Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Patrick,
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/20080109%20Old%20tank%201.JPG
This is a picture of the original tank on Sarah. As you can see it is not
even on the bottom. The front of the tank is on the left in the picture.On Tue, Aug 24, 2010 at 9:34 PM, Patrick_Seattle <>wrote:
I’m replying to this old thread where I figured out my fuel tank gauge
didn’t work. https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?t=832I pulled it out today. I love having the right tool and I did not. I had to
borrow a longer screwdriver so now I know need to buy one of those!Anyway, the unit is of the kind with the arm that floats off to one side.
The initial tube is 12″ long with a fulcrum and the float arm is 11-1/4″
long. The dial says Rochester Gauges http://www.rochestergauges.com/ Dial
No. 5-601 (not listed there shocking).The tank is 24″ deep at the point of the gauge. Can anyone validate my
assumption that the tank is indeed just a rectangular box and even on the
bottom? Just wanted to double check because that will affect the sender I
buy as they come in lengths.You know me, I’ll have pics of all this later.
Thanks a lot!
-p
Deep Playa, #152 http://www.DeepPlaya.com_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Quent,
I made a voltage regulator from Radio Shack parts (<$5) back in the 80s.
I’m not an electronics expert, so I used a circuit design in the 12V
Doctor’s Project Book. I doubt that book is still in print, but you might
be able to find it on eBay. That is the one of his books I do not have
onboard. I must have loaned it to a “friend”. I checked on Amazon.com and
they do not have it.
The voltage regulator I built will do what you asked for, but it may not do
everything you need. That is it will maintain 12v output as long as the
input voltage is 12v or higher. When the input voltage drops below 12v so
does the output. You might contact Lind Electronics to see if they have
some thing that will work for you. They primarily make DC power adapters
for laptops (e.g., 12v to 18v), but they might have something that just does
12v-12v.
There is always the option of running it off an inverter.On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 10:39 AM, quent <> wrote:
Folks, this is a request for help from the electronics experts in the
group.
I just found at HH Greg some combination 13″ ED TV/ DVD players with all
the bells and whistles like PC input for $100. The power supply is a
converter that provides 12v DC @ 3 amps. I’d like to power them off the
boat batteries, but I’m a little worried that the charging voltage (14.4v)
might be too high. Manufacturer (Curtis) was not helpful.
Can someone tell me where to get or how to make a device that will limit DC
power to 12 volts?
Thanks!
Quent_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
james,
will these fit?
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|344|295761|320704|70054&id=128725On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 10:22 AM, James Roberts <>wrote:
I have several Datamarine instruments that need covers-4″ I think. If
anyone has some or knows where to get them please let me know. Jim Roberts
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
When I was on the delivery of the 54′ Betram last month, we found oil in the
coolant when stopped for a 50 hour service on a rebuilt engine. The Detroit
Diesel solution to flush system was Calgon. This emulsified the oil and
dissolved deposits in the system. Of course this was an 850 HP V-12 not a
54 HP 4 cylinder engine.
Still this might be the cheaper alternative to Salt Away.John,
Was Indulgence the 424 I saw on a mooring in Belfast a few weeks ago?
That is a long trip to Cape Code from Maine. On that Bertram we made it in
about 12 hours, but that was throttled back to 13 kts to save the owner a
little on fuel costs.On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 10:53 PM, John Sommer <> wrote:
Hello,
I too have noticed that my engine is running hotter as I head south…I
worked through the system and noticed that my heat exchanger had some sea
grass and a build up of scale. I’ll try the West Marine stuff and see how
that works.I recall a similar conversation some time back and someone recommended
boiling the heat exchanger in muric acid. If adding this West Marine stuff
this is an easier solution, then it beats having to remove the exchanger
(and drain all the coolant). After cleaning out the gunk…things seam to
be better. We have long motor sail to the Cape Cod canal tomorrow…that
will be the test. I will have to remove the scale at some point, as I am
heading towards warmer waters and I’ll need a more efficient heat exchanger.Thanks for the tips.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
Unfortunately to shorten the jack shaft the tube must be shortened not the
insert. I don’t remember the reason we didn’t modify the tube, but I
believe that was not practical or wouldn’t have saved enough to make it the
preferred approach. If I could have avoided purchasing a new shaft I
certainly would have done so, and the yard would have made more money
selling me machine shop services rather than a new shaft (I was on the
Bertram delivery and didn’t have the option of shopping the work out
myself).
Alan,
Good luck with your installation. No two Pearson’s are exactly alike (e.g.,
the W60 vrs the W58) so the old jack shaft may still work for you. For your
sake I hope the advice I got from my installer was incorrect and you can
modify the shaft if it does not fit.On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 11:28 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
The jackshaft is variable length for just that reason – the two bolts on
the
clamp are for moving the solid portion into the hollow one. If you needed
a
longer one, that could be a problem, but a machine shop could make a new
insert, I’m sure for a couple hundred.Bob
On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 10:43 AM, John Stevenson
<>wrote:Alan,
I just replaced my 20 with a 26, and Paul is correct there was no changein
the ratio. The yard did re-pitch my Maxprop because they believe it was
pitched too high. The one gotcha was the jack shaft. The 26 requires a
jack shaft that is 7/8″ shorter than that of the 20. For me that meant a
new jack shaft. I think Rich did the v-drive at the same time he
re-powered
and positioned his new engine such that he could re-use the 20 jackshaft.
Walter thinks very highly of their jack shafts. I think mine coast
$1,700.
On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 10:29 AM, Paul Lefebvre
<>wrote:Hi Alan:
I am sure Rich will comment, but here is the link to his discussion
about
going from the RV-20 to the RV-26.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Vdrive.html
Based on his discussion about propeller selection, I got the impression
you
can order any gear ratio you want from Walter.
Paul
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan,
I just replaced my 20 with a 26, and Paul is correct there was no change in
the ratio. The yard did re-pitch my Maxprop because they believe it was
pitched too high. The one gotcha was the jack shaft. The 26 requires a
jack shaft that is 7/8″ shorter than that of the 20. For me that meant a
new jack shaft. I think Rich did the v-drive at the same time he re-powered
and positioned his new engine such that he could re-use the 20 jack shaft.
Walter thinks very highly of their jack shafts. I think mine coast $1,700.On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 10:29 AM, Paul Lefebvre
<>wrote:Hi Alan:
I am sure Rich will comment, but here is the link to his discussion about
going from the RV-20 to the RV-26.http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Vdrive.html
Based on his discussion about propeller selection, I got the impression you
can order any gear ratio you want from Walter.Paul
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The light (on my panel) is wired to the shore power and presumably should
come one whenever the shore power is connected. There is a small stalk at
the base of the light (behind the panel), but I find it hard to believe that
in the late 1970s they could have miniaturized sophisticated electrical
circuits in that space. So I assume it was just a light to indicate that AC
power (generator/inverter/shore) was available and after 30 years it only
comes on intermittently.On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 9:01 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:Looks to me like someone added a lamp for some reason. Maybe inverter on?
RichQuote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick,
Can’t say what this light indicates, but yours must have gotten a little
more sun light than mine over the years. The plastic cover should be green,
at least it is on my panel.
Mine comes on and blinks as your describe on occasion. This happens most
often when the genset is running, although not always. The fixture is
connected across the neutral and hot AC leads at the back of the AC
Voltmeter, so it may flash when the shore power voltage is not within some
limit. However I’ve never noticed a meaningful correlation there.
Marinetics is long gone, although I think there is a small outfit (someone’s
garage?) in So Ca that does some sort of the electrical fabrication.
I did not find a description of the Marinetics panel in the my (also long
gone) owners manual. Just a very generalized schematic that did not include
the meters.
My advice: Enjoy the party and forget about the light.On Fri, Aug 13, 2010 at 11:37 PM, Patrick wrote:
Ok too lazy to look this up. Just got to Anacortes, WA for the Lats N Atts
party, hooked up to the shore power and we’ve got blinky orange with zero
load only the ac main is on. Polarity check is fine.Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thatcher,
Mine is located in the forward end of the locker outboard of the stove. I
have the L-shaped galley so my stove is further forward than those with the
U-shaped galley. I would guess it is directly above your stove locations.On Thu, Jul 22, 2010 at 12:06 PM, Thatcher A. Stone, Esquire – Confidential
Attorney Communication <> wrote:Hi everyone. My boat was delivered new in 1982 with an installed propane
system. The propane jugs are outside in a locker, with an electric solenoid
to open the line. There’s also a regulator and a selector (two tanks).There’s a second solenoid nearer to the stove. The idea is if something
goes
wrong at the stove, one can turn a switch at the stove and turn off the gas
flow closer than the rear locker.Does anyone know where that second solenoid is mounted, before I waste a
lot
of time looking?Thanks.
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Dan,
I used Tor’s rope caulk solution when I installed track on the cabin trunk
for my staysail. After a year no leaks and it was much easier to use than
the tube stuff.http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewSolentStayFinish.html#Installing_Sheet_Track
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 9:22 AM, Joseph Steiner <> wrote:
Quote:Hey Tor,I am curious to know why you don’t like silicone? I have used it on my
stanchion
bases successfully. Easy to use and easy to buy.regards,
Joe,________________________________
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I assume he meant Hal Sutphen. The solution was to use weather stripping to
seal the sides of the hatch. It has worked for me for 8 years, but just
before I left the boat 3 weeks agoI noticed the hatch was leaking again.
Time re-bed and replace the stripping.On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 7:34 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Who is the famous dead owner?
-I –
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Barbara,
I think the company you are thinking of is the Indiantown Marina.
Good references on the water way can be found at:
http://www.saj.usace.army.mil/Divisions/Operations/Branches/SFOO/
and
http://cruisersnet.net/
and of course the Waterway Guide.I’m currently crewing on a 54′ Bertram that we are delivering from Orange
Beach, AL to Camden, ME. Hoping to depart on Thursday before this part of
the coast gets closed down completely. We did a sea test on the Bertram on
Sunday. Turns out that was illegal. The bays inside Perdida Pass were
closed to recreational traffic (open today). The Marine Police almost
didn’t let us take the boat back to the Marina. I don’t believe there are
any significant effects on the Florida coast. As a matter of fact the
Florida tourist office is flooding the local airways with advertisements to
come to the clean beaches and fishing grounds in Florida.We plan to use the Okeechobee Waterway going the other way. Latest report
is minimum depth of a little under 14′.On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 8:46 AM, svtopaz <> wrote:
Hi Guys….it is Barbara here.
I am on my way south and am in St. Augustine at the moment. Going to stay
for the 4th and perhaps a little longer. I had planned on going over to the
Ft Myers area, so my question is…….Has anyone gone through Lake Okeechobee?? If so could you give me any info
on getting through. I have heard people use a company to get under the
bridge using water to tip the vessel to get under it.I am still a bit concerned about the oil spill……I may just stay on the
east coast.~B
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pete,
Here is a link to the writeup Jack Tyler did on his Spectra installation.http://www.svsarah.com/Whoosh/WhooshPacificPrepWaterMaker.html
On Sat, Jun 19, 2010 at 10:41 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
Quote:Yup. With the scuba compressor and the 200amp alternator, not room for
much else on the Kubota. Also like the idea of running off of wind and
solar.Pete
On 6/19/2010 8:11 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Ah Pete you cheated and went commercial….. Dont know about anything
else but my membranes fit very nicely up under the aft lazerate.
alan— On Sat, 6/19/10, Pete Dubler<> wrote:
<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pat,
I’m more interested in what you replaced it withJohn
On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 7:31 PM, pat noordsij <> wrote:
we have one aft berth light fixture. yours for the cost of shipping.
http://drop.io/pearson424/asset/dsc-0046sm-jpg
Let me know if you want it.
– pat
SV Doris E, p424 #178_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rodd,
I use the Alfa model AWUS036H. It connects to two USB 2.0 ports via a
provided cable (or a single power USB port). The antenna on the adapter
un-screws and a cable to a remote antenna then can be screwed into place.
This is a standard connector so you can just buy the Alfa and add an
external antenna, if needed, at a later time from a different supplier. As
I said I never use the external directional antenna. If the signal is so
far away that the external antenna is required, with the boat tied to a
floating dock it is still moving too much. I think it is best used ashore.
The antenna and heavy coax cable were purchased from an Alfa retailer and
are not made by Alfa.Alfa website: http://www.alfa.com.tw/in/front/bin/home.phtml
I purchased my adapter several years ago so there are probably later and
greater models. Again this is probably one of the least expensive and
easiest to install upgrades from a built-in WIFI. If you plan to go
cruising and will be spending time in the large anchorages such as you will
find in the Caribbean then more advanced installations such as Partick, Tor
and Alan use might be the way to go.BTW, in my experience one of the significant problems with using public WIFI
networks such as are found in marinas and harbors is not the
antenna/adapter, but Skype. You get 4 or 5 people calling on Skype and
suddenly there is no bandwidth for anyone else. I think that a lot of times
when people are having trouble connecting or staying connected to these
public WIFIs the problem is the volume of Skype calls.On Mon, May 31, 2010 at 8:02 AM, Rodd Leeds <> wrote:
Thanks Patrick and John! This info is great.
My use is to connect a single laptop to the Wifi antenna, mainly to get
stronger signal in my marina. I will not be using a router. Does the Alfa
connect directly to a usb port or to the network card? Or do you have a
choice?Again, how does the Ubiquiti Bullet connect to a laptop? does it need to
go to a router?How does the optional antenna connect to the alfa? via coax? if so, this
would be the lossy area of the setup, I assume.Rodd Leeds
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
