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Hello Patrick-
Oil heat exchanger hoses. I assume that you are leaking oil. We replaced these hoses on Clairebuoyant. They did not leak yet, but looked terrible.
The Westerbeke dealer replaced the hoses, reusing the threaded ends which saved a few bucks. Probably most auto parts stores or shops could do this.
You might want to remove and inspect the oil filter bracket assembly and the heat exchanger while you are at it, requires a gasket for the former, and replacing the engine coolant for the latter.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132Hi Rodd-
Two inch ID is what I measured on the spare W-58 I keep in the garage (long story!)
Being a cheapskate, I shop the remnant piles of hoses at West and marina stores. Maybe Defender up your way?
Lengths are from engine to muffler, then to transom.
If my memory is correct, the W-70 is almost the same engine as the W-58, but has 3″ exhaust hose and higher RPM, so I guess you could put a bigger elbow on with bigger hose, but I’m sure that 2″ ID exhaust is stock for the W-58.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Welcome back to the Bay, John. We keep Clairebuoyant on Whitehall Creek just north of Annapolis. We will be looking for you.
Be careful about swimming. The water quality is not as good as you remember it. Our family doc knows a guy who scratched his foot on a piling there in Solomons Island, and ended up losing his leg.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132Re saddle tanks, pretty standard stuff, from West Marine. 17 gallons, I think, so that adds about 34 gallons to capacity. Kind of wedge shaped, wider at top, rectangular profile, grey plastic. For a bit more money you can find similar in aluminum. They are port and starbord tanks that are mirror images. Muonted them against hull just aft of genoa winches with fills straight up. Tanks sit on plywood shelves glassed to the hull. They don’t really take up any space we were using, and don’t seem to affect trim. Had to add fuel return line in stb tank since it fuels the DC genset.
I plumbed each tank to the fuel cleaner system so that the pump pulls fuel from a saddle tank then through a big Racor filter and dumps it in main tank.
Only problem has been the fuel guage senders. One is defective and I haven’t figured out how to replace it without removing the tank from it’s shelf.
QuentThat might be Westerbeke 30125
http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&mfc=Westerbeke&sku=30125
I said “might” because this one appears to mount in upper t-stat housing. Other switches mount in lower housing including our engine. Apparently Westerbeke made some cooling system changes in 1981.
Suggest that you download Westerbeke manual and parts list for W-58 which are available for free as PDF docs on internet.
You might also try Ebay.
QuentThat might be Westerbeke 30125
http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&mfc=Westerbeke&sku=30125
I said “might” because this one appears to mount in upper t-stat housing. Other switches mount in lower housing including our engine. Apparently Westerbeke made some cooling system changes in 1981.
Suggest that you download Westerbeke manual and parts list for W-58 which are available for free as PDF docs on internet.
You might also try Ebay.
QuentSome additional thoughts on fuel tanks:
First, put a magnet on it to find out if the tank is aluminum or steel. If it is aluminum, it is probably intact or repairable. Our tank had pitting corrosion from the inside several of which penetrated the tank bottom as pinhole size leaks. The top and sides were good as new. We repaired our tank with West system epoxy and fiberglass, which is permitted under ABYC guidelines on non-ferrous fuel tanks.
After you remove, or move the engine forward several feet, the tank may or may not fit through the space. We had to remove some of the tank support structure to fit under the mizzen mast support beam which is there even if you have the sloop model. The tank just barely fit through the companionway.
We also added a couple saddle tanks outboard in the cockpit lockers for extra fuel capacity.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Old 5/16 shroud wire from we rerigged her. Used old Norsemen fittings, lashed the ends. Put new Staylocs on the rig. A little heavy for lifelines, but almost free. Spare shrouds in an emergency.
QuentI guess AGMs are good if you don’t want to bother checking water levels, but apparently thry are easy to ruin if the charging voltage gets too high. I’ve heard conflicting information about acceptance rates. Probably AGMs are not much easier to charge than wet cell batteries, tho’ we know at least on boat who fried the alternator charging AGMs.
We have 8 Interstate golf carts, and two 100 amp alternators. When they are down, we see charging rates as high as 150 amps, about 20% of bank capacity.
We got the first Interstate GCs in Georgia on the way south a couple years ago when our 5 year old Sams Club GCs gave out. They were the cheapest line, all the dealer had in stock. They were failing by the time we reach Vero Beach. Interstate to their credit replaced them all with their best batteries at no extra cost. Since we had to transfer them ashore by dinghy, we were glad we didn’t have heavier batteries.
The new Interstates have been fine,
After inspecting the returned batteries the local Interstate guy called me to say that I had overwatered the batteries by filling them to the fill mark. He said they should only be filled to just cover the plates. Have not heard that before or since.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132I think John is on to something. I looked at several spray paint cans in the garage and they all have flammable propellant.
Then I looked at the “freon” horn that I store on the boat. Also flammable propellant. It appears that propane has replaced CFC’s as propellant in spray paint and horns. All that trouble to put in a safe and legal propane system, and the USCG approved horn sitting on the nav station shelf has enough propane in its rusty can to blow up the boat.
QuentHi Adam-
W-60 manuals here:http://www.carpcoastalmarine.com/index.php/west_cat
Should answer your questions.
Best regards,
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132I agree with John. We have a 10′ Caribe RIB and a 15 hp 2 stroke Yamaha. Engine is same weight as a 9.9, and is still available new. We use a block and tackle hoist to move the engine buy I’m sure we’d do that with a smaller engine too. The dinghy is rated for up to 20 hp, but evrn 15 is overkill. We need at least two people to keep it on the water at full throttle.
It was nice in the Abacos for snorkling trips, or inter-island but unless you actually want a powerboat, it is a lot of weight to drag around on a sailboat.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132
