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On Pelican, I have an upper locker about 9″ deep where I keep about 150′ of
chain and 150′ in the lower locker with the additional spare anchor rode.
If I need more than 150′ of chain I can pull it out. Then at my leisure I
wash and restow it through a hause pipe.Since the locker is open when I bring the chain up, I just reach in and pull
the castle over. Since I’m single-handing I don’t have to worry about
someone stepping on the buttons.Bob
On Thu, Aug 19, 2010 at 7:52 PM, Linus Martinez wrote:
Quote:PeaboyI have had issues with castling in the locker. I am coastal cruising so I
am running with 80 feet of chain and 300 feet of line. My plan is to glass
a shelf in the forward top of the locker and place the line up there leaving
the locker for the chain. I rarely get much into the line because I am
usually anchoring 8 to 12 feet of water. The shelf may not be the final
solution for long term cruising but I think that it will ad storage by
keeping the line that rarely gets used out of the way till it is needed. Any
comments on my plans will be appreciated. I also have a section with my
install on the 424 site. SumoceanLinus
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What about your windlass are you thinking?
On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 3:35 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I’ve not dug into it yet, I’ve been thinking about my windlass all day more
on that to come as I’d welcome your collective advice.-=p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 9:38 AM, Syringa wrote:
Patrick
Did you trace the wires? if so let me know and I will try to help.
Don Gardner
S/V Syringa #124/)+/)+~=:)
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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Hey, I have that plate and all it does is support my wiring harness.
On Aug 17, 2010 1:05 PM, “hanks424” <> wrote:
OK, it looks like at some point the mizzen will have to be unstepped to
bore a second hole. I still don’t have a clue why Pearson screwed a wooden
board to the support.
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Hi John,
I used 6-32 rod from Home Depot – just be careful. Don’t force anything.
But that’s for the raw water side. The freshwater side needs flushing
agents.Bob
On Tue, Aug 17, 2010 at 7:57 AM, John Sommer <> wrote:
Quote:John,Boat you saw was “Bead Game” out of the Bronx. They were in Belfast around
the same time. We met up with them at the SSCA Gam in Isleboro. I ran into
another 424 while cruising Maine, Juno. This used to be Veritas…It is now
owned by a Sweedish couple (he is a yacht designer is Sweeden). They cruise
New England every summer.Bob,
Thanks for the tip…any suggestion on the Rod? The passages are very
small….I don’t want use a piece of coat hanger as I am sure the passages
are pretty thin copper.John
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Any flush from an auto parts store.
Bob
On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 11:18 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
My problem is in the fresh water side. I had the heat exchanger cleaned,
put in a new water pump (needed), added a new thermostat and sender unit.
The engine still slowly heats up to 200+ after about 30 minutes. I finally
pulled a hose and checked and out oozed some sludge. The raw water side
works great. I am wondering if someone might have a recommendation on a
good fresh water system cleaner.Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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Here’s what I’ve found with the heat exchangers both on Pelican and other
boats I’m working on: The dissolved zincs end up plugging the tubes. A
small threaded rod makes a very nice cleaning tool that can do what removal
and boiling can or flushing or whatever quickly and efficiently. Just be
gentle.It only takes a few minutes.
Bob
On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 10:53 PM, John Sommer <> wrote:
Hello,
I too have noticed that my engine is running hotter as I head south…I
worked through the system and noticed that my heat exchanger had some sea
grass and a build up of scale. I’ll try the West Marine stuff and see how
that works.I recall a similar conversation some time back and someone recommended
boiling the heat exchanger in muric acid. If adding this West Marine stuff
this is an easier solution, then it beats having to remove the exchanger
(and drain all the coolant). After cleaning out the gunk…things seam to
be better. We have long motor sail to the Cape Cod canal tomorrow…that
will be the test. I will have to remove the scale at some point, as I am
heading towards warmer waters and I’ll need a more efficient heat exchanger.Thanks for the tips.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
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Bob Fine
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That would make the light a super-wham-o-dyne doodah.
BobOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 11:18 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Clearly a non-asymmetrical hyperbolic phase imbalance inducing a wizz bang
super eight inductive field current.On 8/16/2010 8:51 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
It might be a bad attitude detector. I was a bit grumpy at the time. 😉
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:12 PM, Pete Dubler
wrote:Could it be a sun spot detector?
On 8/16/2010 5:18 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
I added GFI outlets on board, but they were not even in the circuit when
the
light was on; all individual breakers were off.My working theory is the light should always be on and that it’s just
flakey.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 2:59 PM, norris larson<
wrote:
Quote:One possibility. Do both you and the shore power have GFIs? shore power
in
Nove Scotia and Cape Breton does. When I plugged in to one of their
docks, a
shore side circuit breaker blew. Maybe there is some other effect at
your
dock related to this issue.Norris Larson, Easy Reach, #216, on the market.
— On Fri, 8/13/10, Patrick wrote:
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Is this the fresh water side or raw?
On Aug 16, 2010 6:08 PM, “Jack P Clarke” <> wrote:
There is a product that is sold at West Marine as well as other places
called salt away, or something like that. It’s used to flush out outboard
engines. If you draw it through your strainer and let it sit over night,it
will help clean out a lot of salt deposits in the heat exchanger and
increase flow through the system.Jack
XanaduOn Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:25 PM, kalinowski <
wrote:I think I’ve finally chased down the reason the engine has been
excessively
hot in places. I’ve checked out the engine temp in several places with an
infrared gun and found uneven temps. I pulled one of the hoses and sludge
came out. I assume that this is keeping the water circ less thandesirable.
Can anyone recommend a good cleaner so that I can douche out the cooling
system? I’ve heard of some type of acid as well as a less volatileoptions,
but I haven’t chased down anything specific yet.
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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You can go to an automotive store and get the stuff they use – radiator
flush.Bob
On Mon, Aug 16, 2010 at 5:25 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
I think I’ve finally chased down the reason the engine has been excessively
hot in places. I’ve checked out the engine temp in several places with an
infrared gun and found uneven temps. I pulled one of the hoses and sludge
came out. I assume that this is keeping the water circ less than desirable.
Can anyone recommend a good cleaner so that I can douche out the cooling
system? I’ve heard of some type of acid as well as a less volatile options,
but I haven’t chased down anything specific yet.Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi John,
Maybe my jackshaft isn’t like yours – it looks as if I could shorten it
around 6″ before I have a problem. If the clampy-thing doesn’t do what I
think it does, then of course, I’m wrong. I’m not sure how much I could
extend it, either. I have seen this arrangement in other machinery (like
farming machinery) where the tube is quite hollow and that extension moves
pretty far in either direction.Bob
On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 12:05 PM, John Stevenson
<>wrote:Bob,
Unfortunately to shorten the jack shaft the tube must be shortened not the
insert. I don’t remember the reason we didn’t modify the tube, but I
believe that was not practical or wouldn’t have saved enough to make it the
preferred approach. If I could have avoided purchasing a new shaft I
certainly would have done so, and the yard would have made more money
selling me machine shop services rather than a new shaft (I was on the
Bertram delivery and didn’t have the option of shopping the work out
myself).
Alan,
Good luck with your installation. No two Pearson’s are exactly alike
(e.g.,
the W60 vrs the W58) so the old jack shaft may still work for you. For
your
sake I hope the advice I got from my installer was incorrect and you can
modify the shaft if it does not fit.On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 11:28 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
The jackshaft is variable length for just that reason – the two bolts on
the
clamp are for moving the solid portion into the hollow one. If youneeded
a
longer one, that could be a problem, but a machine shop could make a new
insert, I’m sure for a couple hundred.Bob
On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 10:43 AM, John Stevenson
<>wrote:Alan,
I just replaced my 20 with a 26, and Paul is correct there was nochange
in
the ratio. The yard did re-pitch my Maxprop because they believe it
was
pitched too high. The one gotcha was the jack shaft. The 26 requires
a
jack shaft that is 7/8″ shorter than that of the 20. For me that meant
a
new jack shaft. I think Rich did the v-drive at the same time he
re-powered
and positioned his new engine such that he could re-use the 20 jackshaft.
Walter thinks very highly of their jack shafts. I think mine coast
$1,700.
On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 10:29 AM, Paul Lefebvre
<>wrote:Hi Alan:
I am sure Rich will comment, but here is the link to his discussion
about
going from the RV-20 to the RV-26.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Vdrive.html
Based on his discussion about propeller selection, I got the
impression
you
can order any gear ratio you want from Walter.
Paul
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John Stevenson
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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The jackshaft is variable length for just that reason – the two bolts on the
clamp are for moving the solid portion into the hollow one. If you needed a
longer one, that could be a problem, but a machine shop could make a new
insert, I’m sure for a couple hundred.Bob
On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 10:43 AM, John Stevenson
<>wrote:Alan,
I just replaced my 20 with a 26, and Paul is correct there was no change in
the ratio. The yard did re-pitch my Maxprop because they believe it was
pitched too high. The one gotcha was the jack shaft. The 26 requires a
jack shaft that is 7/8″ shorter than that of the 20. For me that meant a
new jack shaft. I think Rich did the v-drive at the same time he
re-powered
and positioned his new engine such that he could re-use the 20 jack shaft.
Walter thinks very highly of their jack shafts. I think mine coast $1,700.On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 10:29 AM, Paul Lefebvre
<>wrote:Hi Alan:
I am sure Rich will comment, but here is the link to his discussion about
going from the RV-20 to the RV-26.http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Vdrive.html
Based on his discussion about propeller selection, I got the impression
you
can order any gear ratio you want from Walter.
Paul
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John Stevenson
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http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Generally speaking, you use a compression tester in the injector holes – I’m
not sure there’s an adapter for the pre-heater holes, but a diesel mechanic
would know better.Bob
On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 11:01 AM, Alan <> wrote:
and now for my 2nd question the day…..
Before I remove the engine (Strut Replacement), I want to do a compression
test. I need to purchase a tester worthy of the task. I believe I need to
remove the heaters to do the test. So I am thinking I will need an “adapter”
to Thread/ Insert into the head where the heaters were. Anyone know anything
about this? This is for the W58.
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Hi Pat,
Quent is right – it’s either an Edson part (very expensive) or a
Teleflex-Morse cable. Go for the latter.Bob
On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 3:58 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I went out for a test motor today and things went great except for the last
100′ when I broke the transmission cable as I was going into reverse. I
shutdown the engine and we drifted down the fairway, when we go near a
finger pier I stepped off and stopped the boat then we dinghy-tuged her
back
to out slip… Whew! No harm no foul.I’ve looked through the forum and my manuals and I can’t find anything
about
the transmission cable. Anyone have a part # handy? I have a W58. I’m not
100% clear on the transmission makemodel.I’m guessing I can pull the existing cable and find a match that way too.
Thanks,
-p
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You may even be able to take it to a starter/alternator repair shop and have
it rebuilt. It’s nothing fancy.Bob
On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 1:53 PM, James Roberts <>wrote:
I need a new starter for my w58 diesel. I would appreciate any ideas on
where to get one with less expense. The basic block is a Mazda industrial
engine and Mazda needs the model number for the starter. Since the boat is
in Trinidad and I am in Ohio I need the starter model number if anyone can
help. Thanks Jim 424 #219_______________________________________________
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Perhaps you’ll all meet Lady Kathleen who left this year and should be down
there by now.Bob
On Sun, Aug 1, 2010 at 1:45 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Hopefully we can rendezvous in the S. Pacific!
We are tentatively planning to join the Pacific Puddle Jump, but who knows
for sure…
http://www.pacificpuddlejump.com/-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sat, Jul 31, 2010 at 7:46 PM, JodyandStephen <
wrote:
Rough plans are Carribean by Dec2010/ Jan 2011. Following March/ April
[2012] pass thru Panama Canal, voyage across Pacific to Australia .
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