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Hi Joe,
Is it wired the same as Patrick’s? It sounds like it was repurposed to see
the inverter voltage rather than the shore power voltage.Bob
On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 8:54 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:My light goes on when the inverter is on and there is insufficient voltage
to attain 110. That is I often attain only 105. I think of the light as a
caution. For example, if I am trying to charge a battery and the voltage is
less
than 110, I get a poorly charged battery.I’ve yet to see it go on when I’m on good shore power.
I have to admit that I find it confusing since it comes on sometimes and
not
other times, inconsistantly and not predictably.Joe,
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I suspect that the original green light went bad and there was a replacement
with the orange one. My panel from 1978 or so has a green light that
flickers as well, and other 424 panels I’ve seen have the same light. The
light on Patrick’s panel looks to be of a different generation than the
panel – more modern.But without carbon dating, I can’t tell.
Bob
PS, I added pilot lights to all my 12v breakers so I could tell the circuits
are on. If you’re going to do this, use regular LEDs. I purchased mine
from http://www.plasmaled.com with the theory that if an LED is good, then a plasma
LED would be much better. Needless to say, you can see my power panel from
two miles away at night through the port light over the aft bunk. You can
read a paper or chart at night with the panel. Sometimes, more power is not
necessarily better. I think I’ll try adding a resistor to the lights to see
if I can dim them some.On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 8:44 AM, wrote:
Quote:Looks like someone added it to show that shore power is on. Since all the
boat interior lights are 12v, you might not otherwise realize that the power
was off until the batteries got low or the hot water got cold.Rich
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I have the Maxwell 1200 and am happy, but I’d rather have a manual mindless.
Bob
On Sep 15, 2010 10:57 AM, <> wrote:
Dan
You’re asking for religious opinions here. It depends on how much moneyyou have, how much you depend on your windlass, how you anchor, and how much
compromise you are willing to make. I put on a Lofrans Tigress 25 years ago
and have been very pleased with the installation. I’ve had to replace the
Up/Down solenoid switches and I’ve had to clean the motor brushes a few
times. It works for me. If I had lots of money and time, I’d go for a more
powerful vertical windlass and I’d totally redo the anchor locker. I use 200
feet of 3/8 HT chain and sleep like a baby when anchored. If the anchor
starts dragging, you can hear it in the boat. If set properly, I’ve never
had an anchor drag.Quote:Rich
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Both the Hudson and Connecticut Rivers as well as the Thames in New London
will clean your boat bottom if you go far enough up. For the Connecticut
River, it’s only about an hour up it. For the Hudson, it’s about 40 miles
(Bear Mountain, West Point – that area) before you’re in essentially fresh
water. The salt water being denser tends to stay deep. The Thames in New
London needs about 10 miles before you’re mostly in fresh water.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I suspect mine will be remove one bolt, drop in bilge to never be seen
again. Break five bolts. Purchase vast quantities of marine tex…On Sep 3, 2010 12:28 PM, “Silver Heels” wrote:
Bob,
Among my V-drive notes is the following from a first-rate marine
transmission guy in FL:“To inspect/clean cooling water passage, remove top plate (6 bolts).
Remove
top and bottom gaskets. Resurface the plate and mating surface of casing
with a file (?). When closing back up, use some sticky gasket spray or
Form-a-Gasket on the gaskets. Tighten up on the two center bolts first,and
Quote:then the four outer bolts.”Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Walters may not have thought much of it but it worked and that’s what’s
important – especially for such a long trip. 90w gear oil is used in rear
ends (hypoid gears) and transmissions (the other types of gears) just fine.
As I said, mine had 90w in it when I changed it and I may go back to a
heavier than 30w oil just for the noise factor.I’m also thinking of taking apart the water jacket this winter to see what’s
going on in there. But should I mess with it or just wait until it fails?
Hard to know.Bob
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I’m pretty sure that formula isn’t recommended for v-drives!
🙂
Bob
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Mine had 90 wt from PO but I replaced it with 30 wt. Drive is noiser but
runs a little bit cooler. I don’t know why but the splash lubrication
probably doesn’t work as well with 90 wt.Also, why carry two types of oil when you can carry one?
Bob
On Thu, Sep 2, 2010 at 2:51 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Just as I was reading this, Don Walters called me to let me know what the
situation of my V drive was. It can be rebuilt with some reliability. There
was one bearing seized. The input spline needed to be replaced (seal surface
worn) and the output flange surface needed to be cleaned up. Various rusted
bolts, gaskets and typical parts to be replaced including the crosses in the
u-joints. All this included a new blue paint job – for around 1500…. less
than 1/2 the cost of a new one.
While we were on the phone I asked him about the 90wt oil….. he said…..
SAE 30 OR APG 80 (made by Lubriplate). He did say don’t get APG 80 mixed up
with 90wt Gear Oil, they are way different. APG 80 has about the same
VISCOSITY as SAE 30.
These are HELICAL gears which have different surface areas and different
PRESSURE points. Hence the SAE 30. Not like HYPOID gears like in an
automobile which uses 90 WT gear oil.
So……..
Alan— On Thu, 9/2/10, Silver Heels wrote:
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That may be but why fuse it? Also, since all grounds go to the same bars
why bother?Bob
On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 9:50 AM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
Quote:I am thinking it might be tied to the case grounds of the ham radios. I
need to trace the few black wires coming into the terminal strip this is
joined to. More on this as I learn more.Pete
On 8/30/2010 6:44 AM, Paul Lefebvre wrote:
Quote:Okay, my guess would be that it had something to do with the SSB antenna
instalation???Paul
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2010 08:34:46 -0400
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That’s a good guess, but why a fuse on the ground? It may just have been to
confuse future owners…Bob
On Mon, Aug 30, 2010 at 8:17 AM, <> wrote:
Quote:My boat was originally built with the ignition key in the starboard
lazarette. Stupid place to put the key IMHO. The wire might be left over
from the ignition key wiring.Rich
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Hi Pete,
I don’t have one of those, and if I did, I’d remove it. So I expect a PO did
it for reasons unknown, perhaps feeling that the ground should be fused to
prevent back flow from the bonding? Who knows – people do some awfully
strange things.Bob
On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 8:52 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
While removing all the hardware on the coaming this weekend, laying upside
down in the starboard lazarette, atop the batteries, I discovered a wire I
can’t figure out. I wonder if any of you have an idea why this would exist.The wire runs from a ground block on the forward wall of the nav station
locker through a resetable fuse to a starboard chain plate. This wire is
black. The 8 gauge ground wires to all the deck hardware are green. Why
would there be a fuse in this ground wire and wire the trouble of running it
to the chain plate?Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks,
Pete
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Don,
We will miss you. You’be been a voice of reason, knowledge, and humor.
Stay in touch, my friend!
Bob
On Aug 27, 2010 6:59 PM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:
Don before you go, thank you so much for the excellent survey on my boat and
all your assistance here in the mailing list.Please do stay in touch!
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 3:43 PM, Syringa wrote:
I just sold Syringa to H…
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When I got Pelican, the gauge was unreadable – At a local marine store I got
the replacement gauge part (it’s the 50 cent piece sized puck on top) and
hey Presto! Just like new. The PO put a light in there that is on when the
instruments are on so there’s no need for a flashlight. It’s a real small
bulb on a stick wedged into the wiring harness that runs aft. Crude, but it
works.Bob
On Wed, Aug 25, 2010 at 7:50 AM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:I replaced the fuel gauge when I first bought my boat. Bought the
replacement gauge at a small West Marine, right off the shelf, It matched
perfectly the original, broken gauge I was replacing and cost, like, $15.
While I had the gauge out I suctioned the forward-end sump of the (full)
tank to check for accumulated water & sludge – there was none – and
replaced
the old, scratched lens in the viewing port with either Lexan or acrylic,
whichever one is supposed to be most scratch-resistant. Now, nearly 4 years
later, I can still read the fuel gauge without lying down, but I usually do
use a flashlight to see it easily.Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
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John,
You must stop somewhere near Stamford, CT on either side of the sound!
Bob
On Aug 23, 2010 3:41 PM, “John Sommer” wrote:
We have been cruising now for a month. We are working our way slowly
through New England towards the Chesapeake to sail in the Caribbean 1500 and
eventually the Caribbean. We have had several mechanical/boat issues that
have slowed our progress…nothing major, but nuisances. Here they are:1) An engine that was running a bit over 200 degrees. As you all know, with
overheating, you need to start on the raw water side; inflow, pump, heat
exchanger. Then you move on the fresh waters side; coolant, airlock,
thermostat, pump. Turns out there was gunk in the heat exchanger, but that
wasn’t the cause. I believe it was due to a stuck thermostat. I replaced
it with a NAPA #139 and the engine has been running an even 180 after some
extensive motoring.2) After spending so much time in the engine room, I noticed some leaking
diesel. It looked like it was coming off the top of one of the injectors.
We tightened the bolts, replaced the washers but is was still leaking. We
found the leak…it was a crack in the return line on top of the injectors.
The part has been ordered, but it will take a few days (Westerbeke will
only ship to their dealers who will then ship it to the yard I am currently
tied up at).3) While here at the boat yard, I had them replace the elbow where water is
injected into the exhaust. I remember a post a while back (I think was Rich)
who suggested that these should be replace periodically as they tend to
corrode and then leak on the alternator. I attempted this job this winter,
but was unable to remove it. It turns out that the pipe that the elbow
screws into, easily unscrews from the manifold…a much easier way to
replace the elbow that has been heat welded to the pipe.4) Early on while cruising Maine, my autopilot failed to engage. After
shipping the CPU, then the APU to the factory for them to diagnose the
issue, it turns out that was a small rubber coupler (a small piece that
engages the rotary drive) when the autopilot is engaged….probably a 1$
part. It most likely failed due to age as the rubber was quite brittle.We are currently tied up to a slip at the Burr Brothers Boat Yard in Marion
awaiting our part. We’ll probably move very quickly through Long Island
sound to spend some time Cruising the Chesapeake. We hope to be there in
early September to enjoy some free, peaceful anchorages. We have enjoyed
Mass, but are looking for some places that where we don’t have to spend
money (most of the nice harbors have very limited anchoring and charge 30-40
dollars a night for mooring). A nice thing about Mass are the free pump out
boats available in most harbors…it makes it very easy to comply with law
and ensures that the harbors are clean for swimming.John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME
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Hi,Pat,
It seems you’be hit the nail on the head. Casting is the big issue and from
my standpoint the easier it is to deal with the better.I can get you a picture but simply the floor of the installed chain locker
has two holes into the locker forward of the v-berth as far aft as possible
in the chain locker. They have covered chain pipes. To do it on your boat
would cost about 30.00 and take an hour or two.Bob
On Aug 20, 2010 12:48 AM, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters”
wrote:OK, I’ll try to reply to each of the individuals at once just to keep this
shorter.*Alan : Unabated*
Do you have any pictures or drawings of where the chain goes once it’sbelow
the windlass?
*Quent : **Clairebuoyant*
You are saying aft of the water tank, I assume you mean forward of the
watertank?*Phil : Aurora*
I looked at your setup, but your hawse pipe is separate from the windlass
base, mine is integral so I have different problems. I was curious about
your setup though. I had no idea how the chain made that leap from the
windlass to the hawsepipe.*Wavemaker*
Where are the pics? I don’t see them in the gallery:
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/
Yes, the lower locker is the are forward of the v-berth (i.e. the hole in
this pic: http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4903821270/)*Bob : Pelican*
I saw the pics on your site where you added the drain to windlass. Do you
have any pics of the hole setup and your two tier locker?*Tor : Silver Heels*
OK, you didn’t reply but you were mentioned. I really like your setup, and
originally I was going to copy you, but I decided I need to reign in the
scope on this project (no pun intended). 😉Sounds like no one has zero castling problems so maybe I’ll just stop
worrying so much about that.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 1:19 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:This is a blog post I just put up, if anyone has thoughts on windlass
location I’d really welcome the inputhttp://www.deepplaya.com/post/Making-a-windlass-plan-of-attack-e28093-Step-one-Pontificate.aspx
I’m especially interested in the setups on Syringa, Meridian and Parallax
or others who have windlass mounted outisde the confines of the anchor
locker, but have angled hawse pipes to redirect the chain through thelocker
into the chain locker below. Do you have problems with the chain running
cleanly?Thanks!
-p
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