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I think the top left two batteries are one bank and the other four (top
right, bottom three) are the second bank. Which bank is which you’ll have
to check where the positives run to the switch.Bob
On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 9:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:OK… this is still confusing …. and I’m beginning to think that the PO
may have wrongly wired this thing still.
New picture (a photo this time)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6142543902/sizes/l/in/photostream/I believe the bottom left two batteries are supposed to be bank#2 and the
other 4 bank #1.
The AC Charger is wired to the Positive terminal of the top left battery
and
the bottom left battery which would make sense.The Blue Sea BAttery Link ACR battery combiner is connected to the positive
terminal of the top left battery and the postive temrinal of the bottom
right battery which seems wrong. It looks to me like its wired to the
positive terminal of the second set of batteries in bank #1…My plan is to add a real starting battery and hook the combiner to it and
then wire all of these into one big house bank, but I don’t understand what
I have yet so I can’t decide what to change..Thanks a lot,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 9:52 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Sorry its taken me so long to reply. I’m in Neah Bay and we didn’t have
internet for a few days.I looked it over and now what Skip said makes sense… Connecting the
grounds right there in the battery tray is what confused me.We had abused them though… was low on water. Filled. Charged. Equalized
and checked the water again. We’re good for now. Most likely we’llreplace
the batteries, upsize the House bank in San Francisco and put in a
dedicated
seperate starting battery.
We have been stowing and organizing things better as we’ve been moving
along… there is a TON of room in this boat. We have a few practically
empty lockers. Today I took the hanging rod our of the salon locker andwas
able to fit our cooler in there!! We only have a small number of hanging
things and they all fit in the v-berth so a huge gain there.Thanks as always for the help everyone!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 9:53 PM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Patrick,
Looks like you have two banks, both of course 12V. The batteries are
wired in pairs in series to get the 12V but one series pair isparalleled
together giving you have 4 batteries in one bank and 2 in the other.
If you look closely at the diagram all the grounds are wired together
which is correct. Then one positive goes to one pole on the battery
switch. Then two positives are wired together and then to the otherpole
on th battery switch.
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Bob Fine
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Yup, all 424s have the same arrangement. It’s actually a pretty good one
since it’s easier to align the v-drive than it is a whole engine and stuff.
The engine is just plopped down on beds and that’s it.On Fri, Sep 9, 2011 at 7:59 AM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Patrick,
Sounds like a good idea. I have been speaking to another 422 owner that
had his engine pulled to reinforce the engine bed. So far his reports on
the mechanic’s work sound promising and I am waiting to see how he does on
the reinstallation and alignment. If it comes out well will report the
results here.Meanwhile, do all the 424s have the separate v-drive connected to the
tranismission with a drive shaft?_______________________________________________
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The engine, trans, v-drive configuration is not that strange – many
powerboats (Tiara amongst them) have the same arrangement you have.
Truthfully, the separate v-drive is the more strange installation. Many
mechanics I’ve spoken to don’t even believe it exists until I show them!But your idea of using the extreme forward and aft mounts to align the shaft
and then tighten the center ones is the best. The engine/transmission
certainly won’t sag as you do this.Bob
On Fri, Sep 9, 2011 at 12:50 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:My experience is that no one knows anything about VDrives or that they’ve
heard of them and they think its odd we have them in our sailboats. I
wonder
if there any shops in Portsmouth RI who worked on Pearsons a lot who might
have some insight to share on the phone. Maybe we need to make a list of
yards we’ve all used…-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Thu, Sep 8, 2011 at 7:07 PM, skipmac wrote:
Sorry. I forgot to mention that my v-drive is directly bolted to the BW
Velvet drive. No drive shaft to the v-drive so the whole package;engine,
transmission and v-drive are all one, big unit to align to the prop shaft
flange together. Therein lies the complication.The other problem, I’m not sure there are any “pros” locally that have
experience in this rig and would probably trust myself to figure it out
better than depending on an inexperienced mechanic to mess it up._______________________________________________
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You probably have a chafed through wire in the harness that runs over the
top of engine. All Westerbekes have a breaker. It beats a fusible link. I’ve
seen this on smaller Westerbekes.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 6, 2011 6:13 AM, “quent” wrote:There is a wiring diagram in the W-58 manual. Breaker probably also
controls the fuel shut off on the fuel injection pump.
Suggest you check the integrity of the engine wiring.
Quent_______________________________________________
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For me it was more or less a non-event except for losing electricity for two
days.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Aug 30, 2011 8:18 AM, “pat noordsij” wrote:Haven’t seen much online since Irene went through… Are all you east
coast folks ok? I saw Linus had some cap / rub rail issues but hull
integrity looked good. Any stories out there?– pat
SV Doris E, P424 #178_______________________________________________
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Hi Skip,
There is a line at the bottom that seems to connect positives of the two
banks – it’s the line I remove from the drawing I sent. But it could be
there was no connection. It’s hard to say without knowledge from Pat. My
drawing makes it clear there’s two banks.Bob
On Mon, Aug 22, 2011 at 10:14 AM, skipmac wrote:
Hi Bob,
I may be missing something but Patrick’s original wiring diagram looks like
it is already in two separate banks, 4 batteries in one, 2 batteries in the
other.If you number the batteries in Patrick’s diagram 1-6 starting at the top
left corner and going clockwise, it looks to me that 1-2 are one bank wired
to the battery selector switch. 3-4 and 5-6 are wired as the second bank to
the other pole on the selector switch. I cannot see a link from the
positive terminal of bank 1-2 to a positive terminal on the other bank of
3-4 & 5-6 unless you mean the line across the poles inside the battery
switch which I don’t think was the intent of the drawing?Regards
Skip_______________________________________________
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It’s clear the intention is to have two banks, one of 4 batteries, one of
two. I’ve provided a picture that shows how they *should* be wired to have
that. The original diagram that Patrick sent has all the positives together
with one bank to one part of the switch and the other to the other. The
only common wire to all the banks should be the ground wire (negative).Please review drawing in second message in this thread and compare it to the
first.Regards,
Bob
On Mon, Aug 22, 2011 at 9:02 AM, wrote:
Quote:Looks like you have two pair connected to the lower switch position and one
pair connected to the upper switch position.Rich
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Congratulations on your move! The bigger question is are you sure your
diagram is correct? It looks like the intention is to have two banks, one
of 4 batteries and one of 2 batteries. I can’t tell where connections are on
the diagram where the wires cross or if there are no connections. To be a
two bank system, see the attached picture.Anyone else: Please check the math.
Bob
2011/8/20 Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
Attached is a picture of my battery wiring.
We have six Interstate U2200 Batteries.I originally thought I had two equally sized banks. But teh batteries are 6
V so that doesn’t make sense because you need pairs of batteries to make
12V
and three doesn’t work for that. But, if we do have two banks, then I don’t
get why all the batteries are connected together. None are isolated from
the
others.
If they really are just one bank and the battery selector switch isn’t
doing
anything then why do I get different V readings on the DC Panel?Utterly confused…. I need an electrical guru. 🙂
Not sure if I mentioned this but Dawn and I have left Seattle finally.
We’re
in Port Angeles now, moving to Neah Bay on the next agreeable weather and
then to San Francisco after that.Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya_______________________________________________
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Before I went totally nuts with the tach, I’d suspect the knot meter. They
are notoriously finicky, and agreement with the GPS is temporary at best.
Also, have you jumped overboard and actually looked at the hull or prop?
This year seems to be the year of barnacles and it only takes a few on the
prop to really screw up the efficiency. They have been growing
significantly in as little as two or three weeks, even with fresh paint.Bob
On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 6:44 AM, Adam Silverstein wrote:
Clean bottom, fixed 20″ prop. But have not verified tach. Engine really
sounds right for rpms, but given the fact that I have an unknown variable
where mostly simple mechanical configurations are involved, I’ll need to
check. (and thank you for responses).
Adam Silverstein
s/v Phantom Corsair_______________________________________________
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Hey, Tor!
I understand that. I suppose I get a little argumentative. My bad. If
sailing teaches us anything at all it’s that those of us that survive to
sail another day find our own ways of doing things. Lazy jacks or no,
whatever works.I had forgotten about yours mounted to the spreaders. I remember thinking
then (and still do) that it was the thing that made lazy jacks really
workable. If I weren’t lazy Bob, I’d probably try lazy jacks.Bob
On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 10:11 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Hey Bob,I didn’t mean you had to use lazy jacks. What works for you is right for
you. My point to Eric was that if he wants a mainsail containment
system, he could keep it inexpensive and simple by using lazy jacks.
Now, I suppose if someone climbed up on them and did gymnastics for a
while they could pull the spreaders down. Or the rig could be struck by
a meteor. I guess I’ve been lucky. That hasn’t happened to me in the 35
years I’ve been using them.And you’re absolutely right about the correct spreader angle. I’d say
maybe 25% of the boats I see get it right.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Now you know what to get *me* for Christmas…
On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 9:08 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
If you want to get started in welding your won stainless, here is a great
buy right now on the Eastwood 120/240V TIG welder. Nice set-up which
includes foot pedal. Today and tomorrow only $750 and free shipping.Pete
http://www.eastwood.com/**eastwood-s-ac-dc-tig-200-**welder.html
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But we’re worth it…
On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 7:56 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Yikes! $66.00
On 8/16/2011 3:53 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Bristol bronze, Roger. Will talk your ear off.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Aug 16, 2011 5:37 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:I seem to remember a thread in this forum about some company making
replacement number plaques (the one right below the companionway) for
our boats but I can’t seem to come up with the right search term to use
to find that string. Anyone remember this or have goods words for me to
use to search the forum?Thanks,
Pete
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You’re very welcome.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Aug 16, 2011 6:02 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Thanks Bob.
On 8/16/2011 3:53 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Bristol bronze, Roger. Will talk your ear off.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Aug 16, 2011 5:37 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:I seem to remember a thread in this forum about some company making
replacement number plaques (the one right below the companionway) for
our boats but I can’t seem to come up with the right search term to use
to find that string. Anyone remember this or have goods words for me to
use to search the forum?Thanks,
Pete
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Bristol bronze, Roger. Will talk your ear off.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Aug 16, 2011 5:37 PM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:I seem to remember a thread in this forum about some company making
replacement number plaques (the one right below the companionway) for
our boats but I can’t seem to come up with the right search term to use
to find that string. Anyone remember this or have goods words for me to
use to search the forum?Thanks,
Pete
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I think, Tor, that your solution of placing the hypotenuse out on the
spreader is the biggest innovation for these things. The only problem I can
see with that is that heavily or shock loading the lazy jacks can pull the
spreader down and out of its proper alignment. You can do that with flag
halyards as well. The spreaders should NOT be level, but should bisect the
angle between the lower part of the shroud and the upper part. Usually they
end up level because it ‘looks better’ but the stress of the shrouds is not
directly centered on the spreader but offset. Will this cause a rig
failure? Clearly not, but in a situation where the mast might pump it could
work the spreader down and release the shroud.Other than that, I’ve found the sails to be small enough to easily handled
even off wind. They might not end up prettily flaked but there’s always
time for that in port.Bob
2011/8/16 Silverheels
Quote:Eric,I’ve had lazy jacks on all my cruising sailboats since the ’70’s.
Wouldn’t sail without ’em. Cheap, simple to make, quick to retract and
necessary for keeping the mainsail under control when dousing it, which,
of course, stack-packs also do. On the downside, lazy jacks create some
extra windage when it’s blowing hard, and can snag on battens when
raising the mainsail on a broad reach, but as I said they’re quick to
retract to the mast if they’re in the way – as when setting a boom
awning.Contrary to some claims otherwise (Bob), lazy jacks do not prevent
dropping the main off the wind. I do it whenever it suits me. You just
need to tug at the sail’s leech and it’ll drop right down into the
loving arms of the lazy jack lines. In fact, that’s when you want lazy
jacks most, to contain the sail and keep it from flogging out over the
decks. They do not create wear on the sail and a set will last for years
if not decades.Attached is the plan I drew up for Silverheels’ lazy jacks. I don’t have
a good photo of those lines, but you can just make them out in the
attached snapshot.I’m not near the boat right now to check, but I think I used 3/8″ line.
The upper ends of the main (hypotenuse) lines pass through small padeyes
(blocks really aren’t necessary) under the spreaders, a foot outboard of
the mast sides to prevent slatting and give the sail a little more room,
and then run down to small cleats seized to the shrounds. Leave enough
extra line so you can lower the lazy jacks from those shroud cleats.
Also, do not make the aftermost vertical loop continuous under the boom
as are the others). Instead, make that last verticle loop two separate
halves, which tie together beneath the boom to form the loop. This way
you can untie them and slide the entire assembly forward to the mast
(without lowering it), i.e., quick to retract.Have fun,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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