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I also used the sound proof tiles from Sailor’s Solutions. Much easier to
work with than rolls of foam commonly used. As they advertise the adhesive
is very aggressive, no need for mechanical fasteners, although that is
still an option. I’ve only sound proofed the engine box cover, not the
area aft of the cover. Since the engine area is open to the bilge you will
never completely quiet the noise, but the Sailor’s Solution stuff works
great.
Like Pete, I rebuilt the engine box cover so I could break it down into
four flat pieces: http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewEngineBox.htmRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 21, 2012 at 2:54 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:West marine sells a 1 in and (1 1/2 inch or 2 inch) thick sheets of sound
proofing with hardware for mounting. Material is similar to the
deepplaya.com material.S
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Cedar Buckets: I’ve passed a few boats on the ICW who use them in the
cockpit. Those people should be required by law to have weather clothes.Pete, if the logs are still operational I’d put them up on eBay. I agree
with Bob, I bet there are people out there who will pay real money for them.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 8:14 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:And a cedar bucket.Quote:
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Walter,
I think that was Mare Geaux. I remember seeing it listed in the VI back in
2000 when I bought Sarah. It was listed for under $60K at the time.
Sounded like a good deal, except for the cost of bringing it back to the
Chesapeake. I think it also sunk in a Hurricane prior to 2000. According
to Pat’s boat list the boat is currently located in Tennesse, or at least
the owners live there.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 8:03 PM, Oldrodie wrote:
I saw it for sale on yachtworld about a year ago. Not sure where it ended
up.Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
On Sep 3, 2012, at 10:02 PM, “Seawater” wrote:
I few years back I encountered a Pearson 424 with a sugar scoop added to
her transom. It took me a while to figure out that it really was a 424. And
it looked good.Does anybody know whose boat that is or have pictures of it?
Walter
SV Madness
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Rodd,
You probably need to start with the distribution panel in the aft cabin
hanging locker. The wire from the running lights circuit breaker should go
to one of the terminal strips in this locker and then be connected to the
wires going to the stern and bow lights.
If you have the original Perko lights in the bow I would use this
opportunity to replace them with lights on the bow pulpit and get that
wiring out of the anchor locker.
Here is what I did:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Bow_Running_Lights_and_Bow_Rail_Re-bed_Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Jul 23, 2012 at 5:04 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
noticed my bow light was out– bulb had burned out and was half white in
color–previously a clear bulb! I used my VOM and detected a short since
there is continuity between the + and – with switch off. At $24 per bulb
I would rather not place a new one in there and have it blow out! I see
there is a terminal block in the anchor locker on the port side up under
the deck. I cleaned this off, detached the two wires going to the bow
light (mine is an Aqua Signal mounted on the pulpit). These wires tested
good. When I tested the remaining wires that run back below I found that
there was continuity in those 2 wires( I removed them from the terminal
block for the test) Anyone have a wiring diagram that shows where these
bow light wires go before the circuit breaker switch?.My question is does anyone know where to trace those wires so that I can
look for a short somewhere in that run? Note that my stern light (which
runs off the same circuit breaker as the bow light) works fine?? I would
think that if there were a short in the bow light the stern light would
blow as well? Any help here is appreciated!!Thanks!
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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Walter,
I have a 10-year old 135 Genoa, which has served me well and still has good
shape. If you go with a 145 and a high clew you will likely have to sheet
it to a snatch block near the cockpit as my 135 is sheeted to very near the
end of the track. Your sailmaker should be able to give you the trade-offs
between overlap and clew height.
While I can sheet in my Genoa and point to nearly 40 deg, in anything but
very light airs I’ll be going sideways nearly as much as forward. So the
Yanmar is my windward sail, unless I can foot off to about 50-60 deg.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 7:18 AM, quent wrote:
My light air sail is the Westerbeke so I’m not one to offer sail advice.
However, the suggestion of one sailmaker who I consulted was to get a
feathering or folding prop to boost light air performance.
Quent
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Patrick,
I haven’t put any instruments above the companionway. Mine are on the
bridgedeck, which, as Rich pointed out, is a less than ideal location. I
have a repeater (AP Control Head) mounted on the mizzen mast which provide
data to anyone at the helm. Similar to what Tor has on Silverheels, I have
a GPS mounting on the starboard side of the cabin trunk under the dodger.
This is a backup GPS mounting, so it is rarely in use, but I wanted to
provide 12V power to the handheld GPS rather that the internal batteries.
I mounted a power/data receptacle outboard on the cabin trunk, which
finally gets to your question. The hole I drilled through the cabin trunk
at this position comes out behind the electrical panel.So my recommendation for your instruments would be to run the cabling along
the inside of coaming that is used as the base for most dodgers to the
starboard edge of the cabin trunk, and then down through the deck to the
area behind the electrical panel.I’ve attached a pic to the GPS and power/data receptacle
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 6:36 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
I wanted to mount a Maretron display above my companion way and the “pod”
options were so ridiculously expensive and HUGE, that I went without a POD
and mounted the Maretron a board and attached it to the SS dodger pipes.
Hard for me to believe, but I don’t have anything written up on my blog. I
can’t find any pics either.
Wow, I really dropped the ball there.Basically, I used hinged 90 degree T’s to go around the dodger pipes. These
then go to a 9 inch or so piece of vertical SS pipe. On the end of these
vertical pieces, there is an end fitting and then a deck hinge atached to
the wood. this will help with that.
http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1290-bimini-fittingsThe wood is nothing special, but I painted it with an exterior marine grade
white paint.
One year out and its helpd up great.For routing wires, I used a Maretorn bulkhead pass through for my NMEA 2000
wire above the navstation and at the base of the dodger foot. Then I zip
tied the wire to the dodger. For any other wires I’ve had to pass through
the deck or the mast, I’ve used Cable Clams from Blue Sea Marine and I love
them! http://bluesea.com/category/82/productline/overview/1Hope that helps.
-patrick
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W7PEAOn Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 7:24 AM, Dale L wrote:
I am getting ready to move my instruments to a pod above the
companionway.
I am wondering who else has done this and how and where you fed the
cables. At some point I will have to feed them through the deck anddon’t
want to create a misplaced or unnecessary hole.
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Pat,
As you have read it was Quent who modified a standard foam mattress for the
aft cabin. I went the high price route with a custom mattress from HMC in
2002. Best $900 I ever spent, but I might go Quent’s route when this
mattress needs replacement (10 more years?).Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 8:49 AM, wrote:
DITTO – my solution as well, and heat buildup in the memory foam is
minimal. My best sleep is on the boat.~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 7/5/2012 7:26:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:Pat-
We bought a 4″ foam double mattress from a chain bedding store. Opened
the seam and tapered the port side aft and notched the port forward
corner to
fit, then sewed the cover up again.
This wasn’t thick enough so we got a 4″ memory foam topper. Since it was
on top, we didn’t need to modify it.
Cheap and comfortable.
Quent
m2f
Read this topic online here:
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?p=11342#11342
m2f
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That was my experience (what Bob wrote) several years ago. I went through
three of the pumps before going back to one of the standard (constant
speed) pumps. I hoped they had improved as they are definitely quieter and
more efficient than the standard ones. Doesn’t sound like it.
As to the volume, I believe my current pump is 4.3 gpm. That is more than
adequate, but I rarely have more than one of four faucets on at the same
time.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Jun 11, 2012 at 6:40 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I have heard that same comment from several people this winter on my
travels south…. Simple is better.
alan— On Mon, 6/11/12, Robert Fine wrote:
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While on the subject of containers for the frig, here is a pic of a plastic
pitcher I picked up at Costco over this winter.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sailing/Images/Techniques/2012_0607Pitcher0001.jpgI don’t remember the brand or the cost, but since it was Costco it was
sold only in pairs. This was the Jacksonville Costco. It may not be
available at all stores.It has been the frig beverage container I’ve been looking for a long time.
It’s got a gasket seal on the screw down top, so it won’t leak even when
inverted and it holds more than a liter. It is really great for making
sun-tea (as shown in the picture). I just throw in 6-8 tea bags, fill it
with water, close the top and then let it sit on deck for an hour or so.
With the wide mouth it is easy to scoop out the tea bags and put the
pitcher in the frig.
It also has a handle on the top so it is easy to pull out of the bottom of
the frig.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jun 7, 2012 at 10:55 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:Unfortunately that locker is the frig on the 424s with the L-shaped
galley. There is a tall and narrow locker between the frig and the stove,
under the drawers I use for cutlery and cooking utensils. I’ve kept pots
and pans in that locker, but now that I think about it I haven’t used any
of those pans in over a year. It would make an excellent wine locker,
which would free up most of the huge locker behind the starboard settee aft
back rest.
Finding and arranging storage is an endless quest.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jun 7, 2012 at 10:44 AM, wrote:
Quote:John
The storage locker next to the sink is what we use for storing
canned-goods and beverages. The locker is about 18″ deep and has an access
door to is what we call the wine-cellar below. When packing for an
extended trip, we store extra cases of beverages down there. There’s quite
a lot of room down there.Rich
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Unfortunately that locker is the frig on the 424s with the L-shaped
galley. There is a tall and narrow locker between the frig and the stove,
under the drawers I use for cutlery and cooking utensils. I’ve kept pots
and pans in that locker, but now that I think about it I haven’t used any
of those pans in over a year. It would make an excellent wine locker,
which would free up most of the huge locker behind the starboard settee aft
back rest.
Finding and arranging storage is an endless quest.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jun 7, 2012 at 10:44 AM, wrote:
Quote:John
The storage locker next to the sink is what we use for storing
canned-goods and beverages. The locker is about 18″ deep and has an access
door to is what we call the wine-cellar below. When packing for an
extended trip, we store extra cases of beverages down there. There’s quite
a lot of room down there.Rich
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Rich,
I fought the same problems with my frig, which is much smaller than those
on P424s with the U-Shaped galley. My solution was to build custom baskets
that fit the shape of the frig. You can’t really see the baskets in this
picture, http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Frig%20Baskets%201.JPG, but I
can now remove the entire contents of the frig in 4 baskets: the two small
non-custom ones you see at the bottom of the picture, a tall one on which
those baskets are sitting and a long low one that sits under the freezer
compartment. What appears to be a basket at the top of the picture is a
shelf built into the out wall of the frig compartment.I built the baskets and the shelf out of vinyl-covered wire mesh material
intended for making crab pots. The baskets are held together with plastic
wire ties. They’ve worked well for about 9 years.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, Jun 7, 2012 at 9:27 AM, wrote:
The icebox in the 424 is nice because it holds a huge amount of stuff. I
can pack enough food and beverages in there to last a week or more.
Getting stuff out is a different matter. I’ve used plastic storage boxes
with some success, but I haven’t been able to locate boxes that fit
properly. I have engine-driven refrigeration. The evaporator is mounted
under the counter-top. I found one plastic tub that came from a large
cooler that fits perfectly under there, but I’ve had no success in finding
more. Pearson originally fit a sliding shelf in the icebox but I don’t
find it of any use. The whole thing was poorly conceived. I suppose that
the proper thing to do is to pull the countertop and start over. Since I
have refrigeration, this would be a huge job.I was in Walmart yesterday and saw the wire shelf linked below.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Grayline-Large-Helper-Shelf-in-White/16635747At first, it didn’t seem useful but on second thought I came up with a
plan and took one home. I cut off the legs and glued the rubber feet over
the exposed wire ends. This makes a wire-rack that’s a perfect fit for the
shelf in the cooler. Plastic storage boxes can be placed on the shelf two
rows high. Below the shelf I can store beverages. If you do the same
thing, measure the width of the shelf in your fridge first. Mine is 16.25″
wide but no two boats are the same. I carefully cut the legs off with a
hack-saw, leaving as much of the remaining wire as possible. The result is
a wire rack precisely 16.25″ long. I’ll likely buy another and make a
wider shelf.There’s a dam across the bottom of the ice-box. I have no idea why
Pearson did this. I have a hand-pump to drain the bottom of the fridge,
but water collects behind the dam making it difficult to get dry. Its
under the evaporator so condensation collects there. I’ve considered
cutting it out, but it would be a PIA to glass over. A better plan would
be to fill-in the pan and raise the ice-box floor. I’m thinking that a
small piece of styrofoam dock flotation cut to size would work, but I don’t
want to buy a huge and expensive foam block. Has anyone done this? What
did you use for foam?Rich
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Patrick & Dawn,
Yep the reps that compost heads are odorless are bogus. The real issue is
what odors can you live with. Thanks to my early years as a chain smoker
much of my sensitivity has been killed. So far all my friends who have
crewed for me are no more sensitive to odors than I.
My lack of sensitivity to compost odors may be influenced by having to
clear a blockage in the sewage hoses halfway between Bermuda and the
Chesapeake Bay. I can deal with a lot of odor and bugs before regretting
my conversion from flushing to compost.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, May 31, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
Dawn has a very powerful sniffer so things which might not bother you (or
me) she finds overwhelming. She really does smell the flowers. I think
flowers smelling is a myth.Our setup though is still based on the PC Fans inside the head, we have a
bunch of spairs that are lower power and move more air than the one which
the head came with. They are much quieter too, practically silent.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
W7PEAOn Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:53 PM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
Dawn,
what type of ventilation fan to you use with your Nature’s Head? I use a
12v muffin fan with my AirHead that runs 24×7. I do get brown moldduring
the humid months, but it does not produce a odor in the head. My only
problem has been gnats, which is solved by sanitizing the whole system
including vent hose every 6 months while in southern climes. The heatand
humidity here in JAX has gone way up since Beryl came through. There is
mold in the compost bin, but it has not been a problem. I’ve been using
the Airhead since 2008 in Maryland, The Bahamas, N. Carolina and Florida.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:47 PM, Dawn Rodney wrote:
We installed Nature’s Head four years ago and loved it up until the
Mexico
summer has set in with the additional heat and humidity. We have had
major
issues with mold growing in the compost. It stinks up the boat
especially
when the wind blows across the exhaust. Some days it is so hot and
humid
that the solids part of the head drips with condensation. So far we
have
not found a solution to this problem. I have been in contact with
Larry
from Nature’s Head and so far, the only recommendation he has is to add
some diotemaceous earth to the compost, but unfortunately, I can’t findit
in Mexico.
Thanks,
Dawn
s/v Deep PlayaOn Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:37 AM,
wrote:
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If you have the Raritan PHii head, I believe there is a conversion kit to
make it electric – becomes a PHEII I think.On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 3:36 PM, calicojack wrote:
Has anybody installed an electric head. This is the only boat equipment
request my wife has had in 4 years. I’d like to install something that
doesn’t need any modification of the original footprint. Will a house bowl
size fit? I’ve got to get a new auto pilot at some point. I’m gonna install
a new head before I spring the AP $$$$$ cost on her!!
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Patrick,
Like Dan, I have BottomSiders for cushions in the cockpit. They are a
great improvement over the vinyl covered, closed cell foam cushions that
came with the boat. The cockpit benches are too narrow for me or any one
who crews for me to sleep comfortably. I view that as a good thing. The
main ergonomic problem I have with the cockpit is the height of the
coamings. I get very little back support as the top of the coaming comes
about my mid back. They are also nearly vertical, which is not that
comfortable. My solution are the bench seat cushions sold at the Boat
Shows. They have racheted back that provides support full back support at
several angles. These are not the cheap ones WM sells, but I don’t
remember the make. I had two of them in the cockpit 24×7 for 15 years
before I replaced them in the last 2 years. The cushions were still fine,
but the ratchets had broken.As far as the cabin cushions go, I replaced mine with new foam and covers
about 8 years ago. I went with 5″ foam, which still leaves another inch
below the back rests. I wish I had gone with 6″ foam as Rich did. I also
wish I had gone with a slightly firmer foam. I sit mostly on the starboard
side and that cushion gets most of the wear and tear. Fortunately the
cushions are symmetrical and are covered by an Ultra-Suede-like product on
the tops and bottoms. Every month or so I switch them.I agree the settees are not deep enough for comfortable lounging, but I am
normally sitting on a settee only when working on the computer or eating
they and they are OK for that use.
If and when I replace these cushions I will go with firmer 6″ latex foam
and have the inside edge of the cushion raised with bunting or extra foam.
That will provide additional support for the thighs when lounging. I would
also add another knotch to allow the settee to be fixed inboard 1 or 2
inches for some extra depth. I would slide them to the normal outboard
position when sitting at the table.When using the settees for berths (only when I have crew), I put down one
of those mattress toppers sold at Walmart. People who have crewed for me
find them very comfortable. At these times the settees bunk boards are
pulled fully in board, which still leaves enough room for people pass
between the port settee and the table to get to the forward cabin. The
only problem with the mattress toppers is what to do with them when the
settees are not being used for berths. I stuff mine in those Space Bags
and compress them with the vacuum cleaner and store them on top of the
forward water tank.So I agree, Pearson did a poor job of ergonomically designing the settees
and the cockpit benches, but there are workarounds I can live with.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, May 23, 2012 at 9:04 AM, Paul Lefebvre wrote:
Quote:RichLots of memory foam suppliers out there. One is ikea that has several
thicknesses, including a 5 1/2″ king size for $300.http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30139835/#/80139828
Ikea also carries latex mattresses if you want to go that route.
Paul
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My experience with Cetol is very similar to Rich’s – when I kept the boat
in the Mid–Atlantic region. When I took the boat further south the Cetol
darkened immediately and started to peel. It’s taken six years of neglect,
but the Cetol is almost gone from my Teak. From here on out it will just
be cleaned periodically.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, May 14, 2012 at 11:50 AM, wrote:
Quote:Dan,
No, I just the normal stuff. It looks great for a year, then darkens. It
will build up a bit with each coat until it starts to peal. Then I have to
strip it off and start over. I find it easy to strip with a heat-gun and
scraper. I then follow with a teak cleaner and a light sanding. After
over 30 years of sanding, the wood has gotten thin in some areas exposing
crew heads. These can be sunk a bit deeper but its a lot of work. We had
good weather this spring so we stripped and refinished all the exterior
brightwork. It looks nice. If I ever get another boat though it would
have little or no exterior woodwork.Rich
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