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Don,
How does your system differ from the ATN Topclimber system. I have one of those and used it a couple of times, but I may have consumed more good food, and wine than you. I found that system very difficult, primarily to get enough tension on the old halyard I use to ascend. No matter how much tension I put on that rope I always sink back to the mast. I finally put mast steps on the main mast and use those steps with some one just taking up slack on the halyard attached to the ATN chair and no longer use the ascenders.On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 8:38 PM, Syringa wrote:
I am in my early sixtes and will passed my prime due to my love of good food and wine and my wife does not have the strength to haul my fat ass up the mast. So for the last year I have been using Petzl Ascenders to go up my mast. I hook one to my bosen chair and one to a set of foot straps. I haul up a (old but good) halyard to the top of the mast and up I go. This saves any wear and tear on my working halyards. Once I am done with my job I have my wife lower me back to the deck. I guess I'm still worth more alive to her at the moment. Anyway they are rock solid any easy to use even if you're not in the best of shape.
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Depends on what kind you have. Normally you just have to close the seacock, unscrew the cap the strainer, remove the strainer basket and clean it out with a dock hose.
On Thu, Jul 23, 2009 at 7:41 PM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Not yet. Is it a simple cleaning job?<.. snip>
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Bill,
Have you checked your raw water strainer?On Thu, Jul 23, 2009 at 7:06 PM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:A curious condition has arisen. Went to the boat after 7 weeks oh non-use (work). Started the engine and only a trickle of water poured from the exhaust. Changed the water pump impeller, primed the system and still, only a trickle. Primed everything again, same issue. Could it be growth on the hull clogging the water intake? Where is the intake located? Maybe I could dive in and clear it. The hull has not been scrubbed for 3 months and we get a bit of algae growth in my Marina. All suggestions welcome.
Bill
SV Running Tab, P424 #86
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Patrick,
That is certainly a different way of doing it. From your description it sounds like the set up uses the boats bonding system as the ground for the transmitter. Other people use the lifelines. Bill Trayfors over on the SSCA forum recommends radials, but has installed rigs on other boats many different ways, all successful. So there are other ways of doing it than the copper foil. I guess it must work.There are a couple of issues I would have with the rig your described, but I am far from an expert.
- My line isolator is on the coax between the radio output and the tuner, as close to the radio as possible. I don't know what you have on the antenna lead from the tuner to the chainplate, but it is not a type of line isolator with which I'm familiar.
- On my Ketch rig the backstays are very close to the mizzen lowers and will make contact under sail. Since the entire mizzen rig seems to be part of the signal ground it would be possible for the transmit output to get into the ground system. I don't know that would do, but I assume nothing good.
- Using the entire main mast rig as part of the antenna means everything will be hot when transmitting, especially when in Pactor mode. I don't think you will get more than a mild burn if you touch the rig during a transmission, but it is something to be aware of.
- Since there are no isolators in the main mast rig, I assume the lower and forestay chainplates are also disconnected from the bonding system.
My rig is pretty conventional. I have an ICOM IC 802M. The radio is mounted under the navigation desk. The radio output is connected to a T-4 line isolator, also under the desk, then to a SG-230 tuner in the starboard cockpit locker. The antenna lead is connected to the starboard backstay just above an isolator, which is above the intersection of the backstay and the mizzen lower. There is another isolator at the head of the backstay and a third just below the delta plate on the port backstay leg. So the antenna is isolated to the starboard and upper backstay. The signal ground is two radials, one going aft from the tuner, near deck level, the other athwartship along the hull. I have a copper foil, but it is disconnected at this time. I get decent, but not great performance from this set up. I use it mainly for email and a few nets (e.g., Herb).
You have probably already done this, but I would take your setup to the SSCA forum. There are a number of radio professionals on that forum.
On Wed, Jul 22, 2009 at 12:18 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
One of the things I'm doing when I have time is writing up how things are setup on the boat.
We don't have the benefit on the ketch of a nice long backstay to put an antenna into, but it seems a little off (and slightly dangerous) to me to have one leg of an uninsulated forked backstay hooked us as the antenna. The whole backstay would be radiating and it would definitely be touchable (bad), but it is HF so its not that bad. Anyway, the PO swears it worked great, I've never heard a thing on it but haven't tried too hard yet.
Here's what the hole system looks like:Rig
Icom M710 SSB Radio modified for HAM frequencies is wired directly to the battery switch on it's own dedicated breaker.
The Face plate is mounted above the Navstation, the main unit is mounted in the aft hanging locker.
Antenna
The antenna wire and antenna tune control cable lead under the cockpit sole to an ICOM AT-130 antenna tuner located on the forward bulkhead in the port lazerette above the water heater. The antenna tuner is wired through a line isolator to the port side backstay chain plate.
The starboard half of the backstay is also disconnected from the bonding system.
There is no isolator in either leg or the main part of the backstay.
Ground
The antenna ground is hooked to the upper mizzen shroud chain plate which is part of the common ground plane on the boat.I'm curious those of you with SSB or HAM radios how have you setup your antennas?
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Cindy,
Also see my comments in another thread about the problems of having a key standing proud of the bridge deck. If your panel will be recessed with a cover, then you should have not have my problems, but I agree with Rich – best to have the start switch near the helm.On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 8:43 AM, wrote:
Quote:Cindy
Good to hear that your repower is coming along well. Once you've had a chance to sea-trial your installation, please send out a “lessons learned” message for our knowledge base.FWIW, at one time I relocated my key and kill switchs to the instrument panel. The only problem was that you can't reach the key in an emergency from the helm. There are rare occasions when this has proved important. I suggest that you reconsider your key placement.
Regards
Rich
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Pat,
I think most pump manufacturer recommend petroleum jelly (I think that is Vaseline) or just soap. The purpose of the lubricant is just to keep the impeller supple until you start the engine and the impeller sucks water through the system. The lubricant is not expected to remain in the impellar housing after the the initial run. I think these specifications assume you will start the engine within a short time of installing the impellar and that will wash the lubricant out of the pump.On Sun, Jul 19, 2009 at 9:10 PM, Tor <> wrote:
Quote:Pat,
I've often heard it said that petroleum-based grease will deteriorate rubber. When I was cleaning up my Groco seacocks a couple of years ago I asked a tech guy at Groco about that, since the core plug of the seacock is rubber and I wanted to lubricate it. He agreed about the danger of petroleum-based goop on rubber and recommended Dow Corning “111” (as in one-eleven) Valve Lubricant and Sealant. It took some searching to find the stuff, but I ultimately bought a BIG tube of it for under $10. Since then that is what I've put on all rubber parts I want to grease.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Peter,
Airhead is pretty much the same. They supply the hose, muffin fan and housing for the fan under the deck. You pick the deck vent.On Sat, Jul 18, 2009 at 12:21 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:It is a 3″ Vetus mushroom vent which I purchased at Fisheries Supply here in Seattle. The “flange” looking piece and the hose came with the Nature's Head, it is not an Airhead.-p
Sent from my phoneOn Jul 18, 2009, at 7:57 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Patrick,What is the source of the vent you are using? Did that come with the
Airhead or did you have to find it yourself?Pete
Patrick Walters wrote:
Quote:Good info on the paper, I think its a learning process really and I'm
sure we'll tweak it along the way.
Here's a link to more pictures than what I put into the post for any
who are interested:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/tags/systemscompostingtoilet/-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
<http://www.deepplaya.com/>
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Tor,
Neat design, and I agree falling overboard while at anchor should not result in a drowning or even a serious incident. Falling overboard at sea is of course another matter. I've thought about mounting a permanent ladder on my Monitor for the former situation. Something I could pull down from the water, then climb the monitor to the deck. Maybe I'll do that in the future, but for now I make it a practice to hook up my midship ladder whenever i drop the hook, regardless if I'm planning to launch the dinghy. The midship freeboard is such that I can reach up and pull down the ladder from treading water. Still I normally drop the ladder anyway. With an enlarged prostrate those trips to the transom in the middle of the night are becoming more frequent, and the chance of slipping overboard has increased as well.On Fri, Jul 17, 2009 at 8:19 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Regarding boarding ladders, surely both transom and side mounts have their place. The side-mounted ladder is
best for all the reasons you guys have been listing and I plan to add one to my inventory shortly. However,
first and foremost is the transom-mounted ladder. Here is why I think so.I believe it is essential for a crewperson (or the skipper) to be able to get back aboard the boat unassisted
once they have gone overboard – or have dived overboard for a swim after forgetting to put the ladder down
first. This is especially important for single-handers, but that's not just Bob Fine and me. There are times
when nearly all of you are alone (or essentially alone) on your boat, such as when your mate is ashore or just
sound asleep belowdecks. If you slip overboard, even at anchor, how are you going to regain the deck? (For
this scary scenario let's say the dinghy isn't floating conveniently astern, so you can't climb into it.)In my opinion there needs to be a way for a MOB to get back onto the boat alone, and I gave this considerable
thought during the couple of years I was refitting my 424. Ultimately, I came up with a folding ladder of my
own design, made by altering the original (factory?) swim ladder that came with the boat. It is transom
mounted, newly offset to one side (to accommodate my new windvane), double-hinged and held up by a lanyard
with a slip knot, the “pull” end dangling just above water level at all times. I had 2 additional
handrail/steps fabricated, which I mounted above the ladder. The end result is that a swimmer can pull the
cord (which is hanging on the other side of the windvane so the ladder won't come down on his head) and
PRESTO! There's a self-deployed swim ladder with rungs comfortably deep in the water and, because I made it
this way, angled out away from the sloped transom a little for easier climbing.Two photos attached. If anyone's interested I'll take one or two photos of the ladder deployed once the wind
settles down a bit in this harbor.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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John Stevenson
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Rich,
Thanks for reposting your instrument panel solution. It reminded me to start work on fixing the problems you avoided.I had the panel put on the bridgedeck in the same place as the Westerbecke panel. I have the C-Type panel with the Oil Pressure and Water Temp guages.
The first problem I encountered was having a key standing proud of the bridge deck when under power. It's in a perfect place to be stepped on. Fortunately I have not stepped on it with enough force to break either the key or the switch, but I have brushed against it and unknowingly turned off the panel.
Then the flimsy meter mounts on the panel. Just small fender washers over small ridges in the meter bodies. We did manage to kick the Oil Pressure meter back out of the panel one night.
A few months ago my tach started going bonkers. The needle would swing all the way to the far peg and the hour meter appears to be running backwards. Happens at different times, but if I run the engine long enough it always happens. The only way to clear the problem is to shut down the engine and turn off the panel, then restart the engine. Just turning off the panel will not clear the problem.
I would think this is a loose wire or a problem in the Stator sender from the alternator. I can find no wiring problems, but the wiring diagram Yanmar provides with the owner's manual are barely readable and pretty much useless.
My short term solution for the key is to file off the key way on the top of the key body. That appears to hold the key in the switch. My plan would be to start the engine, then remove the key. The long term solution is the replace the key switch with an on/off and momentary start switch, similar to what Rich did. I think I can put both switches in the place on the panel now occupied by the key switch. it means I'll also have to repace the stop switch as it is integrated into the key switch housing.
I will probably just recess the panel into the bridge deck and put an acrylic cover over it.
I'm waiting on guidance from Yanmar tech support on the tach issue.
The instrument panel is one of the boat projects that I must complete before resuming cruising.
On Fri, Jul 17, 2009 at 10:23 AM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Patrick
The whole story is here.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/
Call if you have questions.
Regards
Rich 603-493-3330Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick,
This is the single step I have:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/66461/377%20710/0/Quickstep/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=Quickstep&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=Quickstep&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5&subdeptNum=31&classNum=32On Thu, Jul 16, 2009 at 2:00 PM, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I use one of these (a 1 step) for amidships dinghy to boat – really works well…
http://www.doylemarine.com/?action=quickstepcat
I also use it to get up and down the transom after raising/lowering the dinghyWe have a folding aluminum and plastic step (very wide and easy on the feet) that we use to board amidships after swimming.. The last 2-3 steps are below the water … makes it very easy to climb back in… we've had some very hefty folks use it and it has performed well… I don't recall the mfg… it stores in a cockpit lazarette..
Rick
EclipseOn Thu, Jul 16, 2009 at 1:12 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:John you say on your site that you also have a fiberglass single step for use when boarding from a dinghy. Any pics of that?
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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Rich,
I guess this one of those issue on which we won't agree, except that a mid-ship ladder is not a good man overboard rescue device. Not what it is intended for – just for swimmer/dinghy/water taxis access. The stern ladder might be useful in a MOB situation, when anchored or moored, but not more so than the midship ladder when underway. On a MOB situation underway, neither a transom or midship ladder is initially of much use. If you use a a LifeSling type of recovery device the midship ladder might be of value if the MOB is able to work his/her self up a ladder with support from the sling. Otherwise both ladders are just for swimmers.FWIW, my midship ladder has two rungs below the waterline for swimmers.
On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 10:07 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Gosh, have we beat the generator thread to death yet?My boat (hull #47) came with a Hyde Stream-Stay roller furler. It was
attached to a bronze toggle about 12″ long (sorry, no exact measurement).
The Hyde system was a good unit for its day, but a piece of junk by today's
standards. I assume that Pearson offered the same system on all their boats
built at the time. I doubt many have survived. I replaced mine with a
Profurl many years ago and have had no problem clearing the roller drum with
the anchor. The rigger used a similar length toggle, but stainless.http://www.richardcarter.net/Deck.html
If stay is original, it may be of benefit to replace the lower fitting with
a staylock or norseman fitting. These are reputed to be more reliable than
swaged fittings but more expensive. If they cut a few inches off the lower
fitting, there should be enough wire left to attach a new fitting with a
toggle. I suggest contacting a reputable rigger to inspect what you have
and provide a quote. The nice thing about compression fittings is that they
can be reused if you need to replace the wire later.The problem with a midship boarding ladder is that there typically isn't
much left in the water for a swimmer to climb up on. If you use a transom
mount ladder, you can mount it lower and get more ladder in the water, but
then there's a reach from the top rung to the deck. You can position a
couple of steps on the transom to help, but the 424 transom is has a reverse
pitch. A midship ladder is normally stowed below if you can find room. In
an emergency, this is a disadvantage. A transom ladder usually stays
in-place. Its there in an emergency for use to retrieve a man overboard.
They are exposed to salt spray however. Many of these ladders use a cheap
stainless alloy which rusts. Even stainless rusts. The rust can be
polished off with a little effort, but a better alloy requires less work.We just had a man-overboard drill last weekend; not my boat. Some drunk
fell off the club launch. It was dark and the water was very cold. He was
having trouble even standing, so over the side he went, backwards and
disappeared below the black water. Someone else jumped in and pulled him
up. I gave my attention to the throwable life-ring, but without a ladder,
there was no way to drag him back in the boat. Luckilly, there was a
midship ladder stowed for this purpose. By the time it was retrived and
positioned, the swimmers were out of reach. It kind of gives you an
appreciation for having a good ladder available. To make a long story
short, we retrieved both persons. In retrospect it was comical, but at the
time it was scary.No free lunches here. IMHO, if you want something that works well to get
people out of the water, go with a transom ladder. If you rarely use the
ladder for swimmers and you're sure your crew won't tumble overboard
head-first at midnight, maybe the midship ladder is for you.Regards
RichQuote:
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Lee,
I've always considered a transom ladder as a poor solution. Boarding over the stern while anchored or on a mooring can be a challenge with a sea running or a lot of power boat wakes. IMO, the only reason to put the ladder on the transom is if you do a lot of rafting or you have a swim platform. I went with the Topsinquality ladder in 304 SS. It has served me well since 2005. Pics and description at
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm
You'll have to page way down to the Boarding Ladder section. I ordered two sets of genoa track mounts so I could easily set up the ladder on either side.On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 8:50 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I want to add a second ladder on Morning Glory. Climbing up and down the ladder attached to the stern is difficult even when we are on the dock. I think a ladder such as this one http://www.topsinquality.com/amidlad.htm would be easier to use when loading and unloading the boat while at anchor. Does anyone have any ideas or recommendations about amidships ladders and their relative safety and overall value?
Lee
Morning Glory—
Regards,
John Stevenson
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Adam,
I have an earlier version of the Harken (came with the boat) and it has the same problem. Sounds like you have an electric windlass and want to pull the anchor all the way into the roller. I have a manual windlass, so I'm used to pulling the anchor into the roller by hand. You can raise the drum, but that will involve cutting down the foil and possibly the luff of the sail. I suggest just live with it as I do. Pull the anchor up to the roller, then when you have time go forward and secure it in the roller.On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 3:27 PM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Installed a harken mark iv on phantom corsair, hull 6. Drum seems low and anchor thwacks it when pivoting into place on roller. This saddens me.
The boat came with no anchor pulpit, so roller is right off stem. Do others use an extension to raise the drum higher? (harken or otherwise) how high do our drums generally sit?
Ps: max hoist on ketch as installed is 42'8″.
-Adam Silverstein, iPhone
(its blowing 19 kn at block island)
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John Stevenson
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Rich,
I'm not sure what will happen to your battery charger without the ballast provided by the batteries, but it might not be good. Also some 12v electronics may not like the direct output of the charger.
My Xantrex charger has a switch setting to act as a 12V power supply rather than a charger. I've used that in the past when the batteries were temporarily removed from the boat, but I was still living on board.
I'd consult your battery charger manufacturer before trying what you describe.On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 9:08 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I just figured out how to disconnect my battery charger. (I do some of my best thinking in the shower.) My Heart inverter/charger is connected to the battery selector switch so I can charge either bank or both. If I select neither bank, the charger will feed my breaker panel, but neither battery will charge. This means that a Honda E2000 generator would make hot water. When making hot water, I'd have to disconnect the batteries via the selector switch. When the water heater finishes heating the tank, I could turn off the water heater breaker and turn the battery bank back on. The only issue is to remember to reconnect the battery before starting the engine, otherwise I'd blow the diodes in the alternator. Normally, the boat won't start the engine with the selector off, but if the generator were running and someone hit the starter button it would probably damage the alternator.I'm still going with a used E1000 generator. If I find room to conveniently mount the bigger E2000, I might upgrade later. Getting rid of a used E1000 should be pretty easy. Once folks at my Yacht club see how convenient it is, they'll all want one.
Rich
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Patrick,
If Shaefer comes back with a part and a price, before you order check it out as a special order from WM, Defender, etc. In the past the Shaefer price was way above the retailers' special order price.On Sun, Jul 12, 2009 at 4:15 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bill has offered to check his stash of parts, thanks a lot Bill I really appreciate that.I emailed Shaefer Marine today too with my picture as well. I think that's good know for the group as a whole even if Bill has one I can I have.
Thanks,
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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