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Oops, my bad. You’re one hundred and ten percent correct – I get Shannon
and Valiant mixed up. In my last, just substitute Shannon for Valiant and
Bob’s your uncle.Bob
On Sun, Sep 25, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Bob,There were some good builders in Bristol/Portsmouth and still are, but
Valiant was never among them. You’re thinking of another builder;
Shannon, Bristol, Freedom, Alden, J-Boats, several custom shops…
Valiant’s were built exclusively in Gordonville, Texas since 1983. Prior
to that the early V40’s were built in Bellingham, Washington.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Hi Tor,
I agree with you – Valiant was quite a yacht and still command high prices,
even for old ones. I visited their factory in Bristol, Rhode Island and was
really impressed. They were working, at the time, on a dual-rudder, shallow
draft, very fast cruising boat. I never saw one after the one in the
factory, but that doesn’t mean they don’t exist.Sadly, most of the manufacturers in RI have left or gone out of business.
It used to be you could walk a half hour from the town center and be amongst
some of the most advanced vessel production facilities anywhere.I happen to like Bristol for the Hereshoff Museum and the America’s Cup
Museum. Amazing, both.Anyway, I’m sure I can’t afford a Valiant…
Bob
On Sun, Sep 25, 2011 at 12:27 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Alas, Bob, that’s too true. One notable exception was Valiant Yachts
after 1983, when Rich Worstell took over the company and moved it to
Texas. Valiant used structural high-density foam as the core material
wherever they intended or expected deck hardware to be mounted. If they
had to mount something later where the core was (end-grain,
resin-saturated) balsa, they always over-drilled, epoxy-filled and
re-drilled for the fasteners. That’s where I first learned that trick.Valiant Yachts was a family-owned, small-production, semi-custom builder
that unfortunately shut down last year, another victim of the recession.
They weren’t perfect, but they made more honest effort to do things
properly than any production builder I’ve ever seen, and IMHO did a
better overall job of it than many if not most custom builders.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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It is unfortunate that that wasn’t done, however, until the mid ’80s
manufacturers figured the boats would last a bit longer than their wooden
predecessors. Imagine their dismay when they found that a fiberglass boat
will basically last forever, even with core rot.From what I’ve seen of modern boats in my repair service, either there is
marine plywood in the core wherever hardware goes through, or it’s just the
regular balsa/foam core, or it’s just fiberglass.The only boat I’ve seen that has epoxy around fittings is the Amel Super
Miramu where they somehow installed all the deck fittings when it was just
out of the mold and then filled the whole thing in with some kind of epoxy
foam. Can you say massively heavy? Also, rebedding the hatches was a
horrible, horrible job because they mounted them with screws and nuts, the
nuts being buried in this awful epoxy stuff. A two hour job now becomes an
8 hour job.But I digress.
I think most manufacturers take shortcuts to sort of insure the boat doesn’t
last forever. Otherwise, how else can they sell new boats?Bob
On Sun, Sep 25, 2011 at 9:32 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I’ve done that every time I’ve mounted or re-mounted anything on my boat
since I bought her; over-drilling, filling with epoxy and then drilling
for the fastener, whether screw or thru-bolt. Of course, we all wish
Pearson had done it this way when they built the boat, but I don’t know
if any builder did then. Maybe no-one had thought of it yet in the
1970’s.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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Hi Chuck,
Thanks for the info – I hope like hell that I don’t have to replace it
again. On the plus side, I must have fixed some niggly little leaks that
have plagued me for some time because I left the pump off for two days and
when I returned and turned it on it didn’t run. That’s a plus…I hear Wabasto makes pretty good stuff…
Bob
On Sat, Sep 24, 2011 at 9:32 PM, Chuck Ruble wrote:
Bob, the Indel Wabasto units are pretty nice. Priced the same as the
Raratins. Footprint is odd though and not so certain you could get it under
the bunk.Chuck
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Having made every mistake possible with Pelican (although I still find
things I can do to make an afternoon for everyone at the marina), I can
offer these few tips:1. It is MUCH easier to back to starboard than port. Not that you can’t do
it, but you’d better have a lot of room and a strong heart. So if I’m
putting the port side to a slip by backing in, I go past the slip as far as
I can and then back in. Sometimes it works pretty well. If you have the
choice, port side to when backing in. If not, be ready to be amusing. Use
warps.2. The wind can be your friend. Although the 424 is not as subject to
windmilling as a modern fin keel boat, it will eventually point downwind
left to its own devices. That can really help you getting into and out of a
slip. It can also hurt so take it into account, especially if there’s not a
lot of room. I’ve been known to go sideways down the fairway because that’s
what the wind dictates – going forward or astern only to keep from hitting
other boats. It’s funny to watch, nervous making to do, but almost always
garners applause. In my marina, there is only like 5′ more space between
fingers on different docks than the length of the 424. If you make a
mistake, or the wind takes you, the best you can do is control the boat away
from others.3. You can back down a fairway. There’s no law that says you have to go bow
first. True, the 424 backs randomly, but predominantly to starboard. If
the wind is coming from the direction you want to go and you have to back
into your slip, back into the wind. More control.This reminds me of a story in Rivera Beach Municipal Marina. I mean one
other than being boarded by the Coast Guard at the absolute worst possible
time in the worst possible place (in the narrow channel between Peanut
Island and the marina entrance).Anyway, the docks there are short concrete, fixed docks that require backing
into with a cross current that can be as fast as 3 knots. It took me like 5
tries to get into the slip by myself without taking out fifteen or twenty
boats. The point here is that you can do it. Just realize when it’s going
bad and stop and try it again. Trust me, unless you’re drugged to the gills
on legal or illegal substances, you’ll feel it in your gut that the world is
going sideways. Just stop. Get out of your predicament as smoothly as
possible and try again. If there are people on the dock waiting to help
you, they’ll stay for two reasons: 1; it’s fun to watch, and 2; they’ve been
there and know how difficult it is. Most will offer a beer if you dock
successfully (meaning you didn’t hole your or someone else’s boat. If you
do, probably they’ll offer scotch..)As has been offered before, have a plan ‘B’. Really important. Also, don’t
be afraid to lay against a piling if necessary. That’s what they’re there
for.I think that’s all the questionable wisdom I can impart. I’m sure I’ll
continue to learn more as the years pass.Wait, there’s one more thing: Keep your cool. There’s a tendency to use
the throttle and gear shift as a weapon when things go awry. Don’t.
Finesse is better and will result in your looking like a real pro.
Obviously if you’re going to crash, do what’s necessary, but try not to get
into that situation (see above). Invariably, when the 424 is presented with
emergency astern it will back in exactly the wrong direction. Experience
talking here.Ok, that’s it. Really.
Bob
On Sat, Sep 24, 2011 at 8:41 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Some of my best entertained afternoons have been in marinas or anchorages,
watching the show. I never fail to give one or two myself.
The thing is to make it look like that was your plan, and that you executed
it well……
But in any case, Planning and talking everything over with your crew well
in advance works well. ALWAYS have a plan B. Pay attention to the wind and
current and plan to use it to your advantage. Sometimes slow is your
friend….. other times fast is better than getting caught in a crosswind.
You have a powerful engine and big prop…..to get you out of trouble.
Try not to get yourself into a position that you will have trouble getting
out of later…… Think 2 steps ahead.
Remember that it’s a long boat and the people in the bow can’t hear you –
use good hand signals. It’s a heavy boat and can not be “Pulled” into the
dock……Happy Docking
Alan— On Fri, 9/23/11, jamesminge wrote:
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Ah , I understand their operation. Conductivity as opposed to capicitance.
Probably spelled wrong due to tacquila
Also spelled wrong.I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 7:23 PM, “Linus Martinez” wrote:Diesel is not as good a conductor. It uses probes that connect when
submerged.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 5:13 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hmmm, that sounds like a good idea, but how do you know your bilge is
full
of diesel?
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 5:12 PM, “Linus Martinez”wrote:
Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts andwon’t
turn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it waseither
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.
As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as
the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in therevery
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.
Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound)
works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to
use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’veheard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine,
at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.
West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s
specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon.I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right now
price
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that
one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to
know.
Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water
heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actuallypretty
easy.
Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed
switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing –
even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know howthat
goes…
Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the
heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hmmm, that sounds like a good idea, but how do you know your bilge is full
of diesel?I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 5:12 PM, “Linus Martinez” wrote:Bob
For what it’s worth I have a Water Witch switch. No moving parts and won’tturn on if diesel is in the bilge instead of water.
Linus
On a good day I can see the other side of the river!
On Sep 22, 2011, at 8:10 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it waseither
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.
As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as
the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound)
works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine,at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.
West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s
specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right nowprice
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that
one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to
know.
Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water
heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actuallypretty
easy.
Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed
switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the
heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Quent,
First, are you parting out the engine? Second, the anti-corrosion part of
antifreeze doesn’t last long- perhaps a year or two, although they are
better now than ever. I’ve checked the non-toxic stuff and it does have
anti-corrosion additives.The inside of my tank looks clean and if I think its not working, I can
always go back.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 22, 2011 9:01 AM, “quent” wrote:Hi Bob-
We have been tempting fate with a Seaward 18 gallon water heater for about10 years without a problem. Has a stainless outside which doesn’t rust like
the original. Got it at a scratch and dent event at West. When it goes, we
will get something smaller and hotter with a tempering valve.Saw the non toxic stuff at West. Was a little worried about using it
because of the aluminum parts on the W-58. The W-58 in our garage upon which
I did an autopsy showed a good bit of corrosion inside around the t-stat
housing and exhaust manifold. It made a goo that clogged the cooling system
and inspired the repower that got me the engine on Ebay.Quent
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Hi Quent,
I wish. Sadly, it’s a new Raritan. I was thinking of a Seaward but they
have an aluminum tank (about $200), but everything I read said I need a
galvanic isolator because of that. Another $300. The Raritan that was
there either was original or it was installed in 1987, meaning it was either
32 or 22 years old, a good run by any account.As it turns out, I finished a job that paid exactly the same amount as the
heater cost. How about that? I took the opportunity to make the whole
plumbing system in the heater locker neater. Not that I go in there very
much, but I’ve been known to diggle around there on occasion.Anyway, in case anyone doesn’t know this: Pipe dope (thread compound) works
marvelously on metal piping. It is close to useless on plastics. On
plastics, use teflon tape. Lesson learned when I turned on the water
pressure and realized I had to re-do all the plastic to plastic
connections.I’ve seen water heaters fail, but never that way. Very interesting.
Also: Since I had to drain the engine to do this job, I’ve decided to use
the non-toxic engine coolant, polypropylene glycol as opposed to the
ethylene glycol which is very toxic (but tastes good, or so I’ve heard).
Since it’s nearly impossible to collect the antifreeze from the engine, at
least now if I have to drain it it won’t hurt the environment.West has it for $20/gal, and it meets all the manufacturer’s specifications
as well as the extreme service spec. There’s a company online (I forget
which) that sells stuff that is supposed to work 7 1/2 years in marine
service or 750,000 miles in over-the-road service. It’s $40 per gallon. I
suspect I’ll be changing the antifreeze before 7 years, but right now price
is the issue. As an aside, polypropylene glycol is the same thing that one
drinks before a colonoscopy. I’m sure that something you all want to know.Other than the fact that over the last 20 years the cost of a water heater
has doubled or more (the last one I purchased was about $250 – same
Raritan), the job isn’t one of the most onerous ones. It’s actually pretty
easy.Next up, replacing my bilge pump switches with non-contact sealed switches
from Johnson Pumps. I’m really tired of the float switches failing – even
the ‘super’ ones which last 18 months rather than 12. The switches run
about $25 to $35. Same as the float switches. I’ll let you know how that
goes…Thanks everyone!
Bob
On Thu, Sep 22, 2011 at 7:52 AM, quent wrote:
Depending on the water heater, you might be able to replace just the heat
exchanger part.
Quent_______________________________________________
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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That company is Sen-dure (sendure.com) and they make the heat exchangers.
Fortunately, or not as a replacement water heater is very expensive, it was
the water heater. The engine is still fine.As far as your suggestion goes, thanks. I was already on top of that. The
only way you can increase the water level in the engine is by 1; sinking the
boat, and 2; leaking from the higher pressure system to the lower – water
pressure to engine pressure. That’s it.Thanks.
Bob
On Wed, Sep 21, 2011 at 3:45 PM, quent wrote:
There’s a company on Ebay that sells Westerbeke heat exchangers for less
that Westerbeke.
Sounds to me like something is forcing small amounts of water into your
cooling system antifreeze side and it is forcing coolant out the pressure
release valve in the coolant tank cap. Maybe the heat exchanger in your
water heater has a small leak. Water heaters have check valves and can
build a lot of pressure when heated by the engine.
Try taking off the coolant tank cap and see if the level rises when you
turn on the pressure water. If not, try then heating water tank on shore
power.
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
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Thanks, Rich. That’s my second choice.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 19, 2011 12:36 PM, wrote:I know that the W60 heat-exchanger can be rebuilt by the manufacturer,
Sendure. They might make the W58 exchanger also. Someone who’s had a rebuild
done might know. If you walk into a Westerbeke store and ask for a new one
hold onto your wallet.Quote:Rich
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If it’s only a few tubes, I’ll plug them. I know I can run fine with 50% of
them plugged….I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 19, 2011 12:36 PM, wrote:
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180 is totally good. Less is bad.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 17, 2011 3:39 PM, wrote:Diesels don’t like to run cold. Its bad for the rings and sleeves. The
engine should run to whatever temperature your thermostat is set for;
typically 195F.Quote:Rich
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Yes it is. I think its a VDO part. Look on the gauge to see the
manufacturer. But a good auto store should be able to match. If not,
replacing sensors and gauge which isn’t expensive.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Sep 17, 2011 1:18 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:Well, the engine is in and I think it’s wired up and all hoses
connected. Tomorrow we’ll get fuel and coolant into it and bleed the
lines.So in the process one of the terminals snapped off what I believe is
the temperature switch terminal (pn 30090 according to Torreson).
Please tell me this is a standard automotive part I can get at NAPA.Here’s a pic of the part.
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Hi Pat,
First, I thought of doing what you’re thinking of, namely removing the
dedicated start from the switch, but then I thought, say my house bank craps
out and I need to power the VHF or SSB long enough to get help. Or, just to
start the engine. I have a second bank of two group 31s. It’s enough to
start the engine, but normally I leave the switch on the house bank. Every
so often I’ll use the starter bank to start the engine just for ha-has.Consider that.
The exhaust elbow. You’ll love this: There is a plumbing fitting made of
black iron (like the pipe you’re showing) that is a reducing tee. The only
difference is that the raw water inlet is on the top rather than the side.
I’ve used it in other exhaust systems, and for $5.00 each, I’ll probably use
it in mine here when I need it.Good luck with all that work! Hope it ends soon!
Bob
On Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 1:24 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Bob, that was too obvious once you said to do that. duh! So now that this
mystery is settled my wiring is clear to me again… I think I’m getting
sick of being in the yard. Engine mounts I thought were ordered friday were
ordered today and were going to take 2 days to make and then 3 days to ship
to I bit the bullet and had everything shipped overnight. must get out of
Oregon!!!! 🙂 I think my new fuel tank was finished today though and they
got the rusted pipe from the engine to the exhaust elbow off. I already had
both a new pipe and a new exhaust elbow on-hand so that will be a nice
maintenance item to check off. The old one was basically held on by the
heat
wrap. http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6137969725/in/photostreamFor the sake of thinking out loud and hopefully of use to others I’ll
outline my plans to combine my two banks into one and then add a dedicated
1000CCA starting battery.To combine the banks into one bigger one, from the battery in the upper
left
:– remove the positive (+) feed to the battery switch
– remove the positive (+) feed from the AC Charger
– remove the positive (+) feed from the combiner
– Wire the positive (+) on the first battery (top left) to the + on the
bottom right batteryThat should give me a single 660 Amp Hour battery bank wired to position
one
on the battery switch instead of 440 in Bank #1 and 220 in Bank #2. This
will make Bank #2 on the switch irrelevant but OFF will still be used.
NOTE: My starter is current fed off a positive bus on the positive feed
from
the battery switch.Adding a dedicated starting battery:
– Remove the connection from the starter to the House positive (+) Bus
– Wire the starting battery positive (+) to the starter
– Wire the positive (+) feed from the combiner to the positive (+) on the
starting battery
– Wire the negative (-) on the starting battery to the common ground by
wiring starting battery negative (-) to the negative (-) on the middle
battery in the bottom row.Whew… that took a while to think through. I am definitely tired now!
Thanks a lot!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 6:46 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I think the top left two batteries are one bank and the other four (top
right, bottom three) are the second bank. Which bank is which you’llhave
to check where the positives run to the switch.
Bob
On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 9:36 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:OK… this is still confusing …. and I’m beginning to think that the
PO
may have wrongly wired this thing still.
New picture (a photo this time)http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/6142543902/sizes/l/in/photostream/
I believe the bottom left two batteries are supposed to be bank#2 and
the
other 4 bank #1.
The AC Charger is wired to the Positive terminal of the top leftbattery
and
the bottom left battery which would make sense.The Blue Sea BAttery Link ACR battery combiner is connected to the
positive
terminal of the top left battery and the postive temrinal of the bottom
right battery which seems wrong. It looks to me like its wired to the
positive terminal of the second set of batteries in bank #1…My plan is to add a real starting battery and hook the combiner to it
and
then wire all of these into one big house bank, but I don’t understand
what
I have yet so I can’t decide what to change..
Thanks a lot,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |@DeepPlaya
On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 9:52 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Sorry its taken me so long to reply. I’m in Neah Bay and we didn’t
have
internet for a few days.
I looked it over and now what Skip said makes sense… Connecting the
grounds right there in the battery tray is what confused me.We had abused them though… was low on water. Filled. Charged.
Equalized
and checked the water again. We’re good for now. Most likely we’ll
replace
the batteries, upsize the House bank in San Francisco and put in a
dedicated
seperate starting battery.
We have been stowing and organizing things better as we’ve been
moving
along… there is a TON of room in this boat. We have a few
practically
empty lockers. Today I took the hanging rod our of the salon locker
and
was
able to fit our cooler in there!! We only have a small number of
hanging
things and they all fit in the v-berth so a huge gain there.
Thanks as always for the help everyone!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |@DeepPlaya
On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 9:53 PM, skipmac
wrote:
Hi Patrick,
Looks like you have two banks, both of course 12V. The batteries
are
wired in pairs in series to get the 12V but one series pair is
paralleled
together giving you have 4 batteries in one bank and 2 in the other.
If you look closely at the diagram all the grounds are wired
together
which is correct. Then one positive goes to one pole on the
battery
switch. Then two positives are wired together and then to the
other
pole
on th battery switch.
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttp://server12.websitehostserver.net/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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