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Once you’re more than 12 miles or so offshore no tablet will have access.
As long as the charts are loaded and there is an internal GPS it doesn’t
matter what kind of wireless system it has.The store geek doesn’t or cant comprehend what you’re trying to do.
Remember, most people can’t fathom being at sea outside wireless service.
Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Mar 25, 2014 8:33 PM, “typhoontye” wrote:Looks like a nice pad, Linus but it’s still WiFi only so it won’t work
offshore as a backup. At least that is what the rep with Navionics tells
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Hi Rich,
Loran E is still available, with the main problem that no marine receivers
exist. There was talk a couple of years ago of making one, but no one
seemed interested. Its advantage was that not only did it tell you where
you were, it told you your heading. Now the only way to get a stable
heading at rest is with two GPS receivers.I wonder what’s going to happen with Russia’s COSPAS that will be a newer
and more accurate version of GPS.GPS is currently suffering from satellite end of life issues. I think of
the 8 initial spare satellites there are only one or two left.Get out the sextant, people!
Bob
On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 10:21 AM, wrote:
Quote:I have an Iphone and Ipad. My backup chartplotter runs on both. Frankly,
it is more important to me that the chartplotter run on the cellphone than
on my Ipad. I got caught in the fog in the dinghy one evening a few years
back. Although I had a compass onboard, I wish I had a chartplotter of
some sort. It was a long trip down a winding channel. I realize that you
don’t like Apple products, but consider getting something that runs on your
cellphone, perhaps a new cellphone if necessary.My backup for my sailboat is actually a laptop below at my chart table.
The phone and tablet chart-plotters are backups for that or for use in the
dinghy. The nice thing about tablet apps is that they are cheap. Since I
had the Ipad and Iphone, getting a charting app was a no-brainer. Many
apps run on both. If you buy for one, it installs on the other
automatically.Too bad we don’t have a backup for GPS. The bone-heads in Washington cut
off funding for LORAN and took the chains down. If the GPS system goes
down, we’re screwed. I worked on the GPS system back in the ’70’s and have
a good understanding of the system vulnerabilities. There are events that
could take the system down.Rich
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Any tablet (like the Acer Iconia) with Android and a real GPS receiver will
work with the apps that DON’T NEED TO DOWNLOAD CHARTS. You just need to be
sure it has a GPS receiver. If it doesn’t have cell access (no sim card)
and it can find itself on Google Maps or Earth, then it has a GPS receiver
and all you need is an app and the charts. There are apps that will
display the unit’s lat and long as well as speed and they work with the
internal GPS. If there is none, they will tell you.Bob
On Mon, Mar 24, 2014 at 9:56 AM, quent wrote:
Some cell phones use cell towers for location but unless you get your
tablet from a phone company, it won’t do that.
I don’t know about getting the tablet to talk to the chart plotter. Seen
to remember something about ipod talking to Fugawi software on a laptop.
You could check with them.
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It seems like you have air in the engine, probably in the water heater
loop. The freshwater pump gets air bound at high rpm. It’s getting better
because you are causing the air to vent out slowly.Bob
On Thu, Mar 13, 2014 at 9:42 AM, Page Two wrote:
Thanks Rich,
I was told that if my head gasket had a leak there should be signs of
poor starting and possible white smoke/steam out the exhaust. I really have
no idea that it ISN’T bad. There is 1600 hrs on the engine and it really
does seem to run perfect. What baffles me is that on the two day run here
the coolant problem seemed to get better and better. The coolant was at the
add line and stayed steady, no bubbling, as I increased RPM coolant it
would draw down into the engine and as I decreased it would fill back in.At this time I feel somewhat confident to continue down the ditch in
protected waters with it as it is. Great fuel economy and a decent speed. I
understand the seriousness of a head gasket issue and I’m quite capable of
doing the job myself, I’ve been in and out of quite a few blocs and heads.
Trouble shooting is the bear for me.What about the air I might have left in the system?
??? Now that it’s worked itself out it’s running fine????Ken
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You need a new copper washer. If you have to use the old one, you need to
anneal it again (heat it over the stove until red, let air cool) so that it
seals properly.If you purchase them as Westerbeke washers, I’m sure multi $, if from
Tractor Supply or somewhere, $.50 or so, maybe less.Bob
On Wed, Mar 5, 2014 at 8:20 AM, skipmac wrote:
I’m thinking I should pull the injectors from my spare engine and have
then tested and rebuilt as needed and add to my spares.So never having had to replace an injector is there anything more than
pulling the old one, inserting the new, torqueing down the bolts that hold
it in, attach the fuel lines and go? Any special concerns?_______________________________________________
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From what I can gather, the 4-154 series 200 is still manufactured and
still in use. Any 4-154 older than 83, I think, is probably not supported.Bob
On Tue, Mar 4, 2014 at 11:46 AM, wrote:
Quote:A word to the wise…
I had a bad experience with my old W-60. Hansen is in the next town over
to where I keep my boat. They are the logical supplier for parts and
service. I found it getting increasingly expensive to buy parts for my
engine. Some were no longer even available, at any price. I eventually
got disgusted and pulled the Westerbeke and swapped in a Yanmar. While the
Yanmar is a much better engine, this was a huge expense that should have
been avoidable. If I owned a W-58, I’d be stocking my spare parts bin with
things like injectors, pumps, manifold, glow-plugs, gaskets, etc while you
still can. If one of you finds an off-the-shelf source for generic parts,
you might get together to make a buy. Buying a junk motor just for parts
might make sense.There comes a point in time where nursing the old beast doesn’t make
sense. You’ll be replacing the W-58 at some point in time. Continuing to
throw money at it when that money could be better spent on a new engine may
make better sense. What tipped the scales for me was a leaky fuel tank. I
had to pull the engine anyway to replace the fuel tank.I underestimated the total cost for a repower when I made that decision.
I was expecting around $15K if I did all the work. Parts alone for the
Yanmar ran north of $20K, engine, V-drive, drive-gear, exhaust, hoses,
mounts, etc. A large piece of this was the V-drive, shaft, and prop. You
might get by without replacing these initially, but the V-drives only last
about 30 years after which they rust out. Replacing the V-drive lets you
select different gear reduction ratios. This opens your engine selection
to more engines. Your old prop may not be properly cut for whatever engine
you select… Once you start, things add up quickly. Even though
repowering was hugely expensive, I’m glad I did it. The boat cruises
faster and more comfortably.Rich
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It would be helpful to know which Mazda engine. I know it was used in the
B-200 pickup truck.Bob
On Tue, Mar 4, 2014 at 10:24 AM, Roger Bigger wrote:
I checked with Bob Hansen at Hansen Marine in Marblehead, Massachusetts.
Bob said that the Westerbeke 58 was originally a Mazda engine that was
purchased by both Perkins and Westerbreke. Interestingly Bob said that
Perkins was no longer supporting their version of this Mazda-based engine
and was no longer supplying parts. The parts Perkins has may be old stock.
It’s also possible that just the Marine division of Perkins no longer
providing support but that the tractor division still is. So, depending on
their suitability–I have no idea what the marinizing process entails–it
might make sense to grab those Perkins parts while they are still
available. Westerbeke is still supporting the 58 with Mazda parts albeit at
the usual arm-and-leg price.
RogerOn Mar 3, 2014, at 10:36 PM, “skipmac” wrote:
Hi Dan,
Had heard that most Westerbekes were other engines painted red so did a
little research and determined that the W58 is the same as a Perkins 4.154
series 200 engine. Those were common in tractors and industrial equipment
where parts are MUCH cheaper.Assuming your fresh water pump is the same as mine, it’s a two piece
unit. The main pump body bolted to the block and a smaller insert that
has the shaft and rotor. Unless the body is rusted out you can just remove
the shaft section and replace. It was faster and cheaper for me than
buying a rebuild kit.The previous thread is here.
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=2086&highlight=
I bought my pump on eBay from this company
http://www.plowboyequipment.com/ Best deal I found anywhere and they
were very helpful helping me identify the part.Here’s a link to the original eBay ad with a picture of the part.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6599948-6630541-Bobcat-Skid-Steer-Loader-Water-Pump-843-/170902596727
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Check this link for more information then you could possibly want:
http://www.engnetglobal.com/c/c.aspx/PAR017/productdetail/perkins-4154-and-perkins-4154–200-series?ref=rss,par017Quent, great advice!
Bob
On Tue, Mar 4, 2014 at 7:36 AM, quent wrote:
A pump for about $100 is a pretty good deal.
First I would loosen the alternator and remove the belt(s) Then turn the
pump pully and see if there’s any play or rumbling from the bearings. The
weep hole is there to allow any coolant that gets past the shaft seal to
leak out before it gets to the bearings.
If the bearings are worn, you can probably find generic replacements. The
shaft seal however is a spring loaded face seal and you will probably have
to get that from Westerbeke, Perkins, or a pump supplier.
You will also need access to a hydraulic press to remove the pulley
flange. Not a big job, but requires the right parts and equipment.
If the pump needs a rebuild, suggest you remove it and examine the rotor
end. I’ve seen one on which the rotor blades were corroded badly.
While you have the pump off, consider removing the upper and lower
thermostat housings, replacing the short hose between the pump and the
thermostat housing and cleaning out any crap in there. Unless, of
course, any of the bolts are seized, in which case just replace the pump.
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Someone recently found the perkins pump for this engine.
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Mar 3, 2014 5:36 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:That is an indication that the shaft seal is leaking. That is an easy
fix. Pull the pump and replace the seal. You don’t need to buy a
westerbeke part numbered seal. Just get to the seal and measure its height
and diameter and measure the shaft diameter. You can then get a new seal
at any industrial supply (look up bearings in the yellow pages or google
equivalent). Go ahead and change the bearings while you are in there as
well. All cheap and easy.Pete
On 3/3/2014 5:29 PM, kalinowski wrote:
I finally chased down a coolant leak on the old W-58. It’s coming from a
bleed hole on the bottom of the shaft housing. Does this mean the pump is
bad? Can it be rebuilt? I’ve never been this way, so looking for guidance
from all.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Sorry Bill,
Here are the numbers:
Main sail: P: 38′ 0″, E: 14′ 6″
Mizzen: P: 23′ 0″, E: 8′ 9″
Where P is the luff and E is the foot.
Good luck,
Bob
On Sun, Mar 2, 2014 at 9:08 AM, wrote:
thanks, Bob. Another boat here in George Town has a candidate sail, and I
was just trying for a quick response from someone who may have had the
measurements at their fingertips, as Internet availability is poor when it
exists at all and costly.
Have a good day.~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 3/2/2014 8:53:05 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:If you need it I can send you a copy. But honestly, any sailmaker will
have the measurement or you can do it yourself.Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Mar 2, 2014 8:26 AM, wrote:tks, John, all the best.
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 3/2/2014 8:05:22 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:Bill,
Here is a link to the P424 sail plan I put on my website:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Sail%20Plan%20Med.JPGIt is difficult to read as I had to scan the original plan in 8xs11
sections then piece them together. I believe Pat publish a clean imageof
the plan on the P424 website. You might search there for it.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Mar 2, 2014 at 6:52 AM, wrote:
Thanks, Steve.
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 3/1/2014 11:38:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:as well as any thoughts on weight, lofts, experiences, price,
etc., tks. I’m a ketch rig, btw..
BILL, in George Town._______________________________________________
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If you need it I can send you a copy. But honestly, any sailmaker will
have the measurement or you can do it yourself.Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Mar 2, 2014 8:26 AM, wrote:tks, John, all the best.
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 3/2/2014 8:05:22 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:Bill,
Here is a link to the P424 sail plan I put on my website:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Sail%20Plan%20Med.JPGIt is difficult to read as I had to scan the original plan in 8xs11
sections then piece them together. I believe Pat publish a clean image of
the plan on the P424 website. You might search there for it.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Mar 2, 2014 at 6:52 AM, wrote:
Thanks, Steve.
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 3/1/2014 11:38:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:as well as any thoughts on weight, lofts, experiences, price,
etc., tks. I’m a ketch rig, btw..
BILL, in George Town._______________________________________________
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The 23 is my stern anchor, and spare bow anchor (after I lose the secondary
CQR).Bob
On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 9:17 PM, pma_foyl wrote:
Hi All,
Of course, I know this is essentially “religion”, but I’d love to get some
thoughts about YOUR stern anchor sizing for the P424.I just got a Fortress FX-23 (large, but only 15lbs). I dig the weight, but
feel like it’s HUGE. Could be too big and cumbersome. Perhaps an FX-16
would have been sufficient. They say the FX-23 is for 39 – 45′ boats, but
I’m sure they are talking about primary/bow anchors. Am I just being
hopeful about using a smaller anchor for my stern? Definitely don’t want to
go too small, but uncertain. The stern hooking I’ll do is mostly in
protected anchorages where the aim is to avoid swinging in tight quarters.
However, there may be times when changing currents or winds put real
pressure on the stern hook.I don’t really want to discuss “what I should ‘really’ do”… I’d like to
know what are you using?Thank you, Paul
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I think most of us have put the sheet to the stern rail.
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Feb 25, 2014 10:20 AM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Very strange… let’s try again…
Imagine if you will putting all of the blocks and padeyes from your boat
in a big box for four years and then remembering exactly how each was
mounted while also replacing a bunch of them with new Garhauer hardware….
I just didn’t take enough pictures first. Now I could use some advice
or pictures on how folks rigged their mizzen sheet near the gooseneck.
Our Bimini is high and the sheet needs to run tighter in that turn to keep
from rubbing holes in the front edge of the Bimini fabric. Suggestions
and pictures greatly appreciated.Pete
On 2/25/2014 9:04 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Eh?
On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 9:04 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
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