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Absolutely the most economical solution:
http://www.animatedknots.com/reef/index.php?Categ=scouting&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com;^)
On 8/18/2010 7:50 AM, JodyandStephen wrote:
Does anyone have any plans or examples of inexpensive ways of attaching solar panels to the side or aft of a ketch rig 424?
We dont have davits at this stage, but if anybody knows of any going cheap or an inexpensive faribcator please let us know. We are in Georgia USA.
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On mine there is no plywood plate. The two holes are straight through
the beam, top to bottom, and are indeed tight for all the wires that
need to go through them.Pete
On 8/16/2010 9:45 PM, hanks424 wrote:
For ketch rigs, does anyone know the purpose of the wooden plywood plate that is screwed to the front of the wood beam supporting the mizzen step? This is directly over the engine. Will removing this plywood ‘cover’ give any access to the mizzen step/wiring from below? I don’t hear any hollow sounds when tapping on the cover.
I would like to pull new wires in the mizzen without unstepping the mast. The existing wiring (radar and lights) that exits under the beam seems really tight. I’m hoping there’s not a lot of caulking where the wires pass thru the mizzen step.
Any ideas?
Hank S.
SHAY #90 Ketch
Hull #90_______________________________________________
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Clearly a non-asymmetrical hyperbolic phase imbalance inducing a wizz
bang super eight inductive field current.On 8/16/2010 8:51 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
It might be a bad attitude detector. I was a bit grumpy at the time. 😉
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:12 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Could it be a sun spot detector?
On 8/16/2010 5:18 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
I added GFI outlets on board, but they were not even in the circuit when
the
light was on; all individual breakers were off.My working theory is the light should always be on and that it’s just
flakey.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 2:59 PM, norris larson<
wrote:
Quote:One possibility. Do both you and the shore power have GFIs? shore power
in
Nove Scotia and Cape Breton does. When I plugged in to one of their
docks, a
shore side circuit breaker blew. Maybe there is some other effect at your
dock related to this issue.Norris Larson, Easy Reach, #216, on the market.
— On Fri, 8/13/10, Patrick wrote:
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Could it be a sun spot detector?
On 8/16/2010 5:18 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Quote:I added GFI outlets on board, but they were not even in the circuit when the
light was on; all individual breakers were off.My working theory is the light should always be on and that it’s just
flakey.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 2:59 PM, norris larsonwrote:
Quote:One possibility. Do both you and the shore power have GFIs? shore power in
Nove Scotia and Cape Breton does. When I plugged in to one of their docks, a
shore side circuit breaker blew. Maybe there is some other effect at your
dock related to this issue.Norris Larson, Easy Reach, #216, on the market.
— On Fri, 8/13/10, Patrick wrote:
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Images of Cap’n Ron docking… well done!
On 8/12/2010 1:58 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
I went out for a test motor today and things went great except for the last
100′ when I broke the transmission cable as I was going into reverse. I
shutdown the engine and we drifted down the fairway, when we go near a
finger pier I stepped off and stopped the boat then we dinghy-tuged her back
to out slip… Whew! No harm no foul.I’ve looked through the forum and my manuals and I can’t find anything about
the transmission cable. Anyone have a part # handy? I have a W58. I’m not
100% clear on the transmission makemodel.I’m guessing I can pull the existing cable and find a match that way too.
Thanks,
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Just trying to pay it forward. This group has been a great resource for me.
Pete
On 7/22/2010 9:31 PM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Pete
Thank you very much. You’ve got a great resource for Pearson info there.
Very best
Skip_______________________________________________
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Do you have an expansion tank on your system? This will hold the
pressure more consistently.Pete
On 7/22/2010 2:12 PM, kalinowski wrote:
I’ve been toying with the water system on Lady Leanne for quite a while now to remove an irritating behavior. The pressure drops after a while so that when you turn it back on it starts strong, pressure drops and the flow begins stuttering before it retains its full status. I’ve thoroughly checked for leaks and none were found. All fittings are tight. I’ve even installed a check valve at the tank selector switch to prevent back flow. The pump and accumulator are new.
What’s really interesting, is that the water turns warm before it turns cold. This leads me to believe that there is some kind of back flow through the hot water tank.
This is probably a simple question, but I’ve never had this happen on my Hunter. I though I would throw the question out there before I greased up to crawl into the port lazerette.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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I think you are seeking the tech manual. It covers all the details of a
engine rebuild.You can find that and other W58 manuals at my website:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/look in the W58 directory.
Pete
On 7/22/2010 5:36 AM, skipmac wrote:
Hello,
Anyone repower and have the shop manuals for a W58 for sale? I do have the standard owner’s manual but I believe there is also a full shop manual available as well which would be nice to have.
Thanks
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Terry,
The spare parts have been selling for 50% of the best new price on the
internet, plus shipping. Does that work for you. (you are second in line)Pete
On 7/19/2010 5:09 AM, Terry Jones wrote:
Quote:Pete,
Good morning.
I’m interested in the exhaust elbow. And the pulleys.
Thanks,
Terry and Beth Jones
JONESEA #24
561-722-6598
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
You might want to talk to the folks at http://www.bushingsinc.com/
They may have a cross reference. To my recollection they do most of
this based on total weight of the engine/tranny.Pete
On 7/15/2010 5:15 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Alan
I can’t tell you which mounts you might have, but I can tell you that you
can’t use any random mount. The resonant frequency of the engine and mount
are related to the engine weight and mount stiffness. If you put the wrong
thing in there, the engine might vibrate at certain frequencies. I would
suggest looking in your owner’s manual for mount information. They likely
specify the mount. Your existing mounts probably have a part number on them
so you might get the info there.This is a good time to closely inspect the engine pan if you haven’t already
done so. Pearson didn’t do a good job with the design.Rich
Quote:
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and carcinogenic. Linked to rare cancers of the blood (bone marrow and
spleen) which my father died from.On 7/12/2010 8:00 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Ohh..I C , but don’t you want something that is tough? There is a direct
relation between “curing” and toughness, therefore durability. If ever you do
need to remove, some benzene as a solvent ( careful, very flammable ) will do
the trick.Joe,
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Butyl Rope is apparently used for sealing concrete pipes and septic
tanks. Here are a few links:http://www.multiseal-usa.com/butyltite.html
http://www.press-seal.com/products/product.php?p_id=23&option_id=1
Perhaps a good plumbing supply would have it.
Pete
On 7/12/2010 6:57 AM, Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Dan,The stuff I use is called Rope Caulk when purchased under Ace Hardware’s
brand name. I’ll bet Home Depot sells it, but can’t say whether they call it
rope caulk. Look among the window seal products. Most recently I bought some
packaged as Cord Weatherstip and manufactured by M-D Building Products
(http://www.mdteam.com). On the box it says “Not designed for marine use or for
constant water immersion.”I have never used rope caulk below the waterline and wouldn’t recommend it.
Wherever I’ve used it on deck – re-bedding the coachhouse brow strip,
installing a new porthole, re-sealing a stanchion base, mounting the
electric windlass on the foredeck, etc. – it has kept the water out 100% for
up to 3 years so far and still seems good as new.Rope caulk is great to work with, so much easier (and cheaper!) than the
“marine” semi-liquids in a tube like Life Caulk& 4200. (I refuse to use
silicone seal at all.) Here’s a neat trick I learned from another cruiser:
If you’re bedding two smooth, flush surfaces you may squeeze so much of the
caulking out when tightening the bolts that there’s too little left in
between for adequate waterproofing. This guy said he lays a strand of
ordinary string in with the bedding to act as a spacer. Obviously you’d keep
the string hidden from the weather edge of the seal. Seems like a good idea.
Wish I’d known about it a few years ago.I don’t know whether rope caulk is the same as butylrope, but would be
interested to hear if you find out – in case butylrope is somehow better.
Someone on the SSCA discussion board will probably know. Tech support at
http://www.mdteam.com will, for sure.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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My coolant pump is gone. I have two sea water pumps which are the
oversize retro-fit units. I also have the pulley and belts for that set-up.Pete
On 6/29/2010 1:39 PM, kalinowski wrote:
Do you still have the pumps available? Mine just crapped out. Is this for the W58? My boat is a 1980.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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For what it is worth, I have gone the longer way through Channel 7 (I
believe it was 7) in the keys. It is a lovely sail past Miami at night
though we came upon two guys in a tiny rowboat without lights fishing
too many miles off the coast of Miami. Going down the keys at night is
also a snap since the light houses have great sector lights. I’m just
not much for the ditches.Pete
On 6/29/2010 7:42 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
Barbara,
I think the company you are thinking of is the Indiantown Marina.
Good references on the water way can be found at:
http://www.saj.usace.army.mil/Divisions/Operations/Branches/SFOO/
and
http://cruisersnet.net/
and of course the Waterway Guide.I’m currently crewing on a 54′ Bertram that we are delivering from Orange
Beach, AL to Camden, ME. Hoping to depart on Thursday before this part of
the coast gets closed down completely. We did a sea test on the Bertram on
Sunday. Turns out that was illegal. The bays inside Perdida Pass were
closed to recreational traffic (open today). The Marine Police almost
didn’t let us take the boat back to the Marina. I don’t believe there are
any significant effects on the Florida coast. As a matter of fact the
Florida tourist office is flooding the local airways with advertisements to
come to the clean beaches and fishing grounds in Florida.We plan to use the Okeechobee Waterway going the other way. Latest report
is minimum depth of a little under 14′.On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 8:46 AM, svtopaz<> wrote:
Hi Guys….it is Barbara here.
I am on my way south and am in St. Augustine at the moment. Going to stay
for the 4th and perhaps a little longer. I had planned on going over to the
Ft Myers area, so my question is…….Has anyone gone through Lake Okeechobee?? If so could you give me any info
on getting through. I have heard people use a company to get under the
bridge using water to tip the vessel to get under it.I am still a bit concerned about the oil spill……I may just stay on the
east coast.~B
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Thanks!
On Jun 24, 2010, at 12:57 PM, “calicojack”
wrote:Pete – Beta repower was Mark Sherman . Don’t know
if he has found our group yet. Hope that helps.
Jack Coulter / Deaton Yacht Sales 424 “MOJO”_______________________________________________
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