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  • in reply to: Dry V-Drive #74939
    madsailor
    Moderator

    That’s the one!

    Thanks!

    Bob

    —
    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: Dry V-Drive #74937
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hi Lee,

    There can be three transmissions on a Pearson installed engine. The easiest
    to identify is the Hurth – it has a cubish ribbed case and is the only
    transmission that looks like that.

    Another one is the Velvet Glide, like what I have, which has a dipstick on
    the left side (facing the back of the engine towards the jack shaft. The
    shift lever is vertical above the dip stick.

    The last one I’ve forgotten the manufacturer for, but I can find out by
    digging through manuals I have here – it has a shift lever that is
    horizontal on the top of the transmission.

    The first two, Hurth and Velvet Drive can be left in neutral to freewheel.
    The Hurth can also be left in reverse to lock the prop (never forward). The
    Velvet Drive can be left in neutral or forward to freewheel but never
    reverse. The last one is not supposed to freewheel and was installed with a
    shaft break I think, or wasn’t.

    Your V-drive is a Walters V-Drive and if it’s original it’s a model 20. If
    it’s been replaced it would have been a 26 like Rich’s.

    There are others who can amplify this response…

    Bob

    On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 8:40 PM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:

    One of the many problems I’ve had with Morning Glory is the fact that I
    don’t know what kind of V-drive and transmission I have. The V-drive’s data
    plate is missing and I don’t know enough about transmissions to make an
    educated guess. I’ve asked some locals and I get different answers. If
    anyone has a surefire way to ID the tyranny I sure wold appreciate hearing
    about.

    Lee

    —

    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: Dry V-Drive #74932
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hi Lee,

    No, I didn’t have the time to flush the transmission twice to remove the
    ATF. So that still has Dextron III in it. But all the manuals say all
    three (three manuals) they can use 30 wt oil. So currently it’s in my
    engine (naturally) and my v-drive.

    For the v-drive, though, 90 wt is much quieter. There’s a typical gear
    whine with 30 wt. So I guess it’s a matter of choice. But the idea of only
    one oil aboard is really appealing.

    You need to be sure you have a Velvet Drive before dumping 30 wt into it.
    The other ones don’t use it, especially the Hurth.

    Bob

    On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 8:44 AM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:

    Bob, you wrote, “. . . I could use it for the engine, transmission and
    vdrive.” The question is, do you use it for all three apps or are you just
    contemplating using it?

    Lee

    —
    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: Dry V-Drive #74927
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Not at all – Rotella 30 wt heavy duty is as basic an oil as you can find.
    The nice thing is that I could use it for the engine, transmission and
    vdrive. I wonder if someone thought about that?

    Bob

    On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 11:27 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:

    Walter not only recommends 30W oil, they are very insistent that it is
    non-detergent oil as well. Tricky to find…

    Pete

    —

    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: Dry V-Drive #74924
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Interestingly enough, I replaced my 90 wt gear lube with 30 wt oil per
    manufacturer’s manual and although the thing whines now, it runs fine and
    cool and doesn’t leak…

    I guess the next time I’ll put 90 wt back in.

    Bob

    —
    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: Dry V-Drive #74921
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Thanks, Rich. I think my drive was rebuilt when my engine was changed some
    1000 hours ago (I’ve put 500 hours on it in the last three years. Yikes!)

    Anyway, it seems to be good for now but when it starts spitting parts out,
    I’ll rethink the whole thing.

    Bob

    On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 5:08 PM, Rich Carter <> wrote:

    Quote:
    Bob
    There is no cheap and easy way out of this. There is no logic in sending a
    v-drive in for an expensive rebuild if the cases are shot. You can’t get
    new cases. Cleaning the cooling jacket sufficiently to apply a marine-tex
    patch is a terrible job and there are no guarantees. I had the same
    decision to make and I tried the patch method and I rebuilt the thing
    myself. I ended up replacing it however about 4 years later because the
    RV-20 was not suitable for my new engine. The gear reduction was wrong. I
    never trusted the patch anyway.

    If you can budget the cost of a new V-drive, that’s the way to go. You’ll
    get at least 20 years of worry-free operation. Its not a drop-in and its
    expensive. If you follow my notes and are reasonably handy, the
    replacement
    is a stright-forward but tedious job. If you hire it out to have a yard do
    it, I’d expect a bill for something like 20 to 30 hours of labor (times
    their billing rate). Bolting steel angle iron to the existing V-drive pan
    with nuts welded to the bottom worked very well for me.

    Rich

    Quote:

    Original Message


    <.. snip>

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    in reply to: Dry V-Drive #74920
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Sometimes it is, sometimes it’s two curved faces like a section of a ball
    with nubs around the perimeter that engage. Mostly you’ll find those on
    front wheel drive cars.

    Bob

    On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 4:56 PM, Rich Carter <> wrote:

    Quote:
    Isn’t a CV joint a pair of coupled universals?
    Rich

    Quote:

    Original Message


    <.. snip>

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    in reply to: P424’s – V-drive parts #74915
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Thanks, Rich, that explains your last. Never mind my question.

    Best regards,

    Bob

    —
    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: Dry V-Drive #74914
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Rich,

    I’m wondering what you’re recommending if not a rebuild and not a
    replacement drive? Whether you have Walters do it or your friendly
    mechanic, it still needs to be done or you have to get the replacement unit
    and change the mountings to match. Or maybe I didn’t thoroughly understand
    your response (which could easily be the case).

    Bob

    —
    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: Dry V-Drive #74907
    madsailor
    Moderator

    I have never taken mine apart, but you can try two things – one, put heavier
    oil in the drive. They all take 30 weight oil, but mine had 90 weight gear
    oil when I changed it.

    A u-joint that squeaks generally means that one or more of the needle
    bearings have gone bad. If the internal one doesn’t use needle bearings but
    uses sleeve bearings then one of those could be going bad. In either case,
    at least the u-joint will need rebuilding/replacing.

    You may need to take it apart to see what’s going on, or send it back to
    Walter for another rebuild.

    In fact, you could ask them directly – somewhere in this list is a whole
    thread with the head of Walter…

    Bob

    —
    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: tiller pilots & windvanes #74899
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hi Tor,

    I was discussing that with my friend as we came down the coast – I think it
    would be unwise to use it unless it was an emergency just for that reason.
    Under sail, it would be fine.

    Thanks for the thought, and I’m anxious to read your article!

    Bob

    —
    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: Where is your waste holding tanks ? #74885
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Absolutely classic. I wonder if it’ll fit on deck…

    On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 10:16 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:

    LOL. While you are at it, consider the following for your toilet paper to
    complete the attraction:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iIZpnBpTfU

    Pete

    —
    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: Where is your waste holding tanks ? #74883
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Unbelievably, yes, it can – it’s like a waterpark ride for poo.

    Bob

    On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 8:45 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:

    Hey Rube, can the poop really turn all those corners?

    Pete

    —

    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: Where is your waste holding tanks ? #74877
    madsailor
    Moderator

    I have a 28 gallon tank in the bilge behind the ballast. Pictures if you
    want them on
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com/2009/08/finishing-projects-holding-tank.html.

    Cheers!

    Bob

    On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 11:18 AM, svtopaz <> wrote:

    Where have people placed their holding tank? I am looking to put one in
    this winter and want ideas as to where to put it. I have an electric sans
    in the salon area (middle cabin sole).

    Barbara

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    —
    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: tiller pilots & windvanes #74875
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Thanks John! I’m less than 2 nm away! I wonder how long they’ll be there –
    it’s crappy today (warm, but crappy). Maybe I’ll catch up tomorrow!

    All the best – sorry you’re in the cold!

    Bob

    —
    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Viewing 15 posts - 781 through 795 (of 1,627 total)