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I have precisely the same issue. I’ve never been able to adequately reach the head seacock. The last time I replaced the head hose, I cursed and swore about the guy who came up with that design. This has me thinking. The head is on a short platform that is fastened to the cabin sole in the head. It wold be straightforward to cut an access hole under the platform to reach the through-hull for service. I’d have to remove the head, but that’s probably part of whatever project requires that kind of access to the valve.
I have another through-hull under the aft bunk for my refrigeration cooling water. Whoever installed that one put it right against the bulkhead so the valve can’t be closed.
The engine cooling water intake seacock used to hit against the strainer before it could be completely closed. This was fixed by replacing the strainer and getting rid of the damn elbow.
Rich
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Chuck
I don’t think the patina is a problem. That’s what’s supposed to happen and how copper alloys protect themselves.You can grease most seacocks by removing a plug on the side of the valve and temporarily replacing it with a grease fitting. Then pump some grease in there and work the valve a few times.
The hoses on our boats have been discussed in earlier threads. Briefly, you should replace them all every decade or so. Access to the hose and thru-hull under the galley sink is easier if you cut an access hatch under the sink. Its otherwise almost impossible to reach.
Watch out for brass fittings below the water line. Bronze is more appropriate, but Pearson may have used brass for pipe nipples.
If your engine intake fitting has an elbow in it, get rid of the elbow. Stuff gets stuck in there.
Rich
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Its my understanding that later hulls are balsa-cored. I don’t know when Pearson switched to cored hulls. In theory, this would provide a stiffer hull. I doublt that it would prevent the oil-canning problem since the forward hull section is flat. I would still recommend reinforcing the forward sections.
Rich
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Tor
4:1, I assume you mixed a quart with each gallon. Did the color come out close to the nonskid color already on the deck?Rich
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As I mentioned earlier, a Pearson 53 that made a Bermuda crossing just after we did was abandoned because all the interior bulkheads broke free. The boat was apparently not taking on water, but the crew panicked when the boat started coming apart. Conditions that this boat saw were extreme. I read about their ordeal after I got back from my trip. I did a web search, but can’t seem to find any more details.One of the issues is the secondary bonds that are made during construction. I don’t know a lot about the subject, but I can attest to the weakness of these bonds. As an example, I was able to pull the battery box out of the aft lazarette with a crow-bar with little difficulty. I first cut out what I could reach with a circular saw, then I started yanking at what was left with a crowbar. The stuff pulled free without damage to the hull.
When I hired a glass-man in Bermuda to fix my V-berth, he spent hours grinding down the surface of the hull and bulkheads where he applied the new glass. I wonder if Pearson didn’t do that properly when glassing in the interior stuff.
Rich
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Tor
That trip was my only real offshore passage. Its a small sample. I consider offshore to be when you’re outside normal radio communications, maybe 50 miles plus. IMHO, coastal cruising is entirely different. I’ve experiences similar sea states when coastal cruising, but not for extended periods of time. As an example, conditions at the entrance to the Cape Cod canal in Buzzards Bay are similar to what I experienced. The waves are only bad for an hour or two however. The stretch of ocean between the Northeast and Bermuda is known to be rough. Since the wind normally blows from the south, there’s no way to go but upwind if you ever want to get there. Early in the season, it can blow pretty hard from the south and low-pressure centers can run down the gulf stream every couple of days. That’s what we encountered. If I had waited a couple of more weeks before leaving, my experience would have been entirely different. If I had slowed down and waited for the weather to improve, we may have never made it. A Pearson 55 that was a day or two behind us never made it. His bulkheads broke loose and they abandoned ship. Another 30 footer from Virginia was lost with hands, and a boat just behind us lost his mast and had to be rescued.I don’t think the weather we encountered was all that bad. It blew from the starboard bow at about 40kts apparent for about a day and a half. There were a few 20-foot waves, but most were 10 feet or less. They were steep because of the current however. The other boats listed above didn’t make it to Bermuda in time. It got really nasty just after we tied up at the custom’s dock.
In my opinion, the V-berth flat sections need reenforcing and the boat needs a better cockpit drain. Other than that, its pretty well made. Oh, if you have a sloop or cutter, you need to do something about the backstay chainplate too.
Regards
Rich
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For what its worth, I had a local shop make a spare starter for my old W60 a few years back. He built one up from off-the-shelf parts for less than $200. If anyone needs parts for theirs, you should have no problem bringing the part into a local shop for them to match up.
Rich
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Tor
I went there about 12 years ago. We had a Pearson 424 rendezvous on Martha’s Vinyard the year before. One of the other owners wanted to arrange another rendezvous for the following year in Bermuda. He and I were the only ones willing to make the trip.I hired a local guy in Bermuda to repair the glasswork. The price wasn’t that bad. He locked himself in the forward cabin for two or three days and repaired the damage; adding between 3/8″ and 3/4″ to the inside of the hull in the V-berth. He gelcoated the inside of the hull to keep the odor down while it cured.
Rich
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John
My notes are attached if you haven’t already read them. The info is a
little old, but it might help. Watch the weather in early June. Until the
summer weather pattern kicks in, it can be a dangerous trip. I’ll be headed
out that way around the 18th of June from Boston, but I’m taking a bigger
boat, something about 900 feet.Good luck and wave if you see us. I’ll keep my eye open for you.
RichQuote:
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Cada
No drawings. I made it to the same dimensions as the cabinet over the sink, but deeper. The depth matches the position of the wood stringers under the coachroof. I originally expected those stringers to hold the cabinet up, but I ended up drilling a pair of bolts through the deck to carry the weight. The cabinet faces must be under the stringers or when you tighten the bolts, the coach roof will get squished. I suppose you could cut the coachroof out above the cabinet if you wished. You could also put in an additional stringer if you wanted a narrower cabinet.I carefully cut the five panels from teak venir plywood. I used oak 1″ square stock in the inside corners to hold the panels together as Pearson did. I glued solid teak stock using resourcinal in the outside corners using a dimension slightly larger than needed and ran a router around the edges to smooth it out. Then I cut out the door holes and used the coutout stock to make the doors. I used the same technique to make the doors. I glued oversided stock around the four sides of the cutout and then ran the router around the edges to trim to size.
The cabinet was my first cabinetmaking attempt. I think it came out pretty well, but it took me a long time. After a number of other projects, I think I could do it much quicker now. It would probably take about a week to make it. Much of that time would be waiting for glue to dry.
You need a good table saw, a router with a laminating bit, plus a lot of patience. If I had to do it again, I’d make it slightly shorter. The boat is slightly narrower forward of the sink. I’ll take some better photos of it the next chance I get.
Rich
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So what do you do, dress your wife in terry-cloth, spray her down with simple-green and ask her to run around in the bilge? I’m not sure I could talk my wife into that.
Rich
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I don’t have a tensioner. Like most folks, I adjust rigging tension by experience. I flex the uppers and lowers until they ‘feel’ right and then take the boat for a sail. I wuuld guess that the tension for the uppers is somewhere around 1000 lbs and the lowers are about half that.
The forestay is not really adjustable. I tension the backstay. The breaking strength of 3/8 steel wire is about 14000 lbs. The end fittings are rated at arount 6000 lbs. Depending on wind conditions, I run the backstay tension between about 500 lbs (downwind) and 3500lbs (upwind).
http://www.americanriggingsupply.com/index_files/Navtec_Wire_Dyform_Rod%20Specs.pdf
Rich
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I’ve made so many changes over the years, I’d have trouble cutting it down to just one or two.
The most expensive change I made is no doubt the repower. If I factor that out, I think the storage cabinet over the galley ice-box would be the best. It adds a huge amount of storage to the galley and makes a nice place to mount a TV. It was a lot of work, but wasn’t expensive.
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/rcarterinterior/P8180005Rich
BlackSheep
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Joe
I worked closely with my prop manufacturer to come up with what should have been the proper size for my boat. I don’t believe the size is correct however. Once you install the damn thing and launch the boat, its pretty hard to pull the boat and send the prop back for rework. I’ll live with what i have. Its close enough. I should have a little more pitch. I can overrev the engine at full throttle.The only way to really tell is to run your boat under power. If you can drive your boat to more than 7.3 kts (hull speed) at less than 85% max RPM, and if you can’t over-rev your engine at full power, your prop is the correct size. I’m somewhat over-engined. I can get hull speed at 64% max RPM. If the prop had a little more pich, I could probably do the same at 60%. With a properly matched propeller, I think you’ll find that your engine drives your boat well.
In order to activate my Yanmar warranty, I had to pay Yanmar to take my boat out for a sea-trial. I’m surprised that you didn’t have to do the same thing.
Rich
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