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Dan,
Are those two raw water outlets in addition to the bilge pump outlet? If
the second is your bilge pump then you may have a leak somewhere causing
the bilge pump to come on. Two likely sources of a leak are the stuffing
boxes on the propeller shaft and the rudder post. I’ve had a small,
persistent leak on my rudder post.for years in spite of tightening the
stuffing box and repacking it.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, May 12, 2012 at 8:29 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
I have two raw water outlets, too, except one is the bilge pump. There
should be only one from the engine unless you have an oddball muffler.
There could be a bypass if you do. It would run water in excess of what’s
needed to cool the exhaust.Bob
On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 8:14 AM, kalinowski <
wrote:
Related question. No problem, but I’m trying to understand my cooling
system. I have two raw water outlets on my transom. Occasionally, when
the engine is under load, I have raw water ejected from both outlets. No
overheating problems, but I’m trying to understand this system. Isanyone
else’s boat rigged the same (W 58).
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Joe hit all the places I would check before even looking at the V-Drive.
How long did you run the engine with no water coming out the exhaust? If
there is a complete blockage or the inlet valve was closed you probably
have a torn impeller even if it was OK when you started the engine. Was
the engine hauled for the winter and the seawater system drained? If so it
can take as nearly a minute for the water to start flowing out the exhaust.Good luck,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, May 11, 2012 at 11:51 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Is your raw water inlet valve open?Is your raw water filter screen clogged?
Is your impellor functional?
I doubt it’s your V-Drive…
My thoughts….good luck!
Joe,
Half Moon,________________________________
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Well, I found one leak in my water tank, and hopefully the only one:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewWaterTankLeak.htmlThankfully it is any easy one to fix and should not require cutting any
holes in the tank for access.
The only cutting I did was what I should have done years ago – cut an
access hole through the bulkhead aft of the settee. I found the hose barb
fitting for the delivery hose had broken (from fatigue I guess). I’m
letting the tank dry out a bit before I install a new fitting and delivery
hose.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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I didn’t say there were a bad company to deal with, just average.
My experience with them was in 2005 to fabricate the rigging for my stay
sail, install new lifelines, and make me a stay sail with a deck bag.– They ignored my CAD drawing of one of the stay sail fittings and it
had to be redone
– The lifelines were supposed to be stainless, but were galvanized. (My
fault for letting them talk me into vinyl coated wire). The lifelines
broke last year from corrosion.
– The stay sail was delivered too late to allow me to determine it was
too large for the application. I depended on them to propose a correctly
proportioned sail.
– I had to delay my departure from Friday to Monday because they forgot
about the deck bag, and then it was not made as I had specified. At least
I did not have to pay for it.As I say, an average marine vendor, nothing special.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 8:13 AM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Quote:John,
I was surprised by your statement too. Any time someone delivers on time,
under budget, with a very good product including a few little extras at no
additional charge I’m happy.Lee
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Guys, I think Tor is asking about sheets (AKA lines) not sails. My
experience with Mack Sails was just OK, no recommendation from me.
Best deals on lines (other than special sales) was to purchase NE rope via
Port Supply (WM wholesale outlet). WM began business as a retailer for NE
Ropes back in the 70s. I think NE Ropes was owned by Randy Repass’ (WM
Founder) father-in-law. It is probably the single item with the largest
margin in the WM catalogue and if you can buy through Port Supply it
usually beats any other line supplier, except when they are dumping their
inventory. If you pay the WM retail prices it is only competitive.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comjust
On Mon, Apr 9, 2012 at 4:19 PM, hs wrote:Quote:Ditto on Mack Sails — those guys are great.Hank S.
Shay________________________________
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Tor is right. I’m going to need more access to the tank to locate the leak
and then seal it.
I took some pictures of the inside of the tank through my single access
port in the aft section. Naturally I can see no crack in the tank wall in
this section. So now I have to remove the sliding bunk board and cut an
access hole in the other sections of the tank.
If you want to see why I don’t drink the water in these tanks, just use it
for cooking (after running it through a Brita filter for taste) and
cleaning, go to http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewWaterTankLeak.htmlRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 10:05 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:It sounds like you had a lovely winter! I’ll whip one up and let you know
how it works.Bob
On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 10:03 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:And you’re right that the tanks need to be filled without leaking. That
one’s on my project list.I’d be very interested to see or hear about your instant rain catcher
design. I’m planning to make something along those lines before I set
sail again in fall. Even so, don’t count on it raining. I had only 2
sprinkles this whole winter!Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
Unfortunately I only have a single port on my tank, at the aft end. I may
have to drill some more holes through the bunk board and the top of the
tank.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sat, Apr 7, 2012 at 4:46 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:John,I’ve cleaned my port & starboard water tanks several times. Each has 3
inspection ports on the top. (You might have to pull out the plywood
bunk extension pieces to get to all of them.) Through those I can pretty
much reach all of the tank interior. With a flashlight and maybe a hand
mirror you might be able to find the leak and then seal it.Tor
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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Tor,
Makes sense using expendable line for the snubber. It’s just that if the
line is feed through either the stem padeye or bow shackle shown in your
2nd pic, it seems to me that line could chafe through in a matter or hours
not a season. I think I would at least run the line through a very large
galvanized block on the stem padeye to ease a little of the chafe. But you
say this is not necessary, at least in the short term.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Apr 5, 2012 at 6:43 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Hey John,Your labels are correct, and you’re right; some of the stress from the
anchor chain carries through the snubber line beyond the stem eye,
towards end “A” – but not as much as you think. I don’t pretend to
understand the physics of it, but there isn’t a lot of strain on the
snubber between the stem eye and the shackle on the end of the anchor
roller, and almost none beyond it to the cleat. Most of force is
expended on the stem eye. (Note, too, that I don’t have an extended
anchor roller platform, so a bit of strain on the anchor roller shackle
is not a concern).As for chafe on the snubber line, I don’t care. You can see the old,
thin line I’ve been using – just a scrap I had lying around when I
decided to try out this approach. It has now held the boat for around 12
months at anchor. It’s showing signs of chafe here and there, but so
what. If it eventually breaks before I replace it and the windlass has
to take hold of the anchor chain for a few minutes while I replace the
snubber, it’s not a big deal. If it worried another skipper on his own
boat, he could start out with a better piece of line and maybe even lay
on some chafe protection. Then it’d probably last for years, if not
longer.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
I don’t think I understand your snubber rig. I’ve edited your 3rd pic with
labels to document my lack of understanding.
If I am correct the load on the snubber line would go through the stem
fitting to the eye on the anchor roller and then back to the starboard
cleat.
It would seem there are two very serious chafe points on the snubber line.1. At the stem fitting
2. The shackle eye on the anchor rollerI must be missing something.
John Stevenson
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Jim,
It can go on either mast. On the main mast you will need some sort of
protection to keep it from being snagged by the head sail. On the mizzen
you will get a slight shadow from the main mast. You can mount the antenna
higher on the main mast, which may provide greater range. It may also
produce more motion on the array, which may affect target tracking.No real right or wrong choice. My antenna is mounted on the mizzen, just
below the spreaders.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Mar 30, 2012 at 1:35 PM, Jim Ashworth wrote:
I’m a radar novice. Does a radome need to go on the main mast, can it go on
the missen, or does it matter? Jim Ashworth
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Patrick,
More free advice.
I think if there was air in the coolant lines that would cause an overheat
at idle and out of gear. At least that was the result when I got air in
the lines of my W60. I had a similar problem to what you describe with my
W60 in the first year I owned Sarah. Cleaning the heat exchanger fixed the
problem, but since you did that only a few years ago, maybe that’s not the
problem. The problem does appear to be one of not being able move enough
heat out of the engine at other than low RPMS, so the exchanger certainly
would be the first thing I would check after sea water flow. Then maybe
the fresh water pump. If you lost a blade or a portion of one it also
might reduce the heat flow out of the engine.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 3:51 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Did you open the coolant cap BEFORE all this over heating happened (when
you split the fluid out) ? If so, you might just have a bubble in the
system. Because of the tilt in the engine, on the W58, you can get a small
bubble of air on the aft end of the coolant tank. This will cause it to
over heat.
“when you hear hoofs, think horses, not zebras”
alan— On Thu, 3/22/12, Peaboy Walters wrote:
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Looks like there are many variations on the fuel gauge sight glass. I
inherited a round Beckson port with a screw in clear cover. I had to
replace it a few years ago with another Beckson. When I replaced the fuel
tank in 2008 I went with another mechanical gauge. They’re pretty much
fool proof. The only thing more reliable would be an access port on the
tank and wooden stick. When on a passage I only need to check the fuel
once every other day or so. It’s not like this is something I monitor on a
real time basis so getting down on my 70-year old knees is not a big deal.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 5:04 PM, kalinowski wrote:
Aloha Bob: when you said that you just polished it and rebedded it, did
you mean that you polished the glass? If this is possible, what did you
use and how did you do it?Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Patrick,
Rich’s point is valid, but you are in Mexico. Down there you don’t need no
stinking codes[?]. Just to be a little safer, maybe could you buy a 20A
male plug and seal the inside (silicone?). Insert that into 20A female
plug that you are going to wire to the backside of the shore receptacle
when you are not running the generator. That way there is no open hot plug
in the lazarette on those rare occasions when you are plugged into shore
power.I think a little caution with what you are planning will prevent any
problems until you can get a proper adapter for the shore power receptacle.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Feb 17, 2012 at 4:04 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I’ve made that mistake. It isn’t the same…
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 17, 2012 3:58 PM, “Peaboy Walters” wrote:I did see a 15amp twist lock which could be wired to a cord. I didn’t
think the tong (?) or pin pattern was the same circumference as the
30amp. Maybe I was wrong though.-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 17, 2012, at 12:33, “”
wrote:My boat has a 30A 115v make receptacle for shore power. If you add a
second receptacle and feed power through it, the make plug will be hot.
This is a bad idea and must violate some codes.I made a 15A shore power adapter cord many years ago using a cheap
extension cord and a plug purchased at the hardware store. It wasn’t
expensive. You don’t really need a fancy marine plug for this.Quote:I use an EU-2000 on my boat. It works pretty well.Rich
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Bill,
+1 on Rich’s post. No matter how you do the repower (new or used, DIY or
hire it out) it is a major expense. Make sure you consider the cost of
having that used engine thoroughly surveyed (or what it might cost to have
a re-build if it has problems). Even the warranty on a new engine is
rarely for more than a year, and my experience with Mack Boring tells me
there is not such thing as “Good Will” with these guys. I hired out my
repower to a yard I had been dealing with for nearly 40 years. When there
were problems with the products provided by Mack Boring, that yard at least
understood the meaning of “Good Will”.My experience with motoring vrs pure sailing is pretty much in line with
both Rich and Tor. When I was a weekend and vacation cruiser like most of
your who are still working for a living (please keep making those FICA
payments – I really appreciate it) I needed to be home Sunday night even if
the wind was blowing 20kts on the nose. Since I’ve retired I’ve made about
4 trips up and down the ICW. Not much sailing there and you need power
when the current is against you and you are approaching a bridge that is
about to shut down for the rush hour traffic. Even when I’m on off-shore
passages I’ve used the engine more than I would like to admit. As Tor
points out, that is a choice not a requirement. However I often have to
take on crew for these passages, and they usually don’t buy into the purist
point of view. If I have enough fuel, the engine normally comes on when
the winds go too light for effective sailing.Since I did not have enough confidence in my skills as a mechanic I opted
out of the DIY repower approach. I spent months reviewing specs on the
various engine options. It came down to a choice between Yanmar and Beta.
There were no yards in my area (Pax River, MD) with good experience with
Beta. The best yard in the area was primarily a Yanmar dealer (and the
local distributor). They were also a Beta dealer, but as the Beta Brit in
NC told me that was just a $200 investment in the basic parts kit so they
could claim to being a Beta dealer. So I chose to have the yard install a
Yanmar – the engine they knew best.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comThanks, Bill.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 11:44 AM, wrote:
JOHN: CORRECTION. I’ve just been through all this. The current Tigress
motor is 1500, not 1200 Watts. Some of their materials still show the
motor as
1200W.Capt Bill Tice ,aboard s/v CHARISMA, 23*31.10N / 75*45.50W
George Town, Bahamas
In a message dated 2/6/2012 10:51:03 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
writes:Joe,
I have a manual Lofrans Royal, which appears have the same mechanics
(gears, chain wheels, etc.) as the TIgres, just lacks the motor on the
aft
end of the windlass. The chain off my Royal nearly drops directly into
the
deck locker. If the PO had installed it about 1″ further aft it would be
a
direct drop. As it is the chain rolls over the forward edge of the locker
without an coaxing by me. Since my windlass is manual, I’m standing in
the
locker when cranking in the chain. As castles build up I can easily kick
them down toward the forward, under deck, portion of the locker. I have
cranked nearly 200′ of 5/16″ G4 chain into this space with no problems.
I am considering replacing the Royal with a Tigres. The upper body
workout
I get with the Royal is losing its appeal.
How as that windlass worked for you. Most of the windlasses i’ve looked
at
(Quick, Maxwell, etc) offer a 1500W motor for vessels our size. The
Tigres
is 1200W. I’m trying to determine if those extra 300W are really
important as they cost a lot of $$$ over the price of the Tigres.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 9:47 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Robert,
What kind of windlass arrangement do you have? I have a Lofrans Trigres
and the chain needs to drop 90 degrees coming off the windlass. Sousing
the upper locker is very tricky for me. I like the idea of feeding it
there, even if temporarily to avoid castleing in the lower locker and
running back and forth to the v-berth..so I will try to figure a way to
feed it from the windlass without losing a finger or two if/when thechain
Quote:slips off the windlass.Joe,
Half Moon________________________________
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