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Tor,
Did you register at the site for a login and then get a confirming email
with a link in it?I just did all that and am having fun checking out the software. The
tradewinds are real.Pete
On 6/20/2013 4:27 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Hey Pete,Been there done that. Grib.us promises all of it, but I can’t get the site
to work. The links don’t link to anything. When it says “Next” and I click
on that text link, nothing happens. Maybe it’s my computer (although it’s
pretty new, w/Windows 7, and it works everywhere else). Maybe it’s the good
Barbados rum I stocked up on duty-free in Sint Maarten. Whatever, I can’t
get grib.us to give me the program.If anyone has this program and can email the .exe file to me, or else can
tell me where I can download it from a functioning website, I’d be grateful.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Great article by Bill Biewenga this month in Blue Water Sailing on free
online weather tools. For GRIB files, he suggests http://www.grib.usThere are links at that site for GRIB viewing software, ugrib, which is
free.Hope that helps some,
Pete
On 6/20/2013 3:50 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Does anyone know how/where to download the program for reading GRIB weather
files, and then where exactly to get them to read? I’m having a heck of a
time finding this info. I’ve found the program, but with all kinds of
“hitches” attached, or else with no hitches attached but the website doesn’t
work. Wha?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
I don’t believe it is still made. Â it used a disc like used on car disc brakes. Â A small hydraulic cylinder slides a carriage that spreads the brake pads when the engine is running a the granny fluid is pressurized. Â The carriage is cleverly designed so that the pads a pulled tighter if the prop sound the shaft while the brake is engaged. Â It’s property much a set and forget system as it automatically engaged whenever the engine is off and releases when the granny is spinning (forward, rev, on neutral).
Go to this link to see the provide manual   http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/Drive%20Train%20and%20Fuel%20System/PropLock/
Pete
Sent from my Samsung smartphone on AT&TSilverheels wrote:Pete,
I’d like to know about your shaft brake. Can you describe it and/or send me photos or literature (or a URL)?
Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Crystal clear. Â The bearing is partof your shaft brake. Â Got it. Â No bearings in the brake on mine. Â It used that on with the go cart brake pads.
Have a great sail!
Sent from my Samsung smartphone on AT&TSilverheels wrote:Hi Pete,
“> Where is the main shaft bearing.”
I’m no mechanic, so I’ll describe it in my own terms:Â I have a Paragon
transmission. They don’t lock the prop shaft under sail, even if you put
them in gear. So the prop free-wheels. The Paragon also doesn’t pump oil to
its internal parts when the engine is shut off, so when the prop is
freewheeling the tranny suffers wear and tear that (I am told) will
eventually cause significant harm. Also, I don’t like the noise of a
freewheeling prop under sail. Ergo, I installed a Shaft-Lok on the drive
shaft (or “jack shaft”), the short shaft connecting the transmission to the
V-drive. The Shaft-Lok embraces the shaft with a bearing – ball bearings in
a ring, held by retainers and a retaining ring. That bearing is what
self-destructed this morning. The retainer ring broke apart and the bearing
ball retainer clips (if that’s what they are) jammed against the drive
shaft. Hence the horrendous grinding noise and subsequent gnashing of teeth.Clear as mud?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
Sorry to hear, but as you say, fortunate that it happened close to the dock.
Where is the main shaft bearing.
Pete
On 5/15/2013 2:02 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Silverheels cast off at 0700 hrs. today, bound for St. Maarten, possibly by
way of Bermuda. The voyage lasted nearly 4 minutes. We’re now dockside again
waiting for a new Shaft-Lok to replace the one that self-destructed as we
left the dock this morning. (The main shaft bearing came apart with a great
grinding and gnashing of teeth.) Hoping we’ll be Ready for Sea (again) by
tomorrow afternoon, thanks to USPS overnight delivery. Feeling very
fortunate that the equipment failure occurred where and when it did rather
than 600 miles at sea.I’ve used some of this extra shore leave to download and complete the
Bermuda clearance form, as advised by John, Frank and others. Thanks for
that heads-up.Would the powers that be please remove me from receiving this group’s
emails, beginning this Friday until I request reinstatement (when I’ll
download the correspondences I’ve missed)? Thanks!Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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If the mizzen mast did not propel the boat, would it just sail off on
its own or perhaps just be left behind?On 5/15/2013 11:03 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:I don’t remember if you purchased yours new or from a previous owner.
It’s a good modification, but something like adding suspenders to your
belt. Deck stepped masts of any sort have one serious downfall – namely if
the rigging is compromised, the mast can jump the foot and become a
hazard. It’s a good excuse to maintain your rigging. In your case, the
mast could survive a windward upper shroud parting probably if the winds
weren’t too great and the driver was quick on the helm. Ours might not and
take out a lot more than just the mast. That’s why your tank is where it
is, because it can’t be anywhere else.In our boats, there is a rather heavy athwart ships beam that transfers
both the vertical and horizontal loads to the hull. Because the boat is
essentially one box beam (in mechanical terms) whether the load is applied
to the top or the bottom of the beam is of no difference (ignoring the
torque that would tend to pitch the beam or wrack it). The mast foot in
the cockpit does transfer the load quite nicely as a deck stepped main
would also do. From a purely observational view, the boat does quite
handily with mizzen and jib. It will sail with just the mizzen but not
terribly well because it is so far from the center of lateral resistance.I studied physics, too, but have confirmed the deck stepped mizzen
experimentally. 🙂Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 1:39 PM, Thatcher A. Stone – Confidential Attorney
Communication wrote:Quote:This is a special layout. And just from a pure sailing theory point of
view,
the pressure from the mizzen would need to be laterally displaced by the
keel to provide forward motion. Not sure the cockpit floor would convert
the
lateral wind pressure into forward moment. But then, I studied physics.
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Well there is a really hefty beam running laterally below the cockpit
floor where the mizzen stands and that beam is supported by large
vertical beams.Pete
On 5/15/2013 10:39 AM, Thatcher A. Stone – Confidential Attorney
Communication wrote:Quote:This is a special layout. And just from a pure sailing theory point of view,
the pressure from the mizzen would need to be laterally displaced by the
keel to provide forward motion. Not sure the cockpit floor would convert the
lateral wind pressure into forward moment. But then, I studied physics.
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Not on my boat… it sits on a shoe on the cockpit floor.
Pete
On 5/15/2013 8:00 AM, Thatcher A. Stone – Confidential Attorney
Communication wrote:Quote:It isn’t. It goes through the mizzen partners in the cockpit floor and is
secured to the hull below.
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Tor… always speaks the truth.
On 4/11/2013 5:51 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:If only it were that simple. Sometimes it’s a matter of time, priorities or
logistics – or well-earned laziness; often it’s recognizing your own
strengths and shortcomings. Some in this group have paid big bucks to boat
yards and specialists for things I do myself as a matter of course. Others
among us think nothing of tackling jobs that are beyond what I know or want
to learn. In the long run we all Do, and we all Pay.Ain’t boating great?
🙂
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Those who think they can, can.
Those who are convinced they can’t, pay.If you think you can, or you think you can’t, you are probably right.
Thomas Edison.On 4/11/2013 3:30 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Those that can, do. Those that can’t, pay.Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 10, 2013, at 11:21 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:That’s a lot of money to turn a few nuts/bolts and press in a new seal…On 4/10/2013 7:48 AM, wrote:
Quote:I sent my velvet drive out for service a couple of years ago when a seal started leaking. I forget what I paid for the service but it was around $300. A full rebuild might cost twice that. Removal and reinstallation of the transmission is fairly simple. You may have to slide your v-drive forward a bit if you can’t manage to disconnect the drive shaft. This would require re-alignment which is a bit of a pain.Rich
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That’s a lot of money to turn a few nuts/bolts and press in a new seal…
On 4/10/2013 7:48 AM, wrote:
Quote:I sent my velvet drive out for service a couple of years ago when a seal started leaking. I forget what I paid for the service but it was around $300. A full rebuild might cost twice that. Removal and reinstallation of the transmission is fairly simple. You may have to slide your v-drive forward a bit if you can’t manage to disconnect the drive shaft. This would require re-alignment which is a bit of a pain.Rich
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Tor,
I would assume that the Paragon tranny works like the Velvet Drive and
has a bunch of plates in it that are pushed together when in gear and
allowed to slide past each other when out of gear. The screeching
might have been them sliding against each other instead of immediately
engaging each other.As to rebuilding these trannys, it is easy work. They are not at all
complex like multi-speed car transmissions. The Velvet Drive repair
manual and rebuild parts kit is readily available and perhaps the same
is the case for the Paragon. Before you are extorted by a mechanic,
see if you can find the manual and give it a read. It you can turn a
wrench and screwdriver, have a set of snap ring pliers for the internal
and external snap rings, and can stack parts in the same order you take
them out then you can rebuild one of these trannys.Pete
On 4/9/2013 7:58 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Yeah, it’s the tranny. I’d just like to know for sure before I spend the
bucks.And as far as the islands go, hey, what’ve we got left? Fifty, maybe sixty
more years? Might as well have a good time.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Rodd,
I replaced all of my seacocks and the backing boards not too long ago.
(Went to Marelon, see plastics article in Blue Water Sailing). None of
the bolts went through the hull. They were all just in the backing
board. As to removing the seacock, I used an angle grinder to grind
off the mushroom head of the of the thru-hulls flush to the exterior of
the boat. With the nuts removed from the bolts, I then just pushed
(large dowel like piece of an old baseball bat, and a hammer) the
thru-hull and valve up into the boat. I made new, thicker pads out of
white oak, sealed with CWF and several coats of epoxy before 5200 glued
them to the hull. I used flush tapered thru hulls instead of mushrooms
for a much fairer hull. No thru-bolts, the thru-hulls hold the
valves. Screws into the oak keep the valve from turning when the levers
are pulled.Pete
On 3/30/2013 6:47 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Gents-
Went to clean bonding wires on a one inch thru hull and wound up turning the bolt with the nut that is coming up through the seacock base! Do you think the bolt is on the bottom of the boat, or below the glassed in backing pads Pearson has installed under each seacock? If it’s through from the bottom, I can tap the bolt with a hammer and try to knock it out the bottom– my fear is if it was glassed in under the backing plate, but inside the hull, then I don’t want to hammer it down, or I’ll put a new hole in the hull !!
Can anyone with an early 80’s boat tell me if they know how Pearson was installing these bolts? Were they put in from the bottom, counter sunk and filled, or were they put under the built up pads Pearson used which they mounted the seacock on? Not sure what to do at this point!
Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker 1983 #214
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Will miss you and your wisdom Patrick!
fair winds and following seas,
Pete
On 3/28/2013 11:12 PM, Patrick Walters wrote:
Here’s a pic of the new owners.
http://deepplaya.com/pearson-424-hull-152s-new-owners-natasha-and-owen/Dawn and I will probably fade away from this list. Thanks to all of you for
all of your support and suggestions along the way. We couldn’t have done it
without you. We’ll be keeping the DeepPlaya.com domain and name for future
adventures so stay in touch.We’ll be in Honolulu on May 1st!
-Patrick
—
http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya | W7PEA
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And don’t forget the old oil from the last oil change at sea…
and WD-40, liquid wrench, spray silicon, drislide, mclube,…On 3/27/2013 9:39 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Man, I carry all kinds of oils:Yanmar Engine
Rotella 15w-40 motor oil – 5.5 quarts / change
BioBor diesel fuel treatment/preservative
Paragon Transmission
Ford Type F automatic transmission fluid – 2-3 quarts / change
Walter V-Drive
SAE 30 heavy-duty motor oil like Exxon XD-3 – 1 quart / change
Honda Generator
10w-30 detergent oil for 4-stroke engines – .45 quart / change
Yamaha Outboard Motor
2-cycle engine oil – .25 quart (8 oz.) / 3 gallons gasoline
Sta-Bil gasoline treatment/preservative
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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