Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Bob
Its not the voltage rating. I think there are isolation diodes in the buzzer. The instrument panel has four idiot lights. The four wires from the lights also go to four wires on the buzzer. If there weren’t diodes in there, this would short the four idiot lights together so they would all come on in any failure.Regards
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Phil
Are you comfortably familiar with the bleed process for this engine? If not, it is likely that you need to bleed the system. If you want hints for doing this, just ask.If it turns out to be a pump problem, I don’t recommend replacing the injection pump. The unit is too expensive. If you’re going to spend that kind of money I suggest putting it toward a repower instead. Someone may have a used pump from a spare engine however.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor and Linus,
Below are resistance values for various wire sizes.AWG ohm/kft
00 0.0779
0 0.0983
2 0.1563
4 0.2485
6 0.3951If you assume a 40 foot run and a 50A nominal load with 6AWG wire, you would have about a 0.8 volt drop in both the positive and negative wires if all current is supplied by your alternator. If you are running your engine when you use your windlass, your alternator will try to supply 13.8v. To make this short, I would expect your bow battery to supply about 10A at 12.2v and your alternator will supply about 40A at 13.4v. This all depends on the type and condition of the forward battery at the time you operate the windlass. Your mileage may vary. An AGM battery in good condition would be the best case.
Make sure that you don’t connect any part of the negative power leads to your bow battery or windlass to the bonding system in your boat or you will experience electrolysis of your forward fittings. Things are worse when you start a cold engine with a weak battery assuming that the bow battery connects to the same circuit as your starter.
If you don’t run your engine when operating your windlass, the windlass will get less power.
I don’t favor a forward battery and recommend 2/0 wire instead. This wire will lose only about 1/10v in each direction. Heavy wire such as this is difficult to run and expensive to purchase so many folks opt for the forward battery instead.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
There is a common problem with boats with deep sumps such as the 424. If water fills the sump area during winter layup, it will expand when freezing and crack the back of the keel. Water can get in any number of ways including a hose failure or just rainwater through the locker lids and engine dorade vents. Hose failure can occur if water accumulates inside the hose until it gets clogged with ice. Once the bottom of the hose gets blocked, the upper section will fill with water. This may split the hose open when it freezes. I throw some rock-salt in the deck drains every now and then if it looks like ice is building up in there. I’ve had three-foot long icicles hanging from my through-hulls. The worst offender is the copper drain pipe in the propane locker. This can get blocked very easilly and will split open if water freezes in there.
There isn’t much you can do to keep all water out of your bilge during wither layup. I toss a couple of gallons of anti-freeze down there to keep the ice from freezing solid. If I’m careful about maintaining the boat during storage, I only get a couple of gallons of water down there during the winter.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dan
I replaced mine along with everything else. Notes found at http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/index.html
The original uses a swing-arm type transducer. It drops slowly as fuel is consumed first, then rapidly close to the bottom. This is partly due to the design of the tank where it gets smaller toward the bottom. The replacement transducer is electronic and slides up and down a tube. The slider provides a more linear relationship to fuel level. The fuel gauge is on the instrument cluster. Looking through that stupid peep-hole to see fuel level was stupid.Regards
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I have waterproof (polyplanar) speakers mounted in the bridge-deck. They work fine and are watertight but come with plastic grills. Its pretty easy to kick them by accident. If you do, the plastic grill will break. They can usually be glued back together. Still, I endup replacing them every few years.
Rich
BlackSheep #47
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Howard
That doesn’t sound right. You should have a clutch release on the gypsy; otherwise, how are you supposed to operate the damn thing if your motor fails? My Lofrans has a clutch release for dropping the anchor and a manual handle for pulling it up. Good luck with the handle. It would take forever to retrieve an anchor.Over a period of years, the brushes on the motor will stick from corrosion. Assuming that yours is built similar to mine, the fix is pretty simple. Open up the motor housing and examine the brushes. You should see two pair, one for up and one for down. Use a test light or voltmeter to insure that power is getting to one brush when activated up and another when activated down. The other two should be ground and should not have any voltage on them when operating. Assuming that this checks out OK, remove the brushes. Removal can be difficult if they are corroded in place. Use needle-nose pliers to pull them out. A little PB blaster might help. Don’t lose the parts. Polish the brushes with fine sandpaper and reinsall the same way they came out. Oil on the motor amature isn’t always a good thing, so try and wipe it clean with some denatured alcohol. After servicing the motor, watch out! It will operate a lot faster than you are used to. If you damage a brush, bring it to a starter motor rebuilder. They should be able to match it. Mine are from a Bosche starter motor.
If power isn’t getting to the brushes properly, your problem is in the wiring, possibly a bad solenoid switch.
Hope this helps
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
James
You should be able to do it by eye. Just make sure the belts align with the pulley.Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob
You can move the tape until the water dries. Just slide it up and down until its straight.Rich
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Here’s what I do for vinyl boat lettering. I see no reason this wouldn’t work for bootstripe tape. For removal, heat the vinyl with a heat-gun to soften the adhesive.
- Create a Liquid Soapy Water Mixture: Mix 1 drop (about 1/2 teaspoon) of dish soap with 32 oz. of water. Mix in a spray bottle.
- Prepare mix before you begin application.
- * Spray a liberal amount of soap & water mixture on the surface to which you are applying the vinyl AND the adhesive side of the vinyl – first remove the paper backing.
- ** Squeegee out the water. Allow the water to completely dry before removing the transfer tape.
Regards
Rich
BackSheep #47
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Is this an electric windlass or manual? If electric, is it a reversing motor?
In any case, there should be a clutch release on the windlass. Its a nut with three prongs like they put on the hubs of old race cars. Loosen the nut and the clutch drops the chain.
Rich
BlackSheep #47Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I recommend the SGC-230 smart-tuner. HRO $500 free shipping.
http://www.hamradio.com/Most random wire tuners are designed to be specific to a particular brand of radio. Icom tuners work with Icom rigs, but not Kenwood or Yaesu rigs. The SGC tuner will work with anyone’s radio however. This allows you to change your radio later to a different brand without having to replace your expensive tuner.
To make this work right, you should add a tuner indicator so you can see when the tuner completes tuning. I made mine from a simple LED from Radio Shack ($2). You connect the red wire to 12v and the black wire to the tuning indicator wire in the tuner harness. You must also connect the power and ground wire in the same harness.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062569You should purchase a tunerite plug-in so that your radio will send the appropriate tone when pressing the tune button ($18). They make one for the 718.
http://www.qsradio.com/TuneRite.htmRegards
Rich KE1EV
BlackSheep #47
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
As I remember, the W60 took a generic diesel glow-plug, figure $50 ea.
You’re at the point I was three years ago. I kept throwing money at the old engine. Parts were getting ridiculously expensive and it wasn’t running all that well. At some point you have to cut your losses. Once you start replacing stuff it can get very expensive however. Its hard to stop until everything is replaced. One thing leads to another and before you know it the bill just for parts is out of sight.
Good luck
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Oops, sorry, 202 is the right stuff, not 2333n. Got my jugs mixed up.
If its your bottom you’re cleaning, here’s a link to the interlux instructions.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/USA/hotlinks/fiberglass_paintguide.pdf
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum