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A pressure washer, pref. hooked up to hot water helps. For routine maintenance, after the black crud has been dealt with, we have had good luck with Clean Water Solutions microbial power to eat the occasional oil spill that makes its way to the bilge. Got it from Hamilton Marine.
QuentWe did that, with knobby carpet from Home Depot. Mixed results. Bunk sides worked well, and provided a bit of insulation, but overhead, the carpet is just too heavy to stay up with any kind of glue that we could find. We will replace it with something thinner and lighter.
QuentI agree with Rich, but I’d take it a step further. Clairebuoyant was rode hard and put away wet long before we got her. These shelves were broken away not only against the forward bulkhead, but also the longitudinal tabbing as well.
At the v-berth integral water tank and below, things seem pretty beefy, but there was at least one instance of structural damage on the lower sides just aft of the water tank that I heard about. IMHO, any boat with a bow thruster in this location ought to keep a close watch on this location.
NPYOA once had a letter on the 424 oil canning issue addressed by Bill Shaw. Perhaps someone with better archives than me can find it. I think he suggested a reenforcement of several layers of mat and woven roving and 1/4″ of balsa core in the middle for stiffness. We did this, but have not really tested it.
The tabbing along the galley shelves was also broken away, but this might have been storm damage.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132John-
Are you talking about thesmall Bomar port? If so, I have someback in Maryland. Also, try Bacon’s. They usually have some opening Bomars both new and used.
QuentJohn-
We have two banks of four golf car wet cells on Clairebuoyant, one just behind where the 4Ds used to be, and one under the qtr berth. The quik-fill idea is interesting, but I wonder how well it would work if you try to run an equalizing mode on the batteries, with attendant gassing.
The boat has kind of evolvedrebattery location. first four golf car batteries in the original 4Ds location, then four in a box over the keel like Rich. When we reinstalled a holding tank and a DC genset (currently disfunctional) where the 4Ds used to be, we built fiberglass boxes at the present locations.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, lying Velcro Beach, FLWe have a C-80 and Nexus insturments at the wheel on pods attached to the ped guard. Claire just barely sees over the display. C-80 is lower, just above compass.
We have sailed boats with C-80 or E-80 mounted on forward end of cockpit. It is difficult to read with bifocals and a stiff neck. At the wheel is much better.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Hi John-
Our little Kubota DC genset crapped out here in Vero Beach, and the local turned a small problem into a large one. We are going with what appears to be a common remedy. For the price of two service calls, we are getting a Honda generator. They appear to be everywhere down here. Their gentle hum is a complimentary background to the ever present “no-see-um” bugs.
Quent
Lying Vero Beach, eventually bound for AbacosRE brushes to clean heat exchanger tubes, Harbor Freight has a set with brushes the right size for a few bucks.
QuentHi Tor-
We have a 1/2 hp mongrel. The motor/compressor/condenser is probably Gunert, Holding plates are Dole, bits and pieces from Rparts.com. Water pump is a Aqua Tiger from Shurflow @ 6 gal/minute. This seems like overkill, but it shortens the compressor run time.
The original space is a frig, the space between stove and sink is a freezer. Much insulation, at least 8″ everywhere from Home Depot. Just before we left I added vacuum panels from Rparts to both lids. It made a big difference, as did keeping both boxes full, and closed.
We also had an engine drive system, but I pulled it out and put in an extra alternator.
QuentUsually, once a year. This year more often since we went south and put a lot more water through the system. I replaced the end bolts with stainless steel which seems to be pretty compatable with the bronze heat exchanger.
QuentOn Clairebuoyant, we have four 80 watt Sharp panels mounted over the aft part of the bimini, aft of the boom. We’re getting about 12 amps here right now, in Vero Beach FL.
Bought them from Costco.com as two 160 watt sets, with two Sunforce controllers, and two little 100 watt inverters for about $2000. Got some 1″ ss tubing and a Harbor Freight pipe bender and made the support.
The panels are about 21″ by 48″. They just about cover the refrigeration electric needs if we don’t go in there too often.
QuentWould that be the zinc near the end of the heat exchanger? If so, I think it is a standard size pencil zinc on a brass plug. Probably you will have to shorten it a bit. Rich is right, West sells this stuff, but I’d replace the brass plug as well.
Take the ends off and clean out the zinc debris in the cooling tubes. Also take a good look at the two screws that hold the ends on (unless you have the flanged multiple bolt design heat exchanger) since Westerbeke states that they are brass. Without effective zinc protection, they could fail and could flood the boat.
QuentLee-
If I remember correctly, there are several approaches expressed re backstay chainplates and transom reenforcement. Mine was to add a large but tapered patch of fiberglass inside the transom, including the inward flange at the hull/deck connection which greatly stiffed the transom center. The replacement chainplate was (I think) 3/8 by 2″ stainless bar stock. I used 316, but would probably use one of the duplex alloys in retrospect because 316 is less strong that 302/304, and no more resistant to stress corrosion cracking.
We have a sloop with a single backstay. Ketch rig, or if you opt for double or split backstay, your decision may well differ.
Quent
