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Tor
No disrespect to Bob, but I think he is mistaken in this case.
From the following link:
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/corrosion.htm“The general rule is that anytime a piece of metal plumbing or hardware is isolated in a system, as with a sea strainer that is joined by two hoses is electrically isolated, needs to be wired into the system. This can be done by daisy chaining items together, but it’s a good idea not to include too many items in a chain. Obviously, at any point where a connection is broken, all those items upstream will be unprotected.”
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Rich Carter
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You have seawater running through the pipes. Your zinc will protect the bronze fittings if they are electrically at the same potential as the zinc. In other words, they must be grounded. If you have a plastic nipple or thimble in your manifold, you will insulate some of the metal pipes. If you have the whole thing connected to the through-hull using a rubber hose, the whole thing will be unprotected. IYou can fix this by bonding the metal parts. The same thing applies to raw water strainers, V-drive, and anything else that transports seawater. f you use Teflon tape to assemble your manifold, you will insulate the fittings. I think pipe dope would be OK.
While typing this, I thought of a problem with my engine installation. The transmission oil cooler is painted. It uses seawater to cool the transmission fluid. Although it is in contact with the engine block via mounting hardware, the paint might insulate the cooler. I need to make sure that it is properly grounded.
I still think that the fittings used for home sprinkler systems might be a good choice. I’ll have to look at them the next time I’m at home depot. The valves might not be up to standard, but the thimbles might.
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Rich Carter
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Interesting problem. To make it more complicated, you can’t mix metal and plastic fittings unless you can find a way to ground each metal fitting. I don’t think you could find bronze thimbles anyway. I suggest contacting Forespar and asking them.
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Rich Carter
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Be careful with brass fittings in saltwater applications. They can suffer from what is called dezincification. After a few years they will become brittle and may snap off. I had this happen to the engine seawater strainer.
Bronze fittings are becoming increasingly difficult to find. PVC can split open if it freezes. I think nylon or marilon may be the only viable choice these days. The stuff they use for home sprinkler systems might work.
Rich
BlackSheep #47Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
That’s West Marine. They offer the 80W solar panel for $100 over full retail. You can get it for about $250 under retail at other various outlets. Amazon offers free shipping.
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Rich Carter
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Replacing the boat stove is on my to-do list. It costs between about $1000 and $1500 to replace the unit. Given stiff competition from other various projects on the boat for funds, it hasn’t worked its way up to the top of the list yet. The oven stopped working last year, so I’m stuck using the microwave for anything that I might want to put in there. You can’t make toast, and I’m not sure I’d want to cook a rib-roast in there.
The original stove is a Hillerange Princess stove. It’s not a bad unit, but it isn’t the best choice. When you open the door, it unbalances the stove. It would be a drop-in replacement and they are a good value. They are still available from this guy for about a grand + shipping.
http://stores.ebay.com/GEARBUSTERS
Force-10 makes a nice range that would fit in the galley. It runs about $1400 + shipping.
http://www.postmarine.com/details.asp?item=63351—
Rich Carter
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Holy smokes, 5 boat units for a winter cover! I have a canvas cover that is almost 30 years old that I’ve been nursing each year. It has so many patches that it looks like a big quilt. I’ve been thinking of replacing it, but I think I’ll put my boat units elsewhere.
I’ve also been considering the purchase of one of those huge silver tarps to be adapted as a cover. Some assembly would be required, but I’d save over $5 grand. I don’t store my boat in the water, so it is easier to cover. I think the fabric used on these is all the same, but the last two have sewn in straps and grommets. I’ll measure what I have to see which is closest.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1438
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1437
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95730
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95731—
Rich Carter
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I recommend Northeast Rigging. They’ve replaced all my rigging. Good service and great prices.
http://www.nerigging.com/
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My old W60 didn’t have one either. There was a tube connected to the overflow vent on the top of the coolant tank. Any excess would run down the tube and drip on the top of the fuel lift pump. This eventually caused the lift pump to corrode. When problems started to show up in the lift pump, I added an overflow tank and an external 12v fuel pump. You can get both for short money at an automotive store.
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Rich Carter
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Quent,
Here’s a link to a free downloadable manual that has lots of useful information.
http://www.sgcworld.com/Publications/Books/hfguidebook.pdfConnecting the lifelines and other metal stuff to the ground-plane can’t hurt, but it doesn’t substitute for a good RF ground. Don’t confuse an RF ground with a DC ground. Just because your ohm meter says zero ohms doesn’t mean that the RF electrical potential will be zero volts. You are dealing with the speed of light and relatively long conductive paths relative to the wavelength. You can have large standing waves anywhere in your antenna system. If properly installed, the grounds should be OK. It is possible to get burned while using your equipment if the paths are too long or if you don’t ground things properly. My suggestion is to keep your bonding system in good condition (this is the web of green wires that connect all your through-hulls to your engine block). Run some copper flashing in the bilge as shown on page-68 of the linked document. Make sure that you have a good ground from the radio chassis to your engine block using a heavy gauge wire using a short
run.
Also ground the antenna tuner in a similar fashion. Make sure that nobody touches the backstay when transmitting.As for your question about doides, 160 amps isn’t all that much. My alternator is about that size. A good alternator shop should have diodes that will work. Offhand, I don’t know where you could get substitutes except perhaps Mouser. Why are you relocating them? Only part of the heat generated is from the doides, most of it is from the coils. You need to have adequate cooling for the alternator or it will overheat. The genset needs fresh air too.
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Rich Carter
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Linus
You have two other heat exchangers, one on the transmission and the other is an oil cooler. Both have curved shaped brackets used to mount the heat exchangers. Heat exchangers are easy to come by, but mounting hardware is not.Rich
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Adam
You can send your unit out to Sen-Dure on an exchange basis and they will build you a new one. I think I paid about $140 a few years ago.
http://www.sen-dure.com/—
Rich Carter
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Linus
Save the mounting brackets for the heat exchangers. They might come in handy some day.
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Chuck
You’ve almost certainly ordered an RV-26. The RV-20 is out of production. It is almost a drop-in replacement, but not quite.Here’s a link to my notes
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/My_Homepage_Files/Page26.htmlRich
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Sometimes we don’t listen to our own advice. The motor in my dinghy has an electric start and runs with a small garden-tractor battery. Last week, I found that I was unable to start the dinghy motor without using the emergency pull starter. I had my wife stop at Walmart and bring down a replacement battery, but the darn thing still wouldn’t start. Odd that Walmart would leave their batteries on the shelf long enough for them to go bad. After wressling with the damn pull starter all weekend, I finally pulled the cables off the battery and cleaned them with sandpaper. The thing starts like a champ now. Boy, do I feel stupid. They sell a terminal coating that protects battery cables from corrosion. I use it on my sailboat batteries, but never even thought of spraying the dinghy battery connections.
Rich
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