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I have heard of folks using 30wt diesel engine oil for everything on the
boat: engine, v-drive, AND tranny. The trannys we use don’t “shift”
like the ones in our cars. They only do fwd, neutral, and rev. So, a
clean tranny (as in right after a rebuild) can use the 30wt engine oil
instead of transmission fluid. I wish I had done this when I rebuilt
my tranny (which by the way is a very easy job) (I do have gear oil in
my windlass though).Pete
On 3/27/2013 7:28 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:I can only find reference to SAE 30 wt, non-detergent motor oil in any of Google searches.Joe,
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That’s a drag Quent. Mine arrived in fine shape and works well.
Pete
On 3/22/2013 3:57 AM, quent wrote:
Alas, I feel the need to warn everyone on this product. If you buy it, test it immediately when you get it. As someone described on Amazon product reviews on this TV, if it has a major picture defect as mine did right out of the box, Naxa calls it a “cracked screen” and voids the warranty. There was no evidence of trauma on the TV or the packaging.
Had they not voided the warranty, it still would have to be shipped to California at my expense and I would also have to pay an additional $25.
JR has agreed to take it back, but only if it has bit of the original packaging.
A shame, really. This would a nice little TV if it worked and the company supported it.
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Need also to turn off the bilge pumps when they can freeze lest they
energize against a frozen impeller. (Burned one out that way not so
long ago :^(On 3/16/2013 6:14 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Bet you’re right, Quent. But if you did have a check valve in that hose
couldn’t you could just run a little anti-freeze through it for winter
storage?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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My boat leaks too much rain water into the bilge…
Pete
On 3/16/2013 7:52 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Well, I’m not likely to ever install that check valve anyway. The back-surge
isn’t enough to matter and as I said, I can remove it with the manual pump
down to <1/4" when I want to. Life is good.Tor
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Don’t confuse length of hose and head. Â Head is strictly the vertical lift, assuming the proper diameter of hose. Â Any bilge punk on the market will do. Â I use a small Whale automatic with their check valve to keep the bilge dry and a huge pump mounted higher up. Â Plus have a manual Whale in the aft wall of the cockpit well and a giant portable edson for doomsday. Â much debate on using check valves but if only on the baby pump and since it is the valve specified for the pump, I have no worries about it.
Pete
Sent from my Samsung smartphone on AT&TBead Game wrote:what submergable electric bilge pumps on the market today have adequate head to discharge overboard with about 10′ needed from the bottom of the bilge?
Any sugestions for mounting a manual bilge pump below the cabin sole? Do you plumb it in series the the cockpit mounted one?
Lee Hirsch
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Thanks Quent.
A few thoughts on these:
These are about 14.5 watts per sq ft and the price per watt is $1.50.
Here is the full data sheet:
http://www.grapesolar.com/index.php/products/modulesandkits/100ecoCompared to a 245 watt ET panel which sells for $248: 14 watts per sq ft
and $1.01 per wattSeems one pays a premium here for the 100 watt panel, but if the
dimensions work for you, the power density is the good. If you can use
a larger panel, like the ET (similar warranty, you get more watts for
you money.
http://www.wholesalesolar.com/products.folder/module-folder/ET/ET-P660245B.htmlGood discussion on how to wire these is found here:
http://www.grapesolar.com/files/4313/4910/4245/GS-S-100-Fab36_Guide.pdfPete
On 2/22/2013 5:34 PM, quent wrote:
Costco is selling 100 watt panels for $150!
http://www.costco.com/Grape-Solar-100W-Solar-Panel.product.100033918.html
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bet you can find one at http://www.mouser.com.
You can search on many parameters there and pull up the data sheets.
Also, their folks are very helpful. Perhaps you could send them the
photo. You likely don’t need one with a metal sleeve so I would stress
that you only care about matching the pin configuration.Pete
On 1/25/2013 8:17 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Anybody happen to have a spare power cable for a Magellan GPS NAV DLX-10? I
have an old-but-perfectly-serviceable receiver that needs a cord that isn’t
made or sold anymore.In lieu of a cord, I’d like to find the special 5-pin plug that connects to
the receiver so I can make up a cord myself. Radio shack doesn’t have ’em,
nor do several GPS stores online. Suggestions welcome.Thanks,
Tor
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Found this… http://l-36.com/turn.php maybe I should do the math…
Pete
On 1/20/2013 9:15 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
PS: photos are welcome…
off to pattern the new dodger…
Pete
On 1/20/2013 9:13 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I am in the last strokes of putting all the hardware back on the
cockpit coaming. I have some new gorgeous new Garhauer foot blocks
(turning blocks) and have out the main winches back in their original
(factory) location (sorry Tor, but could not figure out how to move
them further aft since I have spinnaker winches and a different
bimini arrangement).Along the way, I seem to have misplaced the blocks that went under
the orignal foot blocks. I will be making some new wedges out of
plasteak. Could anyone tell me the angles of the wedges on their
boats? The SB foot block on my boat is atop the coaming. The Port
one is on the side of the coaming.Thanks,
Pete
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PS: photos are welcome…
off to pattern the new dodger…
Pete
On 1/20/2013 9:13 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I am in the last strokes of putting all the hardware back on the
cockpit coaming. I have some new gorgeous new Garhauer foot blocks
(turning blocks) and have out the main winches back in their original
(factory) location (sorry Tor, but could not figure out how to move
them further aft since I have spinnaker winches and a different bimini
arrangement).Along the way, I seem to have misplaced the blocks that went under the
orignal foot blocks. I will be making some new wedges out of
plasteak. Could anyone tell me the angles of the wedges on their
boats? The SB foot block on my boat is atop the coaming. The Port
one is on the side of the coaming.Thanks,
Pete
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presumably different pump then W58 one. But I have a W58 if it will help.
If leaking by drive shaft to pump (not an atypical mode of failure), you
need to fix because it will thin out our crankcase oil).Pete
On 1/11/2013 1:59 PM, cstewart wrote:
This is a call to the “been there done that” guys out there. I have some new excitement today. My injector pump is leaking fuel at the rate on one drop per 3 seconds. Last year it was just damp. It didn’t heal.
What is the scope of the problem I am facing. Can you buy new pumps for the W60? Can you have it rebuilt? Is that a job that a handyman, but not mechanic like me can do or do I need to call the pros?
Thanks,
Charlie Stewart
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
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Objects deflect to the right in the northern hemisphere.
http://nsidc.org/arcticmet/images/factors/coriolis.gif
Chain on port side should pull to port… counteract deflection to the
right.I think…
but could (do you think) be over thinking this.
Now as to unicorns in the southern hemisphere, which way do their corns
curl?On 1/8/2013 6:58 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:True, Pete, but only in reverse.Quote:
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Chain on the PORT side might offset the Coriolis effect in the northern
hemisphere… but you might have to reverse after your Neptune party….Pete
On 1/8/2013 6:28 PM, kalinowski wrote:
A question for those of you that have divided their anchor locker along the boat centerline. I am at the point of cutting out the floor of the shallow anchor locker to open that area into one big compartment. I plan to store 300 feet of 3/8 chain on the starboard side and 280′ of 12 strand with 20′ of chain on the port side. A dock neighbor wondered if that chain rode weight would cause the boat to list to starboard. A suggested alternative would be to mount the divider between the two rodes transversally port to starboard, so the weight of the all chain rode would be more evenly balanced across the beam.
I would appreciate the benefit of your experience with this.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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The good need is that the blades asst probably able to be picked up with a magnet on the end of that tube. Â A for the stainless hardware I have dropped back there…extra ballast…
Sent from my Samsung smartphone on AT&TMiss Kathleen wrote:Guess I am going to have to find the blades as they had better not get up to mishief when bashing to weather!
The “fishing line” was a 25mm plastic pipe, just small enough to fit between the shower floor and ply base.
I think my next job will be to make a few more bilge hatches. I envy those yachts with full access to the bilges.
Dennis
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NIce fishing. I would have shaken the boat aggressively hoping the
jig saw blades would cut a hole in the plywood and release the lost
items to the bilge ;^)Pete
On 12/16/2012 12:24 PM, Miss Kathleen wrote:
I read with interest how, on installing a hatch in the shower, the number of folk who dropped the cut-out of the panel behind the shower – never to be seen again…..
This weekend I decided to replace the shower mixer and add a hatch in the shower. Whilst cutting the hole I lost a few jigsaw blades – never to be seen again.
I cut the hole, and was extremely proud that I was able to secure the cut-out before it disappeared.Fortunately I had chosen a large hatch, and was able to work behind the shower with relative ease. During the replacement of the mixer, and as I was finishing up, my head knocked the side of the hatch and my spectacles fell into the void behind the shower!
Now was the time to find where “never to be found again” actually is.
Dropped a flashlight into the void, only to find that there was no light beam in the bilges! The reality is that there is a plywood base under the shower pan that separates the shower base and the bilge. It is within that space that my glasses lay.Tried a vacuum cleaner, but to no avail – just dust. I was now in a panic as this mysterious void had gobbled up jigsaw blades, and now my glasses!
To cut a long story short, I probed with a piece of hose and eventually hooked the glasses!
Much relief.
The hatch is great, and the new mixer works a treat!
Dennis
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I think LED refers to the source of the back lighting (as opposed to
CCL). I think in either case it is an LCD, though it is listed as “LED”Oh yes, there are several model numbers. I called Naxa and found out
that the difference between the models is the stand design and glossy
versus flatter bezel. Otherwise the same electronics.Pete
On 12/15/2012 9:30 AM, quent wrote:
Pete-
Looks like a nice TV. J&R refers to it on their website as both an LED and a LCD. Which is right?
Thanks,
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