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Not that this addresses the issue, but a local marine store sells the same fixture and has replacement bulbs. I think its old stock.
I replaced the two fixtures above the aft bunk last year because they didn’t work well. I’m considering LED replacements and would also be interested to hear if someone comes up with a solution. I also have one in my nav station.
Regards
Rich
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Trex comes in a teak(ish) color. You can just power-wash it when it gets
dirty and let it weather. I’ve considered it for various projects.Rich
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I wonder if you folks have a lot more time than me. I hand painted my
spars about 10 years ago. They had chipped. The primer was showing
through, and they generall looked like crap from a hundred yards away. I
lightly sanded and applied a coat of 1-part polyurithane paint. What a
difference it made! If you got real close, you could see brush-marks, but
from 10 feet it looked as good as any spray-job. Oddly, you can only see
about the bottom 15 feet of the spar closer than 10 feet even if you get
your nose right up to the mast 😉 The boom is covered when at anchor,
leaving only a few short feet for a nosey nighbor to see even if they come
aboard. When under sail, nobody notices brush marks. The 1-part paint
lasts about 5 years or so. Then it has to be renewed. I can paint my main
mast and boom in about 4 hours with a brush. If the teak were this easy, I
wouldn’t be moaning about it.I was just kidding about using house paint on the teak. I’ve been tempted
though. It seems that I spend half my maintenace time on the brightwork.
I’ve tried all kinds of products. Nothing looks good after the first year.
I have better things to do than sand, clean, paint, repeat.Rich
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As an experiment, I tried coating the combing deck trim with epoxy followed by three coats of epifanes last year. It worked pretty well for the summer. Varnished teak looks great when its maintained. I keep the boat covered during the winter layup period. I went up on the boat last week and to my disappointment the varnish has separated from the wood. Its turned yellow. It will all have to be stripped and redone. I don’t know what I’ll do. I’ve used cetol for years, but it builds up and darkens. The it starts lifting and makes a mottled mess out of the brightwork. Back to square-1 every three years or so with sandpaper and teak cleaner. I’ve considered sealing it with varnish and then applying brown house paint over the varnish. The varnish would prevent the paint from getting into the wood grain should I later change my mind. If I chose the paint well it would probably look OK from 50 feet. If someone wants to get closer and bitch about my brightwork I’d be happy to hand them a paintbrush.
Regards
Rich
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Its good for them but not so good for you. Their asking $76 for a $20 part. Check for a loose connection at the top of the sensor. That would cause the needle to peg if its open. A little PB-blaster on the connection might help.
Rich
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John
Odd that you have vibration at idle speed. I don’t think I run the engine in gear at idle so I can’t comment. I have a folding prop, so idle isn’t a good choice. According to my seatrial notes, I’d be doing 2.5 kts at idle. I need to run at at least 1000 RPM for the alternator and refrigeration compressor to work right. That’s about 3kts. I’ve got a lower gear ration in my V-drive, so you’re pushing the prop a little harder at low speed. I don’t think I ever run the engine at idle unless I’m shifting gears.From my experience, if I’m just slightly out of alignment, the boat will vibrate at high speed, about 1000 shaft RPM. With a 2:1 gear reduction for a typical RV-20, that would be about 2000 engine RPM, maybe a little less depending on how far out you are. That’s probably at about 6.7 to 7.0 kts depending on sea-state. As I recall, it would smooth out if I backed off to about 6.5kts. With the alignment correct, the boat runs pretty smooth all the way up to hull speed.
Rich
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John,
From my experience, even though the gap is small, you may have some vibration at high shaft speeds. I think .003 is within the V-drive alignment tolerance, but its almost impossible to get the darn thing aligned that close as it is. If you add .003 to your best effort, I think you’ll be out of spec.
As discussed in great length, the RV-26 is not a direct drop-in replacement. I agree that its not practical to toss money at the old RV-20 since the cases are no longer available so you’re stuck. Once you replace the thing, you should be home-free. Feel free to call me if you have problems retro-fitting the v-drive. I think the most difficult part was removing the ole splined shaft from the jack-shaft. You’ll be tossing the old splined shaft. If it won’t budge, Weld a bolt to the end of the thing and slip a pipe down its length. Then drop a washer over it and a nut. Tighten the nut to pull the shaft out.
Regards
Rich
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Dan
I suggest checking with the instrument manufacturer to see which resistance sender you need. This can normally be done online using the instrument number. Then pull the sender and drive on over to the nearest auto-parts store. He can probably match the threads and resistance with a generic automotive sender. Chances are the threads are a standard 3/8 pipe-thread. I don’t have a W58, so I’m not sure.Regards
Rich
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John
Exact length varies somewhat by propeller and may vary slightly from boat to boat. Having a little variation in the coupling gap is most likely caused by a bent shaft but not always. Your coupling may be bent. I suggest pulling the shaft and send it out to a prop shop that specializes in shafts. They can check the shaft to see if its true and can remachine an exact replacement. Before you pull the shaft, measure the distance between the prop and the strut. Discuss this with your prop shop to see if its correct. The new shaft may need to be a slightly different length to adjust this correctly. This distance is critical to smooth operation. Now would be a good time to consider adding a line cutter as it requires a little more space between strut and prop. Its also a good time to consider a dripless stuffing box since the shaft will be out.You should send out your coupling too. If they say that the shaft and coupling are both OK, you may have a bent flange on your V-drive. The coupling or V-drive flange can get bent if someone tries to remove the shaft improperly. A common way to remove the shaft is to separate the coupling by about 3 inches and stick a socket in there. Tightening the screws will then force the shaft to slip out of the coupling. If care isn’t taken to tighten the screws evenly, its easy to bend the coupling and/or V-drive flange.
Regards
Rich
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Don,
Your posting got to me. We’ve been without power and more importantly internet access for the past few days. I didn’t notice the lack of activity. Lets talk about boats. “There is nothing–absolutely nothing–half so much worth doing as simply messing around in boats,”Regards
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Adam
Your engine will continue to run anyway as long as you have enough fuel to gravity-feed the high-pressure pump and if you don’t get air in the fuel lines. I don’t know home much fuel you need for gravity to work, probably about a quarter tank or more. I know this to be a fact because my lift pump failed many years ago. The engine continued to run because I never let the tank run low. Priming the high-pressure pump was almost impossible. The lift-pump on the W60 is just below the coolant overflow for the coolant tank. Any coolant overflow drips on the pump. This causes the pump to eventually rust. I suggest putting in an overflow tank, even if you don’t replace the pump.Rich
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I can confidently state that there is no bearing in the stern tube of my 424.
Rich
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Adam
You don’t need a lift pump. Can you send it back? Replace the thing with an inexpensive electric fuel pump. I think they run about $30 at the local auto parts store.Rich – KE1EV
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Pete
I went up on the boat and took the following photo. Not much to see. There’s a box glassed in under the sole with a pegboard lid to keep the batteries in place should the boat roll-over. There’s enough room for four golf-cart batteries. The engine-starter battery is located elsewhere.Rich
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The 1:1 velvet drive is pretty common. The RV-26 is available with various gear reductions. Most 424’s use 2:1 but 2.5:1 has some advantages. If the pair are in good condition and if you don’t have to change the gear reduction in the v-drive, $2k seems reasonable.
Rich
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