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Rod,
Not knowing what you are using to connect to WIFI, makes it difficult to
recommend something better. Patrick’s recommendation for a POE system is
probably the most efficient system, but not a little costly, complicated and
and with a somewhat involved implementation. A simple solution might just
be higher powered USB adapter. I’ve used the Alfa adapter with good success
in marginal conditions (e.g., anchored in the Bahamas). It has a long
enough USB cable to be put on the top of the coach roof while working the
computer at the dining table or the nav desk and pull in signals a mile or
more away. I also purchased a directional antenna that connects to the
Alfa, but I only used it a couple of times as it is too directional for use
when at anchor. While in Marsh Harbor, winter before last, several cruisers
complained that they couldn’t stay connected to the local WIFI service, one
of whom said they had a POE system. Durng this same time I was having no
problems staying connected with the Alfa.
If you are an IT professional like Patrick, the POE system is probably the
way to go. If you want something you can purchase and install immediately
then something like the Alfa might be the way to go.
One of the drawbacks to the Alfa is it requires two standard USB ports on
your computer (to get enough power)). If you have a newer computer with a
powered USB port you can get by with just that port. Also the antenna must
be brought into the cabin during inclement weather. I’m sure Patrick’s
solution is all-weather.On Sun, May 30, 2010 at 8:39 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:There are a number of ways you can go. What I’m doing is as follows:
Ubiquiti Bullet 2 WiFi Bridge ($85) connected to a a Digital Antenna wifi
antenna ($90) mounted on the mizzen mast.
There is an ethernet cable (use direct burial cable) that runs up inside
the
mast to the radio which mounts to the antenna. This cables powers and
handles the data traffic.
This connects to a Linksys WRT54G wireless access point and is my boats
wireless network, the Ubiquiti bridge is the “internet uplink” at home this
would be your DSL or cable modem.It’s still laying in the yard (almost done) but I ran it at the dock and it
worked great.You could mount it deck level or hoist it set it up temporarily as well.
Pics and details to be posted on my site when the rig is back up.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, May 30, 2010 at 5:29 PM, Rodd Leeds <> wrote:
Trying to increase my range and reception for wifi. I am barely able to
get my cable company’s wifi signal at the dock (connecting at 11Mbps).It
was good enough to log on the web and to connect to my slingbox and watch
tv
on the computer.
Can anyone recommend an antenna or a system that would increase my range
and improve signal strength. Also, what type of an antenna is best and
where should it be mounted for maximum reception? Do these systemsconnect
directly to the laptop’s network card, or do they need to connect to a
router or Access Point?Thanks guys! The season is upon us here in the North East!!
Rodd Leeds
“Windseeker”
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John Stevenson
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From previous discussions on this subject I think most of us agree that the
most important component of the refrigeration system is the box itself. The
type of compressor is secondary. If you have a box like friends have on
their custom-built boat – the compressor comes on every two days in the
tropics to maintain the freezer at 0F – it really doesn’t matter what type
of compressor is driving the system. However most of us are living with a
box somewhere between mine (original Pearson) or one to which additional
insulation has been added. In my case I have to run either my engine drive
or AC (via the shore power or generator) compressor twice a day. I think
those who have upgraded their boxes can probably get by with once a day. My
system works fine dockside or on a passage, but sucks when anchored for an
extended period. Running the engine or generator twice a day keeps me from
spending extended time ashore unless I put into a marina. Also both of my
compressors are water cooled, which means for haulouts I have to shut down
the refrigeration. I blame my over weight condition on those “eat the
contents of the frig” days before a haulout :).
One other lesson I’ve learned – if you want to modify the box, do it before
you move onboard. Once you have set up residence on the boat, changing
anything in the galley becomes a major life style impact item.This coming winter I plan to move off the boat for a month or two and try to
do some upgrades to the frig and a few other items. Making major changes to
the box may not be on the project list. I have the original L-Galley
configuration with the box outboard of the sink and about 1/2 the size of
the box in the U-Galleys. So adding insulation to the inside of the box
will cut down on the volume significantly. Of course a smaller box might
solve my overweight issues, but I’m too old to make those kind of life-style
changes.So my frig upgrade may be adding an air-cooled 12v compressor (I’ve worked
out a solution with SeaFrost) and a wind generator. I don’t think I can add
sufficient solar panels to a 424 Ketch to get enough energy to maintain my
freezer at 25F and still not still have to run the engine or generator twice
a day. A wind generator on the mizzen mast might allow me to get it down to
once a day or maybe skip a day on occasion.On Mon, May 24, 2010 at 4:15 PM, wrote:
Quote:Lets say that your alternator can put out 150A. One might think that you
could put 150AH into your battery by running your engine for one hour. It
doesn’t work that way. Your batteries won’t accept a charge at that rate.
Even with the best smart regulator and a huge alternator you’ll be lucky to
get an average of 50AH into your battery bank assuming that your bank is a
typical size. So what can you do with that extra 100A that your alternator
could provide that’s not going into your batteries? Run a 115v compressor
through your inverter of course! That’s not going to take all of that extra
alternator capacity but it will use some of it. I have an engine-driven
system so that extra alternator capacity doesn’t go anywhere unless I run
the microwave.I would think that a 115v holding-plate system would have the best of both
worlds. I’ve never had the opportunity to compare it with my system but on
paper it should work. It might take more running time than an engine-driven
system but would eliminate the rubber hoses and engine-mounted compressor
which are maintenance items. It could also work off a generator or shore
power.My engine-driven system still consumes about 15A DC when running. This is
what the water pump and clutch consume. I’d like to replace the water pump
with something smaller. The original pump died many years ago and I replaced
it with a big washdown pump. That’s all I could find.Regards
Rich
Original Message
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My installer also doubted whether the exhaust hose could be bent to the
extent needed. Fortunately Rich had done his re-power a year or so earlier
and published pictures. Once my installer saw that it could be done with
heavy duty hose he went that way. Turned out it was not difficult at all.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/20080207%20Engine%20Install%205.JPGOn Mon, May 24, 2010 at 8:51 AM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Rich.That would be an impossible bend on my Yanmar 4JH4E, especially with the
very heavy-duty hose the mechanic used. There simply isn’t enough room
beneath the manifold. Check out what he did instead (attached photos).
Pretty clever and nicely executed.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
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Bill,
Here is link to the W60 electrical diagram I scanned 10 years ago. Hope it
helps: http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/Engine%20Wire%20Med.JPGOn Sun, May 23, 2010 at 6:17 PM, Bill Emberley <>wrote:
Quote:HELP!
Anyone have a photo or diagram of the connections to the starter solenoid
on a Westerbeke 60? Not 100% sure that I have it correct.
THANKS!
Bill________________________________
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Adam,
What beige? My topsides are white, or at least they were the last time I
washed them.
Are you asking about the mustard-colored bulkheads in the cabin? There I
wouldn’t try for a match.On Tue, May 18, 2010 at 8:23 AM, adam silverstein wrote:
Is that awful beige similar to interlux 1990 hatteras white? What matches
well?Adam Silverstein, iPhone
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Just to clarify things here is a picture of my traveler car with the fix
performed in 2005:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sailing/AtlanticCircle/Images/Traveller%20Repair%202.JPGOn Sun, May 16, 2010 at 4:08 PM, dave jones <> wrote:
James,
Our 1982 (#178) also used Nicro-Fico traveler. Rig-Rite, if you can get a
hold of them, stocks parts.Dave & Pat
Doris E.James Roberts wrote:
I just returned from 19 months sailing from Trinidad to Australia on a
friends Oyster 485 and six months sailing on my 424(Revery) in the
Caribbean. Can anyone tell me what make traveller was used on 1983 424’s? I
have a crack in the pin that holds the shackle to the piece that connects to
the traveller car. This was picked up on a recent survey. On the same survey
the steel mast step had a lot of corrosion and must be replaced. I plan on
using aluminum to replace it. I also am replacing the Awlgrip finish on the
mast for the second time-last in 1998. Please put me back on the 424 email
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Jim,
Not sure how much Pearson changed things between 1978 to 1983. I believe on
my 1978 ketch the traveler track and car are Nicro. The blocks are
Shaefer. I don’t have a pin or shackle on my traveler car so maybe things
did change. I did have the machine screw that attaches one block to the car
pullout on the way to the Azores in 2005. I drilled and taped a new hole
for the screw and it has held every since.
Most people I know who replaced the traveler went with Garhauer.That must have been a sweet ride on the Oyster.
On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 3:28 PM, James Roberts <>wrote:
I just returned from 19 months sailing from Trinidad to Australia on a
friends Oyster 485 and six months sailing on my 424(Revery) in the
Caribbean. Can anyone tell me what make traveller was used on 1983 424’s? I
have a crack in the pin that holds the shackle to the piece that connects to
the traveller car. This was picked up on a recent survey. On the same survey
the steel mast step had a lot of corrosion and must be replaced. I plan on
using aluminum to replace it. I also am replacing the Awlgrip finish on the
mast for the second time-last in 1998. Please put me back on the 424 email
list. Jim Roberts, #219-cutter_______________________________________________
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John Stevenson
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Rich,
Do you have a Velvet Drive tranny?On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 9:20 PM, Rich Carter <> wrote:
Quote:I thought I was probably the only owner with a folding prop. Mine works
great. I removed the break many years ago. Once folded, there is no need
for a brake. I briefly put the engine in reverse and then neutral and shut
the engine down.Regards
RichQuote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Aaaah, another religion-based discussion. You could have added a question
on anchors to get more blood flowing. [?]I do not have a shaft brake, but I do have a Velvet Drive and a Maxprop.
When I shut down the engine and resume sailing the Maxprop does not
immediately fold. So the prop free-wheels. I have been told by the tech
reps for the Velvet Drive and Walter that there is not adverse effect from
this free-wheeling. However, it is noisy. With my previous transmission
(Paragon) I could shut down the engine in gear and the prop would feather
with no free wheeling. I have noticed that once the speed gets >6 kts my
Maxprop usually feathers and the free-wheeling stops. So if you don’t
believe the Velvet Drive & Walter experts or you can’t stand the noise, then
maybe the shaft brake is a good option. I plan to live with it for now.On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 7:04 PM, Jubilee <> wrote:
What are the general thoughts on the need of keeping the shaft brake on the
velvet drive transmission with a folding prop?_______________________________________________
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Bob, with your aversion to soiled TP, you probably should not visit
Portugal. In most of the public lavatories and everyone I encountered in
marinas, they provide a waste basket for the TP and have sign saying not to
flush the paper. In Spain it was less consistent, but then some of the
marina toilets are BYOTP – something I discovered a little too late. A Brit
with a roll of that crepe paper became my new best friend. At least there
you can use your beloved Scott paper.FWIW, I’ve had to deal with clogged heads or sewage lines 4 times in almost
40 years of sailboat ownership. In all cases the paper is what provided the
clog, although scaling in the hoses was the real culprit 2 of the times.
The first two times were with that so-called water soluble paper. Then I
switched to the Scott TP that Bob loves. That stuff may eventually dissolve
in water, but I think the timing is closer to the half-life of carbon than
immediately.On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 1:47 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Quote:That sounds like an import-export opportunity!On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 11:47 AM, Joseph Steiner <>
wrote:Quote:Yes, Rich, I have had good results with that, but I can’t find it in the
Islands.________________________________
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Adam,
I don’t know how you make kids do this, but the solution is to never flush
paper down the toilet. I stopped that practice years before I went to a
compost head. For passages I provide paper lunch bags for crew and myself
to deposit the paper for each use, then throw it overboard. Maybe you could
get the kids to do this so they can watch how long it takes for the bag to
sink in the wake. While at anchor or in a marina the papers go into a small
waste basket next to the head. That basket is emptied into the galley
garbage bag when it is taken to a dumpster.
If you don’t think that will work with your family and decide to go with an
electric head, I recommend a Lavac head with a maceration pump. If you pump
into a holding tank, those heads minimize the amount of water that is used
for the flush. I don’t think the electric version of the PH II will solve
the paper problem as I believe it is just a electric water pump and not a
macerator.On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 9:26 PM, Adam <> wrote:
We also have the PH-II, but have considered purchasing a new electric head
because of our “little people”. They sometimes put in too much toilet paper
and it gets clogged. Always fun to clean out with a boat load of people.
Let us know what you decide and how it works out.Adam
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Dan,
If you have a lot of other hoses in that passage under the ladder, try
spraying a little Pam or other spray cooking oil on the outside of the hose.On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 7:37 PM, Joseph Steiner <> wrote:
Quote:It’s a tight turn and the hose is stiff, but it will bend, especially if
you heat it where you want to have it bend. I did it by brute force.Joe,
________________________________
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Lee,
I think Pete Dubler has a WC Skipper head for sale. IMO that’s is the best
flushing marine toilet ever made. A friend had one on his Cabo Rice. It’s
nearly indestructible. Next to that, I agree the PH II is a good option.
Even better option is to do away with all that plumbing and go with a
composting head. I believe that is the reason Pete has the Skipper for
sale.On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 12:26 PM, Jack P Clarke <>wrote:
Lee I think that you can buy direct from Raritan.
Jack
Xanadu IVOn Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:54 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Hi Lee,
I agree with Jack. The Raritan PH II works and works and works.
Rebuilding
is easy, the kit is about $60, and I’m very happy with it.I’ve had the PH II on my last three boats including this one. I actually
replaced the Jabsco one on my Ranger with the Raritan but at that time,
they
were only $150 or so.Apparently, the price of pooping has become astronomical. They run much,
much more now. I suspect the theory is that you’re going to poo –there’s
nothing you can do about it. So we (Raritan) can charge what we want!
Muahhahahahahaha!Still, it’s a good head and it can be electrified.
Bob
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:29 AM, Jack P Clarke <
wrote:
Hi Lee,
We have a Raritan PH II that works very well for us and we have beenliving
aboard for four years with no problems (knock on wood). It came with
the
boat and I put a kit in it right away.
Jack
Xanadu IVOn Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:12 AM, Lee Yonkers <>
wrote:
I need a new head. The cheap Jabsco that was on the boat just isn’t
acceptable. Any recommendations?Lee
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
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Adam,
I also thru-bolted the cradle on the center line beneath the boom.
This picture shows the location:
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/Images/New%20Hatches%202.JPG
This cradle is for a Switlik 6-person raft. I really didn’t put that much
thought into it at the time, but for being out of the way when sailing it
has worked well enough. From the point of view of deploying the raft I don’t
think there is a perfect position, because you cannot anticipate what the
deck is going to look like when you finally decide to deploy. However you
may want to take into account deploying the raft with the boom out of
control. Tor’s raft position might be better than on the center line.
One draw back to the center line position is that it makes it difficult to
fit a center line jack line when sailing off-shore. So I hook into the
windward jack line on the side decks and cross over the cabin trunk if I
need to work on the leeward side. Then that life raft is in the way once
more. Everything is a compromise. From that perspective, once again I
think Tor found the better location.
Hal Sutphen told me he put his raft on the sea hood for the forward
companionway – another possibility. I assume he then thru-bolted the sea
hood. Chuck Ruble might be able to confirm that.I am not as height-challenged as Bob or Tor, so the raft is not a visual
impediment for myself :).On Tue, May 4, 2010 at 8:18 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
That’s a good place for it, too. Mine’s forward center under the boom and
I
was hoping it would allow me to carry the inflatable dinghy fully inflated
in the space after (I moved the main sheet forward to the mast and back
from
there). But the dinghy (10.5′) is too long. No joy.The discussion is whether the raft can be worked around when it’s not
needed
yet released when it is without fouling in something when it is.But either way, you need to through-bolt it.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Parts may be difficult to obtain and expensive when you leave the states,
but the expertise you need is in the cruising community not just the
shore-based, never gone cruising radio experts. These experts can get you
started, but the real support is in the anchorages. Join the Waterway Club
(and other nets) and you will gain access to real world knowledge, and
people who will help for the reward of a six-pack or a dinner or just a
thank you.
I’m not disparaging the shore-based radio community, one of my best friends
has a business setting up HF radios on cruising boats. I lean on his
expertise frequently. It’s just that they can get you only so far.On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 6:11 PM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:Bob, Here is my suggestion. Get it ALL working before you leave the US. Not
only are parts difficult to obtain, but expertise is also a little thin out
there.
Alan— On Mon, 5/3/10, Robert Fine <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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