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There should be weep holes on the upper and lower runners. Make sure you
keep them clear and water won’t sit there.Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 14, 2010 11:43 AM, “John Stevenson” <> wrote:I had the same deck rot problem as Rich and fixed in the same manner. I
also added the weather striping described by Phillipe (got the idea fromHal
Sutphen). At the same time I removed the hatch and re-bedded all of the
runner supports. No leaks for nearly 8 years. Started to get some leaks in
2009 and did a quick fix (just re-bedded the teak piece at the aft end of
the hatch). Started to leak again this fall. So it looks like I have
another winter project to once again remove the hatch and re-bedeverything,
then replace the 9 year old weather striping.
Most of leaks in this hatch come from its placement at the side of thecoach
roof. The crown of the coach roof means water collects on the inboard side
of the hatch and then has plenty of time to find any gaps in the beddingor
Quote:(in a heavy downpour) pour over the inboard runner and collect in the trim
pieces and headliner. The weather striping prevents the later leak from
happening.On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 10:12 AM, <> wrote:
Quote:see
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/deckRot/Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Pat,
When I replaced my charger/inverted I found the same thing. The wiring was
good for 1 leg of a 50 amp service. My main breaker is 30 amp, tho. I had to
replace all the wiring from the plug on.If you check the plug you may find the wires don’t fit properly as I did.
Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 14, 2010 4:13 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <>
wrote:Went down and pulled out the bad AC Main breaker wire and now I’m a tad
perplexed. I have a 30amp shore cord and always thought the boat was wired
for 30amps. My shore power plug on the boat appear to have been replaced
after manufacturing, but all my panels and breakers are Marinetics and I
assume all original original.My AC Main breaker was a 50amp breaker and I have other breakers in the AC
panel that are labeled as 30Amp.Was the P424 wired for 50amps originally?
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 3:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Thanks John, I also have the Marinetics panel (Hull from 1981).
On a more fun note, we had a nice trip this weekend to Blake Island in
Puget Sound. On the way home we sailed in 20kts of breeze with gusts tothe
mid 20’s. All downwind or beam reach under jib alone with following seas
and
current. It was nice to do 6+ kts with ocassional 7kts for our nice short
2
hour jaunt.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 7:11 AM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
Patrick,
I haven’t replaced that breaker, but I’ve replaced others (to change the
amperage) and Blue Seas breakers fit those other slots. I’ve also used
Blue
Seas meter to replace a dead AC Ammeter and add one for my SSB. So I
would
go with the Blue Seas. I have a Marinetics panel (The Blue Seas of the
70s), Pearson may have changed to something else before the end of the
P424
run.On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Has anyone replaced any the AC Main breaker (mine is fried)? I’m
curious
if
the Blue Sea Systems 30Amp A Series double toggles are a match to the
panel.
http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19<http://bluesea.com/category/3/11/productline/overview/19>Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Moreover, Whoosh looks better than the day it left the factory. And their
creative main traveler system is both a traveler, boom brake, and preventer
and vang all in one (or two) tackles. Downside was the tackles crossed the
side decks. Upside, safe, easy to manage from the cockpit, and hugely
strong.I just hope they’re alright. They are, to me, the epitome of graciousness
associated with sailing and yachting, like the Hiscocks and Pardeys and
Fatty Goodlander.Bob
On Fri, Dec 10, 2010 at 9:21 AM, Elaine Patton <>wrote:
Quote:Whoosh is all tricked out with all the bells and whistles that’s for sure!!— On Fri, 12/10/10, quent <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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Wow! Thanks! I hope you can find the real W58. I heard it was a Mazda engine
but have had no luck finding out which. If its actually a leyland engine
that would explain it.Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 9, 2010 10:33 AM, “Seawater” wrote:I am not sure that anyone other than me cares, but:
Another source for parts for the W60:
http://www.kingcart.com/kipmotor/frontpage=Taxi
I did some research on the W60, and rumors that the engine is a london
taxicab motor appear to be true. The engine is sometimes called a leyland
2.5, and sometimes called a BMC 2.5 and sometimes called an Austin 2.5. The
engine was typical of the Carbody FX4D, the black london taxi. The FX4 had
the 2.2 L engine from the same family.The engines have some small value to the few taxi owners in the states, as
the taxi motors have often seem many rebuilds and over 1 million miles. The
guy at kip motors, Bill, did not know that the W58 was the same engine. We
are double checking some detailed specs to make sure; I will post if we are
contradicted.Still nursing mine along.
Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1_______________________________________________
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Hi Elaine,
How do you identify its Whoosh? She had her name on her and didn’t use her
main traveller.Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 9, 2010 8:56 AM, “Elaine Patton” <> wrote:It’s Whoosh. I hope Jack and Pat are ok. I never thought that they would
stop sailing. They are really nice people.
Quote:Elaine and Ted
Bel Esprit II— On Thu, 12/9/10, Robert Fine <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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If they get it, I’m selling mine and getting a new boat!
Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Dec 9, 2010 7:29 AM, “Alan” <> wrote:Quote:Price is a little high! 189,309.00 US$
alan— On Thu, 12/9/10, Robert Fine <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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Ooops, never mind. It might be Miss Kathleen.
Bob
On Thu, Dec 9, 2010 at 6:56 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Don’t bother, it’s Whoosh. I can tell from the main boom rigging, which
I’d like to emulate someday. Actually, I’d like to emulate Jack and Pat
someday.Bob
On Thu, Dec 9, 2010 at 3:25 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:No identifying marks that I can see, i’ll ping the broker.
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1979/Pearson-424-ketch-2291997/Australia<http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1979/Pearson-424-ketch-2291997/Australia
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Don’t bother, it’s Whoosh. I can tell from the main boom rigging, which
I’d like to emulate someday. Actually, I’d like to emulate Jack and Pat
someday.Bob
On Thu, Dec 9, 2010 at 3:25 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:No identifying marks that I can see, i’ll ping the broker.
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1979/Pearson-424-ketch-2291997/Australia<http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1979/Pearson-424-ketch-2291997/Australia
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I knew they existed but never knew the name of the part.
Thanks!
Bob
On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 9:25 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
Quote:What is a kellum?…. This is a kellum:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hubbell-Kellems-Grip-07401010-NPT-1-2-500-625-dia_W0QQitemZ260652545766QQcategoryZ26213QQcmdZViewItemOn 12/7/2010 8:44 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:I found no great way to support the wires wen I did my rewire. The
original
wiring was primary wire (individual wires), tied in a knot with a glob of
sealant where it exited the mast. The knot provided wire support. I went
with Blue Sea cable clams to support and protect the wire where it exited
the mast. I then P-clipped the wires on the outside of the mast. I was
refinishing my spars at the same time and if I had t to do over I would
have
cut the masthead off and put in a kellum to support the wires from the
masthead.Example of before : http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4617533475/
After: http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4747421038/I’m sure it’s going to last long enough till the next electronics upgrade
will be needed.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Dec 7, 2010 at 7:24 PM, Rich Carter<>
wrote:Adam,
Quote:A ground loop within the mast is of no concern since the wires are laced
together and shielded. A problem might arise if there is a ground loop
from
your breaker panel to the base of the mast as might occur if some wires
are
fed through different harnesses on the way to the mast. This might
generate
a small magnetic field and cause compass errors, though I’d frankly be
surprised if you could measure any deflection. Of greater concern is
electrical noise that might get generated and show up as noise on your
electronic equipment. This might happen if you operate a strobe light or
horn. The horn in particular could cause problems in anything from your
depthsounder to your autopilot since it consumes a lot of current and is
electrically noisy.Ground loops are hard to avoid on a boat since much of the equipment gets
grounded together through interface cables or chassis grounds. Some
equipment like GPS provide optical isolation in the interface for this
reason, but much of the stuff is not as robust. I suggest avoiding ground
loops where possible. Unless there is some reason to tie grounds
together
at the base of your mast you are better off leaving them isolated.Rich
Original Message
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I think its a 20 LH 13 but I’m not sure of the pitch. It is definitely 20
inch diameter and left-handed.Oh, and 3 blades.
Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Nov 18, 2010 8:36 AM, “emeraldtide” <> wrote:I am in the process of buying a 1979 Pearson with the original Westerbeke
engine. It has a folding prop. We want to replace it with a non-folding
prop. Does anyone know what kind of prop we need to find?
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I can vouch for that!
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Nov 17, 2010 1:00 PM, “Lee Yonkers” <> wrote:Dan, I am so sorry to be so late in responding to your question.
I dug out my records and this is what Mack Sails charged:
1. Pull and prep mast: $1,700
2. Paint spars: $4,000
3. Upper tangs replaced: $250What the invoice doesn’t list was all of the small and not so small things
they
Quote:did to make the job top notch. The paint job is incredible.Lee
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That’s the way I read it although it’s inland rules. To be honest, I carry
both the flares and flag. The SOS light better be a pretty powerful,
self-contained unit if you’re in trouble.Remember, the USCG is minimum requirements. I carry the SOLAS flare set.
Bob
On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 9:55 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
Good link. Thanks.
Does the following mean that flares are no longer required if you have a
flag and a night signaling device?*Minimum of three day-use and three night-use or three day/night
combination pyrotechnic devices. Non-pyrotechnic substitutes: 1 orange flag
(day-use) and 1 electric S-O-S signal light (night-use)*Pete
On 11/16/2010 3:43 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
http://www.usps.org/national/vsc/conductvsc_files/USCGMinReq.pdf
<http://www.usps.org/national/vsc/conductvsc_files/USCGMinReq.pdf>-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 2:32 AM, Lee Yonkers<> wrote:
Yesterday a fellow on the adjacent dock told me we are no longer required
to
have a ship’s bell.Is this true? If so what, if any thing, replaces the bell?
Lee
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Well, there you have it. No bell. But if you did have one, it should be an
8″ bell, not a 6″ one (that was the requirement for our size vessel).Having sailed in some serious fog, though, I can tell you I’ve never heard a
ship’s bell. Air horns, breath powered or electronic horns, etc., etc. but
never bells. I’ve often wondered about that as they sound too similar to
buoys. But I guess, before modern sound making technology there were only
bells.I like my Standard radio that does all the sound making for me.
It’s nice to know the USCG is keeping up.
Bob
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Yup, I’m sure. I’ve done bottom 3 times now. Bottom paint shouldn’t be
slathered on too thickly.Bob
I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Nov 10, 2010 12:11 PM, “Joseph Steiner” <> wrote:Robert,
Are you sure? …..my boatyard had me order 4 gal to do 2 coats and a 3rdat
Quote:the waterline. It’s a hard coat..Petitt Trinidad SR.Joe,
Half Moon________________________________
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Hi Dan,
For very thin and semi-hard to hard bottom paint, 1.5 gallons is more than
enough including two coats over the bottom and 3+ on leading edges and
around the water line. For softer ablative paints, 2 gallons applied
properly (not slopped on thick) will do the job as well. You may have a
little bit left over.If you’re going to go with one ‘alarm’ coat and then the working coats, one
gallon of white or black thinned will do the coverage, then apply the final
color (2 gal) as normal.Bob
On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 9:41 AM, kalinowski <>wrote:
As my first haulout time with Lady Leanne approaches, I now have to plan
for the bottom paint purchase. Does anyone know how many square feet the
424 has below the water line so that I can start shaking the piggy bank?Mahalo
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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