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Or go with Spartite. Then all you need is a Sunbrella collar around mast
to keep the UV off the Spartite. That and a little BoatLife sealant
whenever you unstep and re-step the mast.
Which reminds me, my Sunbrella collar is looking a little frayed after 10
years.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, May 15, 2013 at 2:52 PM, wrote:
Quote:I’ve mentioned this a few times in the past. Please excuse me if you’ve
read this description before.I use a plastic trash-bag and white duck-tape for my mast boot. I wrap
the mast and collar with the trash-bag and then wrap the bag with
duck-tape. I’ve never had a leak and the price is right. I start at the
bottom and wrap my way up the mast for a length of about 16 inches. I have
a cloth collar that hides the tape. I wrap the top of this with white
vinyl tape just to make it neat. West used to sell the cloth collar but I
no longer see it in their catalog. They last about 15 years or so. It’s
just for looks and it keeps sunlight off the tape. I sewed a new one up
last season. It has a bungee cord sewn in the bottom to hook into the mast
collar.It takes a real man to work a sewing machine.
Rich
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Dan,
The mizzen mast rests on a shoe screwed into the cockpit sole. It will
lift off the shoe once the rigging and any electrical wires are
disconnected.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, May 15, 2013 at 10:19 AM, kalinowski wrote:
I’m planning to pull the sticks for refinishing. The boat’s still on
O’ahu and I’m back on the mainland and can’t visualize how the mizzen is
fixed to the cockpit floor. Any guidance/advice out there so I can prepare
before my trip back? MahaloDan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Tor,
Alan wrote “Besides that you have to check off the cheeseburger at the
White horse Tavern from your bucket list and a dark and stormy.”.Actually the best meal in St. Georges is the fried Wahoo sandwhich at
Evangeline’s.Aren’t you sorry you asked for recommendations. Actually, I guess you
didn’t.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, May 14, 2013 at 7:50 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Oh yeah – Tor, more info on a place you don’t want to visit.
If you need to pick up provisions, White’s Supermarket on St. Davids is
pretty close to a US supermarket in quality and quantity. Of course you
will think you have been shopping at Dean and Deluca when you hit the
checkout. You can take a bus from St. Georges to White’s, but it’s best to
take a taxi back if you bought perishables.
Alan is right about the info required before being given permission to
enter the harbor. Best to download the form tonight. No need to submit
it, but at least you can gather all the info before you are contacted by
Bermuda Harbor Radio. You can get the from from noonsite.com.
Most of the marinas in St. Georges are $2.50/ft, so that duty free fuel
may not be such a great deal if you need less than 60 gallons.Have a great sail.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, May 14, 2013 at 7:33 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Tor,
If you need to re-fuel check with Dowlings (St. Georges) or the marina
across the bay (St. Davids, I think). A yacht in transit can get duty free
fuel if you ask nice. You will need to put into a Marina (Capt Smokes or
that other one across the bay) because the fuel has to come from the fuel
truck. If it comes from a pump at the fuel dock you will pay all the duty
and taxes.
Eight years ago we were departing St. Georges and were waiting to get to
the Downling’s fuel dock – didn’t know about the duty free fuel then.
Neither did a delivery skipper on a 100′ sailboat that was tied to the fuel
dock. After taking on 1,000 gallons or so he refused to pay the bill at
$3+/litre. He had to be threatened with jail to get him to pay the bill
and leave the dock so we could take on about 60 gallons.
One the return from Europe I was clued in on the duty free fuel and that
cost about $2/litre. Still expensive, but ….Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, May 14, 2013 at 6:23 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:John Stevenson, Alan & John Sommer,Thank you for your feedback, advice and (JS) CHARTS! Excellent stuff. I
will
do my best to bypass Bermuda, but it’s pretty windless out there now and
I
may decide it’s worth the high price to refuel en route to St. Maarten.
We’ll see.Your input is much appreciated.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Oh yeah – Tor, more info on a place you don’t want to visit.
If you need to pick up provisions, White’s Supermarket on St. Davids is
pretty close to a US supermarket in quality and quantity. Of course you
will think you have been shopping at Dean and Deluca when you hit the
checkout. You can take a bus from St. Georges to White’s, but it’s best to
take a taxi back if you bought perishables.
Alan is right about the info required before being given permission to
enter the harbor. Best to download the form tonight. No need to submit
it, but at least you can gather all the info before you are contacted by
Bermuda Harbor Radio. You can get the from from noonsite.com.
Most of the marinas in St. Georges are $2.50/ft, so that duty free fuel may
not be such a great deal if you need less than 60 gallons.Have a great sail.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, May 14, 2013 at 7:33 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Tor,
If you need to re-fuel check with Dowlings (St. Georges) or the marina
across the bay (St. Davids, I think). A yacht in transit can get duty free
fuel if you ask nice. You will need to put into a Marina (Capt Smokes or
that other one across the bay) because the fuel has to come from the fuel
truck. If it comes from a pump at the fuel dock you will pay all the duty
and taxes.
Eight years ago we were departing St. Georges and were waiting to get to
the Downling’s fuel dock – didn’t know about the duty free fuel then.
Neither did a delivery skipper on a 100′ sailboat that was tied to the fuel
dock. After taking on 1,000 gallons or so he refused to pay the bill at
$3+/litre. He had to be threatened with jail to get him to pay the bill
and leave the dock so we could take on about 60 gallons.
One the return from Europe I was clued in on the duty free fuel and that
cost about $2/litre. Still expensive, but ….Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, May 14, 2013 at 6:23 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:John Stevenson, Alan & John Sommer,Thank you for your feedback, advice and (JS) CHARTS! Excellent stuff. I
will
do my best to bypass Bermuda, but it’s pretty windless out there now and I
may decide it’s worth the high price to refuel en route to St. Maarten.
We’ll see.Your input is much appreciated.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor,
If you need to re-fuel check with Dowlings (St. Georges) or the marina
across the bay (St. Davids, I think). A yacht in transit can get duty free
fuel if you ask nice. You will need to put into a Marina (Capt Smokes or
that other one across the bay) because the fuel has to come from the fuel
truck. If it comes from a pump at the fuel dock you will pay all the duty
and taxes.
Eight years ago we were departing St. Georges and were waiting to get to
the Downling’s fuel dock – didn’t know about the duty free fuel then.
Neither did a delivery skipper on a 100′ sailboat that was tied to the fuel
dock. After taking on 1,000 gallons or so he refused to pay the bill at
$3+/litre. He had to be threatened with jail to get him to pay the bill
and leave the dock so we could take on about 60 gallons.
One the return from Europe I was clued in on the duty free fuel and that
cost about $2/litre. Still expensive, but ….Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, May 14, 2013 at 6:23 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:John Stevenson, Alan & John Sommer,Thank you for your feedback, advice and (JS) CHARTS! Excellent stuff. I
will
do my best to bypass Bermuda, but it’s pretty windless out there now and I
may decide it’s worth the high price to refuel en route to St. Maarten.
We’ll see.Your input is much appreciated.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor,
My Bimini has flaps that cover the zippers, which prevent all but very
minor leakage. I do use zipper lubricant (available at most upholstery and
sewing shops), which may help. I’d be cautious of anything that might gum
up the zippers or anything that is solvent based (e.g., 303).Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 10:14 AM, Silverheels wrote:
I have several zippers in my bimini top that I’d like to make waterproof.
Seems to me I’ve heard of some goop you can apply to do that, perhaps
specifically made for zippers (but I’m not sure of that). Anybody know what
works? These zippers are used frequently.Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
My symptom was 30+ years old and some yacht delivery $$ burning a hole in
my pocket. I had the RV20 rebuilt in the first year of my ownership and it
never caused my any problems thereafter. I did have a lot of gear
backlash noise at the time I replaced it, but it turns out that was the
damper plate not the V-drive.
So I guess my decision was based on an expectation it would fail in the
near future and I could afford the replacement so it must be time to do it.
I didn’t inspect the RV20 or have it analyzed after it was removed. It
might have lasted another 30 years.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Apr 8, 2013 at 7:29 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Those of you who have replaced your V-drive, how did you know you needed
to?
What were the symptoms?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I must admit there has been a lot of inconsistent information on the
subject of free-wheeling Velvet Drives. I wonder if that inconsistency is
because the vast majority of installed VDs have a reduction gear. That
reduction gear may be turned by the free-wheeling prop and could be
damaged. As far as I know all 424s have a direct drive VD with the
reduction gear in the V-Drive. That was the context of my discussion with
the VD experts.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 11:34 AM, John Stevenson
wrote:Lee,
Your statement about the Velvet Drive tranny is inconsistent with what the
Velvet Drive tech reps have told me. Until engine starts to turn the gears
in the tranny are not engaged and do not turn. The only thing turning is
the output spline, none of the internal parts are turning.
Anyway that’s what I have been told on repeated inquiries to mechanics and
tech reps familiar with the Velvet Drive.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 11:20 AM, Bead Game wrote:
Those boats that a Warner velvet drive transmission had a prop lock
installed. The Warner transmission should not free wheel as there is no
lubrication when the engine is not runnning.
The original Proplock was hydraulicly deactivated by transmission oil
pressure. This has worked fine. However the company that made it is very
long out business.
I have been able to fabricate my own break pads as the old ones wore
out. Recently the bronze casting began to fail. I installed a
reconditioned feathering Max Prop to avoid free wheeling. It has worked.
Lee Hirsch
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Lee,
Your statement about the Velvet Drive tranny is inconsistent with what the
Velvet Drive tech reps have told me. Until engine starts to turn the gears
in the tranny are not engaged and do not turn. The only thing turning is
the output spline, none of the internal parts are turning.
Anyway that’s what I have been told on repeated inquiries to mechanics and
tech reps familiar with the Velvet Drive.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 11:20 AM, Bead Game wrote:
Those boats that a Warner velvet drive transmission had a prop lock
installed. The Warner transmission should not free wheel as there is no
lubrication when the engine is not runnning.
The original Proplock was hydraulicly deactivated by transmission oil
pressure. This has worked fine. However the company that made it is very
long out business.
I have been able to fabricate my own break pads as the old ones wore
out. Recently the bronze casting began to fail. I installed a
reconditioned feathering Max Prop to avoid free wheeling. It has worked.
Lee Hirsch
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If I had to guess he does not have a pump cycle meter to tell if the pump
has come on, and he might not notice the boat was slowly taking on water.
Visually checking the bilge would provide a warning. Of course that
should be done even when the pump is on automatic as well.
I also don’t have a meter (got one, just never installed). Sometime during
the crossing to Portugal in 2005 the stuffing box on the rudder post
loosened and we started to take on water. I only noticed it when the leak
was sufficient to turn on the pump about once an hour on the way from the
Azores to Cascais. If I had noticed the pump cycling on the prior legs I
could have tightened the stuffing box in Bermuda or Horta. By the time we
got to Cascais it was cycling every 30 minutes, but only for about 20
seconds to the pump was easily keeping up with the leak. After we berthed
in the marina the cycling decreased to about once a day.
The real solution is to install that cycle meter – one of these days.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Mar 17, 2013 at 9:10 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Quent,Why do you shut off the electric bilge pump breaker offshore?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Tor,
Haven’t done it myself, but a friend’s boat had the mast wrapped in a foam
backed vinyl sealed with velcro. That boat was built in Sweden so it was a
standard piece of equipment.
I suspect you could get similar material at an auto or RV parts store.Almost slipped on the frost on the dock this morning. Even friends down in
Punta Gorda are complaining. Where’s Global Warming when you really need
it.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 10:07 AM, Silverheels wrote:
OMG, there’s ICE ON THE DECK! And I thought I was wintering in Florida.
Has anyone insulated their mainmast belowdecks. Any suggestions regarding
insulating material?Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
When you click on the “?” button you should get the “About OpenCPN”
window. Clicking the “Help” tab should open the documentation in your
browser. The first part of the documentation is a table of contents, each
entry in which should be Hyperlinked to the document. If this is not the
case then you may have a bad install.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Feb 2, 2013 at 8:46 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Finally, here’s the link to a .zip file for the HTML version of the
manual. Somewhere in the OpenCPN program directory is a manuals
directory. Unzipping this there should give you a complete set of manuals
as you use the program.https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5btHG0zM5TGWnRkX2E0QXROVnc/edit?usp=sharing
I’ll keep the file up for a while as I mentioned for the .pdf file.
Bob
On Sat, Feb 2, 2013 at 8:29 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Bob,
Yes, please do put that manual (in any format besides 7z) somewhere
where I
Quote:can then download it – without burdening the forum with it.Clicking on the ? in my OpenCPN does lead to the manual’s Table of
Contents,
but nothing more.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Tor,
Yes, I was your taster for the documentation download. Least I could do
after giving you the link that lead to disaster. I’ve downloaded the file,
and Winzip will unzip it. As Bob noted it is a set of HTML files that can
be accessed via your browser. These are the same files as provided with
the OpenCPN download and accessed via the “?” button in OpenCPN, so you
should not have to download anything.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Feb 2, 2013 at 7:38 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Oh, and 7zip archives are open sourced as well so they don’t have to pay
licensing to the people who created the zip archives.On Sat, Feb 2, 2013 at 7:37 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Tor,
Ok, now I understand the problem. The 7zip file is an archive your
Windows can’t read and it looked for a program to read it and you picked
the big green button that gave you something else. I’ve just downloaded
the manual and I’ve extracted it and I’ll re-zip it so you can read it if
you want. Bad news, it’s 20mb, and it’s an HTML manual so you need toread
it with a browser.
They’re not being cagey. It’s open source meaning it’s free and they
develop these things for fun and maybe some profit if anyone deigns to
donate. So documentation is last on their list of things to do.
Programmers, by and large, are lazy. Good programmers are very lazy.
Lazy, in this case, is a good thing because they will find the shortest,
easiest way to get a particular function to work.I just checked my OpenCPN and the manual is already installed and I don’t
remember specially doing it. If you start OpenCPN and click on the ?
button what happens?Bob
On Sat, Feb 2, 2013 at 6:58 AM, Silverheels
wrote:
Quote:Quote:Thanks, Patrick, but the opencpn.org site from which I downloaded the
file
that crashed my computer looked safe to me, too.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Tor,
I just downloaded the OpenCPN dcoument from here:
http://opencpn.org/ocpn/download. It is a local version of the online
documentation.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 4:49 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Can someone either email me the most current OpenCPN User Manual, or else
tell me (with certainty) where I can download it safely? I think I’m on a
safe site where I can read it online, but if they’re offering a way to
download it they are being very discrete about it.Thanks,
iWizKid
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Ve hav vays of making you believe
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:06 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Great. Now how do I know you’re really John Stevenson giving me this
information and not some commie cyber terrorist hell-bent on ruining a
cruising sailor’s day?😉
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