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“My only real problem is getting the Manson monster to come back up over the
roller. Anyone solved that problem?”In a word – No. Since I have a manual windlass (keeps me young, but
crippled) I am at the bow when the anchor arrives at the roller, and I just
lift it up until the shank is on the roller and then pull back hard. It
helps that I left the bow fitting for the Passerelle in place. I can stand
with one foot on this fitting and lift the anchor straight up.On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 8:24 PM, quent <> wrote:
Hi Rich-
Of course, you’re right. A proper application of Ohm’s Law.
However, if the windlass battery is not highly charged, or the windlass is
heavily loaded, two things will happen. The voltage at the windlass battery
will drop, and as the windlass slows and approaches stalling it’s resistance
will drop. Current through the #10 wire will increase, and the wire or
combiner will fail before the thermal breaker, at least in theory.
Frankly, if I were going for the windlass battery arrangement, I like Tor’s
approach of using #6 wire.
I think there is a lot of merit in keeping things simple as others have
suggested. On our boat, we compromised by using a smaller and cheaper
windlass. It lifts 60# anchor on 5/16″ chain faster than a 64 year old with
a manual windlass and is happy with relatively light power cable.
My only real problem is getting the Manson monster to come back up over the
roller. Anyone solved that problem?
Quent_______________________________________________
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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no, clearly this is a training pole for his significant other’s dancing
career. 🙂On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 7:31 PM, Paul Lefebvre <>wrote:
Quote:I think it is a grab pole for moving about the boat offshore.Paul
Quote:To:
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
herb,
Replacing the running backstay lines is a minor cost (easy for me to say).
Maybe I need to see that pic, but you only want wire from the mizzen mast
head to the backstay blocks. Actually if I were to replace that wire today
it would be with low stretch rope. I did replace the original blocks and
rope in the first year I owned Sarah. Pics at:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Running_Rigging_-_Mizzen_MastOn Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 8:05 PM, Herbc wrote:
sorry could not get pic to post, but i did get a bunch of warnings
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Sounds like my V-Drive only a little smoother.
On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 7:12 PM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:Here’s a better recording. The recorder is sitting on the aft berth…..— On Sun, 9/26/10, Robert Fine <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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Alan,
I went through this issue with the Yanmar repower in 2008 and the RV-26
install this year. My Westerbecke 60 idled at around 1100 RPM. The Yanmar
idles at 800 RPM. I got the same low RPM rumble with the Yanmar and the old
RV-20. The yard checked with Yanmar and Walters. Walters said it was no
problem. When I had the RV-26 installed the rumble was even louder. Again
we went back to Walters and they said it is normal at low RPM and does not
cause a problem for the V-Drive. I asked about increasing the idle to 1100
as on the W60, but was told the Velvet Drive needs the lower idle. The old
Paragon was happy with the W60 idle at 1100.
I will keep questioning this situation and why I can’t get the idle up
enough to eliminate the rumble, but for now I will live with it and just
advance the throttle after shifting into gear.On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 6:08 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:My v-drive also runs more quietly at higher RPMs. This might be a question
better asked of Walter though.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 2:58 PM, Alan <> wrote:
I had the engine out to repair the bent strut. While is was out I
replaced
the oil pan gaskets and the vibration damper on the flywheel. One of the
springs was so rusted it was lying in the bottom of the bell housing.That
would explain the “clunking” sound at low RPM.
I had the V Drive rebuilt by Walters in the mean time. The boat is backin
the water and everything appears to be align according to specs. When in
gear at 800 RPM (forward or reverse) the V Drive sounds like a machine
gun……(the Cluncking sound is gone) After about 1000 RPM the soundgoes
away and is very quiet.
Question: I am used to the clunking and whir of a worn unit…. is this
what a new or rebuilt unit sounds like…..?
ALAN_______________________________________________
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Dan,
Sounds like a good plan. That’s similar to what Jack & Patricia Tyler have
been using on their Pacific cruise on Whoosh (currently in Tonga preparing
to depart for New Caledonia). The only differences are they use a manual SL
Seatiger windlass and have gone from the CQR to a Manson Supreme 60.
I used 50′ of 3.8″ chain and 400′ of 3/4″ rope on a 44# Bruce for several
years (including a summer in the deep anchorages of the Western Med), but
have converted to similar to Whoosh, except I have a Lofrans Royal manual
windlass. So the only suggestion from our experience would a slightly
heavier anchor. However most of the early SoPac cruisers used similar CQRs
so no real reason to change.On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 7:36 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
Thanks all for your input on anchor windlasses. After much review, I
presently am considering the following:-300′ of 5/16″ HT Chain on the CQR 45 (as primary)
-250′ of 3/4″ 8 plait line with 50′ of 5/16″ HT on the Fortress 37
(secondary)
-Maxwell HRC 10/10 horizontal Windless (new product with warp and
gypsy that fits several sizes of line/chain)Future sailing to include Hawai’i (deep anchorages) and Polynesia. I am
soliciting your comments. What am I missing?Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Pat,
Sounds great, meet you on the roof like last year. I will be driving up
from Solomons.On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 9:27 AM, dave jones <> wrote:
Quote:John et al,We will be back at the show again this year. Would love to catch up with
other owners like last year. Maybe late thursday afternoon?Dave and Pat
Doris E. #178John Stevenson wrote:
Quote:I won’t be able to leave the Patuxent for a couple of weeks. I might stop
in Deltaville (Piankatank River side) on the way south in October.On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 8:22 AM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:I am heading down to Deltaville this morning to start re-assembling
UNABATED. I’ll probably be down there at least a week.
Am I any where near you…. close enough for a beer?
alan— On Sun, 9/19/10, John Stevenson <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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I won’t be able to leave the Patuxent for a couple of weeks. I might stop
in Deltaville (Piankatank River side) on the way south in October.On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 8:22 AM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:I am heading down to Deltaville this morning to start re-assembling
UNABATED. I’ll probably be down there at least a week.
Am I any where near you…. close enough for a beer?
alan— On Sun, 9/19/10, John Stevenson <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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John,
Whereabouts on the Chesapeake are you? I’m on the Patuxent RiverOn Sat, Sep 18, 2010 at 4:28 PM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Hey John,Yes, Silver Heels and I are in Panama. These are for a friend of mine who
will be sailing south via Bermuda in November.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
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Jim,
Around the same price for the Lewmar 60s at WM and Defender. I much prefer
the operation of the Lewmars to the old Bomars. The Lewmars can be dogged
very quickly and mine have never leaked. Bomar does make hatches with
extruded aluminum frames similar to the Lewmars. I would have purchased
those in 2001 except they were not a drop-in replacement for the old Bomar
hatches at that time.On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 12:58 PM, James Roberts <>wrote:
My hatches are Bomar and cost about $900 to replace. Is the Ocean 60 less?
I haven’t replaced the bad one yet? Jim_______________________________________________
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Adam,
I replaced the original large Bomars (fwd cabin, over table on ketch) with
Lewmar Ocean 60s with the spigot in 2001 and they have stood up well. The
plexiglas (or Lexan?) has crazed a bit from the sun, frost and general
abuse, but no leaks and no problem with the hinges. I have Sunbrella Shade
awnings for those hatches now. Wish I had made them 9 years ago.The hatches are near drop-ins. The screw holes for the deck don’t line up
perfectly so you’ll have to fill some of them with Marine Tex or similar. I
did have to do a little sanding of the internal wood frames as the radius of
curvature of the corners are not exactly identical. The spigot on the
Lewmar hatches are the same as that on the Bomars so I did not have to do
any modifications to the wood trim pieces.I believe the medium size hatch over the galley can be replaced with the
Ocean 40 if you want one look for your hatches. I think that is the size I
used for that hatch.Of course that was 2001 so be sure to double check the current dimensions of
those Ocean hatches.On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 9:19 PM, Adam Silverstein wrote:
Ocean size 60? How do you like them?
Adam Silverstein
s/v Phantom Corsair_______________________________________________
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It appears this product is still struggling to come to the market. I saw a
promise that it would be available on eBay in May, but I can’t find it. I
wouldn’t hold your breath.On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 10:51 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
http://www.golden-shellback.com
On 8/27/2010 8:45 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
This sounds way too good to be true. Can I have some?
On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 10:07 AM, Lee Yonkers<>
wrote:This is good news – maybe
MARITIME EXECUTIVE NEWSLETTER for August 07, 2008
New Coating Technology Repels Water From All Consumer Electronics Golden
Shellback is a unique coating that protects material against damage
caused
by exposure to water. The technology was developed by Northeast Maritime
Institute, a private maritime education and training Institute located in
Fairhaven Massachusetts. The Institute’s creed is “Honor The Mariner”.In maritime circles there has been a battle raging for at least one
thousand
years; water vs equipment. This dilemma was magnified when electrical
components where first brought aboard ship requiring electricity to live
in
close quarters with its natural enemy; water. To date the solution to
this
problem has been the use of barriers to keep water away from components.From hard cases with synthetic gaskets to plastic amour found in
electric
cable, protecting a device from the conductive and corrosive properties
of
water has always been done external to the core components.Sid Martin, Director of Technology at Northeast Maritime Institute,
approached the problem from a different perspective. Listening to working
mariners training at the Institute’s facilities, Martin knew that
protecting
devices from marine environments needed to be done without adding size or
complexity to the device. With knowledge gained in the semi-conductor,
aerospace and maritime industries Martin set out to protect every surface
of
a device; at the molecular level.The results are impressive. During the testing process Northeast Maritime
Institute has submerged an IPOD Touch, Blackberry Pearl, numerous VHF
radios
and other equipment without noticeable damage. One such device operated
continuously while immersed in water for over 450 hours prior to failure.“When Sid dropped his blackberry into the bucket of water my jaw dropped
with it. I could hardly believe the result.” -Captain John Konrad,
gCaptain
BlogProviding a uniform, near hermetic coating Golden Shellback protects
electronics exposed to water and resists both rain and humidity allowing
them to continue working during and after direct exposure. The coating
also
has the ability to repel oil, synthetic fluid, hazardous material, sand,
dust, and water-based substances. No one is more excited by this
development than Eric Dawicki, President of Northeast Maritime Institute.
Having served in the Coast Guard and aboard large merchant ships Dawicki
is
confident this technology will not only help keep consumer electronics
out
of landfills but when offered to mariners, rescue teams and first
responders
it will save lives.Additional uses for the technology are still being explored but the
Institute has already responded to requests from medical device
manufacturers, rescue professionals and consumers located around the
world.
Golden Shellback coating is currently available to companies for
application
during the manufacturing process. Consumers can expect to get their
existing
devices shellbacked in the coming months.Copyright 2007 The Maritime Executive
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Here is pic of the strut mount from the engine bay. Taken during the
repower.http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/20080111%20Engine%20bed%20destruction%203.JPG
On Thu, Aug 26, 2010 at 1:49 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Yes we want the pictures. 😉
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 26, 2010 at 4:46 AM, Alan <> wrote:
I have pictures of the area where the strut is attached to the hull if
anyone is interested. I would have to say that it is pretty substantial
design. The area is actually molded into the hull. After the strut isbolted
to the hull ( sealed with silicone) there appears to be about 3/4″ of
solid
resin there. The last 3/8 – 1/2″ is built up with what looks like fairing
compound. Because it’sb not faired out too far (pretty much a squarerecess)
Quote:is why there appears to be a constant crack around the area.
The strut went to a place in Baltimore called Miller Island to be
straightened. The strut is a LARGE HEAVY casting.
AlanAlan
— On Wed, 8/25/10, Linus Martinez <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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Pat,
Just like you don’t want to be forced to repower, you don’t want to be
forced to re-rig. You might be able to sail with the original rig, but you
might not. I chose to not replace the rigging before and during my cruise
to Europe and back. I had the rig surveyed before each trans-atlantic
trip. The riggers could find no problems, but both strongly recommended i
replace the standing rigging. I ignored their advice and got away with it.
When i returned to the states I was anchored out with friends when the
discussion of rigging came up and i mentioned that my rigging was the
original 30 year old. So we walked around the deck and found this:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Shroud%201.JPG
Several strands of the lower shround had broken at the swage fitting. This
probably happened while we were sailing back to the states, but I never
noticed it.
I’d always rather be lucky than good, but I don’t want to count on being
lucky. 30 years is a lot of time for rigging and things can go bad
quickly. Sarah spent most of her life on the Chesapeake which is not as
salty as the ocean and the climate is moderate, so i don’t believe you are
that far ahead by being in fresh water.
The question is, “Do you feel lucky?”On Thu, Aug 26, 2010 at 5:41 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I’ve been to a lot of rigger talks and they all talk about a 10-15 year
life
of stainless steel rigging. 10 in So California and 15 in the Pac NW (rain
and low UV is good).Do you have $4500 dollars you can afford to spend?
Will it make you sleep better at night (or sea)?That’s how I’d think about it.
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 26, 2010 at 2:36 PM, pat noordsij <> wrote:
Alan and other fresh water sailors who went to salt,
Did you replace your standing rigging before going? Doe’s standing
rigging
looks great but it’s 29 yrs old. Fresh water is very kind to a boat. We
are worried that the moment it sees salt it will all die but then I don’t
want to switch it out – if it really isn’t necessary. There are other
things I could spend money on.Opinions? ( I know there is no shortage of these out there)
thanks
– pat
SV Doris E, p424 #178_______________________________________________
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Rich,
If you can specify delivery to a commercial dock then 1st Chain
Supply
will ship chain free. There may be other fees, but if you can take delivery
at your office this might eliminate the shipping cost.On Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 10:03 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Quent
Nothing on ebay right now in the size I need, but it’s a good thought. I
have about 6 months to look for it.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
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