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Tor,
The link I gave you appears to be to a hacked webpage. That is not real
OpenCPN home page. This is the correct link: http://opencpn.org/ocpn/node.
If you go to that page you will see a valid advert and no green button.
Someone wanted you to make the mistake you did. This was not an oversight
on your part.
I’ve told OpenCPN they need to clean that up.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Thanks, John. I figured all that out after the fact. The problem (for me,
anyway) was their placement of that GIANT GREEN DOWNLOAD button right next
to their OpenCPN nav program description. Later I went back and noticed the
discreet “Advertisement” tag above the GIANT DOWNLOAD BUTTON. So the case
can be made that I just wasn’t paying close enough attention, but from the
amount of advertising there and the dozen or so Donate buttons, I get the
feeling they’re a bit overzealous about augmenting their revenues.I’m still working on reclaiming and reloading my nav laptop. Later I’ll
give
that program download another shot – very carefully.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Tor,
Sorry to hear about you problems with OpenCPN.org. That Download link is
for an advertisement on the home page. Looks like it has been hacked or
setup as a scam. The program downloads are on a separate page reached by
the download tab at the top of the page. I’ve posted your problem in the
OpenCPN section of the Cruisers Forum. Hopefully they will get that bogus
download button removed ASAP.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 1:48 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:So much for an Open mind. I went to some page on http://www.opencpn.org this
morning to download the OpenCPN nav program. I clicked on a big green
DOWNLOAD button right next to their glowing description of their program
and
wound up downloading some new kind of iZip file program. I went along with
it, thinking this is how OpenCPN wants to transfer their files. Turned out
this damned zip program did not contain the OpenCPN program files, but did
mess around with my computer settings including changing my default
homepage. As soon as I realized I’d been scammed, I Uninstalled the
program.
That’s when I realized my computer was FUBAR. Major program links didn’t
work. Desktop icons moved, vanished and displayed strangely. I couldn’t do
anything. OK, time to Restore the computer’s settings to where they were
before all this hit the fan. But whatever attacked my system had disabled
System Restore. Nothing worked. In the end, I had to run the laptop’s
Recovery disc, completely erasing everything on the hard drive including
the
operating system, and then start all over with re-installing Windows. I’m
now beginning the hours-long process of bringing my computer back from the
dead, reinstalling programs, etc, etc. Thank God this was only my dedicated
navigation laptop that I had only recently emptied and Recovered, and not
my
new main computer with which I’m writing now.From all I’ve read and heard, OpenCPN is a good program. I’ll probably try
downloading it again when I get the nav laptop to a point where I can. But
BEWARE! That kind, benevolent website, opencpn.org, is loaded with
advertising booby-traps, links to places you do not want to go. Assholes.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
I really believe you will have better luck using OpenCPN rather than
SeaClear II. Sounds like you may those CM-93 charts or maybe the Russian
charts. OpenCPN is supposed to handle CM-93. As far as i know SeaClear II
only handles raster charts.
The other reason to use OpenCPN is that it is in active development,
whereas SeaClear has not been updated since 2006 and is likely to never
have another update. The developer has made it clear he is not interested
in hearing from users.
I’ve been using OpenCPN for cruising up and down the US East Coast for the
last two years. If I go to the Bahamas this coming winter I’ll likely
switch back to SOB so I can use my C-Map charts.
http://opencpn.org/ocpn/Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Jan 19, 2013 at 2:10 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I have not seen that one, Paul. I already know and like Capn Voyager 6
and would like to stick with it if I can. If not, then I’ll have to
learn a new trick. SeaClear seems to be popular and it’s also free.
Don’t know yet whether it’ll read all of the charts I have. Pretty sure
it’ll read at least some.I’ll keep OpenCPN in mind, too.
Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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If you have the standard Edson pedestal with which most p424 were equipped,
remove the compass and you will have access to the inside of the pedestal
from the top.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Jan 19, 2013 at 9:28 AM, cstewart wrote:
Thanks everyone for your input on the injection pump. I took the old one
off and had it rebuilt at a specialty shop, $585.00. Done.Now I have a new problem. While putting everything back together, I
noticed that my Throttle Cable is bad and needs replacing. I thought,
simple, just pull a new cable and attach. Here’s the question: how in the
world do you get inside the pedestal?
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
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Tor,
Years ago a plastics fabricator recommended Silpruf to me as having the
best coefficient of expansion for bedding plexiglass. I assume it would
be equally good for Lexan. I used in on a previous boat to bed Plexiglass
sheets over very large portlights on the cabin trunk sides. The ports
never leaked for the next 15 years of my ownership.
However, why not go with the rope caulk solution you recommended several
years. I used it on several deck fittings and they have held up fine.
Don’t know how well it works with acrylics.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 12:42 PM, Rick Dugger wrote:
Quote:Don Casey in Sail Magazine March 2009 recommended
GE Silpruf SCS2000 or Dow 795 Silicone Building SealantRick
EclipseOn Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 12:34 PM, Silverheels
wrote:Quote:GE silicone SSG4000 seems to be a more adhesive version of GE SilPruf
SCS2002, but the latter’s specs mention UV resistance. I guess that’s
the way to go.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Jack,
Several owners have made that modification. I think the first was Hal
Sutphen, when he owned Sea Duty. Here is a link to the web page I created
for the project on Sarah.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewEngineBox.htmRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Dec 10, 2012 at 7:11 AM, calicojack wrote:
Hi All:
I can’t find the photos of converting the engine cover to three sections.
Help.
!’m going to remove the engine for gaskets and re painting. I plan to
scrape off the thirty years of oil leaking into the engine pan & bilge.
I also plan to start drinking again just as soon as I get started with the
project!
Much Appreciated / Jack “MOJO”
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*On the subject of avoiding sewage line clogs I recommend not flushing the
TP. Initially I used that procedure only for off-shore passages, not
wanting to have to clear a blockage while underway. I bought a package of
paper lunch bags and everyone deposited their TP in one and threw it
overboard when finished. Eventually I avoided flushing TP even when
dockside. I placed a small waste basket next to the toilet and emptied it
periodically with other garbage.
Now that I have a composting toilet I am no longer concerned about sewage
line clogs, but I still want to reduce the volume in the compost bin. If I
had a holding tank I would want to do the same.
Everytime I’ve had to clear a sewage clog I found TP at the clog point.
Calcium buildup in the lines was usually the real cause, but it was the TP
that formed the clog.*
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Dec 1, 2012 at 9:01 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Vinegar will destroy brass and bronze – both of which are easily attacked
by acids. The PH II is all plastic except for the weight on the flapper
and the pump rod which is stainless steel. It’s also really easy to
rebuild.But vinegar for short periods does remove the calcium and salts that plate
out on rubber parts. Just don’t leave it in for more than a couple of
hours.Bob
On Sat, Dec 1, 2012 at 8:49 PM, wrote:
…left too long (two weeks), however, vinegar will dissolve or damage
the
seals and valves. I have a GROCO & know from personal experience. And
rebuilding one of those is a royal pain which I happily pay them to do
every 3
to 4 years (nine months liveaboard / yr). When this happened after the
vinegar “soak” they sent me the old parts to illustrate just what the
vinegar
had done. Otherwise, it is an great, although expensive, head.BILL TICE~in residence ~*I*I*TREEHOUSE *I*I*I*~ Smith Mt. Lake, VA
In a message dated 12/1/2012 6:45:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:I always pump some white vinegar through the head and let it set when I
leave the boat for a while. Doing this once a month keeps the “coral
build
up” off of the joker valve and inner workings.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu
m2f
Read this topic online here:
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?p=11764#11764
m2f
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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Pete and Tor’s input is consistent with my experience. When I had new
engine mounts fabricated 4 years ago, there was a good deal of fiberglass
work done. This was in the winter so the boat was closed up. There was a
strong smell on the days the resin was applied, but it went away in a few
hours. When gelcoat was applied I moved off for two days. When I returned
there was only a faint odor of the Styrene.John
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Nov 18, 2012 at 11:11 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:There is no styrene in epoxy resin or hardener (I checked the MSDS’s for
the west system. Gelcoat has styrene. To my experience, the smell of
the resin goes away one it has hardened.Pete
On 11/18/2012 8:31 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:IMHO, yes, you’re being overly paranoid about the styrene. Get it done,
do it right, don’t worry, be happy.
🙂
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Dos Locos,
I just took a look at your pics. Any chance you are related to Bob
Bitchin? Meant as a compliment, hopefully no offense taken.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 5:27 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Thanks for your input, Dos. What do you mean by “a wrap stop at the
top?”Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Original Message
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Tor,
I believe any of the major providers (Harken, ProFurl, Schaefer, Famet,
etc) are quality products that will serve well. I also have a Harken
furler (came with the boat – must be at least 20 years old) and it is still
working well. I just have to clean the bearings with fresh water and
occasionally a cleanser. As Dos Locos experienced, having to use a sheet
winch to furl the head sail is a sign of a problem. Either the furler is
not working properly (bearings shot, halyard wrap, etc.) or it is not being
operated properly. I’ve often had to stop friends crewing for me to not
put the furling line on the winch just because they cannot pull in the reef
line by hand. Usually easing the sheet a couple of feet reduces the
pressure and the sail can be furled by hand. In any case if the furling
line cannot be pulled in by hand, then stop and try to figure out why
before using the power of sheet winch to break something.
So my recommendation is go with any of the major brands and use price as a
determining factor. For someone with less boat project experience than
yourself, I would recommend using a qualified rigger to do the
installation. Installation problems appear to be the source of most issues.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 5:02 PM, Dos Locos wrote:
I replaced mine 2 year ago with the Harken Cruising Unit 2, very happy
with it. I didn’t like the PorFurl due to how it had a wrap stop at the
top, also didn’t like the old look to it. Both models are similar in the
tubing and with the mounting styles. My old furling system I had to use a
winch handle to furl the sail, now I can use my hands. Wow what a
difference. I was able to install it myself with a little help from a
friend to hoisted it up.
Dos Loco’s
Pearson 424 #71https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=5736C29B2A4E72A8!233&authkey=!AIvR0SRxE9KBaFs
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Sounds like it might be one of these
http://www.simplehuman.com/products/kitchen-organization/cabinet-organizers/grey-cabinet-organizer.htmlRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 4:20 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Do you have a link to it?
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Nov 8, 2012 3:50 PM, “kalinowski” wrote:For all who long for more convenient access to the built in shelf of the
old Pearson ice box, there is hope! I found a sliding shelf unit at the
Simply Human store that fits perfectly! The unit has a base that can be
mounted on the old FG shelf and consists of a very nice chrome (SS?)
sliding shelf that has adjustable dividers to fit your whatever. And it
was reasonably priced.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Charlie,
Yes, I usually had an airlock problem with my W60 when flushing the
coolant. Almost always it was in the hoses going to the water heater. I
disconnected the hoses and poured antifreeze into one hose until it was
flowing out of the other hose, then reconnected the hoses to the engine.
That always fixed the problem.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Oct 16, 2012 at 11:18 AM, cstewart wrote:
Is there any reason to believe I wouldn’t have this same air-lock problem
inherent in the W60? I need to refresh my antifreeze but don’t want to
invent any problems that I don’t already have.Charlie
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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Dennis,
Here is a link to the modifications I made to the cabin sole for access:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeStorage.htm#Under_Cabin_Sole
Bob has pictures and descriptions of the modifications he did on his
website. I stole the idea from him, but didn’t do nearly as elegant of
job.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Oct 6, 2012 at 8:35 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Yes, you can, but you should tab the ends to the stringer.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 6, 2012 8:32 AM, “Miss Kathleen” wrote:Hi All,
The saloon floor around the mast felt kind of soft. On examination I
noticed that there was a gap between the bottom of the bunk and thesaloon
floor.
More access to the bilges has always been on my list, so I removed part
of
the cabin sole in this area.
There are two supports that run across the boat, but they do not have any
support from the hull.The question is – can one use the structural in-built glass fibre
stringers as a base to add vertical supports for the cross beams.Appreciate any comments
Regards
Dennis
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Will be there on Thurs. Maybe back again on Monday if I can make a deal on
display itemRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Oct 1, 2012 at 8:08 PM, Dale L wrote:
Cori and I are planning on being there Friday and Saturday.
On 10/1/2012 7:40 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Will be there Thursday and maybe Friday am
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Jack,
Sounds to me like you may have two problems.1. The Balmar is not outputing a full charge to your house bank. You
don’t say what type of battery you have in the house bank, but no matter
the type the charge voltage should be over 14V. I would suspect a fault
or set-up problem in the regualator. The battery voltage should drop down
to below 12.9 shortly after the charging stops. So this sounds normal.
What is the voltage when on shore power?
2. The battery monitor shows a significant discharge when everything is
turned off. I assume this a just a couple of amps and all of the breakers
on the panel are off. In that case I would look at the circuits that do
not go through the panel breakers (SSB radio?). However, first I would
insure the battery monitor is installed and working properly.Good luck.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 9:31 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
More questions….
How old are you batteries?
Did you check the water level in the batteries?
When were the batteries last equalized?If you do not now own these books, I highly recommend them.
Nigel Calder: Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual
Don Casey: Sailboat Electrics Simplified
-p
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@DeepPlaya |
W7PEAOn Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 9:22 PM, Jack P Clarke
wrote:Hello everyone,
The problems that I’m having are on the DC side of things. When running
the engine all day, the house bank only gets up toabout 13.3 V, Thenwhen
I sut it down it drops to 12.9 and lower quite fast, in an hour or two.
This happens when there is basicaly nothing on. The same thing happens
after being hooked up to shore-side power or a generator.
The starter battery is no problem @ 14.5 V.
I had both alternators rebuilt in May, the house bank is charged by a
Balmar 100 amp. and the start battery is charged by a 40 amp boshe. Iput
a new voltage regulator in for the Balmar in August. The start battery
was
new in April, the windlas/bow thruster battery new in June and the house
bank new in August.
In May I had a guy do some work on the boat and one of the thinggs he put
in was a BEP Marine DC/AC meter and it tells you the charging rate aswell
the discharging rate and it shows something is drawing a lot of amps, and
this is with everything shut off.
I don’t know where or how to look for the problem.Bill I will give you a call tomorrow morning. I’m in Jackson’s Creek
right
in front of the marina.
Jack
Xanadu IVOn Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Jack,
Can you describe them? AC or DC? A particular item or a bunch of
items?
I’m sure there are people on the site that can give you some great
ideas
for tracking them down and dealing with them.
Glad to see you’re making your way south! I wish I was there…
Bob
On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:50 AM, Jack P Clarke
wrote:Hi everybody,
I have been experiencing some electrical problems for the last little
while
and I can’t track down the problem. The meter that I had installed
back
in
May says that I an discharging power somewhere and I can’t find it.
My
electrical skills are very basic.
Does anyone know of a good electrical guy in the Deltaville / Norfolkarea
that is reasonable. Or anywhere south of there, we are flexible as
we
are
en route to the Bahamas. We will be in Deltaville most likely today
and
Norfolk by Sunday possibly.
The internet coverage is patchy to non-existent at times so pleasebare
with me on replies.
Thanks
Jack Clarke
Xanadu IV
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