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Hey Tor,
I frequently see used and rebuilt V-Drives on eBay. An RC-26D rebuilt listed now for $1699. Trick may be finding one with the right gear ratio.
Anyone know if it’s easy or cheap to change the gear ratio in a Walter? Say I found a great deal but it’s 1.4/1 and I need a 2/1.
By the way, I see a couple of RV-20s listed. Maybe buy one of these cheap for parts?
By the way, this is a super strong, chemical resistant hose that is the right stuff for the application. Wouldn’t use just any reinforced hose….. just in case.
Hi,
Replaced the hose on my shaft log. Sure it was the original and seemed like the prudent thing to do since failure could be a boat sinker.
Research indicates Buck Algonquin is the brand to buy. Will dig through my notes to find the size.
Not sure if their is a difference between models but I have a 1 1/2″ bronze prop shaft. Assume yours is the same?
Just replaced both cables on my 422 with Edson pedestal. As noted, remove compass (and yes, don’t drop screws or drain the compass). The only other step was as described by Patrick, to remove the clip holding the cables to the side of the pedestal. On mine the screw is a flat head on the aft side of the column of the pedestal about 12″ below the compass. If you look down inside the pedestal after removing the compass you can see the clip.
When installing the new cable make sure you get the lip that encircles the metal end of the cable jacket correctly seated in the clip before screwing it down. That’s what holds the cable jacket from sliding with the inner cable when you move the levers.
I just bought a new furler. Read all the research and comments from sailors. Practical Sailor also did a test on the new generation furlers a year or so ago. Got down to Hood or Harken and I decided on the Harken. But it’s still in the box and I haven’t installed it yet so can’t give any first hand report on how well it works.
Also, I have to admit that a year later I can’t remember why I picked the Harken over the Hood but I’m sure it was for a very good reason.
Just found one listed here
http://www.newportnautical.com/Classic-Walker-s-Knotmaster-Log-Mark-III-A-p/brum-log.htm
for $250.
Hi John,
If I may ask, why no recommendation for Mack Sails? You’re the first I’ve encountered who was not completely happy with them.
Skip
What about the correct gasket material for the original opening ports? One day I guess I will join the club and go for the New Found Metals ports but the list of more urgent matters is way too long for now.
Only made one trip in the boat before hauling to do the refit so my experience with anchoring the Pearson is a month at anchor in very calm weather in CT and a total of 10-12 nights on the trip from RI to FL.
First every boat that I have owned tended to sail around at anchor, some quite a lot. In a strong blow through total arc of 45 degrees or more.
On the Pearson I tried running the snubber through the chock to the cleat but the SS anti chaffing strip on the teak toe rail did not line up with the snubber and the movement was starting to saw into the wood. Did not like the idea of putting an anchoring load on the bow rollers but decided for short term it would be OK if I used a LOT of chain and a small, stretchy snubber that would not put a shock load on the roller. Also, looking at the angle of the snubber over the roller the vertical vector of the force down onto the roller would be fairly small, most of the load going into the horizontal vector and transferred to the cleat.
I found when I ran the snubber over the roller the boat did not sail at all. The bow pointed dead into the wind and did not move, even through a midnight thunderstorm with gusts over 35 kts. When I ran the snubber through the chocks, even in mild conditions I was sailing around through at least 30 degrees in 8-12 kt breeze.
Why the difference? Well as you point out, the chock is offset from the center-line only a few inches more than the roller but would that few inches matter? The roller is a few feet further forward so maybe that made the difference? Maybe the combination of the two?
I am thinking about doing like Tor and installing an eye low on the bow for the snubber. I have read other cruisers have done this and liked it but do note recall any comments about sailing or not.
So Tor, anything to report how the boat respond to this system as far as sailing at anchor?
I rigged a single line snubber through the chock to the cleat and the boat sailed all over the anchorage. Running the snubber over the roller to the cleat the boat sits steady as a rock. On the hard for an overhaul so have not had time to try a double line snubber.
So why do you like the single line or do not like the double?
If (when?) I repower it will be with a Beta, unless they get the bugs and costs for electric sorted out before hand.
Which Beta did you go with?
Skip
@petedd wrote:
That’s why when it came time to rebuild, I got a Beta.
On 1/31/2012 7:11 PM, skipmac wrote:
They want $400 just for the fuel shutoff solenoid. Guess I shouldn’t be surprised considering the costs for other parts for the W58.
Think I will ever want to buy another Westerbeke product (rhetorical question)?
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They want $400 just for the fuel shutoff solenoid. Guess I shouldn’t be surprised considering the costs for other parts for the W58.
Think I will ever want to buy another Westerbeke product (rhetorical question)?
OK, went to the St Pete boat show and had a long talk with the US Reps for ASMO Marine, makers of the Thoosa electric power systems. The US distributor is Annapolis Hybrid Marine but I spoke mostly with Charlie Johnson of JTB Marine in St Pete who I believe is the FL agent.
Some information, thoughts and comments, in no particular order.
The hardware looked first class, at least from the outside. They didn’t offer to let me take one apart 🙂 so couldn’t tell about the inside of the motor or controllers but the mounts, machining, cabling, everything I could see looked very well made. Unless I have missed one I think the Thoosa system looks like the best and highest powered unit on the market at this time.
They have installed a 12 KW DC system on a 43′ Hylas which is on the way down the ditch from Annapolis. This installation was something of a test bed and there should be some reports back from the owner on how the system worked on his boat. Should be a good comparison for the 424.
If you use the conversion of 1 HP = 0.735 KW, 58 HP = 42.63 KW. If you allow for parasitic loads on the diesel, water pump, alternator, friction, etc, depending on whose estimates you use you will lose several HP in the system so conservatively say you have 45 HP at the shaft. That would equal about 33 KW but the largest motor in the current line is the 12 KW. Charlie stated that due to the higher torque at low rpm compared to a diesel which doesn’t produce full power until the peak rpm power band, a real world conversion would be 0.5 KW per HP. That would still call for a 22.5 KW electric motor to produce the estimated 45 HP at the prop shaft from the venerable Westerbeke. There is a higher power AC version coming out that I think he said would be 24 KW which, at least on paper sounds more like what it would take. In my opinion the 424/422 hull is not exactly overpowered with the W58 or W60 and I have my doubts that a 12 KW electric motor would give anything close to the performance of the W58.
Now, the bottom line. If you’re interested you better bring your big wallet. Pretty much matches my previous research that indicates electric costs 2-3 times more than diesel. The 12 KW DC motor with controller, throttle, cabling and key is about $15K. A Polar diesel DC generator to power the system (necessary if you want to go more that a couple of hours under power or can’t carry a ton or more in batteries) is another $15K. I haven’t gotten an exact quote but I think you could buy a new Beta or Yanmar, transmission and V-drive for something in the neighborhood of $15K.
For me the answer is still a diesel. If you want clean and quiet and mainly motor from the slip to the channel then an electric system might be the ticket. Or if you are a long distance cruiser but never motor long distances (if the Pardey’s can do it) then electric might work. Electric might be ready for the trip down the ICW (if you have deep pockets) but I think I’ll wait for some performance data before I make that statement.
I did not mean to imply that electric power would not work at all. I have read about a number of cruising boats that are running electric and have made major ocean crossings including significant distances under power.
But any system I have found that comes close to equivalent power to my W58 plus a generator to put out enough power to run it continuously, costs 2-3 times the price of a new diesel engine, transmission and V-drive together.
The more affordable systems I have found have much less power and often just enough range to motor out the channel.
