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Good deal. The hoses usually last a long time – decades. They will looked
cracked when they need replacing. Frayed. You should be good to go.Bob
On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 9:53 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Bob
Poked it and squeezed it still seems ok. I think it will do especially
with the limited use I give the boat. Hoping for this economy to turn
around! Then I will be chasing you guys up and down the east coast. I will
have to fix it then.Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Jun 12, 2013, at 8:54 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Are you thinking of pulling the shaft in any case? If so, do it. If
not,
poke it with something. If it cracks, you’re pulling the shaft…
Bob
On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 8:51 PM, sumocean
wrote:
Hey guys
I want to get an opinion on when replacement of the shaft log is needed.
I asked the boat yard when I finally hauled out this week and themechanic
said the hose is in good shape and will show signs before it fails.
Anyone
have experience with the hose giving out?
Linus
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Are you thinking of pulling the shaft in any case? If so, do it. If not,
poke it with something. If it cracks, you’re pulling the shaft…Bob
On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 8:51 PM, sumocean wrote:
Hey guys
I want to get an opinion on when replacement of the shaft log is needed.
I asked the boat yard when I finally hauled out this week and the mechanic
said the hose is in good shape and will show signs before it fails. Anyone
have experience with the hose giving out?Linus
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I’d have to look at how the system is set up – you want pressure to be
coming from the oil pump discharge. The system isn’t designed for
backwards flow so I don’t know what would happen. Rotating the engine with
the starter won’t give enough circulation, I think. Maybe. The key is to
get a good flow of oil through all the galleries and passageways. Maybe it
would work. Easier than using a motor and belt.I’d be interested to know how it all works out.
Bob
On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 3:24 PM, quent wrote:
The starter would probably push a decompressed engine for a while before
getting too hot. Alternatively, how about removing the oil pressure
sender and pumping oil under pressure in there?
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Steven, I hope none has occurred as well. Oddly, the water/oil mix will
continue to lubricate for a bit whereas kerosene and oil won’t. When the
engine gets running again, you’ll know right away – there will be a heavy,
RPM related knocking sounding like someone hitting the engine with a big
hammer. If that happens, you have a choice. Run the engine until it fails
or rebuild. If not, you dodged a bullet, my friend.I’ve been thinking about this some. I wonder if there’s a way to rotate
the engine without starting it – you’d want it to rotate freely and for
longer than the starter is good for. You’d have to take out the injectors
(and you’d need new copper gaskets for them). Then, perhaps, you could
arrange an electric motor to turn it with the crankshaft pulleys and a
belt. The purpose for this would be to put new oil in, rotate the engine
for 15 minutes or so, or even longer, then drain and change the oil again.
Because there’s no combustion, there’s no wear on the bearings because
they’re not loaded. It seems complicated but it would work I think,
because the issue is getting oil to circulate and remove the grey gunk.That and mystery oil?
Bob
On Sun, Jun 9, 2013 at 12:05 AM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:Bob,I also hope no previous damage occurred. What has occurred in the past
before I realized there was an issue is not within my control. I can only
deal with the future and try to avoid any further potential damage. I
appreciate your input.S
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30 seconds with poor lubrication will wipe the main bearings. I hope that
hasn’t happened. Or you will be pulling the engine.Bob
On Sat, Jun 8, 2013 at 7:45 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D. wrote:
Quote:It is antifreeze. I know the problem, but I can not pull engine so I need
to get the oil back to full oil. Exchanging the oil and filter multiple
times has not been successfully so an alternate method must be utilized and
the orientation of the engine and pan sump does not help. I plan on trying
the mystery oil and the method recommended by Bob. Apparently many folks
have used the mystery oil successfully. I have not run the engine more then
30 min under no load since the problem developed.Thanks for your input
Steve
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Whatever you do, DO NOT USE THE KEROSENE TRICK. Unless, of course you want
a total rebuild. Or a new engine. Kerosene will wipe the main bearings
faster than you can say, “Holy crap!”The best way is to drop the oil pan and clean it out. You can try heating
the engine compartment without running the engine to drive the water out
and then change the oil – drain oil first, put a wet vac on the oil intake
and leave the dip stick out and the drain tube uncapped. Put a 100 watt
light under the engine.The real problem is that that grey gunk is all over the engine. The oil’s
function in life is to collect it. But you don’t want to run the engine
with it in there so heat and ventilation is the only way to drive it out
short of disassembly.Bob
On Sat, Jun 8, 2013 at 2:16 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D. wrote:
Just got finished replacing cylinder head on a W63C and the first time
trough the torque wrench was not calibrated and the head gasket leaked
coolant into oil. Finally! Got it fixed, as indicated by no loss of coolant
pressure over time). and now I have a lot of water in oil. Because of the
reversed mount of the engine, getting the water out has been a bitch. I
researched the topic and two solutions we suggested. First with Mystery
Oil. 3/4 qt / 2 qt oil. The second solution was use of kerosene mixed with
oil. Run engine to temp for 15 to 20 min and drain and repeat. I have
tried just replacing oil. Much $$$ (18/ gal) and still milky color. Any
comments or other ideas with out pulling and disassembling engine. Anyone
with a solution to the problem.Steve
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I’ve heard that the W58 is a Mazda B2000 diesel engine. But that engine
was never imported here in the B2000, but probably as forklift or other
industrial engine. I wish there was a law that allowed people to know what
engine is the basis of the marine engine they have. But I seriously doubt
that would happen.Bob
On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 4:46 PM, wrote:
Quote:Bob,
I’m not sure about the entire engines. I heard that the W60 block was
from Leyland off a British taxi. Westerbeke wisely chose not to use a
Lucas starter. The electrical system in my old MG was Lucas and
notoriously unreliable. I have no idea where the W58 originated. The
optional high-capacity alternator that came with my W60 came from a
deuce-and-a-half truck.The nomenclature used by Westerbeke is deceiving. The W60 wasn’t 60hp,
more like maybe 50 on a good day going down-hill.Rich
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That should mean that the W58 and the W60 should be identifiable industrial
engines. The only thing you’d ever need would be the exhaust manifold and
I’ll bet there’s a way to jerry rig that.On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 8:29 AM, wrote:
Quote:Probably true. My old W60 starter was a common starter used in industrial
engines such as fork-lifts. Hansen, the local Westerbeke dealer, offered
to rebuild mine for over $600 many years ago. I got a brand new one from a
local starter repair shop for about $150 instead. That’s why I now own a
Yanmar.Regards
Rich
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You can pick the boat up by running the strap at the aft edge of the keel.
I’ve done it, but prefer the space between the prop and rudder.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On May 23, 2013 7:03 AM, “quent” wrote:Hello All-
Yard I’m thinking of using wants the aft strap under the keel instead of
aft of the prop. Afraid of damaging the shaft/strut assembly.
Seems a little shakey to me. Anyone have guidance?
Thanks,
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Sometimes it’s the simplest repair… Good for you!
Bob
On Mon, May 20, 2013 at 8:52 AM, John Sommer wrote:
Quote:The issue was with the handle…or more correctly the shaft going into the
Edison housing was binding. A little oil and some back and forth and all
is working.— On Mon, 5/6/13, quent wrote:
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That’s correct, Pete. As long as force isn’t being dissipated though hull
deformation, all force is transmitted to driving the hull one way or
another. It doesn’t matter where the attachment is – although it does
matter how it affects directional stability of the vessel. But you knew
that. The farther away from the center of lateral resistance, the more the
force tends to round the boat up. (Or, if it’s forward, force the boat off).On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 8:53 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:If the mizzen mast did not propel the boat, would it just sail off on its
own or perhaps just be left behind?On 5/15/2013 11:03 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:I don’t remember if you purchased yours new or from a previous owner.
It’s a good modification, but something like adding suspenders to your
belt. Deck stepped masts of any sort have one serious downfall – namely
if
the rigging is compromised, the mast can jump the foot and become a
hazard. It’s a good excuse to maintain your rigging. In your case, the
mast could survive a windward upper shroud parting probably if the winds
weren’t too great and the driver was quick on the helm. Ours might not
and
take out a lot more than just the mast. That’s why your tank is where it
is, because it can’t be anywhere else.In our boats, there is a rather heavy athwart ships beam that transfers
both the vertical and horizontal loads to the hull. Because the boat is
essentially one box beam (in mechanical terms) whether the load is applied
to the top or the bottom of the beam is of no difference (ignoring the
torque that would tend to pitch the beam or wrack it). The mast foot in
the cockpit does transfer the load quite nicely as a deck stepped main
would also do. From a purely observational view, the boat does quite
handily with mizzen and jib. It will sail with just the mizzen but not
terribly well because it is so far from the center of lateral resistance.I studied physics, too, but have confirmed the deck stepped mizzen
experimentally. 🙂Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 1:39 PM, Thatcher A. Stone – Confidential Attorney
Communication <thatcher@thatcher-stone-**legal.com>
wrote:This is a special layout. And just from a pure sailing theory point of
Quote:view,
the pressure from the mizzen would need to be laterally displaced by the
keel to provide forward motion. Not sure the cockpit floor would convert
the
lateral wind pressure into forward moment. But then, I studied physics.
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Done and done.
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 6:55 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Let me see what I can do – fair winds, my friend – just email me and I’ll
re-instate you.Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 5:06 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Tor,
I think you can unsubscribe from this link:
https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.orgIt’s at the bottom on each email on the list.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, May 15, 2013 at 5:02 PM, Silverheels
wrote:Silverheels cast off at 0700 hrs. today, bound for St. Maarten,
possibly by
way of Bermuda. The voyage lasted nearly 4 minutes. We’re now dockside
again
waiting for a new Shaft-Lok to replace the one that self-destructed aswe
left the dock this morning. (The main shaft bearing came apart with a
great
grinding and gnashing of teeth.) Hoping we’ll be Ready for Sea (again)
by
tomorrow afternoon, thanks to USPS overnight delivery. Feeling very
fortunate that the equipment failure occurred where and when it didrather
than 600 miles at sea.
I’ve used some of this extra shore leave to download and complete the
Bermuda clearance form, as advised by John, Frank and others. Thanks for
that heads-up.Would the powers that be please remove me from receiving this group’s
emails, beginning this Friday until I request reinstatement (when I’ll
download the correspondences I’ve missed)? Thanks!Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Let me see what I can do – fair winds, my friend – just email me and I’ll
re-instate you.Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 5:06 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Tor,
I think you can unsubscribe from this link:
https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.orgIt’s at the bottom on each email on the list.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, May 15, 2013 at 5:02 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Silverheels cast off at 0700 hrs. today, bound for St. Maarten, possibly
by
way of Bermuda. The voyage lasted nearly 4 minutes. We’re now dockside
again
waiting for a new Shaft-Lok to replace the one that self-destructed as we
left the dock this morning. (The main shaft bearing came apart with agreat
grinding and gnashing of teeth.) Hoping we’ll be Ready for Sea (again) by
tomorrow afternoon, thanks to USPS overnight delivery. Feeling very
fortunate that the equipment failure occurred where and when it didrather
than 600 miles at sea.
I’ve used some of this extra shore leave to download and complete the
Bermuda clearance form, as advised by John, Frank and others. Thanks for
that heads-up.Would the powers that be please remove me from receiving this group’s
emails, beginning this Friday until I request reinstatement (when I’ll
download the correspondences I’ve missed)? Thanks!Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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Absolutely – I have a ditch bag with fresh water, batteries, some other
stuff. Freeze dried food, nuts, hooks and line. Another knife. And my
ships papers and passport.Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 4:51 PM, quent wrote:
Actually, didn’t have a problem with the servicing except for the price
going up between the estimate and the bill. My problem was with the
equipment original to the raft. They gave it back to me without comment
when I picked up the raft. Bottom line, if you abandon ship, bring your
own flashlight!
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For force to be lost, the mast has to move in relation to the hull or the
hull has to deform to absorb it. Since it doesn’t, all force transmitted
through the mast is transmitted to the boat as a whole regardless of
mounting point.Anyway, it seems like a good arrangement, and if you have the same 80
gallons of fuel, even better. It gives you a large storage area under the
cockpit. And you have the potential, I guess, of putting another tank to
port if that’s what’s needed.Very interesting. Thanks for your time describing this, Thatcher!
Bob
On Wed, May 15, 2013 at 2:37 PM, Thatcher A. Stone – Confidential Attorney
Communication wrote:Quote:Well some of the force might be lost if not stepped into the keel. It is
after all the keel and not the hull that provides the displacement of
motion. In any event, I’m sorry to learn others are not similarly equipped.
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