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Joe,
I checked my notes and see that my prop is 18.5 x12, so our props are almost the same size. There may be some slight difference in efficiency between the two. I have a 3-blade folding Slipstream prop. Since the props are almost the same, the boats should behave the same at the same shaft speed. My gear reduction is 2.5:1 whereas yours is 2:1. I have a much faster turning engine so its geared down a little more. You can view my boat performance at various engine speeds at the link below. Divide my RPM numbers by 1.25 to get your RPM numbers.My sea trial was done on a calm day in a protected bay. The bottom was clean. There was a little current, so the test run numbers differ slightly between the runs. I get to 7 kts at about 2500 RPM. You should get to 7kts at about 2000 RPM. I can push into a head sea against the wind if I push the throttle up a little. I don’t have figures for boat speed vs engine RPM. I would guess that 3000 RPM will push the boat to 7kts against anything reasonable. This would be about 2400 RPM for your engine.
I can run the engine all the way up to 4000 RPM, but I don’t go much faster. I run it for about 20 minutes at about 3700 RPM about once a month for maintenance.
As I mentioned before, I had to play with the V-drive alignment to get the engine to run smoothly. Even at 4000 RPM, the boat doesn’t vibrate much. If you want some help aligning your V-drive, give me a call any evening at my cell below between 7pm and 9pm Eastern time.
Rich
603-493-3330
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” For prolonged running, a pleasure boat engine a good operating speed is around 85% of maximum continuous rated RPM (see the engine data plate) assuming the propeller size is correct and the engine can reach maximum rpm).”
NOTE: the tach will read 100 RPM high at the high end of the scale, so if the tach says 2900 RPM, its really running 2800 RPM.
More info at:
http://www.yanmarhelp.com/operate.htmRich
BlackSheep #47
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I have the same problem in the forward cabin on the port side. This is my daughter’s cabin. She’s now 17 years old and has better things to do than hang around on the boat with her parents, so the cabin was mostly unused last summer. I didn’t notice the stain developing around the portlight until it was too last. The venir has delaminated.
I believe that the problem developed behind the coach trim just forward of the portlight. When water gets in there, it soaks into the plywood. You can’t really tell exactly where the leak started. I plan to remove the portlight and surrounding wood. I’ll then examine the backside of the plywood to get a better idea where the leak developed.
Rich
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Joe,
Assuming that you still have a 2:1 gear reduction, your shaft speed at your cruising RPM is close to where it will start to cavitate. A 13.5 pitch sounds a little bit on the high side, but you note only a 6kt cruising speed at that setting. I have the same diameter propeller but only an 11 pitch. I get about 7.3 kts at 1200 shaft RPM. Something doesn’t add up. If you had a lot of growth on your hull you might get only 6kts.If your V-drive is properly aligned and your shaft and prop are in good condition, you should experience a little vibration at that shaft speed, but not enough to rattle dishes. At 1200 shaft RPM, I can feel vibration in the soles of my feet if I stand in the aft cabin, but nowhere else. Dishes nor doors rattle. I’ve had to play with the engine alignment to get the boat to run smoothly.
Rich
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Dan
Pearson used several different ports during the 424 production cycle. Mine came with aluminum framed ports with rounded ends. I may still have a pair of them somewhere if I didn’t toss them out. Is this the type you are looking for?Rich
BlackSheep #47
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Paul
AGM batteries are sealed, so there’s no maintenance. I have two flooded
cells in there too, so I must service them once each season. I can slide
the batteries aft far enough to lift them out of the box. Once out, I can
clean out the battery box, wipe down the batteries, and top them off. Its
fairly easy to do but I wouldn’t want to do it each week. When the
batteries are stowed, a wooden brace runs across the top of the batteries
and holds them in place. If the boat were to roll over, the batteries
wouldn’t fall out. There’s about 300 lbs of batteries down there. You
don’t want them tossiing around the cabin. The access hatches lock into
position too.If I had it to do again, I might cut another access hatch in the cabin sole
beneath the galley table and glass the box in there. This would probably
require removal of the table to service the batteries, but that’s done each
season anyway.Regards
RichQuote:
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You’ll have a permanent list.
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James
You have a problem. I assume that the zincs hadn’t been serviced in 3 years. While it wouldn’t be unusual for zincs to fail within a 3 year period, its a very bad idea to allow them to dissolve and leave the boat unprotected. The bronze through hulls, rudder shaft, cutless bearing, and any other below-waterline metal fittings that I missed may have been damaged. In addition, your engine heat exchanger and V-drive case may have been damaged. Since the paint in the vacinity of the through-hulls was damaged, I would wonder if there is an electrical problem with the AC power serivce in your marina.Don’t panic yet, the boat is well built and you may have caught the problem in time. I would suggest having the metal fittings inspected however, both inside and outside the hull. Don’t forget to service your engine zinc too if you have one. My guess is that you might endup replacing your shaft and prop but the through-hulls will all look OK.
Zincs normally last 6 to 12 months. If you’re going to leave the boat for an extended period of time, its a good idea to drop in a zinc-fish. This is a zinc plate on a wire cable that clamps to your rigging. You drop it over the side to add extra protection.
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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p { margin: 0; }Bob
I don’t have photos of the installation. I should probably take a couple and post them. I’ll do so when it warms up and I get the energy to start working on spring projects. Its pretty straightforward. There’s enough room under there for golf-cart height batteries. I made the box to hold four of them. I wish I had the foresight to make the box a little larger. I came across a great price on large AGM batteries (approx $50ea, but the), but I can only fit a pair of them in there and a pair of golf-cart batteries. A couple of more inches of depth and I could have put 4 AGMs in there.
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We’ve had this discussion before. Please excuse me if I sound like I’m repeating myself. I moved my house batteries to the bilge shelf just forward of the sump. I removed the battery box in the starboard locker and glassed in a new box. The downside is that severe flooding could submerge your batteries. If it floods enough to submerge the batteries, the engine and related machinery will be partially submerged too, so you have bigger problems than a damaged battery. BTW, the batteries will still work, they just won’t charge. I know this because I had this happen to my dinghy battery. Dunking isn’t an issue with sealed batteries like AGM.
Putting the batteries over the keel puts the weight where it does some good and frees up quite a lot of storage space. The compartment is huge. There’s stuff down there that we never see unless we clean out the locker. Its a bit of a run from the selector switch, but 2/0 wire can handle the load.
I keep a starter battery on the shelf inside the aft hanging locker. Even if the main bank gets submerged, I can still start the engine, assuming that the dipstick doesn’t leak water into the crankcase.
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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Rodd,
If its flat, you have a lot of options. I’m guessing that this isn’t a prized yacht and you’re just looking for something to cover the hole that doesn’t look bad. The earlier suggestion to encapsulate a piece of exterior plywood in epoxy is probably a good one. You might optionally put on a layer of fiberglass cloth too. This won’t be particularly attractive however unless you do something with the top of it. I might suggest laying in a piece of rubber nonskid over the top. The problem is that you might find it difficult to purchase a small piece and a small quantity of adhesive. You could try painting the top with nonskid paint. This would hide the cloth weave and any brushstrokes from the epoxy.Rich
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Rodd
If you buy teak stock from a lumber yard rather than the boat store, its not very expensive. You need a good table saw to cut it into boards because it comes rough cut. I think I paid about $12/board foot last fall for lumber that was roughly 2×6 6′ long. You only need a couple of board feet for what you’re doing. You could also use teak colored trex decking cut to size if you glue it over a pressure treated piece of plywood.Is the door flat or does it have a curve to it?
Rich
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Linus
When I cleaned my old V-drive, I think I spent well over 8-hrs chipping away at the crud. I tried all kinds of cleaners from naval-jelly to acid; even teak cleaner. I tried a small bit on a die-grinder and finally settled on chisel and hammer. After cleaning it well, I coated the cooling jacket with marine-tex. I eventually replaced the darn thing. The new v-drive has an oil cooler running through the cooling jacket, so its going to be much harder to clean. I guess I’ll find out later this spring. No way am I going up onto my boat when its below zero….Regards
Rich
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Call it what you will. Its better than chewing-gum and bailing-wire. Apparently it was once used on duct work. I don’t know anyone who uses if for that anymore.
“The original use was to keep moisture out of the ammunition cases. Because it was waterproof, people referred to the tape as “Duck Tape.” Also, the tape was made using cotton duck – similar to what was used in their cloth medical tapes. Military personnel quickly discovered that the tape was very versatile and used it to fix their guns, jeeps, aircraft, etc. After the war, the tape was used in the booming housing industry to connect heating and air conditioning duct work together.
Soon, the color was changed from Army green to silver to match the ductwork and people started to refer to duck tape as “Duct Tape.”
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I think I’ve said this before, but here goes again for anyone who might have missed it.
I probably have the cheapest and easiest mast boot and it never leaks. I wrap a kitchen sized plastic trash bag around the mast. Then I wrap that with duck tape starting at the bottom until the tape covers the plastic and wraps onto the mast. I make sure that it fits snug around the base and the tape should stick to the deck plate. I then place a canvas cover over the mast boot. This is strictly for appearances and to keep sunlight off the duck tape. West Marine used to sell these canvas covers, but I don’t see them in the catalog anymore. Mine is about 20 years old and probably needs replacement. It would be simple to sew one up. If the duck tape sticks up above the canvas, I wrap some white chafe tape around what shows. I’ve never had a leak unless the aluminum deck plate needs recaulking.
(There’s two spellings for this tape, duct tape and duck tape. Since it was first spelled duck tape and as far as I can tell has no application in duct work, I use the older spelling.)
Rich
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