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Hi Quent,
My compressor and watermaker (yes, but as it turns out, there’s water
everywhere in the US. Fancy that.) are under the floor boards below what
is the area between your sink and fridge. It’s easy to make an access door
to that area with a circular saw and one of those vibrating saws like the
Dremel Multimax or the Bosch one to cut the corners. Frankly, I don’t
understand why Pearson didn’t put more access into the bilge area – I
installed an opening above the stuffing box and along both sides of the
table.See this post:
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com/2008/11/there-is-never-enough-space.htmlThere’s lots of room to put a shelf or two for compressors below the cabin
sole. And the bilge is almost always cooler than the rest of the boat
since the water is almost always cooler than the air.Bob
On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 8:55 AM, wrote:
Quote:Quent,
What about the space under the lower drawer in the galley? There’s quite
a lot of room down there. I put an opening door on the side of the cabinet
to access this space. I stow cookware down there, but if you had access,
it might be a good place for a compressor and condenser.The process of cutting and installing a door down there isn’t all that
difficult. I made my own door from the cutout. Its not that difficult if
you have a table-saw and router.https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/index.php/Interior-Modifications/rcarterinterior/P8180007
Would you be better off blowing the hot air into the bilge and drawing it
in from the cabin?Rich
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Do you mean you removed your mizzen mast, converted it to a boom for your
main giving you a larger mainsail? So your ketch is now a sloop?Bob
On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 11:14 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:We sail the Caribbean and just cannot imagine not having a bimini.
Fortunately, Half Moon’s mizzen is now the boom for the main sail, thereby
giving us shade and lots of room in the cockpit. We love this configuration.________________________________
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Hi Jack and Tor,
With my new sewing machine, I’ve investigated that very issue- YKK now
makes waterproof zippers available at Sailrite. Of course, they’re more
expensive but it does solve that pesky problem with leaking zippers.Bob
On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 7:36 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Jack,A roller furling mizzen sail would probably be as handy as a roller
furing main, with the same performance compromize of a sail with no
roach. That’s a personal judgment call. But it would be ashame to switch
just because your bimini top is in the way.For some reason I cannot fathom, I seem to be the only one among us –
and as far as I’ve seen, the only one in the world – with a bimini that
actually works with an aft cockipit ketch (photos attached). It makes
handling the mizzen sail quick and easy, so I fly mine often. The only
down side is that the zippers leak a little in heavy rain. Ergo I made a
bimini tent fly, which keeps out rain but precludes using the mizzen
sail, so it’s only useful in port.Because I sail in the Caribbean, my bimini top is primarily a sun shade
and the zipper leaks aren’t a huge issue. In the Pacific Northwest you’d
probably want a completely rainproof roof over the cockpit so my
zip-flap bimini design would not be ideal – unless there’s a way to
waterproof the zippers that I don’t know about.Sailboat Rule Number 1: Everything is a compromise.
Reef early,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Jeez, I use the mizzen all the time! I hardly ever use the main. I can’t
imagine not using it. True, no bimini except when stopped…Bob
On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 9:10 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
I’m a little younger than you and we hardly ever raise the mizzen because
its a pain with the bimini up (its always up). I think a roller furling
mizzen is an awesome compromise!-p
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W7PEAOn Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 7:47 PM, calicojack wrote:
Hi Guys:
I’ve got a chance to buy an almost new roller furler that was on the
mizzen of a 42 Brewer ketch. I haven’t had a chance to do any measuringyet
as far as the length of the boom or the luff of the mizzen. The guy is
even
throwing in a very nice sail. Does anybody have a roller furl. system on
the mizzen. Your thoughts on making the swap? Does it make life at 65
easier? I have a helluva time raising & lowering the sail and getting the
sail cover on/off my boat due to the construction of the bimini. I
appreciate any input.
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Well, Tor, I use a mahogany stick so I don’t damage the alternator or thing
I pry on. The belt tensioner screws together like a turnbuckle and the two
saddles rest on the opposite pulleys of the belt. By extending the tool
against the pulleys, you push on the right place on the shafts (effort in
line with load) to tension belt. It’s a lot like those shoe or pants
stretchers except stronger.Bob
On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 9:50 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Rich,Forgive the mechanically challenged among us. How does that Fastenal
belt tensioning tool work? What do you do with it? To tighten an
alternator belt, I’ve always losened the appropriate nuts and jacked the
alternator tighter with a tire iron. Would love to know a better way.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hi Quent,
I have a double pulley on the engine – one for raw water pump, one for
alternator and water pump – I make sure I don’t over-tighten the belts. I
do have a spare water pump from Rich, I think, but don’t want to replace
it, that’s for sure. I also have a 4 belt extension on the crankshaft.
The boat originally had two alternators that were hooked up in parallel
which you can’t do – at least not if you want your batteries to fully
charge. So I went to one and everything’s been fine except until the belt
warms up, the tach doesn’t work so I have to tighten it. Then all is fine
for a few hours. But the point is, a 65 amp alternator will try to dump as
much power into the batteries as possible after a couple of days at
anchor. That’s when the belt is marginal. Two belts would do a better job.The problem I have is how to use the other accessory pulleys on the shaft –
they stick too far out for normal alternators. That’s why I want to see
pictures of how others have done it.Bob
On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 9:46 AM, quent wrote:
Hi Bob-
Rich makes good points. Perhaps there are a couple other considerations.
We have two 100 amp alternators on a W-58. One is in place of the
original with two 1/2″ belts, the other on a bracket on starboard side
originally intended for the refrigeration compressor, also two belts.
My experience is that the capacity of the alternator is less important
than the load. Your 60 amp alternator if maxed out is a pretty big load
for one belt. The max we see is about 150 amps split between two
alternators. This only happens for a short time, but we still have to
adjust the belts infrequently.
There is a tradeoff between belt contact area and belt tension so for the
same load, a single belt will have to be tighter than two belts. The
problem is that the belt also drives the water pump and if you make it too
tight, the excessive side loading might damage the pump.
For dual belts, you will need a double sheave water pump pulley. You can
either buy one from Westerbeke ($$$!) or have a sheave added from another
pulley by a machine shop.
Quent
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Thanks, Rich, for all the info – the tensioning tool will be a big help.
I’d like to know how you mounted a bigger alternator so you could use the
two belts and still have that ridiculously expensive water pump on its own
belt.I’ll look into the truck belts – the regular and ‘gold’ gateway belts don’t
last that long as you’ve found out.Once again, thanks!
Bob
On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 8:47 AM, wrote:
Quote:Bob,
I assume that you have the proper belt size for your pulley arrangement.
A single belt should be able to handle a 60A alternator. You might check
to see that you are using a heavy-duty truck belt. These stretch less than
normal belts. Any good automotive parts store can special order these.You can expect any belt to stretch when first installed. You should
retention after 30 minutes of initial use.Once a belt has burnished, it should be replaced. Avoid running the
engine when the belts are slipping if possible. Reducing engine RPM until
you can fix the problem usually saves the belt.Here’s a link to a belt tensioning tool. I find this to be the best way
to tension my belts.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0454182I have dual-belts on my installation but a much larger alternator. I
still must retention my belts every now and then. The tool above makes it
easy.Rich
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Jack, you have a slip for a night here gratis while we try to fix your
problem. I’m leaving Sunday to get out for memorial day.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Aug 28, 2012 12:14 PM, “” wrote:Quote:Jack – I am interested in those sails you mentioned. Can you pass my
number off to him and have him get in touch with me or do you have a number
for him? My number is 252-723-7114. Thanks, and good luck with the
problem.Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone
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Hi Jack,
I’m at Avalon on the west branch. It’s the first marina on the left.
There may be a charge for the night, but it will be reasonable.
I’m interested in sails, especially jib.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Aug 27, 2012 9:32 PM, “Jack P Clarke” wrote:Hi everyone,
My engine is a Perkins Prima M60. It was installed by the PO, not sure
when.
The raw water comes in with good flow from the through hull to the
strainer, into the V drive, out the V drive, into the trans cooler, out of
the trans cooler to the raw water pump and into the heat exchanger. The way
the hoses are set up coming out of the trans cooler, there is two of them
connected by a small pipe, this is just to route them to the raw water
pump. I’ve replaced both of them thinking that it was hose fatigue, and
they still collapse. This trans cooler is about 8 inches long with double
tube chambers that are about 1 1/2 inches wide each. They are capped off
at each end with a single flanged piece to connect the hoses onto. I’ve
ran a small round file through the holes that are accessible, but that is
only about 25% of the cooling tubes, maybe. First chance that I get, I’m
going to bi-pass the trans cooler without engaging the transmission just to
see if the flow increases and the hoses collapse.Bob, that sounds great. What marina are you at in Stamford? My new
American cell phone number is 508-280-2486′By the way, a guy came up to me at the marina in Sandwich MA and asked if
Xanadu was a 424. He said that a friend of his was storing a bunch of
things from a 424 at his house for a friend and he got sick. Eventually
the guy passes away and the boat gets sold minus the stuff in storage. He
said he has a complete set of sails for a 424 ketch in good shape for a
really good price. I wasn’t interested, but I told him to contact the web
site and see if there was any interest.Thanks
Jack Clarke
Xanadu IV
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Ok, Jack, let me know – I may be able to get you a slip for a night while
we fix it.Bob
On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 2:51 PM, Jack P Clarke wrote:
The problems that I’m having are;
1/ white smoke like steam coming out the exhaust
2/ the hoses coming from the transmission cooler to the raw water pump
are collapsing
3/ I’m loosing coolant from the heat exchangerI’ve had different people tell me an assortment of different things that
could be the problem. I think that that transmission cooler is clogged.
It’s much like the tube in the heat exchanger, only smaller. You can only
access about 25% of the tubes. I’ve tried flushing it with Salt-away and
it helped a bit. I think that it needs to be soaked in something
stronger. Can the transmission cooler be bi-passed without any ill
effects?Bob, I’m in Marion MA today and will be leaving tomorrow, weather
permitting, and most likely head for Pt. Judith and then west again after
that. This whole area is new to me, but I don’t like to get too far off of
the main routes. I could probably be in Stamford by Thursday or Friday.Thanks everyone
Jack Clarke
Xanadu IVPlease keep any suggestions coming
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I can take a look at it if you’re in Stamford.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Aug 27, 2012 5:39 AM, “Jack P Clarke” wrote:Can anyone in the group recommend a good reasonable mechanic that I can get
to look at my Perkins engine? Right now I’m in Sandwich MA and going
through the CC Canal today. I’ll be in the west MA, RI & CN area this
week and on to the Long Island area after that.
I’m having overheating issues and I think that the repair may be beyond my
limited skills level. My plan is to carry on down to the Bahamas, so I
have to get this addressed ASAP. Any help or information will much
appreciated. Also, my Internet will be limited, so I might take longer
than normal to get back to you.Thanks
Jack Clarke
Xanadu IV
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DO NOT FOLLOW LINK UNLESS YOU ABSOLUTELY KNOW IT’S SAFE.
Bob
On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 6:44 PM, wrote:
http://ilhasat.com.br/css.php?fedecydave=75&bezevivobi=77
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Run it through the wire guides is easiest and you can use the old wire to
pull the new.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jul 24, 2012 8:38 AM, “Rodd Leeds” wrote:Thanks all — sounds like it’s time to replace the entire run forward from
the switch at the panel. Quent, I did check for chafe at the bow pulpit,
and there was none– that short run from the terminal block in the anchor
locker to the light itself was good. The problem lies in the long run up
from the panel (of course!!). Now I need to go back and measure length I
need before ordering from Genuinedealz. I imagine a 12ga wire should do
it? (bulb is 25 watt for the Aqua Sig series 40).I figure it is probably easier to run the wires down and through the bilge
then up to the water tank area then on up to the anchor locker. I can
follow the path I used to run my 00 cable to my windlass!Rodd Leeds
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Probably the best solution is to run a new wire from the panel on – some of
the wires in the Pearson are plain copper and need to be replaced with
tinned wire.Bob
On Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 5:27 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:If remember on mine the bow light wire leaves the dist. Panel and runs
along the stb wire way all the way to the bow before it crosses over to the
port side inside the aft portion of the anchor locker.
Alan
Unabated
Sent from my Verizon Wireless mobile phone
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If you’re looking for pointing ability, make sure your clew is as low as
possible, just above the lifelines, so that you can trim it in fairly
tightly.Bob
On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Seawater wrote:
I am having a new jib made for Madness by Haarstick.
Any experience you may have to share would be appreciated.
My priorities are:
Sailing more and motoring less, including to windward and lighter airs
Having a single headsail (no sail changes)
No deck sweepers, but since my profurl roller is quite high, this is not
likely to be an issueMy big questions are:
How big? 135? 145? I would like to point higher, and doug at haarstick
says the 145 might helpHow high a clew?
Should I be coordinating with the sailmaker regarding headstay tension?
(that one is for you Rich, I remember you said that tension is the secret
to upwind work. Ice boat sails are dialed in for a lot of sag, and are
always going upwind, so maybe the cut of the sail can help compensate for
my lack of hydraulic tensioner)BTW – I tend to reef by dropping the main while on a reach, and by reefing
the main on a close haul. Only after the main and mizzen are down do I roll
in part of the jib.Walter
Walter
SV Madness
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