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My windlass runs off the main battery bank just fine. I have a switch
and breaker box in the nav station locker so I can turn the power on/off
conveniently (how would you do this conveniently if the battery were
forward except for a very expensive remote switch?) Also have a red
light in the cockpit with the start/preheat button so I know when the
windlass has power. There is a low mounted switch in the cockpit so I
can lower the anchor with toe control and a control socket at the bow.
You guys know I love over-engineered solutions but adding another
battery to take care of/replace is of little interest to me.Pete
On 10/13/2010 7:00 AM, SilverHeels wrote:
Quote:Alan,Why not just tie the windlass battery to the house bank? As you pointed out,
the windlass only runs for a few minutes a day, if that. The rest of the
time that forward battery’s amps could be available for house use, and it
gets recharged when the others get recharged. A simple in-line breaker
switch gives you the ability to separate it from the house bank anytime.
Anyway, that’s the way mine’s set up and it seems functional enough. I’m not
sure I see an advantage to total isolation, let alone the echo charger, but
then I’ve never been an electronics wiz.Tor
SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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And they say I goof off too much in this forum…. harrumph.
Pete
On 9/30/2010 7:02 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Yes, here’s a photo of her.
<http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q271/mizza_album/ugly-women-3.jpg>Rich
Quote:
Original Message
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my thinking exactly… as I said… “strange”
On 8/30/2010 11:59 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:That may be but why fuse it? Also, since all grounds go to the same bars
why bother?Bob
On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 9:50 AM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
Quote:I am thinking it might be tied to the case grounds of the ham radios. I
need to trace the few black wires coming into the terminal strip this is
joined to. More on this as I learn more.Pete
On 8/30/2010 6:44 AM, Paul Lefebvre wrote:
Quote:Okay, my guess would be that it had something to do with the SSB antenna
instalation???Paul
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:34:46 -0400
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I am thinking it might be tied to the case grounds of the ham radios.
I need to trace the few black wires coming into the terminal strip this
is joined to. More on this as I learn more.Pete
On 8/30/2010 6:44 AM, Paul Lefebvre wrote:
Quote:Okay, my guess would be that it had something to do with the SSB antenna instalation???Paul
Quote:Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:34:46 -0400
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http://www.golden-shellback.com
On 8/27/2010 8:45 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
This sounds way too good to be true. Can I have some?
On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 10:07 AM, Lee Yonkers<> wrote:
This is good news – maybe
MARITIME EXECUTIVE NEWSLETTER for August 07, 2008
New Coating Technology Repels Water From All Consumer Electronics Golden
Shellback is a unique coating that protects material against damage caused
by exposure to water. The technology was developed by Northeast Maritime
Institute, a private maritime education and training Institute located in
Fairhaven Massachusetts. The Institute’s creed is “Honor The Mariner”.In maritime circles there has been a battle raging for at least one
thousand
years; water vs equipment. This dilemma was magnified when electrical
components where first brought aboard ship requiring electricity to live in
close quarters with its natural enemy; water. To date the solution to this
problem has been the use of barriers to keep water away from components.From hard cases with synthetic gaskets to plastic amour found in electric
cable, protecting a device from the conductive and corrosive properties of
water has always been done external to the core components.Sid Martin, Director of Technology at Northeast Maritime Institute,
approached the problem from a different perspective. Listening to working
mariners training at the Institute’s facilities, Martin knew that
protecting
devices from marine environments needed to be done without adding size or
complexity to the device. With knowledge gained in the semi-conductor,
aerospace and maritime industries Martin set out to protect every surface
of
a device; at the molecular level.The results are impressive. During the testing process Northeast Maritime
Institute has submerged an IPOD Touch, Blackberry Pearl, numerous VHF
radios
and other equipment without noticeable damage. One such device operated
continuously while immersed in water for over 450 hours prior to failure.“When Sid dropped his blackberry into the bucket of water my jaw dropped
with it. I could hardly believe the result.” -Captain John Konrad, gCaptain
BlogProviding a uniform, near hermetic coating Golden Shellback protects
electronics exposed to water and resists both rain and humidity allowing
them to continue working during and after direct exposure. The coating also
has the ability to repel oil, synthetic fluid, hazardous material, sand,
dust, and water-based substances. No one is more excited by this
development than Eric Dawicki, President of Northeast Maritime Institute.
Having served in the Coast Guard and aboard large merchant ships Dawicki is
confident this technology will not only help keep consumer electronics out
of landfills but when offered to mariners, rescue teams and first
responders
it will save lives.Additional uses for the technology are still being explored but the
Institute has already responded to requests from medical device
manufacturers, rescue professionals and consumers located around the world.
Golden Shellback coating is currently available to companies for
application
during the manufacturing process. Consumers can expect to get their
existing
devices shellbacked in the coming months.Copyright 2007 The Maritime Executive
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Bring your boat and I will!
On 8/26/2010 7:01 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:If you supply the Fat Tire……
alan— On Thu, 8/26/10, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
<.. snip>
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I’d be glad to host a rally here, in the corn field, in Colorado.
Anybody coming?Pete
On 8/26/2010 6:41 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
A Pearson 422 owner was asking me if there’s a rally that happens for
Pearsons? He’s in Massachusetts.Along those same lines, this Spring we should do a Puget Sound rally! (Don,
keep your boat. 😉 )-p
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I have a Tank Tender on my boat and just added a probe to the new fuel
tank under the cockpit sole. What I like about this is that it uses no
electricity and is dead accurate (inches of diesel).It would be easy to make your own “tank tender” for much less than they
sell them for but I have yet to find a gauge that is measured in both
inches of diesel and inches of water. (an inch of diesel = 0.6 inches
of water, so the calculation is easy anyway, just like converting Km to
miles).Pete
On 8/25/2010 12:04 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
I do have the original tank (no leaks yet) and I’m going to replace the
gauge with a sender which I can at least attach a remote gauge to or hook
into my NMEA 2000 network. Laying on the cockpit floor, putting water on the
scratched up viewing glass and using a flashlight is not my idea of a good
time.Thanks Rich and John for the pics. Richard I measured my tank at 24″ where
the gauge was and you had your’s made 1″ less deep at 23″ was it also an 1″
less deep at 17″ in the aft end (looking at your PDF drawing.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/fuelTank.pdf) such that the original
tank was 18″?I think with this info I’ll be able to pick my sender and get it calibrated
properly.Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 7:38 PM, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
If you have the original tank, I might still have the gauge from my old
tank if that will help you out.Pete
On 8/24/2010 7:34 PM, Patrick_Seattle wrote:
I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge
didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had
to borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one side.
The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″
long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/ Dial
No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my
assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on the
bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender I
buy as they come in lengths.You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-p
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If you have the original tank, I might still have the gauge from my
old tank if that will help you out.Pete
On 8/24/2010 7:34 PM, Patrick_Seattle wrote:
I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832
I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had to borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!
Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one side. The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″ long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/ Dial No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).
The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on the bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender I buy as they come in lengths.
You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-p
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Rich,
I have heard that folks have their chains re-galvanized in Venezuela for
a very good price… if you happen to be in the neighborhood.Pete
On 8/24/2010 11:10 AM, wrote:
Quote:Yes, thanks I know. My gypsy is made for 3/8HT. I’d have to replace the drum with one for 5/16 HT. I just checked the distributor. They want a little over $300 for a new gypsy for a Lofrans Tigress. Sounds like a lot of money for a simple casting to me. I’ll have to think this over. I sleep pretty well with the size chain I already use. In any case I need new chain. My chain is looking pretty sad after over 25 years of use.Rich
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Windlass gypsy has to match the chain (or visa versa). be sure to
check before you invest in the chain.On 8/24/2010 7:13 AM, wrote:
Quote:I’m about to replace my chain. Its currently 200′ of 3/8 HT. I’m thinking of switching over to 5/16. That seems to be what everyone else is using. 200 feet of 5/16 is about 200 lbs whereas 3/8 chain is 300 lbs.Rich
Original Message
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Sorry. I did not realize that there was no room in your busy boat
life for a little humor. This forum has been a pretty good balance
between the facts and the fun.SO LIGHTEN UP!
On 8/22/2010 1:41 PM, JodyandStephen wrote:
Obviously you are yet to learn what reef knots are for. Apologies this question was meant for adults.
petedd wrote:
Absolutely the most economical solution:
http://www.animatedknots.com/reef/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com;^)
On 8/18/2010 7:50 AM, JodyandStephen wrote:
Does anyone have any plans or examples of inexpensive ways of attaching solar panels to the side or aft of a ketch rig 424?
We dont have davits at this stage, but if anybody knows of any going cheap or an inexpensive faribcator please let us know. We are in Georgia USA.
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That book is kinda old. You can get “LDO” (low drop out) regulators
today that are able to work with 0.3V or less of margin.On 8/19/2010 1:08 PM, quent wrote:
Thanks, guys. You are all very helpful. I looked at 12 Volt Doctor book and as John suspected, the input voltage has to be 2 volts higher than the regulated voltage. I guess I could build one and connect it with a relay to a voltage sensing switch, but first I’ll just try the TV on 14 volts as Pete and Rich suggest. Besides, watching TV with the engine running would be unpleasant anyway. Might never happen.
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Those 80 watt or larger dc-dc supplies would do the job. Very nice.
Good find Patrick.Would want to check the RFI on these (put a handheld scanner next to it
and see where it interferes).Pete
On 8/19/2010 1:15 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
There are a lot of good instructions on how to build these on the
internets.
http://www.google.com/search?q=make+DC+voltage+regulator&btnG=Search&hl=en&rlz=1C1GGLS_enUS359US359&sa=2<http://www.google.com/search?q=make+DC+voltage+regulator&btnG=Search&hl=en&rlz=1C1GGLS_enUS359US359&sa=2>They
look pretty easy and might be fun to do.Another alternative for “perfect” power is look into the DC to DC power
supplies that the mobile auto computer kids are using:
http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.13/.f
http://store.mp3car.com/Power_Products_s/2.htm-p
<http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.13/.f>
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 8:04 AM, John Stevenson<>wrote:
Quent,
I made a voltage regulator from Radio Shack parts (<$5) back in the 80s.
I’m not an electronics expert, so I used a circuit design in the 12V
Doctor’s Project Book. I doubt that book is still in print, but you might
be able to find it on eBay. That is the one of his books I do not have
onboard. I must have loaned it to a “friend”. I checked on Amazon.com and
they do not have it.
The voltage regulator I built will do what you asked for, but it may not do
everything you need. That is it will maintain 12v output as long as the
input voltage is 12v or higher. When the input voltage drops below 12v so
does the output. You might contact Lind Electronics to see if they have
some thing that will work for you. They primarily make DC power adapters
for laptops (e.g., 12v to 18v), but they might have something that just
does
12v-12v.
There is always the option of running it off an inverter.On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 10:39 AM, quent<> wrote:
Folks, this is a request for help from the electronics experts in the
group.
I just found at HH Greg some combination 13″ ED TV/ DVD players with all
the bells and whistles like PC input for $100. The power supply is a
converter that provides 12v DC @ 3 amps. I’d like to power them off the
boat batteries, but I’m a little worried that the charging voltage(14.4v)
might be too high. Manufacturer (Curtis) was not helpful.
Can someone tell me where to get or how to make a device that will limitDC
power to 12 volts?
Thanks!
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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To my experience, the power bricks do not provide a high degree of
regulation and where that higher degree of regulation is required, that
regulation is provided within the TV. I run my LCD TV on the boat
directly from the house 12V and have had no problem.Pete
On 8/19/2010 8:39 AM, quent wrote:
Folks, this is a request for help from the electronics experts in the group.
I just found at HH Greg some combination 13″ ED TV/ DVD players with all the bells and whistles like PC input for $100. The power supply is a converter that provides 12v DC @ 3 amps. I’d like to power them off the boat batteries, but I’m a little worried that the charging voltage (14.4v) might be too high. Manufacturer (Curtis) was not helpful.
Can someone tell me where to get or how to make a device that will limit DC power to 12 volts?
Thanks!
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