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Good morning, Tor!
Well, at least you’ll have a way to emergency steer if water gets in through the hole.
Sort of like putting zippers in your bimini so you can remove it to replace the zippers.
Like I should talk. I’m sitting here waiting for the tree guy instead of going sailing.
QRe holes and padeyes:
The P-424 has a 1.5″ solid rudder shaft. It’s reasonable to assume that there are some horizontal bars welded on it inside the rudder.
The biggest risk is that water gets inside the rudder, and corrodes the welds and causes the rudder shaft to shear loose from the rudder.
I’d be careful about drilling holes in the rudder that will be under water.
QuentAlan-
I replaced it on our W-58. We were leaking pretty bad, to the point that oil was accumulating in the bellhousing, getting thrown around by the flywheel and gumming up the starter.
I’d say it depends on how bad it’s leaking, bearing in mind that it won’t cure itself.
We used the standard seal from Westerbeke which is the same as on the W-40. Not too bad a job it you are going to move the engine anyway, and remove the transmission and starter. Then you need to remove the flywheel to get to the seal. Have not had a problen since.
Foley Engines has a special seal for more money for the Perkins 4108 that should fit the W-58. We didn’t use it, but it looked interesting. I’ve not shopped at Foley, so I can’t comment on their customer service, but others have strong views.
QuentTor
We replumbed Clairebuoyant this spring. Went to home depot and got 1/2″ pex tubing. Cheaper than “marine.” Started with sharkbite fittings, which just push together and are reusable. We use them a lot in the house since our copper pipe doesn’t much get along with well water.
About halfway done, switched to a pex brand crimping tool, pex L and T brass connectors and copper sleeves. Much cheaper but access space can be problematic. For connections used pex tubing to 1/2″ male thread adapters, then the braided connectors used to connect kitchen or bathroom faucets. They also have nice shut off valves that crimp in line,
If you are Amazon prime member, you can save a little from the home depot price.
Connecting the hot water heater, you will need braided hoses that are 1/2″ tapered pipe thread on both ends. Only found them at Amazon.
No leaks, no crappy plastic.
QuentAdam
My blocks are what Garhauer called low lead blocks. They worked fine as long as the sheet lead was close to aligned with the track, but rubbed on the cheeks if the sheet lead crossed the track. You could remedy with a second track block, but why bother?
QuentCarried over a pair of Garhauer Genoa blocks from prior boat, a Pearson 36. Wonderful gear. However the sheet lead on the 424 was too angled from the track for the car to work properly. Suggest you try before you buy.
Quent
s/v ClairebuoyantTor-
The problem is where you sail. The hot salty environment of the Caribbean is especially hard on stainless steel. You didn’t mention how well the machine screws were holding up, or the washers.
Using 316 alloy will be at least marginally better than 8-18. Do the nuts have to be acorn nuts? Using 316 hex nuts with thread lock, or 316 nylock nuts would be significantly less expensive and easier to inspect.
QTor
Suggest that you do a Google search for 316 stainless steel fasteners. This alloy is a bit more corrosion resistant than the generic Chinese stainless stuff available most places.
When you buy it, take a magnet and reject any that are attracted to the magnet. That’s a sure sign of stainless alloys inappropriate for your purposes.
QuentHi Pat
Stuff you want is on the internet and probably known to sailmakers. As I recall, sloops and cutters all used taller rig, including the ones with Hood in mast furling. The later sloops and all the cutters stepped the mast further aft, ingeniously by reversing the salon table made it fit. It appears that all the booms were the same length regardless of mast position.
QuentI agree with Rich. Sometimes, even free in not cheap enough. If somebody wants to part her out, maybe I’ll buy the mizzen so I can be a “real sailor.”
QHello Jason
we have the early sloop version and are quite happy with it. This is simply the ketch rig without the mizzen. Later sloops resembled the cutter rig with the mast about two feet further aft.
However, we have modified it a bit. We have Hood in mast furling which means no battens and no roach on the main. We added a longer boom to increase sail area, and added self tacking mechanism to the jib. Under 10 knots, she is a bit under canvased, over that she sails nicely.
I agree that removing the mizzen from an existing ketch rig is not a good idea, but there is nothing wrong with the sloop rig that can’t be fixed with a longer boom or a bigger headsail.
Not having a mizzen also makes for a nice unobstructed cockpit.
Quent
S/V Clairebuoyant #132
