Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Tor
I have been studying the anchor locker for a while. I wonder if you think
it is necessary to cut out the floor of the existing anchor storage locker.
You and Peaboy have lost that as a storage space. I understand that you
mounted your windlass over that so it is no longer accessible. If your
windlass was mounted just aft of the opening do you think that the space
could be saved? I am planning on moving my pipe up to feed the rode in near
the top of the bulkhead to get a better drop. When you have your rode
stored does it need that extra height because the space is divided?Linus
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Whoo Hooo! There are good days of boat work when things get done…..
then there are days of waiting for parts. I hope your get it done
continues.Linus
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Peaboy
I have had issues with castling in the locker. I am coastal cruising so I
am running with 80 feet of chain and 300 feet of line. My plan is to glass
a shelf in the forward top of the locker and place the line up there leaving
the locker for the chain. I rarely get much into the line because I am
usually anchoring 8 to 12 feet of water. The shelf may not be the final
solution for long term cruising but I think that it will ad storage by
keeping the line that rarely gets used out of the way till it is needed.
Any comments on my plans will be appreciated. I also have a section with my
install on the 424 site. SumoceanLinus
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I have the plywood tongue that sticks out toward the engine from under the
mizzen also. The only reason that it appears to be there is to support part
of the wiring that went to the engine. I don’t think that it is necessary
especially after the repower. Now my wiring harness is about half of what
was there with the W60.Linus
Sumocean
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan
The problem with mine and I would assume others would be that the repower is
not all that gets done in a repower. I guess there should be a way to
isolate the repower costs. I found that ever project lead to another. This
attachment is a rough list of my costs. There are some items that are odd.
I run a restaurant and did most of the work myself with help from my staff.
That is why the labor for some items is much lower than yard rates, however
I did use some of my labor to work in the yard at the house when we had
finished the things that needed more than two hands and I was still busy on
the boat. That is the yard work that is on the list. I used a TAD
marinized Cummins 65 HP. I picked the motor up so there was no shipping,
same with the fuel tank. I used Deaton’s in Oriental to do the crane work
and the alignment. They also did the final connections at the engine. I
have almost finished putting things back together and hope to have a sailing
vacation next week. Of course working on the boat I have neglected all else
so we have to see what is on the to do list first. Not bad for me a 2 1/2
year project just to save a dime. I do feel like I learned a lot and I have
touched every spot on this boat that someone of my size could ( some times I
went a little to far and required a block and tackle to get out ). I never
had to call 911 but it was close.Linus
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Even though my yard has lifted the boat several times I always turn the
shaft just as he tightens the straps. After I confirm that the prop is not
involved he lifts the boat. Now it’s a habit and he expects it.Linus
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I had the original blue prints scaned and I posted them so Pat could get them. I don’t know what happened to them. They were large files so they could not be emailed. I don’t think they show the kind of detail that you will probably need. I still have all the files if there is somewhere that I can drop them for you to have a look.
Let me know
Linus
SUMOCEANOK so now I found all the sizes for the graphite under the Tefpac drop down at West. So now the new question is what size is correct? OK so I guess that was the original question I just wanted to let you know that I found it at West.
Linus
SUMOCEANIf the rudder fails I have a mizzen till I get something jerry rigged.
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete
Do you have any photos of your sensistat install. Where did you mount the
panel? I downloaded the manual from the Sailors Solution web site and now
this looks like a product that will do what the original installation was
trying to do.Linus
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I have to second any plug for MAS Epoxy. I have used since I started my
repower. Being a novice I was following directions too closely when mixing
in cabo-sil. When I contacted the company via email JB the president of the
company called me and talked me through my issues. He then gave me his cell
number and said call him anytime. That’s customer service from where I’m
standing.Linus
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I figured that typo out but Mom does have a pressure switch. I don’t trip
it now as much as I used to but I know that it’s there.
I am still finishing up the repower that is why the switch is not on the
engine. I have been doing without refrigeration but now I would like to
hook it back up. I thank everyone for the input. It seems to me that I can
just put a manual switch in where the pressure switch was and do away with
the AC sensor. I will have to adapt my battery management to be more
vigilant once the refrigeration is running. I do have a Honda for times
when I am at anchor which is not all that often yet. I’m hoping to get a
few weekends in this summer at least, but I’m never that far from a bag of
ice.Thanks
Linus
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete
Thanks, I kinda agree that the sensors are not needed. But at this point I
am trying to get things in order so I can take the boat out for a change. I
may just hook up the fridge with a switch as you suggested.Linus
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
