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quent
ParticipantPete-
The design is by Mazda, licensed to Perkins who used it for commercial, tractor and marine engines, but modified the Mazda design. Westerbeke bought base engines from Perkins and did their own marine conversion. There is some question of part compatability, including the head assembly between the Perkins and the Westerbeke.
I have a dissembled W-58 in the garage. One interesting thing is that the head gasket shown in the W-58 Parts List is for the W-52, and vice versa.
It looks like the W-52 and W-58 do not use the same injectors. I’ve not seen a Perkins 4-154.
Quentquent
ParticipantAdam-
Jabsco sells a nice little mag drive pump that only draws a couple amps and handles hot water. It is also used by Mercedes.
I just ran power for the pump from a switch near the heater. Our pump is in the supply line near the heater, but closer to the engine would be better regarding the airlock problem.
I made the switch independent of the engine because sometimes you don’t need the heater, and other times you want to suck every last bit of engine heat into the cabin after you shut down.
If John baker (GTG) doesn’t have a W-60 pattern, you might have to find him an old head gasket to copy. I was happy with his work on the W-58.
Quentquent
ParticipantAdam-
Look for loss of coolant, exhaust gas bubbles, or oil in the coolant for head gasket problem. If it is fuel and not a head gasket leak, it could be a fuel injector problem.
Quentquent
ParticipantTry Gaskets-to-go either Google their website or on Ebay. They made a couple W-58 head gaskets for me. Actually, since he didn’t have a W-58 gasket to copy, he made the first one free. Way less money than the factory.
Re the heater, we installed a 12 volt circulator pump.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132quent
ParticipantEither your new engine is MUCH lighter, or your new tach is reading low.
Best regards,
Quentquent
ParticipantLee and Mike-
Sorry I haven’t gotten to this sooner as promised, been kind of preoccupied lately. If you are both going to be around Annapolis re Boatshow, maybe we can do something then?
Quentquent
ParticipantIn the Chesapeake summer, if you run engine or genset when the boat is not in motion, cloging the water intake with jellyfish is not uncommon. External strainers help if they are large enough.
Quentquent
ParticipantPatrick-
One nice thing about the Edson pumps is that they are high quality, overbuilt, and, if bronze, last forever. The used gear stores have them frequently much cheaper than new.
I have one in the basement that I bought for $100, and have yet to install. I’m thinking of mounting it on a piece of plywood same size as cabin sole hatch by the galley so that worst case scenario, I can hang onto the ladder to fwd companionway, pump and pray at the same time.
Maybe make a special short handle for the small bilge jerk.
Quentquent
ParticipantI don’t think I’d do it. If you are taking water that bad, why put the engine cooling system at risk by pumping bilge water and small debris through it??
If the engine runs, you still have electric, so add a second electric bilge pump. You could add an independent engine drive pump, but they are pricey. Carry a bucket.
Quentquent
ParticipantJohn makes a good point. Also when you clean the water strainer, then open the seacock to see if water flows in.
When you replaced the impeller, was it missing any parts? Sometimes pieces of rubber will lodge in the pump in or out connections.
Quentquent
ParticipantGood morning Jim-
As much as I hate suggesting more expense, since you have the trans out, take a good look at the vibration damper. If you look inside the bell housing, that is the disc shaped part into which the splined shaft from the trans connects. The springs in it should be firmly attached, not loose or missing.
Also check out the trans heat exchanger, maybe even replace it on principle. They aren’t too expensive, but failure will wreck your new trans.
Quentquent
ParticipantI’ve found that Globe impellers, the blue ones, hold up better than the Sherwood ones, and are a little less expensive. Defender and Hamilton both have them to fit the W-58’s rw pump.
Quentquent
ParticipantReflecting a little on this, I bet the forward drive clutch is stuck in the engaged position. This would explain the symptoms. Probably a rebuilt ecxchange would be the best bet.
Quentquent
ParticipantYou probably have a model 71c Warner hydraulic transmission. A hydraulc trans only engages when the engine is running and engages the internal pump. Something is siezed in your transmission. Suggest you call or e-mail these folks who have helped me in the pasthttp://www.marinegears.com/techchat/
Sometimes the vibration damper breaks and jambs, but that would probably affect forward and reverse.
The Warner is basically a stripped down version of a Chevy Powerglide. Most transmission shops work on them and it is widely available as a rebuilt. Get some diagnostic advice before you pull it out.
Quentquent
ParticipantHi Linus-
I find the fiberglass in Gemini Catamarans’ dumpster. Basically it is cutouts and rejected parts made of laminate about 1/4″ thick. The plates are about 50% bigger than the SS cover plates.
Yes, the screws stick out on the bottom, maybe 1/8″. This just makes space for caulk to form a gasket. Re type of caulk, the jury’s still out. 5200 sticks better, but silicon is more elastic. Bottom line is that you get more caulk around the chainplate, but it is still far from perfect. If Pearson had bothered to align the chainplate to the shroud angle, the chainplate would not move. They didn’t, so it does move. Things that move leak, and eventually they break.
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