Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Patrick,
Good job on the installation. I especially like Dawns touch of putting down tile on the head sole. I was going to re-surface the Teak parquet flooring in my head, but I think I now have a better idea.
Paul,
Interesting observations. I stopped putting paper in the previous standard flushing head as I viewed it as the main source of plugged sewage hoses. I've continued the procedure with the Airhead. I've not heard of the need for carbon to aid the compost process. I'll have to look into that.I have encountered my first problem with the head in over a year – Gnats. Somehow they got into the compost bin. When that happens you have an infestation. I suspect I got Gnats on board after returning from the Bahamas. While anchored out, I did not follow my normal schedule of disinfecting the garbage bin every few weeks. That wasn't a problem when in the Bahamas because I never put wet garbage in the bin. When I returned to the states and started cruising up the coast that changed, but I didn't resume the disinfecting schedule. I think the Gnats may get into the compost bin when I empty the urine bottle. I'll start plugging the opening with a cotton ball when I remove the bottle and see if that stops the problem.
My first unpleasant experience since installing the composting head over a year ago.
Also there is a potential problem with the Airhead urine bottle that you should be aware of. Check the elbow fitting on the bottom of the sight tube that is screwed into the wall of the bottle. If it is screwed below the level of the surface of the wall of the bottle, it may become a source of a leak. It may be over-torqued and the difference in the coefficient of expansion between the fitting and the bottle material may cause the threads in the bottle wall to eventually crack and leak. This doesn't appear to happen often, but my bottle did develop a leak a few weeks ago for this reason. Fortunately I had a spare bottle on board. Geoff at Airhead is aware of the problem and is replacing my bottle at no charge. The bottles he ships now have the fitting backed off one complete revolution on the threads. This doesn't appear to be a problem with the majority of the bottles previously shipped, so it is probably not necessary to adjust the elbow fitting on your bottles if they are screwed in below the wall of the bottle, just something to be aware of.
On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 8:31 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Patrick.
Nice job on the composting head install. I originally installed mine on top of the original platform, but I am going to remove it and install it on the floor like yours.
One comment on the toilet paper usage. You had mentioned on the SSCA Board that you had tried throwing the paper in the composting bin a few times and then stopped. Based on my experience, the paper can go in the bin with no problems. It does take a week or so to break down, but it will disappear over time. If you are at all concerned, use single ply paper – it will disappear in no time!!
(Charmin Extra Strong would be a big problem on the boat – my neighbor recently plugged up his septic tank with it!!)
The composting head needs a source of carbon to be properly balanced. If you don't add the paper, you just need to add more coir or peat moss. As an experiment this spring, I was trying different carbon sources and tried using newspaper torn up into 1″ squares ( I figured it may be easier to get than coir or peat moss while out cruising). Even this mainly disappeared in a couple of weeks, so regular toilet paper should be no problem.
Paul
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The other use is to pull heat out of the engine compartment when motoring. I was talking to one of my neighbors (large live aboard power boat) and he leaves his blower on all the time at the dock. Says it keeps any bilge odors out of the cabin. My blower is a solar-powered vent, so I don't think I'm getting enough air movement to achieve either of those goals.
On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 10:51 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
In the thread about the blowers I thought it was a very good point that diesels don't really need that like a gasoline engine does. Then today I was crawling around my lazarette writing down info on my solar panels and thought hey this blower would be useful for when after you've charged or equalized a wet cell battery…. just a thought.
If you have gel cells, not a problem though.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I also think the Y-valve is probably workable, but much less user friendly than the two pump configuration. After you use the pump for salt water you need flush it, the hose, and faucet with fresh water, otherwise you'll get salty water for the first few pumps when you want fresh water. Also you don't want to leave salt water in the pump and hose because it can get pretty rancid after a few days. You have that problem with a dedicated salt water pump as well, but at least you don't need to worry about it getting into your coffee pot.
I want to put my salt water galley faucet on a foot pump as Pete as done. Hand pumping saltwater is not very convenient for washing dishes. A foot pump would work much better.On Fri, Jul 3, 2009 at 1:01 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I use two foot pumps and two spouts. One for salt and one for fresh. The salt is a whale tiptoe, which gets out of the way when not in use. On spout has white trim and the other black. The fresh pump is a whale gusher MKIII built-into the cabinet at the base of the sink. The y-valve seems like an inconvenient “solution”. I find I use both pumps when offshore (which has been way too long ago…)Pete
Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Alan,
I don't think it's possible for that arrangement to let seawater get into your freshwater tanks. The Y-valve is on the intake side of the pump. Depending on which way the valve is pointed, the pump can draw seawater, or freshwater, or nothing (valve closed). The valve can only be open to one water source at a time. It physically cannot cross-connect the two water sources. Whatever it draws will come out of the pump's outlet side, which can only go to wherever the outlet hose leads, i.e., the spigot at the sink. So, it's foolproof in that regard.
Of course, someone could brew themselves a nice coffeepot-full of salt water by mistake.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
*<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan,
I use a manual pump, the replacement for the original Pearson hand pump (PAR or Jabsco Topsider, I think). I use the same pump to drain the frig.On Fri, Jul 3, 2009 at 10:10 AM, Alan < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Looking for a solution for the Salt waterpump in the galley?
Electric, Manual, whats a person to do. So may choices……
What do you all have?
Alan—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The option I chose rather than put in a door (something way beyond my cabinet-making skills) was to construct baskets that fit the cross-sections of the frig. I have a few items that are loose in the frig (e.g., wine bottles), but almost everything is in one of two baskets, which lift out. It only takes me a few seconds to empty the contents of the frig, and most of the items are contained in the baskets so they don't go rolling around th cabin floor. It has worked pretty well for me for the last 6 years.
On Thu, Jul 2, 2009 at 4:15 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
My big beef with the fridge is that the coldplate/freezer part frosts over
and it's a huge PITA to chunk ice off to get into the freezer.I don;t know ANYTHING about refrigeration. Is that just normal for a high
humidity environment, or is that an indication that the seal on the lid is
not sealing well?
To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
“I so enjoy the openness the L-galley affords the salon that I wouldn't change it if I could.”
I agree, my friends refer to this space as the Dance Floor.
On Wed, Jul 1, 2009 at 10:23 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John,So I'm not alone in my dilemma. Sorry to hear it. As I see it, the icebox Pearson built, the one I have, is absolutely useless for liveaboard cruising. Now that I'm underway and living at anchor I'm going to have to deal with it whether I want to or not. If there isn't enough room outside the box walls for a reasonable amount of insulation, sprayed or otherwise, then I'll have to line it on the inside and accept having a smaller compartment, but at least one that functions.
As for the bigger box in the U-shaped galleys, hey, everything on a boat is a compromise, a trade-off. For myself, I so enjoy the openness the L-galley affords the salon that I wouldn't change it if I could.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor,
I have the same L-galley arrangement and the same problems with the box. Like you other priorities prevented me from re-doing the box. One of the limitations we have that the U-galleys don't have is the size of the box. I think the U-galley boxes, as built by Pearson, were large enough for a medium sized person could climb inside. I know you're shorter than I (6'1″), but I don't think you could squeeze into the boxes on our boats. The result is the U-galley owners could add insulation to the inside of the box and still have a very large box. We really don't have that option, and I don't think there is a lot of room between the outside of the box and the furniture to add more foam. Possibly there might be room outboard between the box and the hull, but I'm not sure how you can get any foam into that spot. You can get limited access to the area under the box through the locker at the head of the aft cabin berth. This is where the refrigerant lines are normally fed into the box.I also did not realize how poor the insulation was on this box until I took off cruising. Prior to taking off I considered having a new box built, but felt it was beyond my skill to do. The original refrigerator compressor (Grunert) seized up on the way to Bermuda in 2001. In 2002 I was getting Sarah ready for my living on board and didn't have the $ to both re-build the box and also put in a dual power SeaFrost system. A poor choice as it turned out. I would have been better off to spend the $ on a new box and go with a low $ system like Waeco at that time. I felt at the time I needed a freezer for live aboard. My choice is documented at http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeGalley.htm
The system has worked, but at the price of a lot of generator or engine run time. I'm still living with it. I am considering addind a 3rd compressor to the configuration – a 12V Danfoss derivative. That might allow me to maintain a decent frig temp using a wind or solar generator such that I only need to run the generator once a day or less rather than twice a day. That is a next year project.
On Wed, Jul 1, 2009 at 9:48 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Good info, Quent. Some of it surely applies to my L-shaped galley, too, but exactly which parts and where is anybody's guess. In any case, I am glad to learn there is a minimal expansion kind of spray foam available. At this point I expect I'll do pretty much what you've described. It can only help. I'd really like to tear out the entire icebox and then build a real one in there – one that'll hold its cold for days at a time! – but that ain't gonna' happen now if I am to head for the islands in the fall.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick,
In answer to your question on gelcoat work. I've not done much and what I did I was able to hide. Generally it involves a lot more finishing work than normal glass work, as the reason you're using gelcoat is because it will be visible. The biggest issue is matching the color of old, faded gelcoat next to the area you are repairing. My impression is the gelcoat guys in the boatyards are among the best paid, probably for a reason.John
On Wed, Jul 1, 2009 at 1:21 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I've not done this, my hull does not have teak in that area. I have been watching a guy on my dock replace the teak toe rails on his boat and it seems pretty straightforward. He was using wedges and a Fein Multimaster to pry and loosen the old teak from the rail. I think if you followed a similar strategy and cut it back as you went (so you the multimaster can still reach in) you could make it work. In terms of refinishing it seems like you'll just be doing a lot of sanding and possibly using some harsh chemical strippers if there's anything like 5200 under that teak.
Anyone have experience doing gel coat work? Is that more difficult than just the glass and epoxy work?
Seems very doable though.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Actually it was in the last century. The current century began Jan 1, 2001.
On Mon, Jun 29, 2009 at 10:02 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Almost in the last century…Don Barber wrote:
Quote:in jan of 2000
don
*<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Tor,
Yes, those are the panel positions I have been considering (other than the davits, which I don't have and would probably be the most effective location). My understanding is it doesn't take much shade (a shroud shadow) to dramatically reduce the output of the panels. I don't see how some level of shade can be avoided on the bimini and dodger panels for much of the day. Maybe at anchor the mizzen and main booms can be swung out of the way, but there is still all that rigging shadow. I think I'll go for the mizzen wind charger for now and let you guys experiment with the solar panels.On Sun, Jun 28, 2009 at 9:34 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John,
I have a few possibilities in mind:
– on a crossbar between the ends of the davits
– small ones on the dodger hardtop, port & starboard
– medium size on the outer portions of the bimini top
Then there is the common approach of installing railing in place of the life lines outside the cockpit, and hanging panels on them that wing out when convenient.
All require some laborious installation work & wiring. All would be in some shade some of the time.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Bob,
The real question is where are you going to install the panel? I haven't figured out a place that won't be in the shade most of the time or in the way of sailing all of the time. One of drawbacks of the ketch rig.John
On Sun, Jun 28, 2009 at 4:37 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi Tor,After I had written, I had a thought and I'll tell you about it before it dies of loneliness.
I know a source for little plastic hole covers – you see them on furniture and electronics and so forth. You can get them in 1/4″ up to 1+ inches. So here's the thought: Drill holes in a neat array throughout the box of the appropriate size. Squirt Great Stuff in to holes. When the Great Stuff sets up, cleanup around the hole and put the plug in with the aid of a hammer and block of wood. Not perfect, but better.
The solar panel is:
Dimension (LWD): 56.1″x 25.7″ x 1.4″ (1425 mm x 652 mm x 36 mm)
Weight: 26.8 lbs (12.19 kg)Here's the link:
http://www.affordable-solar.com/kyocera.kc130TM.130watt.solar.panel.htmAll the information you want or need about it.
Bob
On Sun, Jun 28, 2009 at 8:51 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,
The solar panel (130 watt, $565 with shipping from affordable solar) and the approach of going in through the lockers with a can of 'great stuff' foam are both useful tips, things to investigate further. Thanks. I really don't want to tear apart that entire fridge compartment right now to “do it right.”
What are the dimensions of that solar panel you bought?
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Here is the drawing of the dimension of the original sheaves (also can be found on the web page link provided in last email.
On Sat, Jun 27, 2009 at 1:03 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Linus,
I replaced mine with Shaefer 62-018. These sheaves are a little wide for the mizzen sheave box. I had a friend put them on his lathe and narrow them to a hair under 1/2″. This was the closest fit I could find in 2003 to the existing sheaves. You could probably bet them custom fabricated. I used Rig-Rite for my main mast sheaves, but others have had difficulty working with them. There's outfit others have had success with. I can't remember the name that company other than it had “sheave” in the name.http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgrade2003Rigging.htm#Replace Halyard Sheaves
John
On Sat, Jun 27, 2009 at 10:03 AM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anyone replaced the sheaves on the mizzen halyard? I think that when I used the halyard to pull the fuel tank I may have overloaded it. Each time I raise the sail it makes a horrible squealing noise. I don't know what to tell the yard that I need, I guess they should know. I would like to make it a short trip to the cherry picker and it would be best if I had the part in hand when I get there.
Linus—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Linus,
I replaced mine with Shaefer 62-018. These sheaves are a little wide for the mizzen sheave box. I had a friend put them on his lathe and narrow them to a hair under 1/2″. This was the closest fit I could find in 2003 to the existing sheaves. You could probably bet them custom fabricated. I used Rig-Rite for my main mast sheaves, but others have had difficulty working with them. There's outfit others have had success with. I can't remember the name that company other than it had “sheave” in the name.http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgrade2003Rigging.htm#Replace Halyard Sheaves
John
On Sat, Jun 27, 2009 at 10:03 AM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Has anyone replaced the sheaves on the mizzen halyard? I think that when I used the halyard to pull the fuel tank I may have overloaded it. Each time I raise the sail it makes a horrible squealing noise. I don't know what to tell the yard that I need, I guess they should know. I would like to make it a short trip to the cherry picker and it would be best if I had the part in hand when I get there.
Linus—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I have a 20″ Maxprop, which did improve reverse and used to feather under sail. Now with the Velvet Drive it takes a long time before the prop shaft stops rotating under sail. PYI can give you the recommended pitch setting for your engine and displacement. Then it may need to be adjusted after a sea trial. There is one version of the MaxProp that can be adjusted in the water, otherwise it is a short haul.
John
On Fri, Jun 26, 2009 at 12:48 PM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
One and one half inches in diameter. Left hand rotation. I have no experience with Max-prop. We have a fixed prop 18″ diameter, 12″ pitch, three blade that seems to work well with the W-58.
Quent—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan,
I can't directly relate to the PITA installation factor, because my generator was installed by the PO. I can say the PITA de-installation factor kept me throwing money at the damn thing over this winter in the Bahamas. It is back in operation and should give me several more years of service, but the cost of those repairs exceeded that of the Honda 1000 (and maybe the 2000). So if this sucker fails again I will likely bite the bullet and have the fiberglass work done to remove it once and for all. Then I will go the portable route.That said, if you own the Kubota and it will fit into the lazarette without cutting out the opening, I'd give it a try. It's a lot more convenient, once installed, than running the portable and you don't need to keep great quantities of gasoline on deck. I don't know the KW rating of the Kubota, but my NL is 4.5 KW – more than I get from 30A shore power connections. So it will handle everything, possibly even the A/C – although I've never been even tempted to try that. It is nice, in the morning, to start the generator from inside the cabin and plug in my electric tea kettle while charging the batteries and running the frig. Of course I had few of those mornings this past winter.
John
On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 5:28 PM, Alan < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John and anyone else who has a generator mounted on the boat as opposed to a portable one:
If you had to do it over again, would you go for the portable or mounted generator.
I am trying to figure the PITA factor with continuing to work on mounting my 6 hp KUBOTA in the lazzerete.
I want to put in a decent size water maker and maybe generate some DC without having to run the red beast.
I want to put in the water maker to eliminate the “run to a water source” or hauling and lugging of same.
Thoughts, ideas, encouragement, discouragement?
alan— On Mon, 6/22/09, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum