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Other than the plug issue, I’ve been able to keep my mast from leaking with no problem. One trick is to rebed the deck ring every few years. Like the chainplates, it moves with the rigging and the caulking doesn’t last.
Rich
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Linus
I’m very interested in hearing any alternatives ways to clean the V-drive. My new V-drive is about 3 years old now. Its due for a cleaning. I’m not looking forward to the task. Can you provide any more information on your cleaning method below?Rich
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Dan
If its a pencil zinc like what I had in my W60, West Marine carried them and probably still does. They have a store in Honolulu. The stock zinc was a bronze plug with a zinc pencil. I could frequently remove the old zinc and replace it rather than buy the plug and zinc. Being a cheap SOB, that’s what I usually did. Try heating the pencil with the plug in a vise. Then unscrew the pencil using a pair of vise-grips to hold it.You could of couse order one from a Westerbeke dealer, but hold onto your wallet!
My Yanmar has no engine zincs.
Hope this helps
Rich
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I made contact with John (KI4JDT) in the Bahamas. If there were other
stations trying to reach the net, nothing was heard. Please let me know if
you attempted to make contact. If you didn’t reach us, there may have been
an issue with propagation or you may have a radio equipment problem.If there is interest, I’ll try and setup another time next weekend for a net
again.Rich (KE1EV)
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This is a reminder that there will be a P424 net this evening at 8PM Eastern
time.Rich KE1EV
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Voltage is a little high, 21.5V.
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Rich Carter
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There will be a Pearson 424 radio net this Saturday at 8pm eastern time (1am UTC), 1/10/2009. The net will operate on 7.180MHZ LSB or somewhere close to that frequency if it is busy. The purpose of the net is to allow owners to test equipment, improve their operating skills, and to promote the discussion of marine mobile radio equipment and subjects that are of interest to 424 owners. Licensed operators (amateur general or better) are welcome to participate. If interested, please listen for the net on the above frequency. If the frequency is busy, please listen for us at frequencies close to that listed.
If you lack an amateur license or equipment that is capable of transmitting on 40 meters, please listen for us anyway. All that is needed is a radio receiver that is capable of receiving lower sideband signals on the net frequency and a good antenna. Most shortwave receivers are capable.
Rich KE1EV
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I’ll set something up for this weekend. I plan on 9PM eastern time(2am UTC) somewhere near the bottom of the general class SSB portion of 40M. The two lower bands can be a real challenge to get on with a short antenna like a backstay and anything higher is subject to sunspot openings which are rare these days. I’ll need to look at the band and see if I can find a nice spot between the commercial broadcast stations. I’ll send a follow up message to confirm time and frequency. If the time or frequency doesn’t work for you and you want to check out your gear or just chat, let me know. I usually play with my equipment most evenings during the cold weather; nothing else to do other than watch the boob-tube.
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Rich Carter
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KE1EV
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Yes,
I use them in several places that require high current and a reliable connection. I crimp and then solder the connections. The connectors don’t lock together, so I run a small tie-wrap through the holes in the connectors to lock them.http://www.qsradio.com/Powerpoles.htm
I prefer to use the industry standard ‘T’ plug for powering my radios. These lock together.
http://www.qsradio.com/DC-FM-Plug.jpg
Rich
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Bob
Since you get noise on a handheld radio, I assume that the noise is not resulting from hash on your 12v DC lines. It sounds like the battery monitor is radiating. If the RFI is directly from the battery monitor, there is little that you can do. By federal law, the manufacturer is required to build and sell stuff that doesn’t radiate, but many manufacturers don’t understand RFI and have no clue how to reduce it. It takes a degree in EE and black magic to get RF noise down. If you can put the stuff inside a metal enclosure you might reduce noise, but chances are you can’t do this.You might get a copy of the ARRL handbook and read the section on EMI. If you don’t want to purchase the book, you can probably borrow a copy from your local library.
Hope this helps
Regards
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Lee
The repair only applies to sloops and cutters. I’m not sure how many 424s were made with that rig. Here’s a link to my project pages. Click on the transom chainplate tab to view my notes. The project would work better if you welded the inside bracket assembly rather than bolt it. I had problems with the bolts interfering with each other. I also suggest electro-polishing the chainplate before installation.There is absolutely no sign of stess on the chainplate anymore.
http://www.richardcarter.net/Projects.html
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Pete
Reverse engraving the panel is a great idea. If you sandwich two panels together, you can paint the surface of the bottom panel thereby protecting the painted surface from scratches.I used lexan for the engine panel I made. No lettering was required since there are no switches on it. I bought an appropriately sized hole saw for the gauges.
I’ve considered replacing my breaker panel, but there would be a lot of work involved with rewiring the whole panel. All I really need to do is refresh the white silk screening. I could probably make stick on letters, but the white stripes would be a challenge.
Has anyone seen a source for the original panel meters? My 12v meter sticks.
I’ve also considered making a small switch panel next to the breaker panel. IMHO, using the breakers to turn stuff on isn’t a good idea. It limits what you can control. Its OK for stuff that you normally leave on, but I prefer a separate switch for stuff like each instrument. I have things like running lights setup with relays so that when I turn on my engine the inverter and engine blower turn on and lights revert from masthead to deck and the steaming light comes on. I use a single-pole double-throw switch for each circuit. The switch has three positions, on, off, and auto. The auto position is controlled by the ignition key through a relay. I’ve been considering making a new panel for these switches.
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Rich Carter
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Horn, running lights, and blower come to mind.
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Rich Carter
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Paul
Its hard to tell if it would work on something like a 424. The boat in the
video is tiny in comparison. It also has a pole sticking out of the bow. I
also note that he has a foredeck man to launch the sail. I’m not sure you
gain anything. I’m pretty sure you wouldn’t be able to race with it if that
is ever in your future.I can vouch that the spinnaker sock works. Its pretty simple and not
expensive.I don’t have my sail dimensions available here. I think it was something
around 1200 sq ft, but I’m not sure. Check with your sailmaker.Rich
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Bob
As I said, I can set the chute with one crewmember in the cockpit and me on the foredeck. The reverse would work, but getting the halyard and sheets set properly is tricky. I don’t trust anyone else to get it right. You need someone in the cockpit to sheet in the lines. As the sock pulls up, someone needs to trim the sheet.To do it reliably, you need a helmsman. The autopilot won’t react to a small wind shift. That makes three. If you want to douse the gennoa as part of the maneuver, you need a second winch monkey. Four makes it easy.
If racing, we need two more. If you are setting it while rounding a mark, you need someone else on the main to control the gybe. You may want yet another person to tail the sheet so that the lines don’t get jammed.
This is a big sail. If you don’t set and douse it right you can get in trouble. It can wrap around the forestay or get dunked in the water and pulled off the deck if you screw up.
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Rich Carter
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