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Hi Rich,
Honda makes a 3000 watt generator as well for a premium but which is not
much larger than the 2000.The only problem I see with running the 2000 near it’s peak power is that
it’s noisy running full throttle. Other than that, you’re golden.Also, remember it’s an alternator/inverter combination so there will be some
equipment that just won’t run with it – some microwaves I’ve heard, and some
older appliances like refrigerators, ACs, and so forth. I’ve not had a
problem, but I use it to charge batteries and heat water, all mostly
resistive loads.I am telling you this because I don’t want you to be disappointed with the
performance/noise levels.All the best,
Bob
On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 9:42 AM, wrote:
We’ve exchanged lots of email about generators over the past few months.
I’ve decided to purchase a Honda EU2000i. I’ll pick it up later today.I plan to use the generator for three purposes. I’ll use it on the boat
during the summer months when the boat is in the water. I’m planning to
modify my cockpit table to stow the generator. I have no mizzen mast so
there should be room. We have a camper that we occasionally use. I’ll bring
it with us when camping for rare occasions when we don’t have shore power.
Lastly, it will power my mother’s condo when she loses power. It will run
here furnace, one refrigerator, a small TV and a few lights.Like every other project it seems, in the process of making a decision I’ve
ended up learning a lot more about generators then I ever thought I’d need
to know. I’d like the generator to power the 13,000 BTU air conditioner in
our camper. The Honda doesn’t have enough peak power capacity to start a
typical AC unit of this size however. I found references to a hard-start kit
for RV generators and ordered it for our unit. Research indicates that if I
modify the AC unit with one of these inexpensive gizmos, the 2kw generator
will run my AC unit. The generator is still marginal but It occurs to me
that folks down in the tropics who have installed an AC unit on their 424
may benefit from the same mod. Here’s a link to a discussion on the subject.http://www.modmyrv.com/2009/05/27/rv-air-conditioner-hard-start-capacitor
Regards
Rich_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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Brown exterior or topside paint. Unless your teak is in great condition.
Mine’s all chewed up.Someone here replaced it all with stainless steel.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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Hi John,
I removed both the veneered plywood (1/4″) plus the underlayment (1/2″) plus the 3/4″ exterior ply all at one time. I then removed 1/2″ around the perimeter of the top layers and glued and tacked a teak frame to fit. Then I added the latches. It was much easier that way – After removing the 1/2″ for the frame, I ran 1 blade thickness off a long side and a short side of the 3/4″ layer so it would fit back in the hole properly.
The things you're calling 2 x 4s are actually 2 x 3 douglas fir. You can purchase them at any lumber yard except Home Depot or Lowes. I got mine in a yard in Connecticut. Make sure you get douglas fir because it is rot resistant which white pine is not.
Bob
On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 5:05 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
A year or so ago, Bob Fine posted pictures of his project to add hatches in the cabin sole and gain access to some of the space under the sole for storage. After a year or so of procrastination on my part, I've finally started a similar project. I'm documenting the progress on my website at http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeStorage.htm#Under_Cabin_Sole, but I will summarize that progress in this email.
Like Bob, I was reluctant to trust my woodworking skills to perform the cutting of the cabin sole. I hired a local yard (Deaton's in Oriental, NC) to make the cutouts. I'm glad I did as what we encountered was a little different than I expected after viewing Bob's pictures and descriptions. It goes to the fact that probably no two 424s are the same, even if they have consecutive hull numbers.
I knew that the Sarah's cabin sole is made up of two layers of plywood. The top layer is 1/2″ plywood with the Teak and Holly veneer. The lower layer or sub-floor is 3/4″ plywood. The top layer appears to be marine grade plywood and the lower layer appears to be exterior grade plywood.
I assumed that the two layers had been laminated together and all that was necessary to remove a cutout was to remove any plugged screws in the flooring. Not so on Sarah. The two layers are secured together by the plugged screws, but the bottom layer is secured to the longitudinal and cross-member supports for the sole by a separate set of screws that are not accessible until the top plywood layer has been removed. This added a lot of labor to making the cutouts that I did not anticipate, but at least everything came out clean.
One difference between Sarah (hull nr 2) and most of the other 424s is the location of the shower sump tank. On Sarah the tank was glassed to the top of the keel under the cabin sole aft of the mast step – in that area under the sole that is almost inaccessible, and actually inaccessible by a wide-body like myself. I had bypassed this tank years ago and one of the benefits I hoped to achieve with the hatches under the table was to be able to remove that tank. With access to the tank I found removing it to be a problem. It is securely glassed to the top to the keel. I tried to break it free without success, but I did not want to break it into fragments as I don't have a grinder to remove those fragments. So for now the tank has been left in place. I may adapt it to a storage locker or borrow/rent/buy a grinder and finally remove it.
Now I am working on modifying the cutouts to become hatches and adding cleat stock to the cutouts to support the hatches. It appears to me that Pearson used 2×4 lumber and ripped it down to 2×3 for the longitudinal and cross-wise supports under the cabin sole. I will attempt to use 2×2 dimension lumber as my cleat stock.More to follow.
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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I've replaced both my oil low pressure switch and sender unit and gauge with standard units from Stewart Warner – go to an autoparts store and get a new unit for $20 or less. I think the original Westerbeke gauges are VDO. That means the senders are also. But they are so standard that you'll have no problem getting a replacement. Even if you have to replace the gauge, it's only another $30. So for all that, it's less than Torrensen.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Monday when the weather is warmer and the winds are out of the SE, I'll be leaving Key West 🙁 for Tampa. Lots of little cricks and mangroves to visit on the way, though.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Don,
You didn't hurt the forum, but you might have killed the Internet…
🙂
Bob
On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 10:39 PM, Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I sent out a replay about four of five day ago. No More Postings after that. DID I KILL THE FORUM WITH MY BS??????
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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If your fuel tank is full or at least above the level of the engine (in mine, that would be about 1/4 full) it will run once started without 12v. The primary fuel pump will draw a suction, but not a big one. As long as it has a positive head it will run.
If you have an electric before the lift pump then the previous owner probably had trouble with the lift pump unless you put it there. If you're going to replace the lift pump, I'd put the electric pump in a bypass and switch it so that it doesn't need to run all the time.
Bob
On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 10:26 PM, Adam < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Thanks for your replies. I have a 12 volt electric fuel pump in place before the lift pump on the engine. I was told ( obviously inaccurately) that the fuel lift pump had to be in place for the engine to work.
I am sending the high dollar pump back, and have located the same pump for less than 1/4 the price!! I will see if it will align up existing pump. It would be nice to know the diesel would continue to run if the electric pump failed.
Adam
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Bob Fine
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
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There is no bearing through the hull. There is a packing gland or dripless packing and the tube in the hull seems a little tight, but there shouldn't be anything in it except shaft.
Bob
On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 9:05 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I'm helping out Jack with something, he's on SSB only right now. He thinks he has a bearing where his shaft exits the hull. I definitely did not have one when I replaced my shaft this winter.
Does anyone have a bearing at the hull exit?
Thanks,
-p—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
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Hi Adam,
If by lift pump you mean the pump that primes the high pressure pump you can use an automotive 12v pump and just plumb it the best way you can. If it's a mechanical pump on the W60, just bypass it with the electric one that's energized with the ignition key.
Cost: $50. Maybe less at Auto Zone or someplace like that.
Bob
On Sun, Feb 21, 2010 at 11:42 PM, Adam < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I ordered a fuel lift pump from a local dealer for my Westerbeke 60, and after 3 months it finally came in. Its part no was one number off, and the position of the fuel lines was different.
Has anyone ordered or installed a fuel lift pump and have any advice?
Thanks,
Adam
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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In the Bahamas and Caribbean, you can use it to collect rainwater for the water tanks…
Bob
On Fri, Feb 19, 2010 at 9:03 AM, Jack P Clarke wrote:
Quote:I have the same set up as Alan, only I put mine on. It works great. The only down fall is that acts as an eaves trough during heavy rain.
Jack Clarke
XanaduOn Fri, Feb 19, 2010 at 1:02 AM, Patrick Walters wrote:
Quote:Wow Alan, that's pure genius!—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comFrom: “Alan”
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 6:13 PM
To: ()
Subject: Re: mizzen roller furlI have a stack pack on mine that the PO put on. I also put the zipper on a line attached to both ends of the boom with a 2 small blocks. it works like the old time clothes lines. I can stand at one end and pull the zipper all the way back or forward.s
Alan— On Thu, 2/18/10, calicojack wrote:
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Hey Tor and Alan (and everyone else),
The first afternoon after I purchased Pelican sailing from Noank, CT to City
Island, NY with beam winds of about 20kts and with a dirty bottom, shot
sails, inexperienced crew and 3-5 foot chop she was traveling at 6.5 – 7 kts
SOG with no staysail.Fast forward two and a half years. The other day sailing from Newfound
Harbor at Big Pine Key to Stock Island (just east of Key West) I had 10 to
20 on the beam, 120% jib, staysail, main and mizzen, full fuel and water
tanks, dragging a dinghy and with the shaft generator running charging
batteries and powering everything else I was going a steady 7 knots with
touches of 8+ SOG in gusts.I’ve found the shaft generator takes about .6 knots.
Never doubt the wisdom of the purchase of vessel you have. See attached
photo. And if you’re near Key West let me know!Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine_______________________________________________
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Hi Linus,
Here's the thing – if you wait until you have absolutely everything you think you need or want you'll never go. If you want to cross the Atlantic or Pacific you need different (read that 'more') gear than if you're cruising down to the Keys or the Bahamas, or even Bermuda.
Don't get me wrong – a well found yacht is a thing of beauty and a joy to behold, but if you've seen what makes these journeys you would be appalled.
Basically, all you need is a decent engine you can trust (and by engine, I mean drive train), decent sails (the better, the better of course) and rigging, and what I consider SOLAS safety gear such as a life raft (certified), bare stainless lifelines, SOLAS flares, safety harness and lifevest, a case of beer and a bag of rice. And charts. I don't care if you have a chartplotter. You must have up-to-date charts and know how to read them and know where you are on them.
If you're coastal cruising, expect to motor more than you like. If you're crossing an ocean, expect to wallow more than you like or be terrified more than you like.
If, like my hero, Tor, you can get a bevy of sailing beauties, that's great. But you should be able to manage the boat alone. The ketches are extremely manageable. I expect the sloop is, too, but on the ketch I hardly ever use the mainsail (I have a staysail).
For longer term cruising, you should have clean water tanks and fuel tank. You should have some way of making electricity that doesn't include the engine, even if it can't produce all the power you need, it should produce enough to run your radio and instruments minimally.
Most of the safety on your ship is due entirely to you – how you run her (do you leave lines loose about or coiled neatly but so they can be run quickly if necessary?) Do you have a plan for picking up a mooring on your own? It's trickier than you think especially if there's no bridle. These sorts of things and your attitude will get you farther safer than any items you can bring along.
I don't know the condition of Navasana, or what your long term cruising goals are, but as soon as you possibly can, take her out. Pound her in a seaway to see what she does. Learn to use the throttle when in narrow confines to turn her. There are a million mistakes for you to make, and you'll make most of them. Don't worry. Your 424 is forgiving and strong and she'll get you home.
As I am fond of saying (and Tor will back me up): Good judgment comes from experience; experience comes from bad judgment.
Hope to see you on my way back north this spring!
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I'd like to add a Honda Eu2000i generator. Very economical, will charge batteries or heat the water…
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Mine’s on the aft bulkhead on the port side over the foot of the bunk in the
aft cabin. It’s a self-adhesive transparency. The only key to having one
mounted is that it has to be easily visible, affixed to the boat in such a
manner that removal would destroy it.Bob
On Wed, Feb 10, 2010 at 9:48 PM, sumocean wrote:
OK I now have my documentation numbers any suggestions for the location for
permanently marking in the interior. Any pictures would be great. I can’t
remember ever seeing the numbers on boats in the interior before.
Linus_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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Hey, Eric,
I was going to bring all sorts of cable along with me as emergency rigging
on my cruise, but settled instead with 3/8″ Amsteel for the big rigging (not
forestay or backstay) and 1/4″ for the other stuff. Same working strength
as steel, less stretch and is super easy to rig and put eyes in.Bob
On Tue, Feb 9, 2010 at 6:24 PM, Eric Lorentzon <> wrote:
Thanks all; for the feedback on standing rig replacent for Navasana .
I am considering 2 options – replacing with all new SS or using Colligo
Marine’s system of synthetic rigging. I am enamored with the apparent
Independence of a fully lashed system vs mechanical.
Eric—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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