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I don’t remember if you purchased yours new or from a previous owner.
It’s a good modification, but something like adding suspenders to your
belt. Deck stepped masts of any sort have one serious downfall – namely if
the rigging is compromised, the mast can jump the foot and become a
hazard. It’s a good excuse to maintain your rigging. In your case, the
mast could survive a windward upper shroud parting probably if the winds
weren’t too great and the driver was quick on the helm. Ours might not and
take out a lot more than just the mast. That’s why your tank is where it
is, because it can’t be anywhere else.In our boats, there is a rather heavy athwart ships beam that transfers
both the vertical and horizontal loads to the hull. Because the boat is
essentially one box beam (in mechanical terms) whether the load is applied
to the top or the bottom of the beam is of no difference (ignoring the
torque that would tend to pitch the beam or wrack it). The mast foot in
the cockpit does transfer the load quite nicely as a deck stepped main
would also do. From a purely observational view, the boat does quite
handily with mizzen and jib. It will sail with just the mizzen but not
terribly well because it is so far from the center of lateral resistance.I studied physics, too, but have confirmed the deck stepped mizzen
experimentally. 🙂Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 1:39 PM, Thatcher A. Stone – Confidential Attorney
Communication wrote:Quote:This is a special layout. And just from a pure sailing theory point of
view,
the pressure from the mizzen would need to be laterally displaced by the
keel to provide forward motion. Not sure the cockpit floor would convert
the
lateral wind pressure into forward moment. But then, I studied physics.
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This is really interesting, Thatcher, because I’ve been on over a dozen
424s and the layout has been identical for that stuff – all fuel tanks
under the cockpit sole, mizzens deck stepped. The keel stepped mizzen
seems like an extravagance in boat building. Did you have a special
layout? Like Rich Carter’s? I wonder if the previous owner had that done
for long range cruising and because replacing the tank is such a pain in
the patootie. It’s much easier to get it out than put it in. Where are
your batteries? Also: what hull number do you have? I wonder if that was
one of the last built.Just out of curiosity, how much does your fuel tank hold?
Anyone else have a starboard fuel tank? Keel stepped mizzen?
Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 1:04 PM, Thatcher A. Stone – Confidential Attorney
Communication wrote:Quote:On the starboard side.
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Really? Where was the fuel tank?
Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 12:30 PM, Thatcher A. Stone – Confidential Attorney
Communication wrote:Quote:Not on mine.
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Oh, ah. Big difference. Thanks.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On May 15, 2013 9:58 AM, wrote:Quote:Sorry,
I should have been clearer. I use the bladder tank for transporting
water, not fuel. I don’t think I’d want to deal with the mess of spilled
diesel. If I need fuel, I bring the boat to the fuel dock.Regards
Rich
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Hi Quent,
I use LRSE because of rep, price, and they’re nice people. Also, you can
make an appointment and watch your raft being done. And they vacupack for
three years.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On May 15, 2013 11:26 AM, “quent” wrote:Hey, Bob-
Good decision. Don’t mess with something that works. My suggestion about
that lift raft recert based on experience: Get a firm price up front, in
writing, and don’t let them use crappy Chinese batteries.
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Mizzen is deck stepped because fuel tank is right below. Main is keel
stepped through partners.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On May 15, 2013 11:00 AM, “Thatcher A. Stone – Confidential Attorney
Communication” wrote:Quote:It isn’t. It goes through the mizzen partners in the cockpit floor and is
secured to the hull below.
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I agree – I usually carry 6 – 5 gal cans on the toe rail. But a bladder
tank is a nice idea. How do you manage to carry 20 gallons of fuel at a
time? Or do you pump out of the dinghy? I find the space under the table
to be a great storage area.Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 9:35 AM, wrote:
Quote:Bob
I bought a 20 gal bladder tank and a 12v utility pump. Whenever I go
ashore, I fill the bladder tank. When I return to the boat, I pump the
contents into one of my tanks. This more than keeps up with consumption.
I got the pump at harbor freight.Unless I were making a very long distance trip, I would think 80 gal
provided by Pearson should be more than enough. If I wanted more fuel, the
dead space under the galley table would make an ideal place to add extra
fuel storage.Rich
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One of my good and very experienced friends suggested I make the forward
water tank a fuel tank. Easily done and adds 60 gallons. This was because
I installed a watermaker, although in my experience you can get water
everywhere on the coast of the US, except the Dry Tortugas. Still, I like
having so much water. I like my shower every day.Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 5:06 AM, quent wrote:
Hey Tor-
Maybe put the money into one of those flexible rubber fuel tanks instead
of the Bermudan economy.
Flew into Bermuda a couple times, and crewed back. Dialogue here confirms
wisdom of sailing other people’s boats. Plus it is much easier to find
North America than it is Bermuda.
Quent_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Quent,
Thanks. I was getting around to that. I’ll keep my Katydn one, even if
it’s smaller. It’s rebuilt, and it’s installed, and it will run off my
shaft generator (about 9 amps) which is a huge advantage. The membrane is
about the same.I may be kicking myself later, but for now the 1k which is an amazing
price, will go to life raft recert.Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 8:22 AM, quent wrote:
Re Watermaker, correction: SK informed me that DC unit not convertible to
AC.
Asking $800. A new membrane is $200, so this is an almost new watermaker
for about $1,000.
Quent_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Picture, Quent? Also, what are you asking for it?
Bob
On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 10:33 AM, quent wrote:
Watermaker is finally out of the boat, and looking for a new home. It is
an SK Watermaker model DC-150 modular model. Complete with extra filters
and preservative cruising kit, and flushing valve assembly. Very few hours
as we don’t go places water isn’t available. Needs a new membrane, which
is a generic part, about $180 which you would replace anyway since you
would plan to drink the water. Annapolis area.
Entertaining offers.
Quent
S/V Clairebuoyant #132_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I love Titusville! There’s ‘Our Place’, the diner. Good food, nice
people. You’ve probably been there, though.Bob
On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 3:58 PM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Thanks for that info Tor…my prop does not allow me to go full RPM which
I need to do to clean any carbon buildup. At 2500 the prop cavitates.
It’s surpising to me that the orinal prop is too big..even Alan’s
Westerbeke 58 cannot handle it and he went ultimately to a 12 pitch.
I have great bite in the cuts and inlets when I need it and I cruise at
1400-1600 RPM and do close to 6.5 kts. I certainly prefer this prop over my
feathering Prowell which did a terrible job backing out of a slip.
Alan’s experience in the Bahamas leaves me wondering what should I do to
have bite and still be able to decarbonize?btw..drag is no issue with me.
I’m in Titusville now. Good prop shop here if I need to adjust pitch, but
I’m wondering if I should consider a smaller, say 18″ prop??Joe,
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Hi Steve,
What Tor said. But to that I add think about where you think you’ll be
cruising. If you want to go worldwide find an engine that you can identify
and get parts for from many sources. By that I mean, for instance,
Betamarine, who uses Kubota engines that are readily identifiable so major
parts can be gotten from farm equipment suppliers at 20% of the marine
price.But that said, it’s kind of minor. Diesels seldom need injectors or pumps
or things. Keep the oil changed and the fuel clean and it will outlast
your ownership.The nice thing is that because you’re using a v-drive with a jackshaft is
that engine alignment is not as critical as it would be in typical
installations and you have some flexibility with mounting. I’ve often
thought of purchasing a Kubota engine (60hp ~6k) and going to Lenco for
coolers (they’re the ones who make most of the marinizer’s add-on coolers)
and having at it.But first I need the money…
Bob
On Thu, May 2, 2013 at 6:30 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Steve,I repowered with a Yanmar 4JH4E, 54 hp. Excellent, trouble-free engine,
plenty of power for a 424. But you might as well ask this group what the
best anchor is. You’re going to get lots of different answers, all of them
correct.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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I’ve always put the form in an envelope anyway. I don’t trust a folded
piece of paper in the mail sorting machines. Also, I don’t like my
signature so easily available to anyone with a pen knife and a penchant for
larceny.Bob
On Sat, Apr 20, 2013 at 12:48 PM, quent wrote:
What is especially annoying is that the USCG just changed from a form that
you could fold, stamp and mail with the scanable id and signature on the
outside. This could simply be scanned without much handling.
Now they require you to mail the form back in an envelope. Not only you
you have to supply the envelope, but the processer has to open it, unfold
the form and create a trash pile of envelopes.
Sounds like we are back to the wonderful world of “reinventing government.”
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thanks, Rod,
So parts are available. That’s good news.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Apr 19, 2013 10:22 PM, “Rodd Leeds” wrote:Quote:hey Bob-The W58, which I have , is a Mazda 4-154 block.
Rodd
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Hi Steven,
I’d be more interested in knowing who the OEM is for the Westerbeke 58. I
thought it was also a Datsun B20 truck engine, but hard to tell. Please,
tell us your secret!Bob
On Thu, Apr 18, 2013 at 11:32 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:I am in the process of rebuilding a W63C. I developed a hole in my #1
exhaust port in my cylinder head due to a poor exhaust line installation
during the re-powering in 1997 and sea water backed up in to the exhaust
manifold. Westerbeke did not have the cylinder head so I searched until I
found one from an OEM manufacturer in China. Identical match. In the
process they sent me 2 additional cylinder heads that almost are a perfect
match except for a slight shape difference in the exhaust port shape from
the pre-combustion chambers and a slight cut in the inter-most hole in the
injector holes. My engine rebuild shop told me that functionally these
heads will work on my engine. Check the part numbers on the W63C and the
W58. If it is the same, then I think I have a solution for your problem. I
am pretty sure it will work on a W54, but I do not know if it will fit a
W58. If you want I have pictures of the cylinder heads.Steve Weinberg
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