Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Stainless rivets are the thing, then.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 6, 2012 6:32 PM, “Oldrodie” wrote:I was thinking rivets. I have tools for either – so equipment is not the
issue.Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
On Feb 6, 2012, at 6:20 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Given they’re Garhauer, I’d go with stainless rivets. My two cents.
Either
is fine, the threaded fasteners are easier to put in without specialized
equipment.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 6, 2012 6:16 PM, “Oldrodie” wrote:I am replacing the reefing line cheek blocks on the main boom.
The replacements are from garhauer and have a four hole pattern.
The orignal schafer blocks are 2 hole affixed with ss machine screws.
Aside from serviceability any reason to use threaded fastener overrivets?
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Given they’re Garhauer, I’d go with stainless rivets. My two cents. Either
is fine, the threaded fasteners are easier to put in without specialized
equipment.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 6, 2012 6:16 PM, “Oldrodie” wrote:I am replacing the reefing line cheek blocks on the main boom.
The replacements are from garhauer and have a four hole pattern.
The orignal schafer blocks are 2 hole affixed with ss machine screws.
Aside from serviceability any reason to use threaded fastener over rivets?Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941Sent from my iPad
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Joe, I have a Maxwell 1200 vertical forward of anchor locker. It stands off
the deck about 2″ but could stand another inch.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Feb 6, 2012 9:48 AM, “Joseph Steiner” wrote:Quote:Robert,
What kind of windlass arrangement do you have? I have a Lofrans Trigres
and the chain needs to drop 90 degrees coming off the windlass. So using
the upper locker is very tricky for me. I like the idea of feeding it
there, even if temporarily to avoid castleing in the lower locker and
running back and forth to the v-berth..so I will try to figure a way to
feed it from the windlass without losing a finger or two if/when the chain
slips off the windlass.Joe,
Half Moon________________________________
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Jack,
I have one panel on the davits (Mar-Tek) and one on the dodger. Both are
Kyocera 135 watt. I could add a third by rotating the one on the davits.Between the two the 12vdc needs of Pelican are met. With a third, I could
actually run the water heater with the inverter.When underway off shore, I can rig a shaft generator as well that supplies
all the ship’s needs when sailing over 5 kts.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 27, 2012 8:50 AM, “Jack P Clarke” wrote:Hi Everyone,
We are planning on heading out the St. Lawerence and then points south this
summer and I was wondering where everyone has been installing their solar
panels. I have a 1981 ketch with tublar davits by Ocean Marine and
was thinking of mounting panels there, but I wasn’t sure if it would be a
problem with acess from the stern.
What other areas have been used and how well does it work out?
What size panels are you using?
Do you have pictures?Thanks
Jack
Xanadu
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Diesel fuel doesn’t affect fiberglass or resin. Other than making the
fittings better, you should be good to go.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 23, 2012 4:50 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Probably not hard at all, although I’d first seek some knowledgeable
advice about storing diesel fuel in a fiberglass tank. Might be wiser to
cut that forward tank out and install a proper (aluminum?) tank in its
place. For sure our boats could use more fuel capacity. I haven’t
pursued it because I live aboard and I’m leery of introducing any kind
of diesel odor into the forward end of the boat. Also, as I said, I have
a trim issue, probably caused by too much ground tackle.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
You’re right – I was blindly doing the standard loop thing. But the real
world requires real solutions, not textbook ones.Fortunately, the sewing machine foot doesn’t go high enough to get my
fingers underneath while running…Bob
On Sun, Jan 15, 2012 at 10:18 AM, Silverheels wrote:
A vented loop would do to stop backflow. The only water coming back
into the bilge would be the hose volume.
Since my electric bilge discharge hose T’s into the scupper’s vertical
PVC pipe about 8″ below the deck, a vent in the hose loop would be
pointless. It can’t form a vacuum unless the scupper entry is
underwater, and even then the scupper drain water will run down towards
the thru-hull, not up through the bilge hose loop. At least, that’s my
theory. No, the point of the check valve is just to prevent the hose
volume water from returning to the bilge when the pump shuts off.a new Sailrite sewing machine
Ooo, slick. Wish I had one… and the knowledge to use it.
I’ve seen people remove the sink forward and put storage in its place.
Been there, done that:
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
See, that’s why you make the big bucks. What a grand idea! I can do the
same with my electric bilge pumps by ‘T’-ing into the deck drains. I was
going to take them out of the underwater discharge and make them discharge
about 4″ below the deck. That would remove 4 through-hulls which would
make me happier. I could make the low-down pump discharge to starboard,
the upper one to port, and move the stupid head overboard to one of the
easier to access ones. Right now, the head discharge is so hard to get to
I’ve been thinking of making an access through the head floor to get to
it. What was Pearson thinking, I wonder?On another subject entirely, when I get finished with the current
oversight/delivery job I’ll be buying a new Sailrite sewing machine. I’ve
already got canvas jobs! Woohoo!The only caveat I have with the check valve thing is that it’s never
recommended. In fact, most ‘experts’ think it provides a potential of
jamming up rendering the pump useless. Having said that, I’ve never seen
one jam closed – only open which would be no worse than the current set
up. A vented loop would do to stop backflow. The only water coming back
into the bilge would be the hose volume. I have check valves on my pumps
because they both go out the same through-hull so to prevent one pumping
backwards through the other I need them.I’ve seen people remove the sink forward and put storage in its place.
I’ve thought of this since I never use the sink (and when I mistakenly hit
the water faucet valves get the v-berth soaked before I figure out the
problem) and I can ALWAYS use more storage, it’s a good idea.My water maker brine and dirty water discharges go to the galley sink.
Speaking of that, I’ve been unhappy with my water tanks venting into the
bilge (happier, of course, than them venting into my clothes and
underwear), and would like to vent them into the sinks. Easy enough for
the forward and port tank. Oh, wait, I can vent the starboard one into the
head sink! Venting to the bilge does keep it clean and fresh smelling, but
keeping it dry would do the same, probably.Well, having wandered around the point so successfully, it’s time to get
myself together and make another cup of coffee.Fair and warm winds, rising tides my friend!
Bob
On Sun, Jan 15, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Hey Bob,My manual bilge pump discharges through the transom. It’s a long hose
run, but I suppose it’s the way to go. My electric bilge pump originally
discharged through an underwater seacock in the forward end of the
starboard cockpit locker, the same outlet the starboard cockpit drain
used. I re-routed the electric bilge pump to a multi-purpose thru-hull
just above the waterline under the head sink. However, that bilge
discharge hose first runs all the way up to the underside of the
starboard cap rail outboard of the head sink, makes a vertical U-turn,
and then quickly joins the scupper drain pipe up there for the straight
vertical drop to the thru-hull. (Does that make any sense?)As part of my early campaign to reduce thru-hulls in the boat, that same
thru-hull handles the midship scupper, electric bilge pump discharge,
watermaker brine discharge, shower pan sump and head sink.The way my electric bilge pump discharge hose runs now, I’d have to bury
the starboard rail to put its top U-turn below the waterline. Hasn’t
happened yet in 5 years. Still, I intend to add a check valve near the
base of that bilge hose next time I’m shopping back in the States,
mainly to keep the hose-full of water from running back into the bilge
when the pump shuts off.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
The portable pump on a board that can be operated entirely within the cabin
is more than sufficient. In my case, through what could only be termed
incredibly complicated piping, my internal pump can draw on the bilge
(default) or the holding tank. It is in parallel with a macerator that is
can draw on the bilge or holding tank as well. When single handing, I can
usually take some time away from the helm in autopilot to pump stuff. When
the helm is locked with me below cringing, not so much of a problem.On of the projects I MUST get to is to run my normal bilge pumps out the
transom. They currently go through one through-hull with a standard gate
valve (yuck) on the side of the hull. It’s a real kludge, and is, in any
case, wrong and unsafe on a port tack when the discharge could be under
water. Other than that, it’s fine…Bob
On Sun, Jan 15, 2012 at 8:52 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I don’t have a manual bilge pump installed belowdecks (yet), but I agree
it’s a good idea. I do have one mounted on a portable board, which I
could bring into the cabin if needed and discharge it into the galley
sink. Also have 2 manual pumps in the cockpit, one for the bilge and one
for the holding tank pumpout. The holding tank pump could be quickly
switched to a bilge intake hose via a Y-valve, giving me 2 manual bilge
pumps in the cockpit. Not much help when I’m single-handing since
they’re in opposite corners of the cockpit, but could be useful with
crew. I also have 3 strong buckets and a powerful desire to stay afloat.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
When I left for my first big adventure, I set Pelican up to be SOLAS
compatible. The fully operable bilge pump is a Whale Gusher installed in
the bottom of the hanging locker below the midships companionway. I figure
that if I’m below locked in, I’m going to be on the cabin sole pumping like
a madman reconsidering my atheism.Bob
On Sat, Jan 14, 2012 at 7:25 PM, S V Navasana wrote:
Yes. Still have the cockpit manual. Was adding the interior manual pump to
meet ISAF offshore regs.Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Jan 14, 2012, at 4:57 PM, “kalinowski”
wrote:Aloha Eric: did you keep the one in the cockpit along with the new
portable one? More back up/capacity is always better.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Pump is either a whale or edson. Rebuild kits are available still. When I
get a chance I’ll see if I can find it.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 9, 2012 8:17 PM, “Cada Grove” wrote:The rubber boot on my cockpit manual pump as given up the ghost. Does
anyone know where to get a new one or a good replacement for the pump. I
believe manufacture is out of business.Cada Grove
Jubilee No. 100
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Go to yachtlights.com they have some nice spreader lights.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 7, 2012 5:16 PM, “Rich Carter” wrote:I need to replace my spreader lights. Does anyone have a recommendation
for
an LED replacement?Rich
BlackSheep #47_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Dan,
Yes, that’s exactly what the petcock is for. You’ll notice it’s at what is
usually the higher side of the engine.There may be bubbles in the coolant going up the tube for the first few
hours of running but generally no longer than that. Make sure when the
engine is cool there is still coolant in the recovery tank.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Jan 5, 2012 9:37 PM, “kalinowski” wrote:I had to replace my old exhaust manifold (1980-pin holes) with a newer
one. The newer model has a petcock on top. Is the purpose of the petcock
to bleed air in the system?Im also seeing coolant gurgling up the hose to the reservoir. Should the
reservoir hose be filled with coolant with no air bubbles?Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
First, Dan, if you’re using the gauge as an indicator, get an IR
thermometer and check the temp around the thermostat. it could very well
be closer to 180. 190 is fine, though. However, diesels are not designed
to run cold – better to run at 190 than 160. Taking the thermostat out
isn’t a good idea.Bob
On Wed, Jan 4, 2012 at 7:12 PM, kalinowski wrote:
My W58 runs at around 190. The book says 180. Though I believe that 190
is acceptable, I was wondering about the effects of running without a
thermostat. I’ve done this in my old “teenage” cars, but was curious about
the necessity of a thermostat in a diesel engine. Any advice out there?Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Wow, Tor, I didn’t think anyone would have wanted those portlights – I just
threw them out…On Sat, Dec 10, 2011 at 4:14 PM, Silverheels wrote:
I’ve got a pair of original, long, aluminum, non-opening portlights
taking up room on my boat ever since I replaced them with opening
portholes. Anybody want them for the cost of shipping?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
That’s cheapskate.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Nov 22, 2011 6:23 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Quote:Yup, I am a cheap scape.On 11/22/2011 3:02 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I knew you’d know. 🙂Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us<http://www.**silverheels.us/
Original Message
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
