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John,
you’ll have to let me know what happened to the damper. As
you know I have the same damper in my W58. I have been very pleased so
far. No noise what so ever.
BUT…..
We were all waiting for the
the 4 o’clock opening of the Ben Sawyer bridge just before Charleston.
You know how all the boats mill around waiting…. I snagged a crab pot
and before I could react, it jammed the prop shaft up tight. It pulled
the shaft right out the coupling. TowBoatUS was there in 20 minutes and
towed me into the slip I had already reserved at the Maritime Center….
and I was only an hour and 15 minutes later than if I had motored in
myself.
. NO CHARGE. It pays to have UnLimited Gold towing insurance from BoatUS.
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I have used mine on several occasions. It’s a pain to put up, it can’t tacked or jibbed – must be taken down and re hoisted on the other side because of the back stays. So it’s not something you want to use unless it’s going to be up for a while.
It does blanket the main, so I have the main down.
Funny the first couple of times I used it I had it up like a jib with the tack on the lee side. Then I learned the tack goes on the windward side…. Almost parallel to the boom with boom sheet way out, it trimmed a whole lot better like that.
Added a knot maybe.
Make sure the cotter pins on the back stays are taped over so it does not snug the sail.
Alan— On Fri, 10/21/11, Robert Fine wrote:
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The 5x’s are a fantastic product….and then the price… WOW! The larger ones just don’t translate well in size. The port does not have the springs on it to keep it open on it’s own, your need the stupid chain attached to the ceiling. I would not have thought to ask that before I bought them. I can understand why now, ( a 20 inch SS port is pretty heavy) but it was still a shock. I thought they were an exact duplicate of 5x’.
Oh, yeah now I remember. I called them because the info on their web site said the large ports were sprung open….. the lady that answered the phone said ” yeah, we’ve been meaning to remove that”.
The internet good… the internet bad (esp. when I can tell so many people at once that your a dumbsh*t).
alan— On Tue, 10/18/11, joe shimkonis wrote:
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put them in in 09, just before I left on my trip. I talked to the owner, a tough guy to get a hold of and told him what I thought. I think they were making some changes. But too late for me.
alan
— On Tue, 10/18/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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I dont’ remember the price. and the 5×9’s I think the 6×20’s suck. The screens are different and have a gap around them. Not sealed tight like the small ones. Also, the way the big ones are manufactured, I get rust stains in places where it looks like they did some machining. The small ones do not do that.
alan— On Tue, 10/18/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Joe, I am in Deltavlille Va. at the moment. I should be leaving next week. Hope to be in Fla. in the latter part of Nov or 1st week in Dec. Going to Stuart then to Nassau.
I used just the zinc primer on my prop and shaft and thought it worked pretty darn good. Spent a season in the eastern Carrib and the Bahamas.
alan— On Mon, 10/17/11, joe shimkonis wrote:
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Got it sparkling and now waiting to get the 303.
Moving along and getting the work list down. I should be ready by the end of the week.
Boat was a mess….
a— On Sun, 10/16/11, wrote:
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“My PO just used the bonding
terminals in the electrical panel as NEG.”
True, because of that, the bonding wire does have a NEG potential (respect to POS or +12), but they are not supposed to be used as NEG RETURNS.
Not sure what kind of alternator you have, but if it’s NOT case grounded, your NEG cable on the alternator should be as big as the POS cable. Is it?
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
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It’s funny, I am always on the look out for free WiFi. Most times I anchor according to where I can get a good free signal. But when I put MY Access Point in UNABATED, the first thing I did was put security on it. I gave it a name that would be difficult to associate with my boat. If others in the anchorage find your signal, it just everything right down. If I get chummy with someone, I offer them my password.
I am just using the LinkSys WAP54g mounted under the companionway stairs. I like to sit on the bow and surf.
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Dale L wrote:
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Yep….
Here’s why I like IslandTime PC…. Bob is a sailor and he has a great package and all the tech support you need. He’s an SSCA member also.
The product he sells is the Ubiquiti Bullet series. You can get them cheaper elsewhere but your going to have to get your own antenna and the brackets and cables. He sells the whole thing ready for your boat, you don’t have to be an IT guy to buy and install.
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Robert Fine wrote:
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Very true Pete. I have the link 20 which has 2 banks also. It does not have the VR like the 2000. Very little knowledge comes from the start bank, but monitoring the voltage is a good thing.
After a while you get a sense of your daily usage of amps and can tell right away when something has gone awry. So I tend to put everything though the shunt.
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Check out the Wifi System at IslandTimePC.com
I added it to my boat and can pick up hotspots from all over the place. Of course it’s line of site but now your antenna is high up. Been able to pick up a signal from 4 miles away.
No relation – just a happy consumer.
Alan
UNABATED— On Wed, 10/12/11, cstewart wrote:
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I do believe though when I had my engine out, the bonding wire for the strut is connected to the same bolt on the port side of the engine block as the grounding cable. On the Stb side of the engine, the bottom starter mounting bolt, is the continuation of the bonding to the strainer and other devices.
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
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Shunt or battery will still work. A much cleaner install would be for it to go to the shunt. One less connection to the batteries. That way when you crank your starter for 30 minutes trying to start your engine all those little amps will be subtracted from the reading on your LinkPro.
Patrick must have another issue with the bonding thing
Alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Robert Fine wrote:
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I agree also, the bonding (and most of mine is disconnected, that discussion is akin to anchors ) should not be used to run anything.
Just a hint to the future, make sure your bonding is clean (noise wise) else you will have difficulties down the road with a SSB installation.
alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Robert Fine wrote:
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