10:43 AM, “Irin Paris” wrote:Just take a chance to meet someone very special for nice chats or more!
http://whaouh.com/www.**facebook.com.jobreport.news1.**php?ephotmailID=6
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Hi Rodd,
Between the engine and v-drive there is essentially no alignment. The
universal joints on the jack shaft take care of that within reason.The more important alignment is the main shaft and the v-drive. That is
done by adjusting the v-drive mounts to make the faces of the coupling
parallel and in line.And with that, in line is the most important. If the two shafts are not in
line, the main shaft end will described a circle making vibration really
evident. The faces can be out of parallel by a few thousandths and the
shaft will flex. The result will be a worn out cutlass bearing.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 11, 2012 12:09 PM, “Rodd Leeds” wrote:Quote:hey Chuck-I am doing a cutlass bearing, shaft check, new stuffing box hose and
repack, etc., and I am curious how to do the alignment of the engine to
v-drive, then v-drive to prop shaft. Any help or photos would be
appreciated.Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214
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Isn’t everything? 🙂
On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 2:29 PM, wrote:
… a matter of opinion then, I suppose.
BILL TICE~in residence ~*I*I*TREEHOUSE *I*I*I*~ Smith Mt. Lake, VA
In a message dated 12/2/2012 2:27:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:but easily rebuilt
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