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John,
The arrangement Rich is talking about is the same as I have on both booms – there is a fixed topping lift from the mastheads that terminates in a thimbled eye. A line from one side of the boom runs up to a block at the eye and back to the other side of the boom. This then runs through a cheek block forward on the boom to a cleat. I think that the mizzen originally may have had a block to a tang at the outer limit of the boom but I'm not sure. Anyway, both work marvelously.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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On the W58, you can't start the motor if the glow plug button isn't pushed – it provides power to both the starting button and the glow plugs…
Bob
On Tue, Apr 7, 2009 at 9:24 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
1- release the glow plug button before hitting the starter button and you will have more current available.
2- don't go crazy on glow plug time. it is easy to burn out your glow plugs (as me how I know). 5 Mississippi should be plenty.Patrick Walters wrote:
I've been holding off on asking this question hoping to do some more troubleshooting myself but I figured I'll throw it out and see what you all think.
After sitting at the dock for a while (daysmonths) the engine does not start.
Starting procedure:
Turn on the key (listen to annoying bell)
Hold down Glwo POlug for 15 seconds
Push Start
I get a single click from the area of the starter and nothing.
I can then go down with a screw driver and start the engine by connecting the starter switch post to the + terminal.
I think that is telling me I have a bad starter switch or wiring tofromin the switch to the solenoid.
Now to screw all that up, after running the motor for a bit the engine starts up just fine which makes me think its my batteries not giving enough umph, but if that's the case why can I start the engine with the screwdriver bypass?
Prior to starting, the battery test in the nav station reports >12v. The engine gauge is in the yellow I think that is right at or under 12v when the key is on.
I checked the SG on a couple of batteries this weekend and they looked full and measured fine.
I actually think it’s the batteries, because I am pretty sure I've been a batter caretaker, but this isn't adding up for me.
Any thoughts?
-patrickP.s. I did get the boat off the dock and go sailing this weekend though… it was great. Winking smile emoticon
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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The problem sounds like a classic case of corroded ground, positive
terminals on the engine or need a new starter solenoid. Just for
grins, try whacking the starter solenoid or relay (I just thought of
that-it could be bad too).Typically you’ll find it’s corrosion.
Bob
On 4/7/09, Patrick Walters <> wrote:
I’ve been holding off on asking this question hoping to do some more
troubleshooting myself but I figured I’ll throw it out and see what you all
think.After sitting at the dock for a while (daysmonths) the engine does not
start.
Starting procedure:
Turn on the key (listen to annoying bell)
Hold down Glwo POlug for 15 seconds
Push Start
I get a single click from the area of the starter and nothing.
I can then go down with a screw driver and start the engine by connecting
the starter switch post to the + terminal.I think that is telling me I have a bad starter switch or wiring tofromin
the switch to the solenoid.Now to screw all that up, after running the motor for a bit the engine
starts up just fine which makes me think its my batteries not giving enough
umph, but if that’s the case why can I start the engine with the screwdriver
bypass?Prior to starting, the battery test in the nav station reports >12v. The
engine gauge is in the yellow I think that is right at or under 12v when the
key is on.
I checked the SG on a couple of batteries this weekend and they looked full
and measured fine.I actually think it’s the batteries, because I am pretty sure I’ve been a
batter caretaker, but this isn’t adding up for me.Any thoughts?
-patrickP.s. I did get the boat off the dock and go sailing this weekend though…
it was great.
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com—
Sent from my mobile deviceBob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Hi Tor, Pat, and Pete,
The plastic grating comes in 1/4″ x 1/4″ holes so it's not bad at all to stand on.
Bob
PS I like the teak thing for $99. But I'm a sucker for stuff like that….
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Hi Tor,
Be careful – especially with Perko. Call Roger at Bristol Bronze (401-625-5224) who is not only a maven with bronze, but probably can tell you who makes a true bronze garboard plug.
Typically, Perko stuff has a lot of zinc in it, which as we all know, is sacrificial. Silicon bronze doesn't have any and tends to be a richer hue than the stuff Perko makes – Just be careful is all I'm saying.
Bob
On Sun, Apr 5, 2009 at 12:35 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Don. West Marine (Port Supply) sells a bronze Perko plug that seems suitable. No idea where it's manufactured, though. I suppose I could ask Perko.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
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Hi Pete,
I really like the idea of bamboo, too, and would have used that with strips of ipe reversing the colors (light wide, dark narrow), but frankly I haven't got it in me.
I also thought of the one latch per panel. I could have had an aluminum 'Z' that locked on the 'L' underneath, but since the 'L's were free I didn't want to push my luck. Also, at like $19 each from Marine Part Depot, I figured what the heck. Also, it looks more manly to turn and lift two rings rather than one, don't you think?
Thank you for the compliment. It wasn't too long ago that I wouldn't touch a project that includes wood because 1. wood isn't as precise as metal; and 2. the tools are really nasty – there are a lot less metal workers missing fingers than woodworkers…
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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NEW! UPDATE!
Hi All,
Got all the tools, accumulated the fittings. Installed the latches. Holes finished. Pictures included. The hatch below the companionway looks dull because it's sanded for varnishing.
Per the PYI fittings: Having removed the board above the engine cover about a hundred times, with screw holes pretty much useless, will install these babies to help solve the problem of getting it on and off easily.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
Here's a link to thick industrial grating. I know nothing of cost, but I think a silver tongued devil such as yourself could talk them out of 4 square feet for 'evaluation'…
http://www.strongwell.com/products/molded_prod/molded_grating/
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Hi Alan,
My preference is hard hoses – the white ones like for heads. I know these things are exposed to my incompetence with things heavy and sharp. I like the extra measure of strength.
The black wire-wound hoses are good, too, but after years they tend to get sticky. I don't like that.
Bob
On Thu, Apr 2, 2009 at 4:47 PM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
What is the opinion on the type of hose for deck drains. Hardwall? Softwall? In the process of replacing the aft deck drain hoses and deck drains, maybe even replace the plastic thru hull fitting. Now remember these are the drains that are at the water line or above (depending on where your water line has been painted).
After taking the hoses off, I am again not disapointed that I started this horrible job.
alan—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The W58 has an electric pump (with filter inside) and the bleed screw is at the top aft inboard side of the filter housing. It takes about 15 seconds to bleed, but have some absorbents ready.
Bob
On Thu, Apr 2, 2009 at 11:31 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Pat
It depends on your engine.
Slip a zip-lock bag with paper towels in the bottom over the fuel filter before removal. This will catch most of whatever spills.With my old W60 which was a bear to bleed, I found that if I could avoid getting air into the high pressure pump, changing filters was pretty easy. I would first crack a bleed screw on the top of the filter and fill that until fuel spilled out, then close that. Then crack the fuel input line on the high pressure pump and continue bleeding until bubbles stopped coming out. Then close that. If done right, the engine would start right up. Bleeding was done with an electric fuel pump I put in series with the mechanical lift pump. You can do it with the mechanical pump but its tedious.
Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
Original Message
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Hi Pat,
When I changed the one on the engine, I placed a big plastic cup under it and some of that absorbent stuff below that – if you're careful, you won't spill much – very little.
I'm wondering if anyone with a W58 has ever changed the filter in the lift pump. The electric pump has an integral filter. I know because I have replacement cartridges from Westerbeke just for that.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Let me see what I can find…
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 6:02 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,
I'd rather avoid wood in there. Any idea where one might find the commercial plastic grates?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I do, indeed have an idea – instead of using teak (EXPENSIVE) use ipe (eee pay) which is cheapish. Need carbide saw blades to cut but there is no reason we couldn't make a nice thing out of that.
There is commercial plastic grates that are thicker than the things at WM which are about the same price, but you only need 4 or so, for about $20.
I took the box out because it was in my way. It came out very easily.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 2:11 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,
I set up my shower sump system as you did, i.e., a hose from the shower pan through an inline filter to a 12v pump and then directly overboard. However, I left the original (now-lidless) Pearson sump box where it was, just forward of the V-drive. For now it collects the fridge drain hose runoff, but it'll probably become a small storage bin when I provision for the long haul.
Bob, we need to come up with a shallow, easy-to-clean (as in non-teak) shower stall grate to get our feet out of the water between sumps. I'd like some kind of plastic, similar to what so-called milk crates are made of. Free/cheap is better than WM pricey. Any ideas?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Short answer: Yes – it is the column height that makes the pressure.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 1:28 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Basic physics question. Does a column of water 4″ in diameter 4' high exert the same pressure as a 1″ column 4' high?
Linus<.. snip>
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Hi Rich,
I took that crappy sump out – if it's the one that Pearson made. I installed a strainer between the drain and the sump pump. I can live with an inch of water in the shower until I activate the pump. The Pearson sump was less than useful anyway and blocked the bilge.
When I put in my holding tank, I needed access to the bilge pumps and other stuff, so out it went!
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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