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Thx. As i just steamed by Faulkner Island with my pungent and seasick wife, it looks like lowes, HD or the local sentry and some goobery stuff. Hey. There sure is a lot of wasted space behind the shower enclosure.
Adam Silverstein, iPhone
(“it was horrible,” recounts former child)On Aug 19, 2009, at 11:03 AM, “Linus Martinez” wrote:
Quote:AdamYou will find a drop in replacement at a mobile home or RV store. Cheap stuff but not priced that way.
Linus
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Only water. Coolant is separated within jacket around rods.
Adam Silverstein, iPhone
On Jul 28, 2009, at 10:34 AM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Robert-That’s what I was afraid someone would say!! When opening the cap will any coolant drain out, or only the salt water ?
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I’ve used vaseline in a pinch (hold your witty asides). I also cut the gasket from a paper chart impregnated with sealant (owch. damn).
But that was when I was stuck in Virginia.
-Adam Silverstein, iPhone(It’s all unintentional)
On Jul 19, 2009, at 12:48 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Can I use any ole grease on my raw water pump impeller? I searched here and Cruiser Forum and didn’t find any info. I have some Lewmar winch grease handy so I thought I’s use that. It’s labeled as a calcium sulphonate grease, which means nothing to me.
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Yeah. Our house is KISS. What height was that pedestal? Looks real nice.
-Adam Silverstein, iPhone
(I do all my own stunts)On Jun 30, 2009, at 7:46 PM, Patrick Walters <>
wrote:Quote:I didn’t realize I hadn’t gone through those ones. I have added them
all to my P424 Modifications page.Now I’m overwhelmed with ideas which is right where I need to be as
I ponder doing this at some point.-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
________________________________________
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I discovered knipex pliers about 8 years ago while repairing my father in law’s exploded plumbing. Crazy Rockwell hardness and with an angled jaw design. You can put them on a steel pipe and stand on them.
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“water on the outside, crew on the inside”)
On Jun 2, 2009, at 7:02 AM, “Linus Martinez” < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:PatrickI looked at the Knipex web page. What is the hook? I don’t see anything different about the pliers. Are there some specialized ones that I missed? I love a new tool to play with, I can’t seem to get the boat out of the slip might as well play with my tools.
Linus
<.. snip>
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have a look at these.http://www.pearsoninfo.net/info/factory/factory.htm
-adamOn May 17, 2009, at 3:34 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:Hi Rich,I’m well aware of the power of ice – but as Iived on the boat all winter and the bilge never went below 40 degrees (because the water didn’t), I know that that wasn’t the problem. The problem was caused by point loading the hollow part and essentially crushing it. My bad, as I had the marina put the block there – that said, on my Ranger 30, the false keel part of the boat behind the ballast was so thick and solid that you could block it there and drop the lead for rebedding.
Lesson learned. On my way now!
Regard,
Bob
On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 9:27 AM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:There is a common problem with boats with deep sumps such as the 424. If water fills the sump area during winter layup, it will expand when freezing and crack the back of the keel. Water can get in any number of ways including a hose failure or just rainwater through the locker lids and engine dorade vents. Hose failure can occur if water accumulates inside the hose until it gets clogged with ice. Once the bottom of the hose gets blocked, the upper section will fill with water. This may split the hose open when it freezes. I throw some rock-salt in the deck drains every now and then if it looks like ice is building up in there. I’ve had three-foot long icicles hanging from my through-hulls. The worst offender is the copper drain pipe in the propane locker. This can get blocked very easilly and will split open if water freezes in there.
There isn’t much you can do to keep all water out of your bilge during wither layup. I toss a couple of gallons of anti-freeze down there to keep the ice from freezing solid. If I’m careful about maintaining the boat during storage, I only get a couple of gallons of water down there during the winter.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
You may be wet and moving, but I have a working engine. Yay. See you out around ci next week bob.
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On May 17, 2009, at 3:34 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi Rich,I’m well aware of the power of ice – but as Iived on the boat all winter and the bilge never went below 40 degrees (because the water didn’t), I know that that wasn’t the problem. The problem was caused by point loading the hollow part and essentially crushing it. My bad, as I had the marina put the block there – that said, on my Ranger 30, the false keel part of the boat behind the ballast was so thick and solid that you could block it there and drop the lead for rebedding.
Lesson learned. On my way now!
Regard,
Bob
On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 9:27 AM, Rich Carter <()> wrote:
Quote:There is a common problem with boats with deep sumps such as the 424. If water fills the sump area during winter layup, it will expand when freezing and crack the back of the keel. Water can get in any number of ways including a hose failure or just rainwater through the locker lids and engine dorade vents. Hose failure can occur if water accumulates inside the hose until it gets clogged with ice. Once the bottom of the hose gets blocked, the upper section will fill with water. This may split the hose open when it freezes. I throw some rock-salt in the deck drains every now and then if it looks like ice is building up in there. I’ve had three-foot long icicles hanging from my through-hulls. The worst offender is the copper drain pipe in the propane locker. This can get blocked very easilly and will split open if water freezes in there.There isn’t much you can do to keep all water out of your bilge during wither layup. I toss a couple of gallons of anti-freeze down there to keep the ice from freezing solid. If I’m careful about maintaining the boat during storage, I only get a couple of gallons of water down there during the winter.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Yar. I had a similar problem with that deep bilge. In Ft. Pierce we fixed a repair there done for PO in Mexico. And always make sure the blocking is first 1/3 of keel only.
Replaced filter element as well: will ascertain later if something is blocking the outflow port. And thanks to mr. Carter for the electric in line pump idea. That lift pump blows.
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On May 15, 2009, at 7:31 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
So, my splash didn’t happen because water was dripping out the bottom of the keel – not a good sign. A little grinder work and I find that this same problem has happened at least twice before in this boat’s life.
Lots of grinding and three 1/2″ holes into the bilge later I find that construction of that portion of the keel (and maybe more) is chintzy at best, dangerous at worst. I can only suppose that these boats were molded in halves and taped together at the seam. This would explain the 1/4″ of fiberglass down the seam and the crapload of filler at the keel’s bottom.
Feh – now repairing so that it’s the last time this happens.
Safety tip – DO NOT BLOCK THE AFT HALF OF THE KEEL. If any significant weight is placed on it, even just aft of the ballast, you could break it. I know, because that’s what made the problem so bad on this haul out.
As for you, Adam, fuel coming to the filter but not out means that the filter is plugged somehow – it may be a manufacturing defect. If you remove the filter and turn on the ignition, will fuel pour out? That is if you have an electric fuel pump? If you don’t you may have a weak lift pump, if there is one. Or, on the last change, a rag, sponge, cork, scalpel or forcept may have been left in there?
Those are the things I’d check first – bad filter, something plugging, then pump.
Bob
On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 3:18 PM, adam silverstein <()> wrote:
So the splash did not happen bc fuel, clean and rosy red, goes into my secondary filter but not out. It’s sporting a Fram 3166. Clean. What the hell?
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks guys. It’s 5/16.
-Chatty Cathy
(“details, details”)On May 14, 2009, at 11:54 AM, adam silverstein <> wrote:
What size flax packing? 3/8 is way too big. And do folks use packing
lubricant as well?-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
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That’s what I have. Pyle 3 1/2″. How are yours wired?
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On May 8, 2009, at 7:02 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Along those lines, I am going to mount my cockpit speakers under the Dodger or Bimini, but they’re the external box speakers, not the cutout mount in the wall kind.-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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all the way in? a magnet? Shop vac & duct tape? piece of flexible plastic with gum on it?
On May 2, 2009, at 6:16 PM, Aaron Lynch wrote:Well, today I went to install my new $325 glow plugs.
The good news is I discovered the broken one did not go into the cylinder.
The bad news is the broken one seems to be in the glow plug chamber, and it seems to be flush and pretty well corroded in, so I cant retrieve it with tweezers or the like.
So I’m guessing I have to take the head off right? Unless someone has a easier trick? Any gotchas to taking the head off a w60?
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And we reserve the list for more substantive discussion. That would be
efficient and courteous.-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)On Apr 30, 2009, at 7:54 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Went to England and am back now. Perhaps we should start our own
‘Twitter’. Then we could spend endless hours tweeting each other.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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How’dja get the gnarly glue off?
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On Apr 29, 2009, at 6:02 PM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I’ve painted most of mine with BilgeCoat. Then added a layer of Reflectix.
alan— On Wed, 4/29/09, howard < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I’m in the same boat, only my aft bunk and vee are also stripped of vinyl & foam, leaving the charming glue residue. Bob F. warns that MEK will also remove certain childhood memories and 2/3 of your liver. I have tried other somewhat less toxic adhesive removers but these proved less than great. Minnesota Mining & Mfg., anyone?
Law Offices of Adam Silverstein, P.C.
(212) 233 4995
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Is there one? Just got e8012s Mexican bomba de fuel to make bleeding
easier and to split to heater in bulkhead. Dirty filter would explain
long lag in filling stroke.-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)On Apr 2, 2009, at 8:27 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Hi Pat,
When I changed the one on the engine, I placed a big plastic cup
under it and some of that absorbent stuff below that – if you’re
careful, you won’t spill much – very little.I’m wondering if anyone with a W58 has ever changed the filter in
the lift pump. The electric pump has an integral filter. I know
because I have replacement cartridges from Westerbeke just for that.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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