Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Diesel is not as good a conductor. It uses probes that connect when submerged.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 5:13 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hmmm, that sounds like a good idea, but how do you know your bilge is full
of diesel?I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 5:12 PM, “Linus Martinez” wrote:Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts and won’tturn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it waseither
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.
As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as
the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound)
works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine,at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.
West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s
specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right nowprice
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that
one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to
know.
Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water
heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actuallypretty
easy.
Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed
switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the
heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts and won’t turn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it was either
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound) works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine, at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right now price
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to know.Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actually pretty
easy.Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I had to cut off the fill fitting to make it easier to slide under the mizzen brace.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 9, 2011, at 12:13 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” wrote:
So I got the tank loose and I’m trying to decide the right next step as it’s
not sliding out due to the wires in the mizzen step and the engine pan, as
well as the Racor laterally. Those of you who slid it out, what all had to
be removed. I should mention I have removed the front of the box holding in
the tank and the angled ramp is what I’m riding on, not the flat section in
the front of the box, i.e., the tank has slid down several inches already.Thanks,
– pTaken by deepplaya http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/6130015395
Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Herb
Thanks
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 4, 2011, at 1:02 PM, “Herbc” wrote:
https://picasaweb.google.com/105734688941948806936/LazyJacks
try the link above. Will be trimming and seizing to get a finnished product.
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Herb
Could you post a pic. I may try to do lazy jacks after hurricane season.
Coastal living has a cost I guess.Linus
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete
What happens to any water that gets into the boat forward of the tanks?
Linus
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Do the synthetic lines chaff in the hole in the stanchions? Or is there a
way to protect them where they pass through the hole.Linus
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks guys that makes me feel better. I was planning to use my 30 year old
5 hp Yamaha this weekend till I have a chance to change the oils on the 15.
Planning a short trip to the beach so no need for the big engine anyway. As
luck would have it the Yamaha appears to have expired over the winter. To
the marina I guess. 15 HP will be a priority now.Thanks
Linus
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Someone said the the pushpit will not handle a 110 lb engine. What is the basis for this statement? I have a 15 hp Mercury that I got a deal on 10 years ago and it has sat in the barn till this year when I came across a used 10′ ABI RIB that is rated to 15 hp. I was hoping the 15 would be great for this set up. I know that I sit on and pull on the pushpit and I am topping 350 these days so I will need the 15 just to get my big ol’ butt on a plane. I made a lifting strap and was planning to use the mizzen sheet like Tor mentioned to aid in the lifting to the rack on the push pit. I made the outboard rack from a deck cut out from Sea Ox boats where I worked in college. It is 3/4 plyboard with 1/4 of glass on each side so I know that will take 110 lbs. So I guess to the point: Do you think that the push pit will not handle the weight of the engine? Maybe something on the toe rail to catch the skeg of the engine to add support from eblow?
Thanks
Linus
Maybe I have better access on my boat. I just use a long handled brush with
some degreaser. Rinse with water and follow with a shop vac. It usually
comes out squeaky clean.Linus
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete
Will you give me your email I have something that should not be on the list.
Linus
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Herb
Florida marine tanks, which made the OEM tank, made my replacement it
included a sending unit for the gauge and all the fittings. The cost was
$760. That was two years ago and there was no shipping because I picked it
up at the plant. They have a drawing on file and will send you a copy for
you to approve.Linus
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
monosyllabic…… easy for Bubba to understand
Linus
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob
I added a battery monitor when I repowered. I used the original volt meter
on the panel for my engine and windlass batteries. I try to make it a habit
of checking their voltage when the system is charging. Not the best test of
battery health yet it lets me know that they are being charged.Linus
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dan
This is the guide that I used in my install. Hope that it helps.
http://www.yandina.com/Bank3.htmLinus
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
